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Old 05-29-2019, 08:00 PM   #1976
fullah
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Just curious about the negative feedback people have on the tein basis. In my earlier posts in this thread I noticed they had bad reviews or got dismissed in here. Having owned teins before I found that surprising. Anyway I decided to take a chance on my previous experience and buy then anyway. I think they're the best bang for the buck or in this case 446 bucks. I got them through rally sport direct on a sale. With the money saved I opted to get replacement front mounts.

The kyb mounts we're around $34 a side but well worth not having to use spring compressors to pull the oem mounts. Also the oem mounts don't seem to be the best quality and some people experienced noise anyway. I have to say I was impressed by the tein ride especially since it's a very budget setup. Its an improvement over the stock base WRX suspension ten fold. A little firmer but not too stiff where to cringe at every bump. The bumps also seem quieter and less suspension rattle like the base suspension had. Keep in mind I am under 4,000 miles and the oe stuff was still noisy.

Are there better coils out there? Probably. But for a daily driver not looking to see the chiropractor weekly setup I would recommend. Will update in a few weeks if my opinion changes.
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Old 06-01-2019, 11:28 PM   #1977
bamx
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anyone have experience with silver's neomax coilovers? they appear to have a solid history and a strong price point but there are hardly any reviews on it
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Old 06-18-2019, 01:32 AM   #1978
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that is some great feedback @fullah and what i was looking for.
8 months after installing RCE Yellows, i am putting them up for sale and looking at a coilover setup. The stock shocks i feel isn't up to the task, and i dread every pothole i see last minute and brace for impact, and unless the roads are smooth, you do feel every bump/crack/pothole and they don't absorb very well. For a car that see's the track/auto X, it would be a good upgrade, but a no if it is 90% daily.
Save up a bit more and go with the Bilstein shock setup or for coilovers.

I used to enjoy driving the car for the fist month or so but it got old real quick and it was no longer comfortable.

Last edited by jcf_dori; 06-18-2019 at 01:43 AM.
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Old 06-18-2019, 08:45 AM   #1979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcf_dori View Post
that is some great feedback @fullah and what i was looking for.
8 months after installing RCE Yellows, i am putting them up for sale and looking at a coilover setup. The stock shocks i feel isn't up to the task, and i dread every pothole i see last minute and brace for impact, and unless the roads are smooth, you do feel every bump/crack/pothole and they don't absorb very well. For a car that see's the track/auto X, it would be a good upgrade, but a no if it is 90% daily.
Save up a bit more and go with the Bilstein shock setup or for coilovers.

I used to enjoy driving the car for the fist month or so but it got old real quick and it was no longer comfortable.
Sorry to hear that. Keep in mind there is a Subaru TSB for the OEM mounts being noisy from bearing failure/play that causes that very annoying rattle.

Myles
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Old 06-18-2019, 10:54 AM   #1980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcf_dori View Post
that is some great feedback @fullah and what i was looking for.
8 months after installing RCE Yellows, i am putting them up for sale and looking at a coilover setup. The stock shocks i feel isn't up to the task, and i dread every pothole i see last minute and brace for impact, and unless the roads are smooth, you do feel every bump/crack/pothole and they don't absorb very well. For a car that see's the track/auto X, it would be a good upgrade, but a no if it is 90% daily.
Save up a bit more and go with the Bilstein shock setup or for coilovers.

I used to enjoy driving the car for the fist month or so but it got old real quick and it was no longer comfortable.
After having the tein basis on the car for a few weeks I still stand by my previous post. They are worth the money if you want a budget coil set up. The only thing I will point out is to leave them on the zero preload setting suggested by tein. If you try to add preload you will raise the car up but it becomes too stiff and the dampers aren't as efficient. Be aware that the zero preload setting will put the fenders to about a 1 finger gap to the top of the oem 245/40/18 dunlops. It looks aggressive but definitely not everyone might be looking to be that low. Even at the zero preload setting I think the ride is still comfortable. I haven't bottomed out yet but I have scraped the skid plate but from what you guys have said this seems to be normal for any lowered WRX.
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Old 06-18-2019, 05:45 PM   #1981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fullah View Post
After having the tein basis on the car for a few weeks I still stand by my previous post. They are worth the money if you want a budget coil set up. The only thing I will point out is to leave them on the zero preload setting suggested by tein. If you try to add preload you will raise the car up but it becomes too stiff and the dampers aren't as efficient. Be aware that the zero preload setting will put the fenders to about a 1 finger gap to the top of the oem 245/40/18 dunlops. It looks aggressive but definitely not everyone might be looking to be that low. Even at the zero preload setting I think the ride is still comfortable. I haven't bottomed out yet but I have scraped the skid plate but from what you guys have said this seems to be normal for any lowered WRX.
That is a good observation.

At the same time it really makes me wonder what is going on in those dampers that makes the, behave that way.
I’d understand if you were preloading above the wheel rate but you weren’t doing that were you? That’d be probably an inch or more depending on the spring rate.
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Old 06-18-2019, 06:52 PM   #1982
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uofime View Post
That is a good observation.

At the same time it really makes me wonder what is going on in those dampers that makes the, behave that way.
I’d understand if you were preloading above the wheel rate but you weren’t doing that were you? That’d be probably an inch or more depending on the spring rate.
It's not an issue specific to tein but any coilover would be susceptible to the same issue. When you add preload you are compressing the spring. This helps in corners keeping the cars weight from shifting side to side but for regular street driving you would want little to no preload for a more neutral ride. The dampers aren't really designed for peak performance with preload added on the tein basis. Like I said the car will drive and the ride isn't terrible but comparing the two, having zero preload is the best setting on these coilovers.
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Old 06-18-2019, 07:38 PM   #1983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fullah View Post
If you try to add preload you will raise the car up
If adding preload raises the car up, doesn't the fact that it's raising up mean that the preload force in the spring is trying to reduce back down to the static corner weight applied to it by the car's sprung mass? I'm mainly thinking in terms of setting all four because I am aware that applying different amounts of preload changes the loads carried at the corners around (it's the principle behind cornerweighting). I'm also assuming that the sta-bars have endlinks adjustable for removing preload from the bars.

What do you think I might be missing here? Be as technical as you care to be, I'm not new to suspension stuff in general.


Norm
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Old 06-18-2019, 08:59 PM   #1984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fullah View Post
After having the tein basis on the car for a few weeks I still stand by my previous post. They are worth the money if you want a budget coil set up. The only thing I will point out is to leave them on the zero preload setting suggested by tein. If you try to add preload you will raise the car up but it becomes too stiff and the dampers aren't as efficient. Be aware that the zero preload setting will put the fenders to about a 1 finger gap to the top of the oem 245/40/18 dunlops. It looks aggressive but definitely not everyone might be looking to be that low. Even at the zero preload setting I think the ride is still comfortable. I haven't bottomed out yet but I have scraped the skid plate but from what you guys have said this seems to be normal for any lowered WRX.
that is way too low for where I live so it becomes impractical and if raising it means the handling is affected for the worse, then that isn't good either.
Keen to hear your feedback after a 5+ months of ownership.
as with any shock/suspension upgrade, it's always a love thing for first 1-2 months cause it feels different.
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Old 06-21-2019, 01:12 AM   #1985
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IT.WRX View Post
Hey guys, not sure if this is the right thread but does anyone know exactly what other Subaru struts/coils fit the 15+? I've seen the 15+ STI fits the WRX but I'm wondering what else I could get and just directly swap into my 17 WRX. TIA
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Old 06-21-2019, 09:37 AM   #1986
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All 15+ WRX and STI struts/shocks are interchangeable in terms of fitment at least.

- Andrew
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Old 06-25-2019, 02:45 PM   #1987
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Can someone confirm the spc 81260 is the right application front lower camber bolt for the 2015 WRX? I'm about to install it and find it weird that the nut and head of the camber bolt is not metric. Just making sure I didn't get the wrong ones. It's not a 14mm, 17mm or 19mm which is weird since they market it for Japanese cars.
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Old 06-28-2019, 11:25 AM   #1988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fullah View Post
Can someone confirm the spc 81260 is the right application front lower camber bolt for the 2015 WRX? I'm about to install it and find it weird that the nut and head of the camber bolt is not metric. Just making sure I didn't get the wrong ones. It's not a 14mm, 17mm or 19mm which is weird since they market it for Japanese cars.
Anyone?
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Old 06-29-2019, 09:07 PM   #1989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fullah View Post
Can someone confirm the spc 81260 is the right application front lower camber bolt for the 2015 WRX? I'm about to install it and find it weird that the nut and head of the camber bolt is not metric. Just making sure I didn't get the wrong ones. It's not a 14mm, 17mm or 19mm which is weird since they market it for Japanese cars.
This fits. It's a 19mm on the nut side and 15mm on the head of the adjusting bolt. The lower camber bolt doesnt add a huge amount of camber..it's barely noticible and probably will not ease my rubbing issue in the front on 18x8 +35 on coils. The way its installed is with the top of the triangle facing outward as that seemed to be the most negative camber.

Anyone confirm this is the right orientation? Haven't had an alignment yet but I matched both sides this way. Top bolt is maxed out. Also why can't this be installed in the top position instead of the bottom?

This is the passenger front for reference



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Old 08-27-2019, 08:32 AM   #1990
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What is the stock scrub radius for a stock WRX/STI?
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Old 09-22-2019, 05:37 AM   #1991
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posting here as well as in the main section for visibility

Anyway. My WRX came with BC BR coilovers that are about 1/4 of an inch from their lowest possible setting, and I'd like to install the suspension I purchased that came off of a 2018 STi so that I stop scraping all the damn time. I took one of the coilovers off today, and to my surprise, the STi suspension seemed to be too long to install properly. Not to my surprise, the BC's were so thrashed that adjusting the height was impossible, so that took the alternative I had off the table.

I assume I need to make some adjustments to compensate for what'll be nearly 2" of lift from the coils back to stockish height. I have no idea what to adjust; I know I'll need to get it professionally aligned afterwards, however, I'd like to install the suspension to save some money.

So is this going to put me in over my head? Am I wrong about the compatibility between the 2017 base WRX and 2018 STi suspension?

What's the best oil for my car?
How do I get 400whp cheap?
Do I really need a tune with just an exhaust, intake, front mount and bigger turbo?

Thanks Nabisco
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Old 09-22-2019, 08:03 AM   #1992
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All of these questions have been answered many, many times before.

Look at the post by racecomp engineering just a few posts back regarding oem suspension fitment.

I have swapped out the suspension on my 15 wrx on my own maybe 4x now, so I can assure you it is perfectly doable outside of a shop. I recommend a 1/2 drive wrench and 6 point sockets, a buddy, and an impact wrench. Lowes and harbor freight sell a plug-in electric one that really like for pretty cheap.

Look up some videos on YouTube to get a feel for what kind of work is involved.

Use a subaru recommended 5w30 synthetic and the oem oil filter.

E85 tends to be the best bang for buck by far for forced induction cars.

Yes. Pro or etune for pretty much any airflow/engine work besides catback.
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Old 09-22-2019, 09:10 AM   #1993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KalamazooSaabaru View Post
Anyway. My WRX came with BC BR coilovers that are about 1/4 of an inch from their lowest possible setting, and I'd like to install the suspension I purchased that came off of a 2018 STi so that I stop scraping all the damn time. I took one of the coilovers off today, and to my surprise, the STi suspension seemed to be too long to install properly. Not to my surprise, the BC's were so thrashed that adjusting the height was impossible, so that took the alternative I had off the table.
Think about what's going on here. It's nice to be ambitious, but ambition + a fuller understanding of how something like this actually works usually gives better results. "Seemed" is fine for as far as it goes, as it's your clue to stop and think. You've done the 'stop' part right . . .

You've posted all the information needed to understand what's going on. Big hint: what do you suppose adjusting coilover height does to its as-installed length, and would you expect it to no longer fit after adjusting it to be higher?


If it makes you feel any better, it's at least possible that the previous owner set the coilovers down near minimum ride height to make installation on the car easier for him to DIY.


Norm
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Old 09-22-2019, 10:48 AM   #1994
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K. the questions at the bottom of my post were sarcasm, you can tell in the future by the dancing cartoons next to the statements.

I'm aware that its supposed to fit. I have watched the used tube videos. what im asking is if by having the car aligned for what is essentially 2" of drop(from the coilovers), is there something(tie rod, control arm) that i need to adjust to let the whole assembly droop enough to physically locate the strut in its install location. every video im seeing shows no spring compressor being used unless swapping tophats or adding lift spacers.
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Old 09-22-2019, 01:49 PM   #1995
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Disconnecting the stabilizer bar usually helps.


With only 18 posts spread out over more than 2.5 years, don't expect people responding to a technical question to have much of a handle on what your sense of humor is like.


Norm
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Old 09-22-2019, 04:37 PM   #1996
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Ah my bad, those animations don't show up on the mobile app.

You will need an alignment no doubt as you already know. The toe will be way off. But you shouldn't need to make those adjustments before attempting to install the suspension. It will fit. But as norm says the oem suspension will be taller than what is on there now so it will be more difficult to install than to remove the existing one.

Personally I had to disconnect the sway bars in the rear but not the front. You'll want to lift the car up evenly though.

Last edited by violentleaf; 09-22-2019 at 04:55 PM.
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Old 09-22-2019, 07:28 PM   #1997
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I was able to get them installed after removing the end links and using a small jack to manipulate the control arm into place to re-install the end links.

I did have to cut one of the end links, whoever was in there before me did a number on the internal hex portion of the original end link.
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Old 09-23-2019, 08:45 AM   #1998
Norm Peterson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KalamazooSaabaru View Post
I was able to get them installed after removing the end links and using a small jack to manipulate the control arm into place to re-install the end links.

I did have to cut one of the end links, whoever was in there before me did a number on the internal hex portion of the original end link.



Norm
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