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Old 10-09-2018, 04:00 PM   #2026
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This is why I'm working on my own cheap two-stage drysump set up. It'll cover the good oil quality side of things but I wouldn't expect power gains on our small crankcase without something like a 5-stage system. I don't want the weight, cost, or complexity of that for my personal car...at least not yet.

If I recall, you were pretty low power density and low RPM still. So a two stage might actually net you a bit of power.
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Old 10-10-2018, 01:29 PM   #2027
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My hopping has actually gone away after the shock change. I really don't want it to come back. Did you do a front diff on yours?
What exactly shock wise did you do to get rid of it?

I found that with an aggressive rear diff (cusco) and a stock front the hopping got allot worse. It wasn't until I did a more passive rear and aggressive front (OSG both ends) that it mitigated the hop. I still get a certain amount of it but have been hesitant to use the shocks to tune it out since I have them working well in all other conditions.
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Old 10-10-2018, 02:05 PM   #2028
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What exactly shock wise did you do to get rid of it?

I found that with an aggressive rear diff (cusco) and a stock front the hopping got allot worse. It wasn't until I did a more passive rear and aggressive front (OSG both ends) that it mitigated the hop. I still get a certain amount of it but have been hesitant to use the shocks to tune it out since I have them working well in all other conditions.
Removed JRZs, replaced with KWs. Its absolutely gone. The difference was night and day enough that I am led to think that most of subarus hopping issues are induced by bad or incorrect shocks, and the driveline reacts to it. People smarter than me have suggested the same. Either shock bind, or tire contact to the chassis, and the driveline reacts.

Which shocks do you have? Some brands/designs tend to bind up in the rear enough to induce hops no matter what you do.
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Old 10-10-2018, 02:07 PM   #2029
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On the accumulator ideas, I see that most people run them off of a sandwhich plate. This seems to me like it would cause too long of a delay for the discharge to potentially save the bearings. Has anyone thought of or set one up to discharge directly into the main galleys?
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Old 10-10-2018, 02:58 PM   #2030
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Removed JRZs, replaced with KWs. Its absolutely gone. The difference was night and day enough that I am led to think that most of subarus hopping issues are induced by bad or incorrect shocks, and the driveline reacts to it. People smarter than me have suggested the same. Either shock bind, or tire contact to the chassis, and the driveline reacts.

Which shocks do you have? Some brands/designs tend to bind up in the rear enough to induce hops no matter what you do.
Custom Penske Triples based off the 8760's from Anze. I think ultimately the bucking/hoping is a result of the drivetrain. Same struts but switched diffs and it just about cured everything. I'm just trying to find that last little bit.
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Old 10-10-2018, 03:37 PM   #2031
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Originally Posted by Thorium06 View Post
Removed JRZs, replaced with KWs. Its absolutely gone. The difference was night and day enough that I am led to think that most of subarus hopping issues are induced by bad or incorrect shocks, and the driveline reacts to it. People smarter than me have suggested the same. Either shock bind, or tire contact to the chassis, and the driveline reacts.

Which shocks do you have? Some brands/designs tend to bind up in the rear enough to induce hops no matter what you do.
I had a similar experience to you with KW, but changed a lot of things at once. Previously had the stock vlsd r160 and stance supersport+ (8k/6k) and it would buck horribly on throttle.

Switched to a very aggressive Kaaz and RCE T2s (KW V3s) on RCE's standard springrates and no more hop. I also switched to all sphericals in the Lat links and trailing arms at that time.

Last edited by T-37; 10-10-2018 at 03:44 PM.
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Old 10-10-2018, 03:58 PM   #2032
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I had a similar experience to you with KW, but changed a lot of things at once. Previously had the stock vlsd r160 and stance supersport+ (8k/6k) and it would buck horribly on throttle.

Switched to a very aggressive Kaaz and RCE T2s (KW V3s) on RCE's standard springrates and no more hop. I also switched to all sphericals in the Lat links and trailing arms at that time.
I chased around every other option including bushing bind before I changed shocks. The exception was diffs as I had to run OEM for STU. But I did swap one of my spare new OEM rear diffs in and it didn't have a change. Basically nothing did until I changed the shocks.
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Old 10-10-2018, 04:48 PM   #2033
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I chased around every other option including bushing bind before I changed shocks. The exception was diffs as I had to run OEM for STU. But I did swap one of my spare new OEM rear diffs in and it didn't have a change. Basically nothing did until I changed the shocks.
Do you know if there is a difference in droop travel up front between the two brands of shocks by any chance?
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Old 10-10-2018, 05:04 PM   #2034
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The KWs do have more droop travel. The JRZs I felt had a decent amount too. The difference in the front was not as large as the rear where the KW has significantly more droop travel. I should have pictures somewhere.
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Old 10-14-2018, 03:51 PM   #2035
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Originally Posted by Thorium06 View Post
The KWs do have more droop travel. The JRZs I felt had a decent amount too. The difference in the front was not as large as the rear where the KW has significantly more droop travel. I should have pictures somewhere.
Which JRZs did you have?
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Old 10-15-2018, 01:42 PM   #2036
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RS Pro
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Old 10-25-2018, 02:46 PM   #2037
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Man I really shouldn't have started reading the EFR thread in the power bragging section.
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Old 10-25-2018, 03:24 PM   #2038
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So far it looks like there are options now too if you're a Garret fan. The G25 series has pretty quick response based on a video I've seen, but it's also a bit more expensive. Still, the advent of the EFR has really kind of changed the game for the Subaru's in autox since we're now able to match the inline 4's for response time.
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Old 10-25-2018, 04:14 PM   #2039
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So far it looks like there are options now too if you're a Garret fan. The G25 series has pretty quick response based on a video I've seen, but it's also a bit more expensive. Still, the advent of the EFR has really kind of changed the game for the Subaru's in autox since we're now able to match the inline 4's for response time.
I've been thinking my little 20g was adequate but the Dr this year really proved what that big car can do on a power course.

Which one are you running these days Tim 6758 w/.64 iwg?
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Old 10-25-2018, 04:54 PM   #2040
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Talking along these lines, I have a buddy at Penske that has four 0.64 IRL 6758's available; for those that want to shave some weight and have EWG.
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Old 10-25-2018, 05:05 PM   #2041
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I've been thinking my little 20g was adequate but the Dr this year really proved what that big car can do on a power course.

Which one are you running these days Tim 6758 w/.64 iwg?
Yep. Only fancy thing is the aluminum CHRA for mildly lighter weight and a high boost canister/higher pressure bypass spring. I honestly think the "peasant" boost buggies are fine in the 400-500 whp range. Aversa doesn't make a ton of power and Bill was within .3 of Strelnicks. My car makes more than his (when running ). I think the power/spool of the EFR's with good shocks would have been enough, even on a power course simply because we're narrower, lighter, and the gearing is reasonable.

Really, it's the spool vs the older style Garrets that makes such a difference. I've driven other cars making more power than mine, but slower to boost and they're consistently harder to drive fast because of the spool. Once you go EFR and you're above 3,500 rpm it's pretty much like driving a big V8. If you're in a slalom or sweeper and hit the gas you can actually drive the car with your right foot vs getting a bit of push as the turbo comes online THEN driving with your right foot.

All that being said, you'll want to limit the low end a bit since the turbo can come on very quick. I actually limited mine since it would have crossed the 500 wtq mark at like 3,600 rpm and that kind of stuff folds rods. Optimal on your setup (IIRC it's drop in pistons but stock rods and case) would be trying to limit it to around 375ish wtq. With better rods you could push it to the mid 400's and just watch timing to keep the cylinders round.
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Old 10-25-2018, 05:16 PM   #2042
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(IIRC it's drop in pistons but stock rods and case) would be trying to limit it to around 375ish wtq. With better rods you could push it to the mid 400's and just watch timing to keep the cylinders round.
Going the ERF route would mean new short block for sure, whether by choice or not lol

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Bill was within .3 of Strelnicks.
I was more thinking of the Pro but yeah Bills first run day two on cold tires was a flyer!

Looking to make the car meet sound and i've somehow plotted out a new engine and turbo combo. I need to relax and just back away and buy a catback lol

Last edited by *Ulimited*; 10-25-2018 at 05:39 PM.
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Old 10-25-2018, 05:41 PM   #2043
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Going the ERF route would mean new short block for sure, whether by choice or not lol
I really don't think it needs to be super fancy either. I'm buying an IAG closed deck and machining it here for my pistons, then the Manley TT rods to deal with the torque. If you're not going to rev past about 7,500 then the stock crank is fine.

You can keep the old one as a spare too

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I was more thinking of the Pro but yeah Bills first run day two on cold tires was a flyer!
Good point. I wasn't thinking about it due to not being in it. I can say going against Erik last year in Blytheville he was on the 900+ tune and I was holding my own on the 60', to the first turn, and then quicker through the course because my car was behaving. Granted, I think he might have been blowing the tires off on the start and I know he had issues with getting all the boost through the course, but I was also only on the 315's at the time. I really think 400-500 is the butter zone for us and chasing those big numbers tends to sacrifice reliability more than anything.
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Old 10-25-2018, 06:56 PM   #2044
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I actually limited mine since it would have crossed the 500 wtq mark at like 3,600 rpm and that kind of stuff folds rods.
Damn. My little Garrett is a fun and all, but holy hell comments like that make me want a proper built motor and to join the EFR club.
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Old 10-25-2018, 10:47 PM   #2045
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So, about these Penske EFR turbos for sale...
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Old 10-26-2018, 12:27 PM   #2046
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I'm curious as well
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Old 10-26-2018, 03:28 PM   #2047
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RS Pro
Interesting. Swapping out my FA 500s for the RS Pros was a huge improvement all around, which is no surprise. It definitely mitigated a lot of the hopping as well. Iím also on stock diffs, but Iíve run 295 A6s and 285 BFG R1S. The hopping hasnít been horrible, but it definitely happens. Iím going to try ditching the rear assist springs and run zero rate helpers at all corners. Iíd like to step up to 315 A7s but I know more grip will just cause more issues on stock diffs. Anyone selling some OSG diffs?
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Old 10-26-2018, 04:19 PM   #2048
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OSG sells OSG diffs
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Old 10-26-2018, 04:21 PM   #2049
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Flatirons Tuning is a vendor as well
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Old 10-26-2018, 06:04 PM   #2050
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I really don't think it needs to be super fancy either. I'm buying an IAG closed deck and machining it here for my pistons, then the Manley TT rods to deal with the torque.
Those boat anchors still make me and your rod bearings sad

Wish I had something off the shelf that was a suitable upgrade for your lightweight rods.

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So, about these Penske EFR turbos for sale...
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I'm curious as well
Let me bug my buddy about them.
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