STU guys check in. Set ups

[Snakebot]

1. APS CAI, everything else stock

2. Frankenstein 3" cat-back...it's a long story...

3. Megan Racing coilovers (8k-F, 6K-R), Strano FSB, Cobb/Hotchkis RSB, F/R STBs

4. Alignment
Front Camber: Max that the Megan camber plates and the stock cam bolt allows, I think it's somewhere around neg. 3-3.5.

Rear Camber: Approx neg. 1.5.

Front Toe: I set the car up for 1/16" total toe out for the street with neg 2 degrees of camber. For auto-x toe out is whatever I get when I crank the camber plates all the way in, seems to work well so far.

Rear Toe: Was/is set to 1/16" out the week before Nationals. I haven't had a chance to check since.

Ride Height: I didn't really measure. I just played with the front/rear heights until it felt right on the butt-meter. I really need to get it corner balanced.

5. RT615s on 17x8 FN01R-C.

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[wm07]

04 STi.

1. Engine: crank pulley.
2. Exhaust: Gruppe-S header (mostly for the weight saving), B&B catted downpipe, cat back.
3. Suspension: Whiteline G4 Race (9k/8k), 14" F, 13.5" R. Cusco Front(drilled and rotated 45 degrees) and Rear camber plates. Strano 32mm FSB, Cusco 22mm RSB set to full soft. Cusco Front and rear tower bars. Energy Suspension bushings + Group-N trailing arms bushings, steering rack bushings,
4. Alignment: Front -3.6 camber(pushed all the way in at events). 3mm total toe out. -1.6 camber rear with zero toe. Alignment is done at home using SmartCamber gauges, too lazy to measure caster , will get corner balanced and laser alignment very soon, so I will find out the actual numbers. Street alignment is -2.8 camber in the front with 1 mm toe in, I set 3mm toe out with camber plate at max negative camber, and dialed back the camber plates until I get a little toe in, and ended up getting -2.8 camber for street driving... may be it's too aggressive for street driving, but then I don't drive the car everyday.
5. Tires: Azenis RT-615- 245/45 17 on 17x8.5 wheels.

Need more mods on the driver though.

[Snakebot]

Originally Posted by wm07

Need more mods on the driver though.

Amen brother!

[ap0kalypse]

my STU setup:
05 STi
K&N Typhoon
Helix Catted DP and HKS Hi-Power catback
no name brand coilover (ride height is about 1.5" lower than stock), Perrin adjustable RSB (at the lower setting currently)
Waiting on tires to get alignment done
Stock BBS with stock tires

Follow up questions.
I see that a lot of you guys are running 245/45/17 RT-615 with stock STi BBS or aftermarket 17x8 rims. Does anybody have any rubbing issues? Or has everybody rolled their fenders. My car is a daily driver (probably a lot your cars as well). I want to get some RT-615 in 245/45 for my stock bbs then get an alignment. Also, what is a good alignment setup for autoX, track & daily driving all together? Sorry for the noob questions.

[bdi]

I want to bump this back up and see if anyone has changed or fined tuned there setup so far this season.

My setup is as follows:

1. Engine: K&N typhoon intake...the rest stock
2. Exhaust: Stock
3. Suspension: Zeal V6 Coilovers (10k/8k). Whiteline 24mm adj. fsb with stock endlinks. Perrin adj rsb with perrin endlinks. All sways currently set to softest settings. STi replica rear strut tower bar.
4. Alignment: Front -1.6 camber, 0 toe. Rear -1.5 camber, 0 toe. That was the max I could get with the stock camber bolts and the Zeal camber plates.
5. Ride Height: Front = 14". Rear = 13.5". Plan on bring the front up a hair cause I am getting rubbing with the 615's in 245/45.
6. Tires: 615's in 245/45 on a 17x8 rota torque.
7. Brakes: Stock pads. SS brake line with super blue fluid.

Furture mods. Brake pads...maybe the Pagin Blues. Change the fsb to full stiff. Many hours behind the wheel.

Bring up the front a little. What are people that have 245/45's running for ride height in the front? Also what camber bolts are you guys running in order to get -3+ camber in the front?

Aiight thats it. Thanks to everyone who posted here. Def helped me out alot. Please post up any new setups or adjustments you have made so far this season.

[bdi]

Lets bump this back up and get some feedback on what people thought of their setups this year.
Spring rates?
Camber?
Etc?

[silver arrow]

Well, after 5 events on the RT615's I can say without a doubt that I learned nothing. My impression is that they would be great on a lighter car, but the STi is too heavy adn powerful and heats them up very fast. Not the tire for multi driver effort for sure. Advan or MX would be better for multi driver cars. I will probably buy the RT615's again because best tire for the price, but cool between every run on hot days. For the price, used RE070's are a good choice too.

My set up hasn't changed, but will be getting STU tune, intake, pulley, light battery over the winter.

[waktasz]

Originally Posted by silver arrow

Well, after 5 events on the RT615's I can say without a doubt that I learned nothing. My impression is that they would be great on a lighter car, but the STi is too heavy adn powerful and heats them up very fast. Not the tire for multi driver effort for sure. Advan or MX would be better for multi driver cars. I will probably buy the RT615's again because best tire for the price, but cool between every run on hot days. For the price, used RE070's are a good choice too.

My set up hasn't changed, but will be getting STU tune, intake, pulley, light battery over the winter.

I hate my MX's. I'm gonna ditch them in the spring after what will probably be like 3,000 miles.

As for the original question...

Gutted stock downpipe, stock midpipe, Prodrive muffler

Crucial Racing springs, IPD F/R swaybars, Tein Camber plates

Max neg camber and ??? toe settings. I had a shop align my car and install my camber plates (I'm lazy and they were cheap) but you get what you pay for and they put the plates on wrong. I fixed it myself but havn't had it realligned up front...tires are paying the price for it.

245/40-17 MX's on 17x8 Rota Revs.

[DrBiggly]

Originally Posted by silver arrow

Well, after 5 events on the RT615's I can say without a doubt that I learned nothing. My impression is that they would be great on a lighter car, but the STi is too heavy adn powerful and heats them up very fast. Not the tire for multi driver effort for sure. Advan or MX would be better for multi driver cars. I will probably buy the RT615's again because best tire for the price, but cool between every run on hot days. For the price, used RE070's are a good choice too.

My set up hasn't changed, but will be getting STU tune, intake, pulley, light battery over the winter.

Sprayer: $10

That's much easier to deal with. Honestly I believe that sprayers are basically mandatory on every tire with a multi-driver car, barring temps below about 40 degrees outside.

-Biggly

[SammyRex]

Originally Posted by DrBiggly

Sprayer: $10

That's much easier to deal with. Honestly I believe that sprayers are basically mandatory on every tire with a multi-driver car, barring temps below about 40 degrees outside.

-Biggly

Can you give a link for sprayer product?
I have seen several some people bring the bottles in events, but I dont know where
to get them.
Are they spraying water or some coolant that cools faster than water?

Thanks,

Sammy

[waktasz]

Home depot in the garden section. It's just water.

[DrBiggly]

Originally Posted by SammyRex

Can you give a link for sprayer product?
I have seen several some people bring the bottles in events, but I dont know where
to get them.
Are they spraying water or some coolant that cools faster than water?

Thanks,

Sammy

Garden section of Sears/Home Depot/Lowe's/whatever you choose. Any garden type sprayer. Only water; nothing else would be a good idea. If you have ice to go in there, dump it in too.

Seriously don't just ditch a whole set of tires when your issues can be solved by a $10 bottle and some water.

-Biggly

[SammyRex]

Thanks for Waktasz and DrBiggly.
I will go get one today .
I did also feel my 615's lose its grip after first 3 runs.
Hopefully the spray can solve this issues with ease.
But even without the spary, my new RT-615 is far superior
to my previous set of eagle F1 GSD's, they gets hot so easily
and squeak like pig every time in the corner during AX .

Sammy

[SammyRex]

Originally Posted by silver arrow
Well, after 5 events on the RT615's I can say without a doubt that I learned nothing. My impression is that they would be great on a lighter car, but the STi is too heavy adn powerful and heats them up very fast. Not the tire for multi driver effort for sure. Advan or MX would be better for multi driver cars. I will probably buy the RT615's again because best tire for the price, but cool between every run on hot days. For the price, used RE070's are a good choice too.

My set up hasn't changed, but will be getting STU tune, intake, pulley, light battery over the winter.

Can you explain more about what you mean by " you learn nothing from RT615"?
Do you mean they are too heavy? heating up too fast? or...?
So far, I am pretty happy with them. BTW, mine is 235/40/17
on 8" ultraleggra.
What is the best pressure for 615's for the grip (regardless of suspension setup)?

Sammy

[DrBiggly]

Sammy,
Are you bleeding off the pressure once they heat up as well? The pressure buildup from the heat (PV=nRT if I remember right) will also cause additional traction loss. Keep an eye on the pressures as well as the temps. Check temps with your hand when it comes back; note that one side will sometimes be hotter than the other depending upon the course. You can also use temps as a measure of if you are overdriving the car too much once you get used to how warm they should be for a certain length course, # of turns, etc.

-Biggly

[silver arrow]

Originally Posted by SammyRex

Originally Posted by silver arrow
Well, after 5 events on the RT615's I can say without a doubt that I learned nothing. My impression is that they would be great on a lighter car, but the STi is too heavy adn powerful and heats them up very fast. Not the tire for multi driver effort for sure. Advan or MX would be better for multi driver cars. I will probably buy the RT615's again because best tire for the price, but cool between every run on hot days. For the price, used RE070's are a good choice too.

My set up hasn't changed, but will be getting STU tune, intake, pulley, light battery over the winter.

Can you explain more about what you mean by " you learn nothing from RT615"?
Do you mean they are too heavy? heating up too fast? or...?
So far, I am pretty happy with them. BTW, mine is 235/40/17
on 8" ultraleggra.
What is the best pressure for 615's for the grip (regardless of suspension setup)?

Sammy

I had hoped to run against some guys that I regularly run with to how they compared directly to the RE070. I use the RE070 as a reference for all tires. Only problem is we all switched tires at the same time and the other guy I was judging gains and losses with got tuned. They are better on the street and they seem to have more grip and with lots of neg camber, they like lower pressures than the RE070. I do spray them after the 2nd run and every run after. I run 38psi fr / 34-40 psi in rear but I have -3 deg camber in front so it might be different for you.

[SammyRex]

Thanks DrBiggly, I did measure the tire pressure after each run.
I also notice that sometimes the tire temperature on one side is
different from another depends on which direction of turns goes
harder or more.
I do adjust the tire pressure to the level I want to after each run.
But, even at the same pressure, the temperature is always different.
Which yields the differences in "grip". As a matter of fact that every tire
depends on their formulated compound, optimal operation temperature
always different. Some can operate at higher temperature than another.
I can sense RT615's does loss its grip when heated up to
certain temperature, but its just not as dramastic as Goodyear Eagle F1
GSD3s. In my opinion, GSD3 is "perfect" for normal driver, but when we are
into the competetive sport, such as AX, its just not good enough. This is
only my 0.01 cents..... I would really like to know who has very good
experience with GSD3 in AX..


Sammy

[z3coupe]

Originally Posted by SammyRex

Thanks DrBiggly, I did measure the tire pressure after each run.
I also notice that sometimes the tire temperature on one side is
different from another depends on which direction of turns goes
harder or more.
I do adjust the tire pressure to the level I want to after each run.
But, even at the same pressure, the temperature is always different.

Yes, it could be that you turn one way more than the other out on the course - but ONE thing everyone seems to overlook, is the SUN. Yes, that nice yellow ball in the sky that allows us to go out and play. But it also causes a problem too. You see, while you are out on the course working, or you are walking around or chatting with friends under a nice cool tent - your CAR is out under the hot sun. And unless you are smart enough to move your car from time to time, the sun is beating down one the same 2 tires for hours on end. You might have started out with a certain pressure (cold) when you left home, but all the time spent driving to the event, and the time the car is parked (and there might even be an effect while waiting in line for your next run), the sun is cooking your tires. I have found that after having the car sit in the same position for a few hours, the sunny side could be up by anywhere of 2-5 psi from the side in the shadow. Another thought, is how much you weigh? If you find the driver's side is always hotter and higher in psi - it could be due to more stress placed on that side because of you. But then on the other hand, it might be a good idea to HAVE a pound or two higher on your side of the car to compensate for you being in it.

Now of course, when you adjust the pressures all the time at the event, just remember one thing - check them later at night after your car had a few hours to cool down with no sun on them. Reason being, after all I talked about above, you have now ended up setting one side a few psi lower than the other due to the differences in termps.

Hope this helps

[SammyRex]

I was also aware of the sun light effect. The side under the sun definitely
raise the temperature noticably. But there was nothing I can do about it.
So, the best I could do is to maintain the constant pressure on both side.
I dont know how to make the grip even, when there is a temperature
difference on each side . Should I lower the pressure on
higher temperature side or raise the pressure on lower temperature side?
Or just cover the tires .

Sammy

[z3coupe]

Originally Posted by SammyRex

I was also aware of the sun light effect. The side under the sun definitely
raise the temperature noticably. But there was nothing I can do about it.
So, the best I could do is to maintain the constant pressure on both side.
I dont know how to make the grip even, when there is a temperature
difference on each side . Should I lower the pressure on
higher temperature side or raise the pressure on lower temperature side?
Or just cover the tires .

Sammy

It is always easier and FASTER (specially when rushing to the line, or in the line waiting for the next run) to let air OUT of the tires, than using a compressor or carrying a bottle around with you all over the place. So I start out cold at home, higher than I need.

[bdi]

Originally Posted by z3coupe

It is always easier and FASTER (specially when rushing to the line, or in the line waiting for the next run) to let air OUT of the tires, than using a compressor or carrying a bottle around with you all over the place. So I start out cold at home, higher than I need.

So true!

[silver arrow]

I've been doing that also. Set high the night before and bleed down at the track and between runs. Still helpful to have an air tank though. Last week it was so cool that no one was getting any pressure rise in the tires and I wanted 1-2 psi more in the rear after my first run. Without a tank or pump you are SOL. If you are really cool, get tires filled with nitrogen and your tank too.

[silver arrow]

1. Engine: Stock
2. Exhaust: Scooby Sport shorty DP wrapped. Prodrive axleback.
3. Suspension: Tein Flex 12k/10k set to 1 front, 5 rear. Strano 32mm FSB
4. Alignment: Front Max neg camber on tein tops. 0 toe front and rear. -1.5 camber rear (planning on changing toe soon and experimenting with more neg camber in the rear.)
5. Tires: RE070 225/45 17 40 psi front, 38 psi rear(Azenis RT-615- 245/45 17 on order)
6. Brakes:stock


Thread back from the dead. How did everyone do in STU this year? What changes are you planning?

I am planning on adding lightened pulley, STU protune, undecided brakepads, light battery, new alignment and corner balance over the winter. Maybe 12k springs rear

[JPotter]

I hope to get the coil-overs sorted out before the season starts.

1. Engine: Stock
2. Exhaust: Cobb Turboback
3. Suspension: Not sure about this but was pondering 7k/8k coilovers, (yes 7k/8k) to go along with my Strano FSB and stock rear bar. Not sure why nobody does this, am I missing something?

4. Alignment: -2.5F/-1.25R 0 toe
5. Tires: Using up the last of my RE070 225/45 17 44 psi front, 42 psi rear. Then onto some 245s of whatever I can get hooked up with.
6. Brakes:stock

I'm not looking to win any championships, just want to be competitive.

[Banannie]

Hi all,

Some of you may know me, some may not - I'm Annie, and yes, I am a car addict. I just bought car #37 that I've owned in my lifetime , and it's a 2007 STI.

I'd say I'm a pretty good autocrosser and have a pair of National Championships and a ProSolo Championship - but all in stock classes!

I'm again co-driving with friends in a stock class this year for national events, but thought it would be fun to toss the daily driver around occasionally in STU locally (especially in the rain, and unfortunately it does rain in Seattle!). But I don't really know where to start, as there are SO many more options for the car than in stock.

I want the best, fastest parts. Period. I'm looking at people who are competing nationally for assistance, as I *am* competitive! At the same time, it is my daily driver so I'm not going all out on it - I'm keeping the stock seats and for now, the stock EM. I just can't void the warranty quite yet.

So, you super fast guys in STU - what's the hot setup? I'm looking at suspension first, and a good cat-back that is good when I do the TBE and EM. I'll probably install most of it in the next few months after the risk of snow fades away...

If you don't want to divulge all your secrets here to all, feel free to PM me or e-mail me at annie_bauer AT yahoo DOT com.

Thanks!

Annie Bauer
'07 SWP STI