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11-03-2005, 09:22 AM | #1 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 48219
Join Date: Nov 2003
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Vehicle:. Always drive the race line . |
Tips & Tricks to a clutch install
I will be installing an OEM clutch and flywheel today(in an hour or so). i've read 3-4 different write-ups on how to do it. I have the shop manual in *.pdf form as well
It seems most people have a lot of trouble in the step where you have to divorce the gearbox from the engine and also in the marrying the gearbox to the engine stage. In the service manual it says to set the specialty tool on the engine before you remove the gearbox. I believe this is to keep the engine from changing the angle once you unbolt the gearbox. i don't have that tool. so i will be using a piece of wood and a secondary jack as a substitute. I know about pulling the pivot rod out by inserting a 6mm screw after removing the 10mm hex screw cover. What i AM looking for is anything that may make my life easier. Do I need to unhook the axles from the hubs? or will they move enough when i slide the transmission back? Should i take the propeller shaft completely out or just unhook it from the rear diff? Should i use loctite on the flywheel bolts? I don't think the FSM calls for it but it may be a good idea. Thanks for your helpful responses.
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11-03-2005, 09:37 AM | #2 | ||||
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 49763
Join Date: Dec 2003
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Die Auto Stadt
Vehicle:2004 WRX Jetzt mit 25% mehr Motor! |
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
CAUTION: Mark the location of the top strut to hub bolt!!! This is what sets your front camber and must be put back in the same location to maintain correct camber. Quote:
Also, don't forget about the shifter linkage. Even after you unbolt it from the transmission, it loves to get all jammed up in the back of the transmission at the worse possible times when lowering the unit. Good Luck! |
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11-03-2005, 11:03 AM | #3 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 66304
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Tampa
Vehicle:98 RWD BG Outback ...with R200 and ITBs ;) |
Interesting to see differences in technique for a tranny pull.
Here is my process: -Unplug and drop exhaust -Unbolt and drop driveshaft -Unbolt the Lower Control Arms (not touching the uprights or strut bolts) and sway bar -Punch out the roll pins on the axle stubs and swing the uprights outward to get the axles off -Disconnect the battery and unbolt the starter and top tranny bolts from the top -Put a jack under the trans, unbolt the crossmember and lower tranny bolts (If you have a dog bone take that bolt out too) |
11-03-2005, 11:04 AM | #4 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 53034
Join Date: Jan 2004
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Bear, Delaware, USA
Vehicle:2017 WRXPremCOBBStg2 Crystal Black Silica |
I didn't realize until it was too late that the engine would pitch forward. I ended up using another jack to "lift" teh front of the engine to get the angle right for mating the tranny. As far as front axels I just unbolt the tranny and then move it side to side to get the front axles off. I'v only done this three times so there may be more tricks buyt I always end up removing the fron exhaust and propeller shaft like the shop manual says I just dont undue the front cojntrol arm bolts or ball joints which might be why it's harder to mate back up because I attach the front axles then mate it back up.
One important thing to know is that gear oil is in the drive shaft/propeller shaft. You have to cover the tranny end and the end of the drive shaft or it will leak all over. Oh and take the time to mare them up first don't try to use the bolts to pull them together or you may have the problem I just had - snapped two bolts - doh! I've put in two clutches and an entire new tranny with RA gears so far on my WRX. O |
11-03-2005, 05:04 PM | #5 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 48219
Join Date: Nov 2003
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Vehicle:. Always drive the race line . |
cool. thanks for the help.
i cant get the transmssion out. all 8 engine to tranny bolts are out. clutch pivot rod is out. gear linkage is unbolted. help please. |
11-03-2005, 06:04 PM | #6 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 48219
Join Date: Nov 2003
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Vehicle:. Always drive the race line . |
how do i 'free the release fork'? i've got the pivot rod out and can pull the release fork up. but what do i do next?
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11-03-2005, 06:46 PM | #7 |
*** Banned ***
Member#: 16200
Join Date: Mar 2002
Vehicle:OK buy Nates beans westcoastroasting.com |
....so why the oem flywheel???
there 'aint no way in a frozen hell with icewater that I'd put a stock flywheel back in if I had the opportunity NOT to....the stock clutch is a good idea, but stock flywheel....NOOOOOoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo oooooooooooooooooooooo. |
11-03-2005, 09:03 PM | #8 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 48219
Join Date: Nov 2003
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Vehicle:. Always drive the race line . |
well, got the gearbox apart from the engine. so we are 50% done. the stock clutch was worn down to the rivets. flywheel was pretty messed up
now on to the store to get transmision fluid, brake cleaner, loctite, and a lower strut mount bolt. Phase 2 begins. |
11-04-2005, 04:24 AM | #9 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 48219
Join Date: Nov 2003
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Vehicle:. Always drive the race line . |
got done a few hours ago.
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11-04-2005, 11:52 AM | #10 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 53034
Join Date: Jan 2004
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Bear, Delaware, USA
Vehicle:2017 WRXPremCOBBStg2 Crystal Black Silica |
Congratulations! It's not an easy job! If you were able to do this without breaking anything then you are doing better than me! I'll be drillng and taping to helicoil a few transmission bolt holes on my block this weekend.
O |
11-04-2005, 03:48 PM | #11 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 48219
Join Date: Nov 2003
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Vehicle:. Always drive the race line . |
the only bolt we stripped was the lower strut bolt. but luckily i had a couple extra ones from when i put camber bolts in the rear.
taking the transmission off was a HUGE PITA. even after taking everything off, it wouldn't come off. but aligning it up wasn't as difficult since we had 3 people total communicating and aligning it up. one would stand by the engine bay and say which way the transmission needed to be angled. and we didn't put the nuts and bolts on till they would easily go in most of the way by hand. but after this ordeal, i'd like to thank those that posted in this thread, everyone who has done a step by step write up of a transmission install in the past, scoobymods, Uncle Scotty for giving me the means to accquire the FSM a while ago and my 2 friends who spent 12 hours underneath the car. i'm pretty confident the next time it won't take more than 5 hours. so if anybody wants help installing a clutch near gainesville, let me know. Things will go by a lot faster when you have someone who's done it once before. |
11-05-2005, 12:46 AM | #12 |
*** Banned ***
Member#: 16200
Join Date: Mar 2002
Vehicle:OK buy Nates beans westcoastroasting.com |
I'm always happy to have been of any help...glad ya got it done
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11-05-2005, 03:39 AM | #13 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 72680
Join Date: Oct 2004
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Tacoma/Spanaway/Graham
Vehicle:2013 Subaru STi Satin White Pearl |
Clutch install is definately fun, I just did a friends the other day with his help. We did the whole thing over about 3 days taking our time and reading the FSM. It actually went fairly smooth since were not working with a time deadline. Next time we will be using a low profile transmission jack instead of the strongarm method for removing and installing the transmission. Glad to hear your install went ok
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