ESP - The competition

[bradowen]

Originally Posted by Mechie3

It's not a mod car if things aren't held on with zipties after they fall off on the first run.



Bolded the big part. I used to have an ESP WRX and now have an F500/FM. I bought it for $2500. Thankfully I have access to a machine shop with a CNC and CAD software and have the ability to design and machine my own parts (I'm an engineer). I've seen too many mod cars on third and fourth owners with some of the owners only having the equivalent of redneck/internet engineering knowledge, an angle grinder, band saw, and welder. Things get sketchy really quick. My FM was iffy the first year, missed 2 events due to mechanical. Completely stripped it and rebuilt it and it was stellar the next year. Time invested up front is a deal breaker that most people don't have.

lol, I would actually just take FM and probably CM out of blanket statements about prepared and mod.

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[BeBop86]

Originally Posted by Hold_Fast

I read that as yes, but I'm not 100% sure the double aluminum arm trick with the sway bar attachment modification would work for either of us.

C. Equipment and/or specifications may be exchanged between different years and models of a vehicle if:
(a) the item is standard on the year/model from which it was taken,
and
(b) the years/models are listed on the same line of Appendix A, Street
Prepared Classes.
The updated/backdated part or the part to which it is to be attached may not be altered, modified, machined, welded, or otherwise changed to facilitate the updating/backdating allowance. Standard factory installation methods, locations, and configurations are allowed. The updating and/or backdating of engines, transmissions, transaxles, and/or unibodies must be done as a unit; component parts and specifications of these units may not be interchanged.

I think you're right... these bolded sections answer two of our questions.
-Can't use standard parts in different locations (e.g. lateral links). But I should be able to use the regular ones anyways.
-Can't use sedan fenders as I think that's considered the unibody? But then again, flares are allowed and cutting the fenders are allowed. (Besides, I think those bubble type flairs look awesome on wagons, even more so than on sedans anyways )

[wrx wagone]

Originally Posted by Hold_Fast

I read that as yes, but I'm not 100% sure the double aluminum arm trick with the sway bar attachment modification would work for either of us.

At least in ST*, you can replace lateral links, but you must have only one method of camber adjustment. These arms do not provide camber adjustment, so plates or bolts should work just fine.

[Hold_Fast]

Originally Posted by BeBop86

I think you're right... these bolded sections answer two of our questions.
-Can't use standard parts in different locations (e.g. lateral links). But I should be able to use the regular ones anyways.
-Can't use sedan fenders as I think that's considered the unibody? But then again, flares are allowed and cutting the fenders are allowed. (Besides, I think those bubble type flairs look awesome on wagons, even more so than on sedans anyways )

That's what I've been looking into doing (flares that is), since there is a statement somewhere as well about swapping complete fenders. Ordered some a month ago, now if they would ever get off back order and come in...

Originally Posted by wrx wagone

At least in ST*, you can replace lateral links, but you must have only one method of camber adjustment. These arms do not provide camber adjustment, so plates or bolts should work just fine.

One would think it would be relatively the same. What did you use to mount the sway bar to the aluminum links?

[Mechie3]

Poltec makes some that bolt directly to an adapter on the knuckle.

http://www.poltec.us/products/subaru...s/1a-df016.htm

[wrx wagone]

Originally Posted by Mechie3

Poltec makes some that bolt directly to an adapter on the knuckle.

http://www.poltec.us/products/subaru...s/1a-df016.htm

I used those. Is PolTec still in business? Make sure they are before ordering.

[BeBop86]

Ugh... I'm now poor

Just sent my order in for my first set of Hoosier A6 tires (285/30/18) and wheels to fit them (Mach V Wicked Awesome 18x9.5 +42).

Thought about buying cheap/affordable wheels, but figured I should get something nice if I'm trying to be competitive.

Any tips for first timers on the purple crack? I was told I don't need to get them balanced. My first national level event is coming up on Aug 9...


The main bullet points of my current setup is:
-2002 WRX
-2005 transmission
-2007 engine/electricals
-Oem front bar, 22mm whiteline rear
-H&R Clubsport coilovers, 10k front springs, 11k rear springs.
-neg 3* front camber, neg 0.5* rear camber, zero toe all around.
-OBX front helical diff, Cusco 1.5way rear diff.

[subydude]

No balance needed. Overdrive the **** out of them as you'll find out you're still under driving what they're capable of after the 1st run. Keep them generally cool. IIRC the optimum temp is about 120 degrees for the A6 and they get there pretty quick, especially with a codriver.

[BeBop86]

Should I bring a pyrometer and garden sprayer with water?

What about tire pressures?

[mccanixx]

Originally Posted by BeBop86

Should I bring a pyrometer and garden sprayer with water?

What about tire pressures?

I generally use the touch method. Can't hold your hand on it for 3 seconds, water them. Don't know the overall temps this time of the year in the great NW but you should be fine. If you have a pyrometer. Bring it. It's best to not let them creep past 120 as Tim states, hard to get the core back in the time between runs.

Bring a sprayer. I use 30 fr 28 rr as a starting point and adjust the rears up or down depending on rotation. I run lower than most people I've encountered but they still say hoosier on the sidewall at the ened so...not too low for my set up.

Just check the rollover if you're concerend start up from that by a couple pounds.

P.S. why aren't you doing the pro?

[BeBop86]

I don't think I'll get my wheels/tires in the mail by then That, and the cost.

I'll try out next year... hopefully tires will still be good after only using for Canadian nationals... or do you think they're only competitive for one "event"?

[mccanixx]

Originally Posted by BeBop86

I don't think I'll get my wheels/tires in the mail by then That, and the cost.

I'll try out next year... hopefully tires will still be good after only using for Canadian nationals... or do you think they're only competitive for one "event"?

They can be competitive for a whole season, +. I would put their total between 80-120 runs. Especially for your area. Just take care of them as far as storage. Bag them and don't put them somewhere the temperature swings radically. Basement, etc.

[CamaroFS34]

Originally Posted by mccanixx

I generally use the touch method. Can't hold your hand on it for 3 seconds, water them. Don't know the overall temps this time of the year in the great NW but you should be fine. If you have a pyrometer. Bring it. It's best to not let them creep past 120 as Tim states, hard to get the core back in the time between runs.

I haven't used a pyrometer, but, like Greg, if it's too hot for me to hold my hand on it, then I spray. If you're a single driver, you won't have anything to worry about.

I use 30 fr 28 rr as a starting point and adjust the rears up or down depending on rotation. I run lower than most people I've encountered but they still say hoosier on the sidewall at the ened so...not too low for my set up.

And to contrast, I run 39-42psi front and 34-36psi rear. At a ProSolo, since you do four runs in quick succession and I never have anyone to help me between those runs, I just set them for 38/34 and then don't touch them. I figure they will be where I really want them by the 3rd run, which I consider the sweet spot.

P.S. why aren't you doing the pro?

This. Even if you do it on old tires/street tires, it is actually a good learning experience to know how a Pro is set up (which is vastly different from a Tour). Plus, do you really want to wait until next year to try to meet insane people like me and Greg?

[BeBop86]

Oh, I thought you guys were talking about the tour.

Yeah, I've never done a pro-solo. Do I need an SCCA membership, or is the $110 the only fee for the weekend?

[mccanixx]

Originally Posted by CamaroFS34

Plus, do you really want to wait until next year to try to meet insane people like me and Greg?

Speak for yourself. I'm a well adjusted, normal, animal.

[subydude]

If you haven't read this, it's pretty much the best resource for A6's considering it's written by Hoosier

http://www.hoosiertire.com/pdfs/tctR6_A6.pdf

Notice what it says about the tire feeling like it's skipping over the pavement when it comes to tire pressures.

[Hold_Fast]

Originally Posted by mccanixx

They can be competitive for a whole season, +. I would put their total between 80-120 runs. Especially for your area. Just take care of them as far as storage. Bag them and don't put them somewhere the temperature swings radically. Basement, etc.

Bagging them is important. I didn't think it would really matter, but I did have a set start to show some cracks on me after a few runs after a winter of basement storage.

Also, I would consider adding a bit more negative rear camber to avoid excessive should wear. It's not to hard to wind up with a few tires that have plenty of sticky meat in the center of the tread, but are ruined because the shoulders are near corded.

[BeBop86]

Should -1° to -1.5° be okay?

[BeBop86]

Just saw Karen's pics, nice color choice he he he

Bummed I didn't finally get to meet you guys, will have to next year!

[BeBop86]

Does anyone here have a trunk spoiler setup like the CSP Miatas typically do on their Impreza?

[CamaroFS34]

Originally Posted by BeBop86

Does anyone here have a trunk spoiler setup like the CSP Miatas typically do on their Impreza?

Brad Owen was sporting one last year; don't know if he still has it.

I still have the stock WRX wing and I know Greg is wingless. One of the local ESP Mustang drivers here in the DC area actually wind tunnel tested his car, and came up with a tiny spoiler (about an inch high) as the best application for his car. I'm not convinced its necessary for our cars at autocross speeds.

[BeBop86]

Interesting...

Brad, if you're on here, do you have a pic of your car?

I only ask, because a friend has a slightly bent trunk I can have, and I was going to have fun with it and weld or bolt on a spoiler to play with.

[bradowen]

I don't have any super awesome pictures of my spoiler. This is the best I can come up with on short notice.



There are a bunch more if you are willing to dig around on our photo site. http://owenphotos.smugmug.com/Autocross Even some of those far away shots are actually useful if you download the original sized version under details.

Fun fact, my spoiler is made from the other half of the sheet of aluminum left over from building the spoiler on Doug's car that you posted a picture. And I enjoy the irony that instead of posting a picture of Doug driving his car you posted one of Brian driving it. Well played sir!

It is also a great example of just how narrow the BMWs are. I had to add the dropping end plates to get it to cover the whole back of the car.

[BeBop86]

That was a fun weekend! Had a noobie trial by fire on both dry and pouring wet for the Hoosiers

Participated in the 2013 ASN Canadian Autoslalom Championship up in Pitt Meadows, B.C. and came home with 1st place in ESP! My co-driver, who has only driven my car 1 or 2 times before the event, ended up in 3rd by only a cone. There were 9 drivers in ESP and 130 drivers total.

[silverhks]

Well Done, Sir!