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Old 06-15-2015, 09:10 PM   #201
teufel_4
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Member#: 355745
Join Date: May 2013
Location: PA
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2013 Impreza Sport
Venitian Red

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noximus View Post
it should be in the same place
Still can't find it...
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Last edited by teufel_4; 06-15-2015 at 09:33 PM.
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Old 08-08-2015, 08:03 PM   #202
teufel_4
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2013 Impreza Sport
Venitian Red

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On the fb20 engine I think it might be towards the front. Ive yet to find it
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Old 11-10-2016, 06:07 PM   #203
fastzrex
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Oklahoma City
Vehicle:
2007 WRX Wagon
Blue

Default Boost Line

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wraith View Post
Are there any instructions or tips on using the vacuum line in the cabin of an existing OEM boost guage for an electronic aftermarket boost guage? I have an OEM boost guage and want to run a Greddy one... And I am thinking that there is no need to go through the firewall. Am I right?

Sorry if this was covered already, but I didn't see it through any of the links or by searching the forums.
Same information is needed by your new gage as your old. Should be the easiest way to go.
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Old 11-10-2016, 06:14 PM   #204
fastzrex
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Oklahoma City
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2007 WRX Wagon
Blue

Default DEFI Style Advance Gage Set on eBay

I am seeing several (all from Australia) concerning "Defi Style Advance ZD Kit 10 in 1" listing. At about $200 for everything you need, it seems to be a price which is abnormally good. Are these real DEFI products or could they be from China? The feedback for the vendors are very good with several of the kits sold.

fastzrex
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Old 11-13-2016, 12:03 AM   #205
Noximus
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: Canada eh?
Vehicle:
2009 STI Sport Tech
OBP Limited

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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastzrex View Post
I am seeing several (all from Australia) concerning "Defi Style Advance ZD Kit 10 in 1" listing. At about $200 for everything you need, it seems to be a price which is abnormally good. Are these real DEFI products or could they be from China? The feedback for the vendors are very good with several of the kits sold.

fastzrex

Ask the vendor? I would never trust eBay for car parts unless they're cosmetics.
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Old 04-25-2021, 04:22 PM   #206
torquemada
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Location: Germany
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2006 EDM WRX STI
WRB

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since Defi ended the support for the BF series I am in a constant fear

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Old 04-26-2021, 04:48 PM   #207
Prosport Gauges
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[quote] torquemada;46555396]since Defi ended the support for the BF series..[quote]

Interesting...
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Old 11-22-2021, 07:35 PM   #208
A Guy with a STi
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01 Fozz 2.0L

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anybody ever drill and tap into the coolant crossover pipe to install a water temp sensor for a gauge?
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Old 12-31-2021, 01:22 PM   #209
TCHarley
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Join Date: Dec 2020
Default Fixing STi Genome Gauge Stuck Needle

I recently got a set of STi Genome gauges to put in my 2004 STi. When installing them I found that the water temp gauge would not perform the "opening ceremony" where the needle sweeps twice across its full range. The LEDs were also intermittent and sometimes didn't work at all. I found that wiggling the cable made the LEDs work but I could never get the needle to move.

I checked various forums and found that some people had this same issue but it seemed like everyone assumed a gauge in this state was dead and gave up, but I was able to fix mine so I thought I would share how I did it for anyone else that comes across this issue. I would have made my own post but I haven't contributed to the forum enough to do so.

The first thing you need to do is open the gauge. Defi no longer supports these older gauges and I don't think they ever supported the STi Genome branded ones. On their site's FAQ page it says "We have no responsibility for STI Genome and STI gauges, which is an exclusive SUBARU gauge, nor do we know the contents of specification. But Subaru Automotive Accessories would be able to answer your enquiry better than we do." so if your gauge isn't working there is no reason to fear opening it. Unfortunately they aren't easy to open. You have to pry open the ring that holds the front cover on. You can follow this old video for that process.


It basically involves using a padded flat head screwdriver to bend the back side of the ring outward, just enough to get the cover to pop off. This is the worst part of this whole process.

https://i.imgur.com/ARuU5u8.jpeg

Once you have it open, remove the the two screws from the back of the gauge to remove the guts from the case. There is a PCB at the back that has the cable connectors on it which held to the rest of the assembly with two screws. With these removed the back PCB can be pulled off of the assembly.

https://i.imgur.com/YRetoVO.jpeg

The rear PCB is connected to the next PCB with a small 10 pin connector. I found this connector to be the problem in my case. The connection here was not good enough to get the signal from the control unit to the little motor that runs the needle. To fix this I took a small pick and tried bending the little pins inward on the female connector to make the connection tighter, but this didn't help. Next, I took my soldering iron and heated each of the 10 small surface mount pins on each connector to reflow the solder and repair any broken joints. I also added a tiny bit of solder as well in a few cases. The pitch on this connector is only 0.5mm so everything here is very small. It is easy to get solder bridges so be careful of that.

https://i.imgur.com/1gZa3nI.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/WFwVnXN.jpeg

This did the trick and my gauge works as intended again. Button everything back up, and re-crimp the aluminum ring back on and it should be good to go.

Do this at your own risk and try to avoid any static discharge from your hands while handling the delicate electronics. Also, be very careful with the front face/needle of the gauge. It is quite delicate and I don't think it would be very difficult to damage. It may have been a combination of bending the little pins inward for a tighter connection and re-flowing the solder on this connection that did the trick, so maybe try both.

I hope this helps someone
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