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Old 02-07-2017, 11:07 PM   #1
Romy
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Default BH Outback STI Swap

Background:

I've wanted to do this for a long time. I've had 2baru (my 2nd green BH Outback) since 2012 and in the back of my mind I've always wanted to turbo swap it. (I'm lazy and don't want to write 'Outback' so I'll refer to it as a BH, as that's the model code - technically, with an STI swap it'll be a never-made BH7; also, when searching for JDM parts, using 'BH' or 'BH5' helps quite a bit.) When I was deployed to Iraq/Kuwait in 03-04, I read car mag after car mag about the STI and kept thinking it would be sweet to get one after deployment. Well, that just didn't happen; not so practical to spend most of what you saved on a car.

Fast forward to my post graduate school, decent paying engineering job self, with my daily driver cresting 300k (mind you I have like 7 cars and 5 are running projects...but that's another story). In 2baru, I had replaced the 5mt with a $140 junkyard 5mt which lasted a year. Luckily I fixed the old 5mt in the interim and swapped it back in. I replaced the EJ25 at 240k but it's now leaking oil from the rear main like a bitch. The trans mounts are shot, the engine mounts too. I've blown up two driveshafts in as many years (towing things like dual sports does that). It overheats when towing sometimes. It's an old car. So on the last large roadtrip, my wife an I experience one of those blown drive shaft, leaking engine moments. We have aircooled VWs so breaking down is not a big deal, just a bit surprising on the reliable car. The question becomes, do we get rid of 2baru for a new 'baru (or Toyota 4runner), or fix 2baru? My wife likes 2baru. Happy wife, happy life

So began the decision process. JDM STI? USDM STI? Save some cash and EJ205 it? Well, USDM STI won (04 to be specific). I picked one up off this site from Jon at Grizzly Garage. Also came with an intercooler, bpv, 04 STI ECU, fuel pump controller, boost solenoid, MAF, new turbo w/ heatshield, and fuel pump. No exhaust though, but I just picked up a downpipe and headers/uppipe so that's solved.

I use forums quite a bit to research stuff so once I finish, I'll post a list of all the parts I ordered/used. Mechanically, this swap isn't hard. The Baja Turbo is basically a BE/BH chassis anyway, so my thought was initially to get a wrecked Baja and go from there. Well, that's not a super common thing. So instead, I ordered a bunch of parts off ebay as well as new stuff, and scrounged the junkyard.

So here's where I started:



Ready to pull out:



And we're clear!

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Last edited by Romy; 03-11-2017 at 09:41 PM.
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Old 02-07-2017, 11:08 PM   #2
Romy
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Electrical Reserved

When I refer to wires of two colors, the first color is the main wire insulation color, the second is the stripe color. When I refer to connectors/pins, I use the connector from the wiring diagram followed by a slash and the pin. I'll use the Integrated Module blue connector and pin 10 as an example - this would be B281/10.

Fog Lights:

The fog lights always annoyed me that you had to have the headlights on for them to work. And that they turned off when the brights were on. Bur really, this is a very simple fix. On the fog light switch there are 6 pins. Pins 3 and 5 are the actual switch to turn the fog lights on/off (the black/purple wire is pin 3 and the yellow/black wire is pin 5). Pins 1 and 6 (white/black and black) are the indicator light in the switch to show the fog lights are on; pin 6 (black) goes to ground and pin 1 (white/black) taps into the fog light power that goes directly to the bulbs. The other two pins on the switch - 2 & 4 (black/white & purple) are your illumination wires). Pin 5 runs to the daytime running light module and to the headlight switch - it's essentially a switched ground in the headlight switch. So when you turn your low beams on, you ground out a wire on the daytime running light module and the fog light switch.

Here's a pic:


The simple fix to have your fog lights on whenever you want (regardless of headlight position) is to snip the pin 5 yellow/black wire and connect it to the pin 6 black wire to provide constant ground all the time. However, do not simply connect the yellow/black to the black wire - the daytime running light module will think the headlights are then on all the time and your running lights will likely turn off.



The yellow/black is a slightly larger gauge than the black, however it should be ok. If not, I'll update this and likely instead tap into the diode that's present down line - the yellow/black can be extracted from the diode and ran to a larger ground if need be. The diode is on the bulkhead harness under the dash on the same 'branch' as the daytime running light module, near the 'tree'.



Integrated Module:

The integrated module is used on the BT is the same as the BH one. The BT doesn't have a rear hatch, or a front wiper deicer, which are the only real differences in wiring going to it. There are two connectors on the integrated module; a blue one (B281 - 16 pins) and a gray one (B280 - 20 pins). On the blue connector, pin 10 is missing (B281/10) as is pin 1 on the gray connector (B280/1) on the BT harness. For the wiper deicer to work, pins B281/10, B281/13, B281/4, and B280/1 all need to be connected. Two of these (B281/4 & B281/13) are grounds, however, they directly connect to the wiper deicer plug (B177/1 specifically) which has to be swapped over.

Also, if using a JDM black face gauge, two (well three) wires need to be tapped into from the integrated module / headlight switch (which has a 17 pin connector: B71). The connections are: B280/18-B71/11 (blue), B280/16-B71/12 (Green/Yellow), and B71/10 (black) which is a ground. I don't know if the ground is necessary to tap into, but I'm going to break it from ground and route to the black face gauge so that the black face gauge is reading the same reference voltage as the headlight switch. On cars with a black face gauge stock, these wires run to the SMJ, ports O6 (blue), P6 (Green/Yellow), and N6 (Black). If you look at a EDM or JDM wiring diagram, note that the colors are different than USDM cars. On an EDM/JDM car two of the three wires are different colors - the Green/Yellow wire is Green, the Black wire is Blue/Green (and the Blue is Blue).

Last edited by Romy; 05-14-2017 at 12:17 PM.
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Old 02-07-2017, 11:08 PM   #3
Romy
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Dash Reserved

See the previous post for nomenclature.

I decided to maintain the capability for Auto A/C as well as Manual A/C. I'll attempt to write this for only manual A/C and leave the Auto A/C as a separate post.

The BT comes with the optional 'Sport Lights' switch and has 'Cargo Lights' in place of a Wiper Deicer (on the dash and on the relay panel under the in-compartment fuse block). The sport light switch mounds under the radio in a BT-specific cubby. I plan to use both the sport light switch and the cargo light switch to activate a roof rack mounted light bar and roof rack mounted side lights respectively, so I picked up a JDM/EDM 3 switch cubby. It's for RHD (there's technically a LHD version as well) but all that practically means is that the switches will be closer to the passenger side. It's fine as my phone or iPod will fit in the cubby and will be more often accessed anyhow. I wish they made a two switch cubby, but I digress...

Last edited by Romy; 03-11-2017 at 11:03 PM.
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Old 02-07-2017, 11:08 PM   #4
Romy
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Trans swap:

This part was extraordinarily easy compared to the wiring harness fun I've been sorting through.

I sourced a JDM Forester trans and rear diff from ebay; it showed up to my house on a nicely packed pallet complete with flywheel/clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing. The trans code is TY755VB1AA - see https://www.rallispec.com/downloads/...art_Public.pdf

The ratios are the same as the BT but the trans is easier to find than a BT trans. My old trans was dying; I had replaced an internal bearing a couple years ago, but another one was starting to go now. And the budget didn't allow for a 6 speed; honestly I think a 5 speed is fine and having to use hybrid axles makes it not easily repairable in case something goes bang far from home (it's happened in the past).

The JDM Forester transmission came with some kind of merged wiring connector; it brings the neutral switch, the reverse switch, and the speed sensor all into one connector near the dipstick (I need to throw a pic in of this). Apparently, this is also what the BT has, as it plugs right into the BT harness. If you're considering this kind of swap, it would be worth noting that you'll need that merging harness for your swap.

I probably should have taken more pictures of this, but swapping the transmission is very straight forward. Pull out the old trans. Swap to a BT engine cradle / crossmember because now's a good time. Put the new trans in. Consume celebratory beer.

While I was at it I put in some Kartek shift bushings (for the 02-07 WRX). 300k makes soft rubber very mushy. There are two bushings that need changing; one on the trans end which is cylindrical, and on on the body end, which the shifter shaft sits in. The block bushing on the body end which the shifter shaft sits in seems to push the shifter up a bit so I may have to revert to the old bushing and choppy chop weld that mount to fit better. It's more than likely because it's meant for a WRX not a BH (despite being shown to fit for Legacy GTs). I'll update as needed.

Now to get some pics in here...

Last edited by Romy; 03-07-2017 at 11:13 PM.
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Old 02-07-2017, 11:09 PM   #5
Romy
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The parts list.

I'll edit this until the swap is completed and upload an excel file (or similar) with all the part numbers, but here's some general commentary. Sometime between 2002 and 2004 (I believe it it was 2003 models) Subaru decided to change their electrical connectors. They also eliminated the super multiple junction (SMJ) as the connector for the engine room harness to passenger compartment around this time, as well as swapped to something called the 'Integrated Module' to combine functionality of several independent modules into one (such as wiper, illumination, etc.). What this meant for me with an 02 Outback but 04+ Baja Turbo (BT) and STI parts was that simply merging harnesses was going to be hugely difficult. What made more sense was just getting BT bulkhead harnesses (engine and compartment - see the factory service manual for terminology). But due to the intervening year connector change, this also meant the BT harness wouldn't plug up nicely to my 02 rear harness. So basically, I needed at least a rear harness from a more modern BH and front harnesses from a BT, and some merging skills. But it's not quite that simple either - 04 was the only year that any BH had a fuel pump controller, and it was only for H6 cars. Which meant I needed a 04 H6 donor car. Luckily the junkyard has/had one. Slightly annoyingly, there are two wiring harness pass through ports on the firewall for the BH while the BT only uses one. Some body plug (which I have yet to locate a P/N for) goes in the other hole.

Now remember that connector change I mentioned? Well, turns out the rear doors and rear hatch all had different connectors (front doors are the same, but the driver's side has an extra connector on later cars for a buzzer). Also the G-switch under the center console, the charcoal canister vents/solenoids/harness, the fuel pump, the A/C pressure switch that goes on the liquid tank on the passenger strut tower (4 pin is needed, not 2 pin as the 02 had), the radiator fans, and the windshield wiper motor. So generally, if you plan to do a swap like this, it would be best to start with an 04 H6...and a BT donor...and an STI donor (I can't afford three donor cars, hence my junkyard/ebay route).

There are a few other parts that the BT uses while the BH does not. BT's are drive by wire (like the STI) and so the drive by wire pedal is needed, as is the mounting bracket; the former is not hard to find and can be bought new, the latter is NLA from the dealer so I had to find a used one. Because it's drive by wire, the cruise control module and mechanism goes away (it sits about where the turbo does). And of course the pedal cable hole needs to get plugged.

The air cleaner box is the same as the WRX; the baffle box (or whatever) that goes behind the fender is the same as any H6 car, as is the cold air scoop.

BT fans are the same connector as STI fans - you can't easily reuse Outback fans. I'm not sure (but I'd guess) that 03/04 BH fans are the same as BT.

Impreza GC lower control arms (LCAs) are the same as BH arms (and B4 arms for that matter). B4 rear upper control arms were aluminum. And BP Spec B trailing arms will also fit with some splicing of ABS connectors (covered on some forum somewhere, I think the legacy GT one). This doesn't relate to the motor swap, but I'm doing it anyhow.

A BT engine cradle (also called K-member) is needed to allow for the uppipe (or a cut/reweld on the BH one). An STI cradle will fit but will require STI arms, sway bar, etc. I already had aluminum LCAs so went with a BT cradle. Although a faster ratio steering box might be interesting, the car is meant more for camping/commuting/trips so I don't care all that much.

The STI (and BT) power steering pump is in a different location than the EJ25 one, so BT power steering lines are needed.

The intercooler sits right about where one of the A/C lines goes, so a BT A/C line is needed.

The boost control solenoid is the same as the WRX/STI, however the mounting bracket is BT specific and NLA. Like the accelerator pedal mount, junkyarding is needed.

The BT swaybar is different than the BH (or BE) swaybar.

The BT dash wiring allows 'Sport Activity Lights'; the switch harness is prewired into the harness. I'm adding a three switch panel and reducing the under-radio cubby size to do so. The p/n is 66208AE310; it's a RHD thing but supposedly there's a LHD version too (66208AE330). I got a cubby off of ebay with several switches in it. I'm adding roof lights to the rack I have as well as side rack lights (helpful at night when setting up camp) and will have a third spot for something else; intercooler spray perhaps, or just more lights.

-----

I also decided to swap in the auto climate control module. I snagged just about every harness I could from the junkyard so I'll post up how to wire that junk as well as the parts list when I finish it.

Last edited by Romy; 02-26-2017 at 01:01 AM.
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Old 02-07-2017, 11:09 PM   #6
Romy
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Auto Climate Control Reserved.

In retrospect, the swap would go much faster without trying to merge in Auto A/C. The fun part about the Auto A/C is that there is no real wiring diagram for a manual car with Auto A/C for the USDM; I did find an EUDM manual which helped. Essentially, and not just limited to Auto A/C but in the whole swap, if you see the wiring diagram showing a wire goes to the 'Trans control module' it instead means you need to wire it to the vehicle speed sensor on a manual car.

There are several sets of wires that are shared between the manual A/C and the Auto A/C; however, there are also many wires are unique to each system. You really need a wiring diagram to do this swap as you need to merge both instrument panel harnesses and bulkhead harnesses. I can't see doing this without having the harnesses out of the car, but if you're slick, you could probably do the bulkhead one with it in the car. And perhaps just swap to an Auto A/C dash harness and ignore the unused transmission connections (this would need to be verified; not sure if it'd work). I chose to retain the capability to swap back to manual A/C so I merged harnesses.

Several parts are needed to do the swap; the junkyard is a good source of parts. On the whole, you'll need:

Auto A/C Module w/ the in vehicle temp sensor (get the screws too)
Sunload Sensor & Defog Vent (on the passenger side dash - for the love of god don't cut the dash harness; you'll need it also)
Blower motor resistor (auto A/C is 3 pin, manual is 4 pin - get the felt washer too)
Evap Thermo Switch (wedged into the A/C heat exchanger - Auto A/C is 2 pin; manual is 3 pin)
Air Mix Actuator and lever arm (on the bottom of the heater core housing - the manual A/C version has a cable attached between it and the mode panel on the dash)
Dash harness
Bulkhead harness

Merging the dash harness is pretty straight forward. Look at the wiring diagram, and the wiring pinout I upload later, and get soldering. The bulkhead harness isn't too bad either, but the annoying part is the 'Mode Actuator' - it's near the gas pedal (I'll upload a pic). The wires which go to it differ in order between the Auto and Manual A/C. Which means you need to swap pins. Or in my case, have two connectors so that I can always swap back to manual A/C if I don't care for Auto.

More to come...

Last edited by Romy; 03-07-2017 at 11:31 PM.
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Old 02-07-2017, 11:10 PM   #7
Romy
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Reserved for other junk I forgot about.
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Old 02-25-2017, 08:38 PM   #8
RustWagon
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Following! I'd love to see more progress on this.
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Old 03-14-2017, 01:57 AM   #9
suberdave
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if you have any questions shoot me a PM i have done STI swaps into a few different cars, including my BH legacy.

Link to LegacyGT.com

Its a straight forward swap, not much different that an STI swap into an RS or any other Subaru for that matter.

Sticking the engine and trans in is easy, but i hope your good with wiring, that is where you will spend most of your time.

-=Suberdave=-
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Old 03-14-2017, 08:58 PM   #10
antnygee
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excited to see where this goes!
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:12 PM   #11
Romy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suberdave View Post

Sticking the engine and trans in is easy, but i hope your good with wiring, that is where you will spend most of your time.

-=Suberdave=-
www.suberdave.com
You're not kidding. Mechanically this is simple; electrically it's extremely time consuming. Adding auto a/c and extra lights has definitely incurred a lot of extra time as well.
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Old 03-16-2017, 09:35 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suberdave View Post
if you have any questions shoot me a PM i have done STI swaps into a few different cars, including my BH legacy.

Link to LegacyGT.com

Its a straight forward swap, not much different that an STI swap into an RS or any other Subaru for that matter.

Sticking the engine and trans in is easy, but i hope your good with wiring, that is where you will spend most of your time.

-=Suberdave=-
www.suberdave.com
Beautiful car, I'm quite jealous
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Old 05-14-2017, 11:51 AM   #13
Romy
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Well it's been a while so it's time to update.

I finished the harness a while ago. Then got a black face gauge from a JDM car and so need to tweak it a bit. Specifically, the black face gauge needs two wires (and a ground) from the dimmer switch. There's a very useful thread on it over at sl-i.net (http://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php...ack+face+gauge)

Here's a spare black face gauge I got:



It's an auto one, but since it's a spare, I don't really care. It'll allow me to play with soldering on LEDs and other components (in Japan, apparently the security feature isn't normal and so it's not populated). I have a manual one as well but it's currently disassembled...

Last weekend I put the engine in:




And...the engine is in with the exhaust all hooked up:



What's hard to see is the dump pipe and header. The dump pipe is from Cobb and the header is from Lachute. I had read anything but OEM dump pipes will hit the brace installed on BE/BH cars, but this used downpipe cost less than getting a Baja Turbo unit, so I risked it and it was worth it.
It came with a Swaintech coating on it which was nice. I also sent the Lachute headers to get coated. However, what sucks is that the downpipe has a frozen O2 port bolt on the top, so I have to pull it out and drill/tap it to install an EGT sensor.

Turns out that I also need a few more parts. Specifically, the low pressure hose from the power steering pump was wrong, the A/C compressor of the STI motor is different than that of the Outback (or Baja) and has a different electrical plug as well as high pressure side fitting, and the radiator fans of an STI have a different plug than that of an Outback (or Baja). So I put in another order for yet more stuff.

I also figured I'd swap fuel pumps from the stock NA Outback pump to something with more flow, in case I go crazy on stuff later. The DeatschWerks DW65c fits in place of the stock pump. Unfortunately, while I was taking the fuel lines off of the pump housing, I snapped one:



Needless to say I was pretty pissed. You can't buy just that part for an 02 Outback but you can get one for an 04+. This swap has made me realize how many silly little things switched at the 04 model year. I picked up a pump housing for an 04+ model year (p/n: 42029AE02A):




If you look closely, you'll notice the leftmost nipple is at a different angle to the one in my car. The 04+ change was to make that a 90 degree push-lock connector instead of a slip fit with a hose clamp. So I ordered the push lock line too (this swap is a nickle and dime fiesta).

The pump fits perfectly:

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Old 05-14-2017, 12:02 PM   #14
Romy
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Default Lower control arms, sway bar and links

I installed JDM lower control arms; they're from a GC Impreza which has the same lower arms as the BE/BH cars. At some point I'll get a set of BP rear trailing arms and put those on but for now that's a future purchase.

The K-member / engine cradle of a turbo BE/BH has clearances for the up pipes (JDM cars are twin turbo, so two up pipes). These clearances get in the way of the stock (or NA) sway bar. So...a Baja turbo sway bar is needed.

I also installed Moog 'problem solver' sway bar links, p/n K750049. They have grease fittings and are made of steel (beef-tek). The stock links would have been fine, but I never much cared for the single shear thing they had going on (one broke a couple years ago on a dirt road miles from home and the clanking noise was really annoying).



I did a great job of scuffing up the Swaintech-coated Lachute header during install; it's a pretty snug fit. The headers do sit kind of low but once the skid plate is back on though, it won't really matter as long as they clear it. Else I'll be modifying the skid plate...
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Old 05-15-2017, 07:47 AM   #15
Titter
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cool swap. always liked this chassis.

in for results
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Old 05-15-2017, 04:34 PM   #16
Dougbo9807
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Sweet, I am hoping to get going on my BH engine swap soon!
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Old 09-07-2017, 12:07 AM   #17
Romy
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Been a while again, but it's done now.



Everything I was worried about wiring-wise works (auto climate control, roof rack light switches, the odd Baja Turbo specific stop and turn module), and, so far, no CEL. The A/C isn't charged yet, but everything on the auto climate control module seems to do what it's supposed to; I'll update once it's charged. So far, I've driven it to work now a couple times and have ran some errands. It is so damn fun to drive; totally worth it. When the boost hits, it's just awesome. The H6 exhaust is completely quiet as well; I may try a BH5 Genome muffler at some point but for now, I'm happy. It drives like a German touring car; quiet but then: all the power. I have no idea why this isn't a normal thing for Subaru to do in all their cars. Beyond the obvious number difference, 300hp is in fact much greater than 165hp. Also, even when not on boost it has more power, so that's nice too.

Small things to wrap it up:

- 1 piece aluminum driveshaft (getting made now)
- Modify low pressure A/C line because it interferes with the strut bar and the STI intercooler makes it impossible to get the fill fitting on (also getting made now)
- Finish wiring the lights on the roof rack (I lost a damn pin so that's on order)
- Make the harnesses to put in the black face gauge (I have all the parts just have to commit)
- Fix the light that's out in the auto AC module (when I swap the black face meter)
- Paint that hood

At some point:

- JDM headlights or at least replacement USDM ones because no matter how many times I polish and 'seal' the lenses, it always blurs up again
- Considering a JDM WRX V7 steering wheel to match the red stitching shift knob
- 15" wheels with ATs once the 16" ATs need replacing.
- 05-09 Spec B rear trailing arms. I have aluminum front arms...might as well go with rear ones too.
- 05-09 Legacy GT rotors and calipers up front next time I need brakes. I put on stop tech pads this time around and I swear to **** they have warped the rotors or otherwise deposited gunk on them after about 10k miles. So bigger stock brakes with normal pads are in order.
- Swap the Genome boost gauge for a matching Prosport gauge. So far, not too impressed with the prosport oil pressure gauge, but the other two (a/f ratio and egt) are solid. And they match the black face cluster. Plus, the STI Genome gauges don't dim when you dim the rest of the lights and their green color is just a bit off of Subaru.
- Different head unit. I put a JVC KW-R925BTS in my 02 Impreza recently and it is such a huge upgrade over the stock head unit. Kind of sucks because I also added the rear cargo area 6x9 just now. But that leads to:
- Turn that rear cargo area 6x9 into a 10" sub. There's room I think, and it would just require getting a laser cut piece of metal and some rivnut kind of inserts. The 12" sub in a ported box really takes up a lot of room in the rear; my dog would be happier if it weren't there as would I when trying to sleep in the car.
- Merge an 04-05 STI scoop onto the stock Outback hood. The Baja Turbo hood really does **** to pull air through; the intercooler gets quite warm despite the 'lava' turbo blanket and Swaintech ceramic coating on the header/downpipe. Besides that, the BT scoop splitter and seal is way undersized; while sizing it appropriately would help, I just don't believe the scoop is high enough up to really direct air in. Boundary layer growth and all that.
- 6 Speed USDM trans. The 5 speed JDM Forester trans I bought at the beginning of this swap (and part of the motivation for the STI swap in the first place) pops out of 2nd occasionally. Unfortunately the swap took me past their 90 day window so I'm SOL. But that just means when it dies I'll swap in the rest of the STI drivetrain

I'll go back and update the previous threads with info as I organize it and before I forget it. And from here on out I'll just post updates. If anyone is interested in specifics, just post or PM me and I'll give you whatever help/advice I can. It is for sure a swap worth doing.
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Old 09-15-2017, 11:38 PM   #18
gc_coxen
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Have you found a good solution to implementing the 6MT? I'm curious how well this could work. To my knowledge, gearbox will bolt right up, but I'm unsure how the rear end would work with the r180 and different axles
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Old 09-22-2017, 09:26 AM   #19
gr8fulboater
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Default Ej208D twin turbo swap in a 2003 outback

Quote:
Originally Posted by suberdave View Post
if you have any questions shoot me a PM i have done STI swaps into a few different cars, including my BH legacy.

Link to LegacyGT.com

Its a straight forward swap, not much different that an STI swap into an RS or any other Subaru for that matter.

Sticking the engine and trans in is easy, but i hope your good with wiring, that is where you will spend most of your time.

-=Suberdave=-
www.suberdave.com
My advice for anyone is to pay to have the harnesses spliced. I have to post three reply's, then I'll post my twin turbo b4 swap
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Old 10-01-2017, 03:19 PM   #20
Scapegoatwagonstin
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What motor mounts did you use?
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Old 02-02-2019, 10:34 PM   #21
Romy
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Time for an updated as I haven't updated in a while.

I looked at my 'to do' list and I guess I've made some progress. The hoods been painted, a driveshaft's been made (steel, not aluminum), and the car's been in use for over 1.5 years now. I did pick up an EUDM black face gauge (in mph) and JDM HIDs to wire in. Still haven't done that.

I've been running 215/75r15 all terrains on 15x7 Method MR502s with 48mm offset. They work fine but rub slightly. It's odd because 55mm offset WRX wheels with 215/70r16 never did (about the same size). I'm planning to go back to 16's so I can run the BP larger front brakes but keep the All Terrain tires. I'll post that progress once I get there.

I recently swapped the rear brakes to BP vented rotors; the 290mm x 18mm rotors out of an ~06-09 Legacy GT / Spec B (instead of the 290mm x 10mm solid rotors). These are the same rotors as the 06/07 WRX rotors but with sliding calipers instead of fixed calipers. I have the 06/07 fixed calipers on my Impreza and didn't see a huge reason to do the same on the Outback.

I also put Spec B trailing arm bushings in the rear trailing arms in lieu of the aluminum Spec B arms (for now at least). Part number for that bushing is 20254AE050. I'd recommend taking the arm off to press them out/in. I took pictures (the bushings orient a certain way); I'll upload later once Flickr finishes syncing.

Last edited by Romy; 02-03-2019 at 12:04 AM.
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Old 02-02-2019, 11:02 PM   #22
Romy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gc_coxen View Post
Have you found a good solution to implementing the 6MT? I'm curious how well this could work. To my knowledge, gearbox will bolt right up, but I'm unsure how the rear end would work with the r180 and different axles
Yeah, that's the next thing to do. Although I still haven't wired in the black face meter or HID lights, but I'm not super concerned about those things as what I have works fine. The 5mt is great, but it's also running 3k rpm at 70mph. Speed limits in Nevada are 70-80mph; add the typical 5-10 mph over and the engine is turning fast enough to kill your gas mileage. But the instant boost is nice.

I'd really like a JDM Forester STI or Spec B 6 speed but I think the chance of finding one is low. Any 6 speed should bolt right in. I'll update when I get to that point.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scapegoatwagonstin View Post
What motor mounts did you use?
Group N mounts. All turbo cars have the same motor mounts. All 5mt transmissions have the same mounts. NVH is not noticeably worse but the engine is also super smooth.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gr8fulboater View Post
My advice for anyone is to pay to have the harnesses spliced. I have to post three reply's, then I'll post my twin turbo b4 swap
I'd disagree. Do it yourself so you know what's been done. Research it and add what you want (auto climate control, extra lights, aftermarket gauges as if they were stock, aux 12V sockets, etc.). Subaru's are like Lego's. Don't pay people to do work you can do yourself; take the time and make it nice.

Other stuff:

Gas mileage wise I typically get about 22 mpg. The NA 2.5 got about 24 mpg but had a hard time keeping up with traffic when towing or going up steep hills. Now it just pulls. Even towing a fully loaded trailer, with the cruise on I don't even notice. Frickin sweet.

FWIW, the STI engine has been in for about 25k now and it's great. The boost is addictive and I've had zero engine issues. OEM Subaru CVs prove to last longer than the crap from your FLAPS. Auto climate control is pretty nice and was worth the effort, as are the off road lights I added. If you're considering doing the swap, I'd completely recommend it; it makes the Legacy an awesome car. And if you don't make it obvious that you've modded the hell out of the car, it's quite the sleeper
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Old 03-12-2019, 01:14 PM   #23
xrayspecs
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THIS IS RAD, not sure how i just found your thread, but A+ for just committing to it.

would like to eventually do this to my BE.
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