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Old 02-23-2018, 11:20 PM   #1
fleezy
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Default Does Rotor Brand Really Matter?

I get how different brands could have proprietary pad compounds, but as the title suggests, does the brand of the rotor really matter? It's just a disc of steel at the end of the day...
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Old 02-24-2018, 12:09 AM   #2
jamal
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For the most part, yes, that has been my opinion. It is a piece of iron that wears down.

However, there are some slight differences in rotor composition. Centric, for example, has a "high-carbon" version of their rotors, which might last a little longer, and might be less susceptible to hot spots and uneven deposits. Maybe.

The other things you might get with a more expensive rotor are an anti-corrosive coating on the hat and inside the vanes and less runout.

And then holes and slots improve bite, keep the rotor-pad interface cleaner, and help a pads work better near it's maximum MOT. Holes make the rotor lighter, but do make the more likely to crack.

A 2-piece rotor does have more advantages because it is lighter, and allows the disc to float independently of the hat. That means less pad knockback, and less stress and deflection in the rotor from temperature changes.


All that said, I use centric premiium blanks and they are fine. All the things I mentioned are fairly slight differences and it's hard to tell the difference between a cheap blank and a 2-piece slotted rotor aside from the extra noise.
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Old 02-24-2018, 02:35 AM   #3
fleezy
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thanks for the insight.

i need a set of rears, so i'll get some cheapo's to replace the old ass oems
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Old 02-24-2018, 08:17 AM   #4
thegreatklye
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RockAuto
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Old 02-24-2018, 08:48 AM   #5
hrbutler52
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As you live in Canada, coated "hats" would be a benefit. Keeps the wheel mounting face in better shape and looks better.
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Old 02-24-2018, 09:43 AM   #6
Charlie-III
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamal View Post
For the most part, yes, that has been my opinion. It is a piece of iron that wears down.

However, there are some slight differences in rotor composition. Centric, for example, has a "high-carbon" version of their rotors, which might last a little longer, and might be less susceptible to hot spots and uneven deposits. Maybe.

The other things you might get with a more expensive rotor are an anti-corrosive coating on the hat and inside the vanes and less runout.

And then holes and slots improve bite, keep the rotor-pad interface cleaner, and help a pads work better near it's maximum MOT. Holes make the rotor lighter, but do make the more likely to crack.

A 2-piece rotor does have more advantages because it is lighter, and allows the disc to float independently of the hat. That means less pad knockback, and less stress and deflection in the rotor from temperature changes.


All that said, I use centric premiium blanks and they are fine. All the things I mentioned are fairly slight differences and it's hard to tell the difference between a cheap blank and a 2-piece slotted rotor aside from the extra noise.
Agreed. A bit above "cheapest I can find" is what I get. These may be better balanced, more consistent grain, etc.
Any of the "E coated" helps slow down rusting on none wear areas. The Centrics are what I tend to use. Price is decent, quality has been good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fleezy View Post
thanks for the insight.

i need a set of rears, so i'll get some cheapo's to replace the old ass oems
Go for E coated, still cheaper than OEM.
Note, pretty much ANY rotor is cast iron, not steel. There are very few exceptions, yes some are steel or maybe carbon, but almost all street rotors are cast iron.
It gives a decent balance of wear, grip and price.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thegreatklye View Post
RockAuto
I use RA all the time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hrbutler52 View Post
As you live in Canada, coated "hats" would be a benefit. Keeps the wheel mounting face in better shape and looks better.
Agreed, for reasons listed above.
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Old 02-24-2018, 05:21 PM   #7
lukethedork
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Yes. Rotor brand really matters. Well not the actual brand. But what the rotor is made of.

To say it's just a piece of steel and the pad is the major factor is ridiculous.
It would be like saying the tire is the only thing that matters and the road surface does not matter.
Just as your tires interact with the ground. Your brake pads interact with the rotor.
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Old 02-24-2018, 05:40 PM   #8
Mex4flatX
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I personally have DBA T2 Slotted Rotors on Hawk HPS pads.
Being has my car was pre-owned by one other owner. Yet very well kept.
Yes, most rotors are cast iron.
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Old 02-24-2018, 08:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukethedork View Post
Yes. Rotor brand really matters. Well not the actual brand. But what the rotor is made of.

To say it's just a piece of steel and the pad is the major factor is ridiculous.
It would be like saying the tire is the only thing that matters and the road surface does not matter.
Just as your tires interact with the ground. Your brake pads interact with the rotor.
Well, if you're going to say that, you could at least try to explain some of the differences.

What benefit do I really get for buying a $150 DBA 4000 over a $40 centric premium blank? Aside from the cool looking slots I mean.
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Old 02-25-2018, 11:18 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamal View Post
Well, if you're going to say that, you could at least try to explain some of the differences.

What benefit do I really get for buying a $150 DBA 4000 over a $40 centric premium blank? Aside from the cool looking slots I mean.
to be fair, RA can get me slotted and drilled power stops for 40/piece, but yes, the main point of this thread was to inquire: $150/rotor vs. $40/rotor, what is the actual discernible difference?

also, since i cant find slotted/drilled rotors that are also coated, i will likely go the opposite route.

Last edited by fleezy; 02-25-2018 at 11:24 PM.
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Old 02-26-2018, 12:51 AM   #11
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For street and AutoX, I hate drilled or slotted. I think you will be fine with something like the Centric E-coated rotors.
Pads make more of a difference.
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Old 02-26-2018, 02:42 PM   #12
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Auto-x is actually one of the situations where I'd recommend drilled rotors for the slight weight savings and better bite.
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Old 02-26-2018, 10:08 PM   #13
fleezy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
For street and AutoX, I hate drilled or slotted. I think you will be fine with something like the Centric E-coated rotors.
Pads make more of a difference.
my understanding is that drilled rotors improve performance in the rain, and slotted rotors keep brake dust out of the way.
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Old 02-26-2018, 10:28 PM   #14
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They're both doing the same thing- giving "stuff" a place to go instead of being trapped between the pad and rotor. That stuff can be water, dust, brake pad material, and gasses from a really hot pad.

Holes probably do a slightly better job at all of the above, but have their downsides, like cracking, and it reduces the mass of something that's job is to turn kinetic energy into heat.
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Old 02-26-2018, 11:10 PM   #15
tippmannman7
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Spit balling here but as Japanese steel is not the same as Chinese steel even if it is just a big slab of metal the impurities may be different and have an impact on performance. What katana would you want to go into the zombie apocalypse with lol?

That all being said I have been using premium wearever pads and rotors for 6+ years as they were recommended I believe somewhere on this site to work really well and have a great bang for your buck. I drive spirited and have had to bleed off questionable speed before and they have not let me down. Unless you are racing I would highly recommend the wearever gear. Nevermind the fact you can get additional discounts at advance if you buy online and use coupon codes.

If you haven't already changed to high quality brake fluid, SS lines, and a master cylinder brace I would also recommend those upgrades as they can greatly improve pedal feel and responsiveness.
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Old 02-27-2018, 12:23 PM   #16
fleezy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tippmannman7 View Post
If you haven't already changed to high quality brake fluid, SS lines, and a master cylinder brace I would also recommend those upgrades as they can greatly improve pedal feel and responsiveness.
im just using regular dot3, but i dont rip my car through the streets of toronto, so i dont think upgrading to even dot4 is necessary (though i might still do it).

i will look into ss lines and a brace tho
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