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Old 07-11-2018, 02:20 PM   #2476
PDXREALTOR
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I just got all my full race stuff, and, the header doesn't have the o2 bung.

I have a wideband, so I will need the top port on the downpipe for it (it won't reach to the rear O2 bung).

From the people in this thread, what is the preferred method of front o2 sensor placement?

Has anyone used the rear o2 port via extending the front 02 sensor?

Other alternatives?
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Old 07-12-2018, 01:55 AM   #2477
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Well, I welded in a bung at the top of the down pipe on the left hand side. I sure hope I don't run into any blockages on install.
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Old 07-12-2018, 02:36 AM   #2478
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On my 2005 LGT, I ran the stock sensor at the top of the downpipe for years and it worked just fine. Better than stock actually - it read within a couple percent of my wideband all the way down to about 11.2 (it would never show anything lower than 11.2 though).

On my 2009 LGT, I put the stock sensor at the top of the downpipe and the engine started throwing codes after a month or something. Replaced the sensor, same thing happened. Not sure what's up with that. Going to move the sensor back to the manifold soon and see if the problem goes away.
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Old 07-12-2018, 02:45 AM   #2479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NSFW View Post
On my 2005 LGT, I ran the stock sensor at the top of the downpipe for years and it worked just fine. Better than stock actually - it read within a couple percent of my wideband all the way down to about 11.2 (it would never show anything lower than 11.2 though).

On my 2009 LGT, I put the stock sensor at the top of the downpipe and the engine started throwing codes after a month or something. Replaced the sensor, same thing happened. Not sure what's up with that. Going to move the sensor back to the manifold soon and see if the problem goes away.
That's odd. Wiring maybe? I plan on doing the exact same thing per Full Races direction.
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Old 07-13-2018, 08:32 AM   #2480
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Is the extra response with a tmic worth the loss in fmic efficiency? Ill be putting on this kit later today and I'm debating on sticking with my fmic, and flipping the manifold or going with a nice big top mount like a spearco.

500/500 dyno jet numbers on a responsive car is what I'm after.
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Old 07-14-2018, 11:34 AM   #2481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PDXREALTOR View Post
Is the extra response with a tmic worth the loss in fmic efficiency? Ill be putting on this kit later today and I'm debating on sticking with my fmic, and flipping the manifold or going with a nice big top mount like a spearco.

500/500 dyno jet numbers on a responsive car is what I'm after.
you know if you're really worried about it you should look into a air to water. more effecient and less drop
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Old 07-14-2018, 03:23 PM   #2482
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Originally Posted by subaru_gc8 View Post
you know if you're really worried about it you should look into a air to water. more effecient and less drop
I wouldn't call it worried, lol. I'm just enjoying going back to a somewhat stockish setup, iwg and bov, and thought a nice fat spearco would look nice and, If it performed why not.

After more research and a visit to a local shop (for some other parts) I've decided to keep the fmic.

Manifold is off, mock up of IC piping is done, and by the end of the day the manifold will be flipped and 3' of oc piping gone.

I clocked the bw and instantly changed my mind about all that hardware being attached to the front of the compressor housing. Lol.
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Old 07-14-2018, 04:07 PM   #2483
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I agree with the FMIC. A well designed one is close enough for spool, especially on these EFR turbos, and it's so much a "set and forget" type system. The TMIC is fine for DD, the occasional drag pass, etc. If you're really beating on the car it doesn't matter what you have, they will get REALLY hot. As long as your radiator is up to the task then FMIC all the way.
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Old 07-14-2018, 05:01 PM   #2484
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Originally Posted by subydude View Post
I agree with the FMIC. A well designed one is close enough for spool, especially on these EFR turbos, and it's so much a "set and forget" type system. The TMIC is fine for DD, the occasional drag pass, etc. If you're really beating on the car it doesn't matter what you have, they will get REALLY hot. As long as your radiator is up to the task then FMIC all the way.
Ya, I don't like to be limited and with speed density I'm already a freak about IATs. Nothing is worse than getting out of a stop and go traffic situation or a long stop light and be limited as to how far that throttle can do towards the floor.
Radiator is next on the list. For some reason I felt an oil cooler was more important.
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Old 07-14-2018, 05:22 PM   #2485
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Originally Posted by Full-Race Geoff View Post
So we took this input seriously and called every fitting supplier i can find in the US yesterday/today. I can't find anyone with the swivel fittings for the crimp style hose. We can provide a line that would have the 90 degree crimp on one side and a straight -4AN on the other side along with a swivel adapter to get the desired rotation? is that what you are suggesting
Thank you for including this in your newer kits. Huge help!
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Old 07-16-2018, 02:19 PM   #2486
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Originally Posted by PDXREALTOR View Post
Is that 30 psi @ 4k on a pull? Sorry if that's a dumb question.

I hit my max set mbc boost, 28 psi, by 4k on a 4th gear pull with my fp jb green.

I'm excited to get this equal sized but completely different behaving turbo installed and tuned!
Yes, street pull in 4th with VD. I'm sure there is more room to improve spool. I'm waiting to play with air/spark/avcs on the dyno.
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Old 07-16-2018, 02:26 PM   #2487
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Originally Posted by point78 View Post
What base spring pressure are you using in the 2 port Turbosmart?

I had a 12lb but upped it to 16lb now.

I ran mine at a lower boost for a year or so before I turned it up, so the bushing was probably already leaking by then.

I haven't had time to put my new bushing in & play with it yet. Need more boost!
I'm pretty sure I have the 14psi spring it shipped with.




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Originally Posted by Waddlz View Post
I hit 28 psi in 4th at 3600 RPMs with my Rotated 7163 on E85, EWG. car pulls hard and the response is amazing. granted I overboosted and it fell on its face, but its capable of more. this is with stock header and ETS FMIC at 6000 FT altitude.
Nice. I'm sure the stock manifold helps a bit, but the FMIC might even it back out. Avcs? Single or dual? What AFR/TIMING/AVCS @3.6k? What do you start pull at? I start at 2500.
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Old 07-16-2018, 02:37 PM   #2488
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Yes, street pull in 4th with VD. I'm sure there is more room to improve spool. I'm waiting to play with air/spark/avcs on the dyno.
That's a question I've been asking myself based on some things I've read with regards to spool and avcs. Is there that much to be had?

I actually read there's some benefit to running a different avcs than the Cobb ots, but don't know how much truth there is to that. I'm not familiar with tuning avcs so, do you think it's worth it getting a tune from someone like yimi sport, who seems to be real familiar with these bw turbos?
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Old 07-16-2018, 04:19 PM   #2489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PDXREALTOR View Post
That's a question I've been asking myself based on some things I've read with regards to spool and avcs. Is there that much to be had?

I actually read there's some benefit to running a different avcs than the Cobb ots, but don't know how much truth there is to that. I'm not familiar with tuning avcs so, do you think it's worth it getting a tune from someone like yimi sport, who seems to be real familiar with these bw turbos?

If you don't know much about tuning, I would definitely say yes. Yimi or Ron Watson/Phatbotti.

Every time you change an AVCS cell, you are changing VE which means you have to retune spark and AFR. Its tedious process and as someone who has played with it in street tuning I can say Im not sure it pays much do mess with it if you are not using a load bearing dyno to hold load cells.... or you are a pro doing etunes with lots of experience tuning it for different combos on a dyno.

Also... improving spool doesn't necessarily improve power.
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Old 07-16-2018, 04:37 PM   #2490
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Originally Posted by jj_warhorse View Post
If you don't know much about tuning, I would definitely say yes. Yimi or Ron Watson/Phatbotti.

Every time you change an AVCS cell, you are changing VE which means you have to retune spark and AFR. Its tedious process and as someone who has played with it in street tuning I can say Im not sure it pays much do mess with it if you are not using a load bearing dyno to hold load cells.... or you are a pro doing etunes with lots of experience tuning it for different combos on a dyno.

Also... improving spool doesn't necessarily improve power.
I know enough to tune my car, and that playing with AVCS requires re-working the VE table. I have to redo my VE table (entire tune really) anyways since I just put the entire Full Race kit on.

I could learn AVCS, it's just matter of knowing what works best with these turbos. If there is nothing special about the avcs in relation to these specific turbos and it's just another 'how to get better spool' question as with any other turbo I won't worry about it. I see that question asked a billion times on the internet. Lol. I just read a couple things that made me think these turbos, vs others, may actually benefit from some tweaked avcs settings
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Old 07-16-2018, 04:51 PM   #2491
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PDXREALTOR View Post
.

I could learn AVCS, it's just matter of knowing what works best with these turbos.

I just read a couple things that made me think these turbos, vs others, may actually benefit from some tweaked avcs settings
Same. If you find an answer to this... please share.
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Old 07-16-2018, 04:52 PM   #2492
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Same. If you find an answer to this... please share.
For sure.....
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Old 07-16-2018, 06:00 PM   #2493
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I just spoke with a tuner very familiar with these turbos. There is no magical avcs calibration that will benefit the SC BW turbos anymore than any other turbo. The avcs can be optimized beyond what Cobb stage 2 OTS offers - but - what can't be?

Now, the TS is a bit of a different story. It may worth learning and taking a hard look at the AVCS if you have a TS.
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Old 07-16-2018, 11:26 PM   #2494
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Doing some work on the car and it looks like I will have to try an oil feed restrictor.



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Old 07-17-2018, 03:31 AM   #2495
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Originally Posted by yamahaSHO View Post
Doing some work on the car and it looks like I will have to try an oil feed restrictor.
And what are your signs of excessive oil supply? The fact is that I also worried about this issue, just in case bought a restrictor. But I have not installed it yet, now everything works directly and I see signs of excessive oil supply.
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Old 07-17-2018, 09:14 AM   #2496
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Originally Posted by sergey2007 View Post
And what are your signs of excessive oil supply? The fact is that I also worried about this issue, just in case bought a restrictor. But I have not installed it yet, now everything works directly and I see signs of excessive oil supply.
That's why I posted the pictures...
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Old 07-17-2018, 10:26 AM   #2497
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He is leaking oil out of the turbo.
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Old 07-17-2018, 10:30 AM   #2498
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I purchased the oil return flange from Full-Race last year and hadn't put it in yet. However, I ordered a flanged -10AN fitting from Treadstone last night as the Full-Race setup still seems restrictive/undesirable. I used the Treadstone fitting on my 7064 on my S2000 and haven't noticed anything of issue yet.

I'll start with that, clean up the turbo and see if it continues to leak.
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Old 07-17-2018, 10:42 AM   #2499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yamahaSHO View Post
I purchased the oil return flange from Full-Race last year and hadn't put it in yet. However, I ordered a flanged -10AN fitting from Treadstone last night as the Full-Race setup still seems restrictive/undesirable. I used the Treadstone fitting on my 7064 on my S2000 and haven't noticed anything of issue yet.

I'll start with that, clean up the turbo and see if it continues to leak.
I thought the efr turbos had a internal restrictor.
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Old 07-17-2018, 10:43 AM   #2500
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They do, but some people on his thread had to add another.
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