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Old 10-10-2017, 01:23 AM   #1501
09slowrex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Distant Roots View Post
Code: P0420
Year/Make/Model: 2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i (non-turbo)
Mileage: 136,000
Fix for problem: n/a

My car passed CA smog about 3 weeks ago and the CEL turned on last week and then turned off on the highway and then turned back on a day ago on the highway again. So if I passed smog.. my catalytic converter is NOT at fault. Also, I assume if it was my cat at fault, the CEL would remain on until it's fixed. As a side note, I did remove the bottom heat shield cover that is below the rear o2 sensor but I highly doubt it would be that. I removed it because it would rattle above 3k rpm.

So I ordered a rear o2 sensor and then I checked my engine bay and notice that my rear o2 sensor and front o2 sensor look relatively new (judging by the condition of the wires) but who knows.. maybe it is at fault? The connector seems fine and the wires are not burnt. I haven't changed the rear sensor because I plan on doing a tune up and installing it during that process.

For a tune up, I plan on doing a seafoam treatment (1/2 in fuel and 1/2 in a vac line), replace pcv valve, clean maf and throttle body, replace engine/cabin air filter, change valve cover/spark plug gaskets (found a bit of oil on spark plug wire boots), change spark plug wires, change spark plugs, and... I think that's it. I know doing the entire tune up is not going to turn it off but I'm just doing it because I feel like it needs a tune up. I have read some weird causes though.. like the spark plug wires, pcv valve, type of gas, but that most of the time it's the rear o2 sensor or the cat. Wtf? Maybe marijuana in my gas tank or crankcase would help get rid of this notorious 420 code?

Anyway, my car does not idle weird or stall. It hauls and I think that my mpg is around 26/27. So any thoughts? I appreciate any help.
look into creating a high pass filter between signal wires. Takes 3k ohm resistor and 1 capacitor.
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Old 10-16-2017, 11:31 PM   #1502
GWFLARE
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2013 Impreza WRX 5dr
Charcoal black

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So, I'm relatively new to being a "subie" guy, I've had my 2013 Wrx hatch for a year and a half now, and thankfully haven't had to do anything really besides oil changes. But about 3 weeks ago, to my own fault, I was driving some back roads with 3 other people in the car, moving pretty good, and I came to a stop sign and the CEL comes on. By the time I get to my shop to check the code, it's gone out, but the reader comes up with P0351 (Ignition coil A). So I replaced the coil on cyl #1 and all new sparks, the car ran fine for 2 weeks. Then the same code came up while i was on the highway doing about 8 and a half, but the car ran fine. Didn't check the code till the next day, it had gone out, same code. Now today, it came up a third time while I was on the highway doing roughly 8, but it idled really rough, didn't seem to have any loss of power though. Got to my shop, and caught the code this time, same code, plus cyl #1 misfire. I'm assuming that its not the sparks or the coil, I'm going to try pulling the MAF tomorrow and see if that makes a change, as well as look for any vacuum leaks. Does anyone have any insight as to where I should look in particular? I'm inexperienced when it comes to troubleshooting and knowledge in that aspect, but I have enough resources to do the work myself, I'm just really lost and unsure what to look for.

Thank you anyone who can help, I appreciate it 10x over!
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Old 10-17-2017, 01:51 PM   #1503
biggin215
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Default P1604 Startability Malfunction, P0852 Park/Neutral Switch, 2 current codes TBD

Code: P1604, P0852, 2 codes unknown (more info below)
Year/Make/Model: 2018 Subaru WRX Premium (Stock, no mods)
Mileage: 3800 miles
Fix for problem: ???

tl;dr CEL comes on a few times a week, no fix yet after two service trips.

Hi all! I am new to Subaru and my first one is a 2018 WRX I got in June.

I've been to the service center twice with two different CEL codes. First one was a P1604 (Startability Malfunction) which they told me the solution from Subaru USA was to just clear the code. The code "appears without reason" sometimes.

The most recent one was a P0852 - Park/Neutral switch malfunction. The Tech called Subaru corporate after going through the troubleshooting tree.

They told him that it is apparently a software issue that they intend to fix sometime in December or January. Anyone else had this issue? The light comes on at least a couple of times a week and I have been just resetting the ECU myself. It's a little annoying though. My car has less than 4000 miles and to add to everything, my passenger side window would not go down using my driver side controls (the passenger side button worked though). Someone suggested the window issue was due to the battery being disconnected, not necessarily a malfunction. Once I got going though, the switch started working which to me sounds like some sort of electrical short somewhere in the car.

My check engine light is currently on right now. I took it to Autozone just to see if I could figure out what the codes were, but the OBD2 reader would not display the codes for some reason. It just said there were two codes but wouldn't say what they were. The Autozone tech said he hadn't seen that before. I have a service appointment scheduled for this afternoon.

Any specifics I should tell the techs when I bring the car in today? First thing is I want to know what the two codes are of course.

Beyond that, I'm going to tell them I don't think it's fair to tell me to live with a car that has a check engine light every few days that disables my cruise control (seems like a great way for me to end up with a ticket for accidentally speeding). I just don't think I should have to wait until potentially next year for a software fix. If it's the same code as before, I am going to ask them to start replacing things, starting with the sensor, until the issue is fixed.

To add a little more detail, after my last visit for the p0852 codes, Subaru America told the tech who then told me that I should "refrain from quick shifting from 0 to 40mph" to prevent the p0852 code. That's just ridiculous to me, and the tech agreed. One of the primary reasons for buying the car was because it's fun to drive.

I'm not even convinced that the park/neutral sensor is the actual issue. I think whole electrical system might be on the fritz.

For more background: My first trip to the service center was in Ohio at the dealer where I purchased it (p1604). The second one was here in Texas at another certified service center (p0852). I don't think I'm getting the run around from the service center.... they were nice and seemed to want to fix the issue.

This whole ordeal sucks. The car is great. I love driving it, but all these issues are really starting to wear on me :/

I would have liked to separate this into its own thread, but I can't at the moment because I don't have enough posts. I feel like maybe it could get more visibility then, and if someone else has had similar issues they could chime in (if a mod would like to/could do that feel free if you think it's necessary).
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Old 10-17-2017, 08:22 PM   #1504
biggin215
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Default Update to the above CEL post

Quick update from my service visit today: the two codes were the same P0852 as last time and a new P1501 code for a power supply system error.

I have a loaner for the time being. A loaded Impreza that I have to admit is a pretty kitted out car for the price!

I gave Subaru Corporate a call while I was waiting. The customer service rep I spoke with was very understanding and seemed concerned about my issues. He agreed that this is not stuff that should be going on with a new car. He took all the history on the car and opened a file for it. He said he'd contact the service centers I've visited, talk to some higher ups, and contact me in a couple of days with more information. He promised a resolution. While it's his job to make sure I'm happy, I do feel like I'm genuinely being treated right.

I'll keep updating as information comes in. As far as I'm concerned this is a great test of Subaru's customer service. I've heard it's pretty good.
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Old 10-25-2017, 06:35 AM   #1505
Shaperlst
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2011 Subaru WRX
Black

Default 2011 Wrx

P0171 : System Too Lean Bank 1
2011/Subaru/WRX Limited
Mileage: 140,000
Fix for problem: Unsure

My issue originated about 3 weeks ago, I was driving then for some reason my engine stalled, I restarted it and it was running fine. The next day I was out driving and every time my engine would get into boost it would stop accelerating and just go to idle.

Within a week of that issue it started fluctuating while I was driving down the road at a constant speed, I could see my RPM jump 2-300, finally it through a CEL. I read the code with my Accessport and it said that bank 1 was lean, considering there is only one bank in the engine that wasn't helpful.

After that I asked one of the guys I knew for help as he had the same year and model I did, he cleaned the MAF Sensor and checked the vacuum lines and said he did not see a leak. While he was looking at it we also had it die on us and every time we restarted it, it died; so we unplugged the MAF and it started without issues. So we then swapped his MAF sensor onto my car and it seemed to run fine around the block. We put mine back in, and it wasn't dying anymore, but still ran rough on my way home. So I went and bought one from Autozone and put it in. However this did not fix the issue, the CEL still came on and it still had all the same issues.

This being my daily driver I was still driving it, just babying it to work and back. The other day I got so frustrated I unplugged the MAF just to see how it would drive and it is not having issues except the codes for the MAF being unplugged. So I am confused on what the issue is.
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Old 11-03-2017, 05:15 PM   #1506
Usmc75
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Hey everyone,

I have a 2012 wrx 60,000 miles accessport flashed to stage 1+sf. When I went to start my car this morning it had a really rough idle and the rpms shot up to 2,5rpm then dropped back down. When I went to give it a rev it was very hesitant. I took a chance and drove it to work. On my way to work coming to a stop light car stalled. Started it up and pulled off the road and stalled again. At this time still had a rough idle I checked to see if I had coolent and oil and everything was fine. Before resetting my ecu, I read a code on the AP p0128 dealing with coolent. After reset, i started the car and eventually idled normal. Drove it to work fine after that. Drove it home and tried to get on it and it just felt sluggish. When driving home car never stalled. Once I got it home I popped the hood checked everything no obstruction In the intake or intercooler or leaks. I Let the car idle and coolent temp reached 205 degrees then the fans kicked on up untill the temp dropped down to 192 then the fans shut off. I'm scratching my head here because Idk what to think. I did have p0128 before but not this bad where it had rough idle and stalling while driving.

Any knowledge on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
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Old 11-03-2017, 08:17 PM   #1507
Elbert Bass
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Did you save your freeze frame data from when the code set? As far as that code either you got a thermostat that is stuck open or a flaky engine coolant temp sensor. It is usually the thermostat.The freeze frame data would give you a better idea.
It's possible that could cause your driveability issue - normally it wouldn't be that drastic but you got a tune...
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Old 11-03-2017, 08:55 PM   #1508
Usmc75
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Hey thank you, What is a freeze frame? And I was leaning towards the cause was a stuck thermostat.
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Old 11-04-2017, 02:26 PM   #1509
Charlie-III
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Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Usmc75 View Post
Hey thank you, What is a freeze frame? And I was leaning towards the cause was a stuck thermostat.
Freeze frame data can be pulled from decent OBDII scanners, maybe the AP as well.
The ECU saves data (engine RPM, load, speed, coolant temp, etc.) for the FIRST CEL stored and current.
It can be a good diagnostic tool to help with issues.

BTW, are your brakes still quiet?
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Old 11-04-2017, 03:01 PM   #1510
Usmc75
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Hey Charlie! Thank you for the info.

Funny you asked after bout a month brake noise came back took it to the place where I bought the car from, they inspected rotors and determine they were shot. They waved new rotors and pads after about 3 weeks with the new pads and rotors noise came back. I bit the bullet and took it to Subaru. Come to find out the mechanic at the other shop had, 1. Brake pads Installed upside down. 2. Air in the lines. 3. anti rattle clips missing. Subaru fixed it the correct way. Now no noise but I'm sure if I get them hot on the road they would make noise because they are still ****ty rotors. But hey, they were free so can't complain there. Lol
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Old 11-08-2017, 08:15 AM   #1511
Usmc75
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Update: so after resetting my ECU on Friday 11/3. I was checking the readiness of my car today 11/8 and the only system that isn't ready is my Evap system. Any ideas on what this could be?
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Old 11-09-2017, 06:11 PM   #1512
vega_box
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2003 WRX
PSM

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Vehicle: 06 Forester XT
Miles: 140088
CEL: P0301
Symptoms: rough idle at low rpms, horrible gas mileage. Only noticed a few times a rich smell
Replaced thus far:
4 new injectors
4 new spark plugs
Swapped coil packs
BG induction service
AVCS oil filters removed
Throttle body gasket replace and throttle body clean
Fresh oil change

Even after all repairs misfire still present and this is the only code that shows. Mechanic is saying to replace the AVCS solenoid (both) and can sprockets. Said looks like the previous didn't change oil like was supposed to all the time. Anyone else have this issue. Do both solenoid need to be replaced?
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Old 11-28-2017, 02:46 PM   #1513
Echo_2015
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Default P0442 cel 2006 wrx please help!

I've had this small evap leak for the past year and I just got a smoke test done after changing fuel pump gasket and they said they couldn't see any leak with the test. So I drove for about 20 miles and the light came back on.***128548; does anybody know what might be causing the code if there are no leaks with the smoke test.
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Old 11-29-2017, 12:39 AM   #1514
strikingwrex02
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2002 WRX
Silver

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98 Forester 2.5L DOHC
P0302
P0303
P0304
200,000+
I just did both head-gaskets due to massive coolant consumption issue. Took the heads to a machine shop to ensure they were still flat. Also had them ensure all the valves were in good shape (not leaking). Got it all back together and now the misfire codes, super ruff idle, and barely any power under acceleration. Checked for spark from the coil by pulling the wire off each terminal, spark was coming from each terminal on the coil pack. Next i wanted to ensure each cyl was getting fuel. I pulled the connectors from the injectors one at a time. From my understanding if the cyl is operating normal doing this will cause a dip and a sputter while idling to the point where the engine should die. Driver side front cyl (#2) reacted as expected. Passenger side (#1 and 3)and also (#4) was odd. #1,3,and 4 the idle dipped and sputtered for about 5 sec then came right back to where it was before. When i reconnected it no change. Now i am super confused cuz the codes say 2,3,and 4 but #2 was the only on that acted normal and #1,3,and 4 were the problems. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you
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Old 12-28-2017, 12:55 PM   #1515
mpfau
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2007 WRX TR 97k miles

I've gotten multiple codes, sometimes all at once, sometimes one at a time
P0107 MAP censor circuit
P2109 TPS "A" Minimum stop performance
P2135 TPS "A/B" voltage rationality
P0107 Manifold Pressure*Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Low Input)
P0122 Throttle*position*sensor*circuit*low input
P0222 Throttle*Position*Sensor*B Low Input
P2135 Throttle*Position*Sensor*Circuit*Range/Performance
P2432 Secondary air injection system air flow/ pressure sensor circuit low

2 things. I found mouse droppings in the drivers side door pocket (but i had the MAP sensor cel before the mouse was there.) and I have also noticed a strong correlation between the outside air temperature, and the cel's coming on and putting it into limp mode. If its below 28 outside i can almost guarantee that the codes will go, but warmer than that and it's running fine. Also when its single digits (was 5 degrees this morning) then even clearing the codes with my accessport wont work and they come back on instantly. Again its not always the same codes, sometimes 4 at once, sometimes only 1. It's hard to think that all the sensors just went at the same time, and i would be shocked if this was an issue with the ECU. this is a big issue as this is my daily, and its a long winter. Im at a loss, any input is appreciated
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Old 01-06-2018, 07:50 PM   #1516
Brandon07STi
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Default

P2102 : Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit Low
2007 Subara Impreza STi
Mileage: 83,000
Fix for problem: Still experiencing problem

One random night driving home, the car all of the sudden went into limp mode and had no power. Wouldn’t rev last 2 K RPMs, I pulled into gas station and turned car off and on. Still acting weird. So I reset the ECU And restarted car, it was fine for the 5 minute ride home and as I pulled into my driveway it started hesitating and shut off. Also the E Break, Battery And Rear Diff temp lights lit up. Accessport only shows the P2102 Code. Keep in mind it has been below zero for a few weeks now and not sure if the cold has messed with the wiring or anything. I was reading somewhere that that code means there is a problem with the power it is getting and not the actual actuator. Still not sure, I just ordered a new alternator because today I got the car running fine and then it went into the limp mode and now the car won’t keep the battery charging, even after charging it with a battery charger, the car, at an idle, died on me earlier, and the AP showed the voltage down to 7 Volts from 10 when I first started it and the car died on me. So I ordered a new alternator and probably going to go pick up a new throttle body. Has anyone experienced any of these problems? Any insight? Please and thanks for any responses
Mods : Turboback Exhaust , Cobb Blowoff , Cobb Intake, front mount intercooler.

Another Thing, Now my Windshield wipers won’t turn off, wether the engine is off and on accessories, or if the engine is on, they are always on. With the selector off or on doesn’t matter the wipers stay on until keys are out of ignition. Only thing that solved it was pulling the fuse. Any one experience this?

Thanks for your time!

EDIT : Replaced throttle body and alternator and now it revs to 3 K RPMs but Full Throttle it bounces between 3K and 2500 slowly. Not sure what’s going on.

Put new battery and relay, and still experiencing problem... not sure what else to do! Possibly start following wiring and seeing what’s getting power.

Last edited by Brandon07STi; 02-11-2018 at 10:43 PM. Reason: Added something else.
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Old 01-10-2018, 10:26 AM   #1517
Ezuan
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Exclamation Same issue.. sorry 5 years late!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubakanush View Post
Hmm. Battery is just over a year old, just installed new terminals and cleaned all the connections so I don't think it would be the battery. I also have an AEM volt gauge installed and on a normal start up and drive it stays between 14.2-14.6, rarely ever drops to 13.9; unless there are a lot of accessories on.

I've been at school all week but I'm going to try and head home at some point this weekend to check wires, etc. should I just check the wiring under the steering wheel?

Update: checked the transmission fluid today, levels are good and the fluid looks and smells normal. Checked the TCU under the steering column, no loose or shorted wires there at all. All fuses and connections are intact. Reset the ECU again after all this and the light is still on.. Really at a loss here

I've been dealing with this exact issue with my 2005 Impreza 2.5rs. Months ago when I removed the plastic wheel well inserts to make my 18x9.75 wheels fit, I had the harness actually somehow fall out of the spot it was clipped to in the wheel well (rot) and it hit my tire at about 45 MPH. Only about 3 wires were in bad condition.

I originally fixed all the wires with butt end connectors and new wire. Got the car running again and used it through the summer. Then coming off the interstate a few weeks ago, my car complete shuts off like when it first got destroyed. I rewired the entire thing again but with sauder and heatshrink. My car is still no click, no crank, no start.

I did everything Buba was talking about, and got the same code. Seriously at a loss with this. I am still searching through my connections in the harness and checking fuses.

Please help me, subaru gods.
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Old 01-15-2018, 09:47 AM   #1518
08OBS
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2018 Colorado Duramax

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Car: 2004 Subaru WRX 134,xxx miles
Code: P0483 Control Fan Rationality Check Malfunction

The radiator fans kick on when supposed to and the coolant gauge in the cluster is working fine. I am thinking the ECU temp sensor in the cross over pipe is going bad. I will check the sensor and see if that's the issue.

Update: Girlfriend removed fuses and cleaned the terminals and the light has not came back.

Last edited by 08OBS; 02-08-2018 at 01:33 PM.
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Old 01-24-2018, 09:17 AM   #1519
XTR
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06 OB XT

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06 OBXT 132k.
Bone stock except for K&N air filter

Threw P0172 Engine rich code, which caused rough/low idle, and awful mpg.

Solution: Clean the MAF Several hundred miles and it hasnt returned.
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Old 01-26-2018, 04:16 PM   #1520
caw94103
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Default Please Help!

Code: P0448 EVAP EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM VENT CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED
Year/Make/Model: 03/Subaru/WRX
Mileage: 120xxx
Fix for problem: NO FIX YET

So I blew out the right rear tire awhile ago and it broke the connector to the vent valve in the evap system which caused a P0447 (vent control circuit low input). I just fixed the connector and replaced the vent valve so i can pass emissions and register my car. After replacing the parts and clearing the ECM the CEL came back in 5 miles with this damn P0448. I tested the wiring and have good voltage at the vent valve connector but when plugged in there is no function in the vent valve. I cant find a short anywhere and I Have searched everywhere but no one has posted a solution to this code. PLEASE HELP as I have no vehicle until I can register this one.
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Old 01-26-2018, 04:20 PM   #1521
caw94103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pearlwrx1320 View Post
P0448 Evaporative emission control system vent control high input

2007subaru wrx tr

97000 help please
Did you ever find a fix??
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Old 02-02-2018, 08:12 PM   #1522
ggixxer599
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Location: Northpark Dallas, TX
Vehicle:
2015 STI
DGM

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08OBS View Post
Car: 2004 Subaru WRX 134,xxx miles
Code: P0483 Control Fan Rationality Check Malfunction

The radiator fans kick on when supposed to and the coolant gauge in the cluster is working fine. I am thinking the ECU temp sensor in the cross over pipe is going bad. I will check the sensor and see if that's the issue.
Did you ever find a fix? I just threw this code this evening with the same symptoms as you. Any help appreciated.
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Old 02-06-2018, 03:22 PM   #1523
djhyro
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2008 Forester XTs

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Got the dreaded P0457 (EVAP) CEL on my 06 WRX. Nothing aftermarket on my car and I'm trying to figure out the culprit. Replaced the gas cap, checked blue T-connector hoses and looks good. Going to check the canister soon but wanted to see if anyone can enlighten me on what this hose does. Found it near the blue t-connector and it's plugged with a bolt. Thanks in advance

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Old 02-11-2018, 10:41 PM   #1524
Brandon07STi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djhyro View Post
Got the dreaded P0457 (EVAP) CEL on my 06 WRX. Nothing aftermarket on my car and I'm trying to figure out the culprit. Replaced the gas cap, checked blue T-connector hoses and looks good. Going to check the canister soon but wanted to see if anyone can enlighten me on what this hose does. Found it near the blue t-connector and it's plugged with a bolt. Thanks in advance

Could you take another picture but a little farther away? Does it go into the intake manifold?
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Old 03-15-2018, 11:13 PM   #1525
Eightsecondeddy
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Default -25.00 idle p0172

07 sti
P0172 extreme fuel rich trim
132000
Perrin turbo inlet
Spt intake
1000cc id injectors
Aem 320 fuel pump
Protune e85
Iag aos street series
I have replaced all my intercooler hoses, maf sensor front o2 sensor, cleaned injector, ran a compression test and leak down test smoke test
Ive had the tune for about 1yr
Tuner swears its not the tune and ive replaced just about everthing and still get the code. What are anythings that i can look for before i spent any more money or have to take it in to the shop
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