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Old 03-30-2009, 04:52 PM   #1
DrDRum
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Question How tough to do a clutch job on a suby?

First...OT is the only forum here.

Now that that's outta' the way...you guys answer quicker than a search, and I searched leggygt.com and didn't really find what I wanted.

Das Car: 05+ Outback XT

This would be by far the toughest car work I've ever done. I'm very shade-tree-ey. Alternator, oil change, new radiator, brake pad and rotor change...that's about all I've done. I didn't think any of those were tough (obviously).

Is this something I should do (with the help of another uneducated pair of hands...prolly my dad or BFF, El Heffe'), or should I throw away the $500 for someone to do it?

Where's this on a difficulty scale? 1=replacing a headlight, 10=replacing a gear.
How much should it cost me?
How long should I schedule...is a weekend enough (esp if I need to drill flywheel bolts out)?

DRum
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Last edited by DrDRum; 03-30-2009 at 05:09 PM.
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Old 03-30-2009, 04:53 PM   #2
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Geez - new clutch already on an 05?
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Old 03-30-2009, 04:55 PM   #3
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I would pull the motor and tranny out together and then do the clutch if you're attempting to do it by yourself with no lift.
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Old 03-30-2009, 04:57 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rice h8r View Post
I would pull the motor and tranny out together and then do the clutch if you're attempting to do it by yourself with no lift.
this.
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Old 03-30-2009, 04:59 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rice h8r View Post
I would pull the motor and tranny out together and then do the clutch if you're attempting to do it by yourself with no lift.
Obviously ignore this. Easiest way to do it if you don't have a car lift, is to pull the engine out. Leave the transmission in the car.
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Old 03-30-2009, 04:59 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpicheva View Post
Geez - new clutch already on an 05?
55k. A buncha' clutch shudder lately. Been getting slowly worse.
Though, I'm not convinced it needs a clutch yet...I'm educating myself for "the worst".

Yeah, no lift (someday), so I figure I'd have'ta rent an engine hoist, and do the "pull the engine" thing, which is no small task. My thought is its just a bunch of little steps to get the engine out, take it slow and be methodical. Also, plenty I could eff up along the way...

Its all the same, mechanically, as a LGT, right? I "acquired" a copy of the LGT service manual.

DRum
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Old 03-30-2009, 05:00 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drink View Post
Obviously ignore this. Easiest way to do it if you don't have a car lift, is to pull the engine out. Leave the transmission in the car.
I think he means a transmission lift, no?
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Old 03-30-2009, 05:00 PM   #8
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Quote:
esp if I need to drill flywheel bolts out)?
wat??....you can do it in a day, but here is what I would do....take the tranny out.....send the flywheel to be machined......then reinstall the next day...DO NOT USE THE TRANNY BOLTS TO SUCK THE TRANNY AGAINST THE MOTOR!
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Old 03-30-2009, 05:01 PM   #9
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:facepalm: Yea just pull out the motor by itself and then place something underneath to support the tranny.
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Old 03-30-2009, 05:02 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt A View Post
I think he means a transmission lift, no?
Nah, I think he means a lift-lift (like raise car in the air 6ft off the ground).

Pull motor out w/ engine hoist, do work, drop motor back in.
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Old 03-30-2009, 05:02 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rice h8r View Post
:facepalm: Yea just pull out the motor by itself and then place something underneath to support the tranny.
You mean, let it rest on the cross member.
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Old 03-30-2009, 05:04 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt A View Post
I think he means a transmission lift, no?
I don't know what he means, and neither does he. There is no reason to remove the engine along with the transmission for a simple clutch replacement.
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Old 03-30-2009, 05:05 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drink View Post
You mean, let it rest on the cross member.
Really...neither of the three threads I found at leggt.com mentioned that.
I think you can leave it in the tranny mounts, no?

PS. I don't have access to a CAR lift. You can rent engine hoists, can'tcha'?

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Old 03-30-2009, 05:08 PM   #14
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The only thing you should even touch on the transmission is the 6 bolts and 2 nuts that fasten the bellhousing to the engine.

You can rent one for about 75 bucks or just pick up a used on off craigslist for that too.
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Old 03-30-2009, 05:13 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrDRum View Post
55k. A buncha' clutch shudder lately. Been getting slowly worse.
Though, I'm not convinced it needs a clutch yet...I'm educating myself for "the worst".

Yeah, no lift (someday), so I figure I'd have'ta rent an engine hoist, and do the "pull the engine" thing, which is no small task. My thought is its just a bunch of little steps to get the engine out, take it slow and be methodical. Also, plenty I could eff up along the way...

Its all the same, mechanically, as a LGT, right? I "acquired" a copy of the LGT service manual.

DRum
What kind of mileage do you have? I had some shudder earlier this winter, got worse then started to go away. I have an '06 but I've got 70k on the clock and my clutch is still plenty strong.
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Old 03-30-2009, 05:13 PM   #16
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^^^ 55k. Did'ja ever find out what caused your shudder?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drink View Post
The only thing you should even touch on the transmission is the 6 bolts and 2 nuts that fasten the bellhousing to the engine.

You can rent one for about 75 bucks or just pick up a used on off craigslist for that too.
I should buy one anyways...I plan on getting deeping into a car, and its better than labor costs for someone to do it. I always figured they were more expensive used. Cool.

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Old 03-30-2009, 05:18 PM   #17
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My search results, so far...

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89485
http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showt...ght=clutch+job
http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showt...ght=clutch+job

Here's the directions I think I'd be following...
Quote:
Originally Posted by rony View Post
I have had my clutch in an out of my car more times than I care to explain. All times, we used a engine lift and simply pulled the engine forward and away from the tranny.



1. Remove the battery and air box.



2. Remove the radiator from the car, drain plug is a little plastic plug on the passenger side. 2 bolts and brackets on the top, and upper and lower hoses. Coolant will continue to drain from the lower hose.



3. Remove the intercooler and put a paper towel in the turbo opening (remember to remove this when you reinstall the intercooler).



4. Disconnect the main engine electrical connection. This connector is opposite of how you think it would work. Use a flat head screw driver to release the lever and pull it up. Then pull the connector that is farthest from the engine. Then use the screw driver to release the engine side connector from the bracket.



5. Remove the lower engine mount nuts, 2 total. You do not have to remove the lower cover, but it is highly suggested to get the O2 sensor out.



6. Remove the front 02 sensor from the header. (To avoid bumping it when you are wrestling the engine out).



7. Remove the Down Pipe and heat shield if needed.



8. Remove the dog-bone, just the bolt on the firewall.



9. Remove the alternator.



10. Remove the A/C compressor and then remove the bracket from it and reinstall it on the engine block, you need it for the engine lift. Fold hoses and all over to where the battery was. Secure with a bungee cord if needed.



11. Remove all 3 fuel lines and make sure you are ready for the fuel that will come out. Also, make sure you mark or note the location of each connection.



12. Attached the engine lift to the back engine lift point, it's under the where the intercooler was, and attach it to the A/C bracket. Balance front to back and side to side is important.



13. Slightly lift the engine and remove the bolts from the transmission top to bottom. 6 total bolts, remember that the 2 lower ones are the long ones.



14. You will probably have to use a putty knife to break the tranny from the engine. You will have to wiggle the engine back and forth to pull it off the tranny.



Once you have the engine pulled away from the tranny, you will have about 6 inches to work in.



Reverse the steps to put it back together. It can be a challenge to get the tranny back on the engine. It's suggested that you get it on the studs first, then use the long bolts on the top bolt location to help pull the tranny to the engine.



That is the basic steps, I suggest you do not attempt this alone. You will need help.



I can complete a full clutch replacement in about 3 hours.
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Old 03-30-2009, 05:18 PM   #18
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I think I picked up my last lift, new, from farm and fleet. I spent about $150 for the lift and a leveler. Try to find a leveler, it will make putting it back together much easier .
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Old 03-30-2009, 05:20 PM   #19
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I did mine with the car on jack stands, and a small jack on wheels to get the tranny out. I imagine the procedure is not that different on an outback.
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Old 03-30-2009, 05:21 PM   #20
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I have a lift, chain hoist attached to said lift, air tools, and can probably round up some more help if you want to make a drive to this side of the state. I'm not in need of a clutch yet, but with 117k miles on mine I might just replace it anyway. Errrr...clutch replacement day
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Old 03-30-2009, 05:24 PM   #21
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I may actually take you up on the Brad.
It's not bad yet, so I'm just in the research phase...if I do need one, we'll make a weekend out of it.

Sorry we couldn't get together a couple weeks back. We'll make it work next time

Thanks for the offer.

DRum
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Old 03-30-2009, 05:26 PM   #22
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Search my thread and read the information I merged from two people who use the pull motor method. I pulled the motor, sorta.

YOU WILL have limited room to work with. I do think however, either way is the same difficulty and mess level. There are other threads concerning just sliding stuff apart and dropping nothing to get enough room, but I cant see how this can be done easily. 500 labor? If you show up with parts, this should be a 300-350 dollar job (and tip). Its harder to get my fat hands in between comfortably and it will be much easier to remove bolts, etc with the trans out.

If you do it yourself as a firsttimer, plan a weekend. Dont believe the people who claim its a 3 hour job. Unless you've done this before, it will take you some time to figure things out. I did mine all by myself.

If you're going to pull the engine, make sure you've got the correct hardware to mount the lift spots so you're not spending half your time looking for things to actually do the job you intended to do.
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Old 03-30-2009, 05:28 PM   #23
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btw, you dont need to remove any of the accessory units on the front of the motor. It wont matter if you do because it wont make that much room. There should be enough play and stretch in the current hoses to move with the motor.
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Old 03-30-2009, 05:34 PM   #24
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if you have a spare jack, my route is to unbolt the exhaust, driveshaft and front axles, use the spare jack to raise the front of the motor as much as you can, unbolt the tranny, and slide it back (and out). I've never had reason to try to do it without dropping the tranny, and with one helper and you not being a *****, that's not too difficult a job. A tranny jack is nice, but balls and a regular floor jack will cut it. I dunno if it's the "best" way, but it works. Just be careful that you align the input shaft carefully when you put it all back together, because the splines it feeds into in the clutch disk are aluminum.
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Old 03-30-2009, 05:36 PM   #25
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car on jack stands.

pull driveshaft

slide tranny back and rest on front subframe

change clutch from above

Benchpress back into place

Put back together.
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