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Old 09-15-2017, 04:50 PM   #2176
Tankismyname
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So I may have just had my first breakdown of my WRX and it sounds similar to some of the videos posted on here.

Was driving to work, normal freeway acceleration speed, noticed my access port showed a -7.4 feedback/knock reading. Then began to hear a rattling sound from the front of the car between 1800-2700 rpm. I got to work, did some research and it sounded more like the heat shield rattle than anything else. Scheduled an appointment to have it removed, then drove home after work. Noticed the car was rattling a bit more noticeable and my feedback/knock was popping up pretty frequently, including a spike at -11.2. Got off the freeway immediately and noticed the car was having a terrible time getting up to about 35mph and then it died. Won't start. Dead.

I owe nearly $19k on this car still and am out of the warranty period.

Wish me luck....

2013 WRX
69k miles
Accessport Stage 1 91 octane map (uninstalled after pulling over)

Throwing codes p01111 Intake air temperature sensor circuit range/performance problem

and p01112 Intake air temperature sensor circuit low input
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Old 09-15-2017, 06:26 PM   #2177
point78
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Hopefully it's just your Maf sensor unit.

(Maybe go spray it off)
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Old 09-15-2017, 06:32 PM   #2178
Tankismyname
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Quote:
Originally Posted by point78 View Post
Hopefully it's just your Maf sensor unit.

(Maybe go spray it off)
Funny you mention that. I was having issues with mid rpm lagging a while back and told Subaru about it during my 60k maintenance. They couldn't replicate it and sent me on my way after I paid the $1200 bill.

2 weeks ago I took my car to a local shop that distributes Cobb parts. Their owner couldn't replicate it either but cleaned off the MAF sensor after he noticed it was filthy.

I'm no car expert but I don't think a MAF sensor would cause the clunking/knocking sounds. Right? Also car will not start, doesn't even turn over. Waiting for a tow truck to take me and it to Subaru. I knew I should have traded it in 2 weeks ago.
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Old 09-16-2017, 10:38 PM   #2179
danger1138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tankismyname View Post
Funny you mention that. I was having issues with mid rpm lagging a while back and told Subaru about it during my 60k maintenance. They couldn't replicate it and sent me on my way after I paid the $1200 bill.



2 weeks ago I took my car to a local shop that distributes Cobb parts. Their owner couldn't replicate it either but cleaned off the MAF sensor after he noticed it was filthy.



I'm no car expert but I don't think a MAF sensor would cause the clunking/knocking sounds. Right? Also car will not start, doesn't even turn over. Waiting for a tow truck to take me and it to Subaru. I knew I should have traded it in 2 weeks ago.


100% correct. A dirty maf sensor will not cause your car to make the noises you described before.
What you described before is a mechanical issue & there is no coming back from that unless you tear it down and rebuild or buy a new block.
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Old 09-16-2017, 10:41 PM   #2180
Tankismyname
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danger1138 View Post
100% correct. A dirty maf sensor will not cause your car to make the noises you described before.
What you described before is a mechanical issue & there is no coming back from that unless you tear it down and rebuild or buy a new block.


Yeah ended up being a spun bearing and total engine failure. Add me to the list.
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Old 09-21-2017, 07:10 PM   #2181
bxyoung
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I purchased a 2008 XT with an STI 6speed swap in September of 2016. The previous owner had just put a new motor with forged internals 6 months before selling it. After driving the car for about 2k miles I brought it to my local shop for an oil change. After the oil change the shop started the car for the first time and to my horror, terrible terrible knock. Diagnosed as rod bearing.

New rallispec short block installed in September and we're back in business. Until it turned into a crop duster this May. Just got the diagnosis today as ringland failure on piston #3 and #4.

My 2008 XT automatic has all the same mods (turbo, downpipe, injectors, etc etc) running on a stock motor for the past 6 years.

What gives? Am I a terrible manual driver? Am I just having bad luck? Bad tune?

EDIT: Yes it took my shop over 4 months to diagnose the problem.
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Old 10-27-2017, 10:19 AM   #2182
Nanashi
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Default WRX engine failure class action

I have been reading comments on this thread. My car hasn't suffered engine bearing failure yet but it is a concern. While searching the internet, I came across a law firm that does automobile class actions. The firm is organizing a class action for 2008-2014 WRX engine failures. Here is the link: https://defectiveconsumerproducts.wordpress.com
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Old 11-02-2017, 11:32 AM   #2183
BrandonDrums
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bxyoung View Post
I purchased a 2008 XT with an STI 6speed swap in September of 2016. The previous owner had just put a new motor with forged internals 6 months before selling it. After driving the car for about 2k miles I brought it to my local shop for an oil change. After the oil change the shop started the car for the first time and to my horror, terrible terrible knock. Diagnosed as rod bearing.

New rallispec short block installed in September and we're back in business. Until it turned into a crop duster this May. Just got the diagnosis today as ringland failure on piston #3 and #4.

My 2008 XT automatic has all the same mods (turbo, downpipe, injectors, etc etc) running on a stock motor for the past 6 years.

What gives? Am I a terrible manual driver? Am I just having bad luck? Bad tune?

EDIT: Yes it took my shop over 4 months to diagnose the problem.
Yeah, it's probably a bad tune. dyno tunes typically only address 80% - 100% throttle in isolated conditions. When you swap a bunch of bolt-on power parts on you need to have the whole car tuned through all gears on the road to scale the MAF and Injectors and partial throttle boost control over a couple of days to get it stable which no one pays for. Most folks throw it on the dyno and call it done.

I know from experience, paid to have my car dyno tuned making good power and laying down smooth curves only to pick it up and find it nearly un-drivable because the fuel and MAF maps were so off on all the load ranges except basically WOT. Had another shop road-tune it some but they didn't get it into 4th or 5th gear to do any logs and left all the timing and fuel maps in those load ranges untouched apparently. Only later I found out I had been driving around getting some major knock at partial throttle in highway gears that eventually contributed to my 2nd rod-bearing failure. It took me reading a post like this to get out my laptop and learn how to log to even figure that out, by then the damage had already been done.

It's hard to find people who are legitimately good at tuning as it is, but to get a tune that's stable across the board requires far more time even a good tuner is able to spend or the owner is able to afford. I'd learn how to datalog and work with someone to dial things in over a good month or two once the car is back together.
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Old 11-04-2017, 09:40 AM   #2184
Max Capacity
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bxyoung View Post
I purchased a 2008 XT with an STI 6speed swap in September of 2016. The previous owner had just put a new motor with forged internals 6 months before selling it. After driving the car for about 2k miles I brought it to my local shop for an oil change. After the oil change the shop started the car for the first time and to my horror, terrible terrible knock. Diagnosed as rod bearing.

New rallispec short block installed in September and we're back in business. Until it turned into a crop duster this May. Just got the diagnosis today as ringland failure on piston #3 and #4.

My 2008 XT automatic has all the same mods (turbo, downpipe, injectors, etc etc) running on a stock motor for the past 6 years.

What gives? Am I a terrible manual driver? Am I just having bad luck? Bad tune?

EDIT: Yes it took my shop over 4 months to diagnose the problem.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrandonDrums View Post
Yeah, it's probably a bad tune. dyno tunes typically only address 80% - 100% throttle in isolated conditions. When you swap a bunch of bolt-on power parts on you need to have the whole car tuned through all gears on the road to scale the MAF and Injectors and partial throttle boost control over a couple of days to get it stable which no one pays for. Most folks throw it on the dyno and call it done.

I know from experience, paid to have my car dyno tuned making good power and laying down smooth curves only to pick it up and find it nearly un-drivable because the fuel and MAF maps were so off on all the load ranges except basically WOT. Had another shop road-tune it some but they didn't get it into 4th or 5th gear to do any logs and left all the timing and fuel maps in those load ranges untouched apparently. Only later I found out I had been driving around getting some major knock at partial throttle in highway gears that eventually contributed to my 2nd rod-bearing failure. It took me reading a post like this to get out my laptop and learn how to log to even figure that out, by then the damage had already been done.

It's hard to find people who are legitimately good at tuning as it is, but to get a tune that's stable across the board requires far more time even a good tuner is able to spend or the owner is able to afford. I'd learn how to datalog and work with someone to dial things in over a good month or two once the car is back together.


After my tuner had the car on the dyno, he took it out for a test drive and data logging, made adjustments, to make sure he gave me back the car that I would be able to drive for years. That was back in Aug 2011. Over 100,00 miles ago.

www.tuningalliance.com Yes, he really is that great.
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Old 02-11-2018, 12:51 PM   #2185
parf909
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Default New Member Spun Bearing Club at 47,000kms

First post on NASIOC...My car, a 2014 STI, with 47,000kms, my 3rd day of ownership an unfortunate incident pulling out to pass, pedal to the floor got stuck under the hard plastic floor mat leading to an unintentional flat-foot shift and redline event. Rod knock and spun bearing. Good grief what a fragile, defective engine design. What a bummer. This car, only a few months out of warranty when I bought it, has some minor mods from the previous owner - Cobb stage 1 air intake, and cat back exhaust.
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Old 02-11-2018, 01:18 PM   #2186
tmcquinn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parf909 View Post
First post on NASIOC...My car, a 2014 STI, with 47,000kms, my 3rd day of ownership an unfortunate incident pulling out to pass, pedal to the floor got stuck under the hard plastic floor mat leading to an unintentional flat-foot shift and redline event. Rod knock and spun bearing. Good grief what a fragile, defective engine design. What a bummer. This car, only a few months out of warranty when I bought it, has some minor mods from the previous owner - Cobb stage 1 air intake, and cat back exhaust.
Hell of a thing, man. Sorry for your luck on this one.
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Old 03-10-2018, 11:57 PM   #2187
Saskabush
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OMGHi2U New Member Spun bearing at 72,000mi

Hi folks,

Prepare for an unnecessarily long first post, some sarcasm and pokes at forum knowledge.

tldr
2010 WRX
No mods, completely stock
72,000mi
Lost 4 quarts of oil and oil pressure
Spun rod bearing
Cam seal found misaligned, but only weeping

What's a little different is that no one else seems to be having massive loss of oil.
Just many small leaks that lead eventually to issues, but my engine was clean, surprisingly.


The Event
I heard mechanical knocking while cruising for ~5-10s.
Then stopped the engine as the oil pressure light came on.
Oil was pooled on the skid pan and had splashed onto everything.
Only area on engine that had oil leaking from it was inside timing cover.

I lost 4 quarts in relatively short order.
-20 min since I last stopped and could have seen it in the snow.
-Definitely 4 quarts since the night before. I checked it because I was supposed to start a 1000mi trip. Made it 100mi, not bad right?


The Prognosis
Only diagnosis is that the Cam seal was misaligned and is weeping slowly.
No source of a massive obvious leak or any leak otherwise.

Last people to touch the cam seal was a Subaru dealer(Hodges in Ferndale, MI) just under 12 months prior.
I had the car for 10 months and the previous owner had it in for head gaskets at 61,000mi. This is when the cam seals and other misc work was done.

Subaru's Parts Warranty is 12 months, but they don't want to cover a new engine because of a cam seal or anything like this. Especially on a car out of powertrain warranty. In this case service history isn't even going to help according to customer service reps.
I got 500 SubieBucks and that covered part of the $1500 diagnosis. I also received a blanket and mug for the next time I'm on the side of the road in winter. Which was thoughtful and possibly clairvoyant.
Hodges wasn't going to cover it either because of course not.

No real root cause because no one's too convinced a cam seal puked 4 quarts after 11 months of being fine, but it's all I'm going to get.


The Future

Part 1: Rebuild
Reman Loaded Long Block(same EJ255 WRX) ~$5500 from Y2KImports(Millennium Auto) in Romeo, MI
-New or well cleaned and inspected parts installed by the shop
-I'll personally just clean the turbo, bolt on the manifolds and add a block heater then hook it all up
-That bumps the total parts and service to $7000
-Extraneous costs and depreciation makes the total maybe $10,000
-Same cost total if do it myself or dealer or different combinations of parts generally unless I cheap out and only replace the short block myself which is a bad idea. This way I get a nearly new engine without having to meticulously clean as much stuff myself.
-$10,000 for an oil leak I may have had no way to prevent or see coming makes me sad.

Part 2: Relearn
-Stay stock
-Start using 5w40 rather than the devil's juice, 5w30.
(Every key should come with a QR link to the forum on the tag and no manual.
And the owners are warned to do what the internet tells them before starting the car.
No one would ever leave the lot if they followed that.)
-Let the ECU relearn and be nice for the first 500mi, change oil.
-Then start pushing it before the 1000mi/30day warranty on the long block runs out to find any issues.
-Should start using LearningView and other OBD tools to log, but that may require a reflash at least to stock to enable more access.
I'm not 100% clear on that yet, so more reading required, but ROMraider and a few websites seem good.

Part 3: Reflash
-After warranty is done switch to Cobb v3 with their Stock-ish tune
-Maybe even switch at <1000mi if the engine builders are okay with it
-A couple guys have it and it's way more driveable.
-Apparently it fixes fuel efficiency tuning related issues, i.e. adds proper fuel.

Part 4: Revengencing
-Maybe track the car once or twice without going crazy on tires and suspension, just brakes probably.
-At least go to a few autocrosses again.
-Apparently, I should just hang out in 5th at low throttle, mid rpm on the straights so I don't enter bad parts of the engine tune and architecture.
I can do that, but I don't have to like it.
(See pages ~1-30 of this thread and Maxwell Power's honestly interesting notes)
-Forum wisdom also says I need a better oil pickup, a windage tray, chrome anodized billet aluminum AOS(air oil separator) and several stickers for any track use.
Those are all honestly good, but expensive ideas.
Except the stickers which are neither good nor expensive.


One final side note in a post full of them:
At this point the Subaru warranty on anything is probably worthless for the life of this vehicle.
Even the dealer doing a short block is not going to be covered by Subaru if something happens.
I just find it funny that they devalued their own work and made going to the dealer unlikely at only 72k mi.


If you made it to the bottom you started from the top and now you're here. ->
That joke's going to age poorly, sorry future folks.
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Old 03-12-2018, 12:23 AM   #2188
neg_matnik
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saskabush View Post
Hi folks,

Prepare for an unnecessarily long first post, some sarcasm and pokes at forum knowledge.

tldr
2010 WRX
No mods, completely stock
72,000mi
Lost 4 quarts of oil and oil pressure
Spun rod bearing
Cam seal found misaligned, but only weeping

What's a little different is that no one else seems to be having massive loss of oil.
Just many small leaks that lead eventually to issues, but my engine was clean, surprisingly.


The Event
I heard mechanical knocking while cruising for ~5-10s.
Then stopped the engine as the oil pressure light came on.
Oil was pooled on the skid pan and had splashed onto everything.
Only area on engine that had oil leaking from it was inside timing cover.

I lost 4 quarts in relatively short order.
-20 min since I last stopped and could have seen it in the snow.
-Definitely 4 quarts since the night before. I checked it because I was supposed to start a 1000mi trip. Made it 100mi, not bad right?


The Prognosis
Only diagnosis is that the Cam seal was misaligned and is weeping slowly.
No source of a massive obvious leak or any leak otherwise.

Last people to touch the cam seal was a Subaru dealer(Hodges in Ferndale, MI) just under 12 months prior.
I had the car for 10 months and the previous owner had it in for head gaskets at 61,000mi. This is when the cam seals and other misc work was done.

Subaru's Parts Warranty is 12 months, but they don't want to cover a new engine because of a cam seal or anything like this. Especially on a car out of powertrain warranty. In this case service history isn't even going to help according to customer service reps.
I got 500 SubieBucks and that covered part of the $1500 diagnosis. I also received a blanket and mug for the next time I'm on the side of the road in winter. Which was thoughtful and possibly clairvoyant.
Hodges wasn't going to cover it either because of course not.

No real root cause because no one's too convinced a cam seal puked 4 quarts after 11 months of being fine, but it's all I'm going to get.


The Future

Part 1: Rebuild
Reman Loaded Long Block(same EJ255 WRX) ~$5500 from Y2KImports(Millennium Auto) in Romeo, MI
-New or well cleaned and inspected parts installed by the shop
-I'll personally just clean the turbo, bolt on the manifolds and add a block heater then hook it all up
-That bumps the total parts and service to $7000
-Extraneous costs and depreciation makes the total maybe $10,000
-Same cost total if do it myself or dealer or different combinations of parts generally unless I cheap out and only replace the short block myself which is a bad idea. This way I get a nearly new engine without having to meticulously clean as much stuff myself.
-$10,000 for an oil leak I may have had no way to prevent or see coming makes me sad.

Part 2: Relearn
-Stay stock
-Start using 5w40 rather than the devil's juice, 5w30.
(Every key should come with a QR link to the forum on the tag and no manual.
And the owners are warned to do what the internet tells them before starting the car.
No one would ever leave the lot if they followed that.)
-Let the ECU relearn and be nice for the first 500mi, change oil.
-Then start pushing it before the 1000mi/30day warranty on the long block runs out to find any issues.
-Should start using LearningView and other OBD tools to log, but that may require a reflash at least to stock to enable more access.
I'm not 100% clear on that yet, so more reading required, but ROMraider and a few websites seem good.

Part 3: Reflash
-After warranty is done switch to Cobb v3 with their Stock-ish tune
-Maybe even switch at
That joke's going to age poorly, sorry future folks.
Welcome to the forums ! Pretty solid first post, IMO, very entertaining for sure :-).
I know the amount of money and time it takes to fix our EJs is not fun; especially this spun bearing issue because metal flakes get in hard to clean places.
But, it seems like you have a good plan to get it fixed properly; it's going to work out.
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Old 03-19-2018, 01:01 PM   #2189
BrandonDrums
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Certainly a good plan given the circumstances. Oil loss will kill bearings even if the bearings were fine, your situation is a bit different than most of the failures here as it is 100% oil pressure loss related.

You might be able to call up your insurance and get accelerated depreciation on your car due to the failure. Basically they'll write you a check for the estimated loss in value of the car. Then they'll reduce the estimated value of the vehicle so if a future accident happens they'd adjust based on a lower assumed resale value of the automobile.

I only heard about this recently. Just about anyone on this thread with a newer vehicle with full coverage experiencing failures with or without warranty coverage may qualify for an accelerated depreciation claim.

Tons of info on the web, just google "Accelerated depreciation car insurance claim"
https://www.taylorconway.ca/personal...-depreciation/
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Old 03-24-2018, 12:13 PM   #2190
Saskabush
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Thanks I'll have to call and ask about that accelerated depreciation because that's a hidden cost to this sort of thing.

I wouldn't buy an engine swapped car for normal market value and don't expect anyone else to.
Especially the ones I see that have <10,000 mi on the new engine although i can understand wanting to be free of the vehicle.
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Old 03-27-2018, 12:54 PM   #2191
jhullmusic
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Hello Sir,
I have a 2013 wrx 2.5L hatch/zero mods and 57,000 miles on it. I bought it from the dealer used at 30,000 miles. I took mine in for service recently due to a loud knocking that starts around 2200rpms. Unfortunately, i believe the previous owner (assuming 16 y/o tuner kid) tore the **** out of it, because I've had to replace the clutch at about 44,000. I should have said something when i bought it, but the clutch pedal was so tight (maybe by the dealer) that i thought maybe it's just a newer clutch and that's the reason it was so long and didn't engage til the floor. However, this was my first Sub, and each manufacturer has different clutches. Either way, I purchased the extended warranty which thus far has not helped in any way. I'm a little worried that it may be the case with this as well. Took it to the dealer for service and they said it's going to be about a week. I love my Sub and i baby the crap out of it. Since your a cert Sub tech I'm wondering your opinions. have you seen these types of things before? Is this something that's generally covered under warranty? I'm a nuub, and I don't want to say something that the dealers will take advantage of, and rape me.
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Old 03-29-2018, 03:33 PM   #2192
Mandrich
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Rod bearing failed in my 2014 at 30K miles. All stock and religious dealer maintenance. Rebuild was covered under drivetrain warranty. Research I've done indicates this issue is due to poor design and may happen again. Minty 2014 WRX premium wagon going up for sale in the Chi-land area this spring. I'm not gambling on a ~$6K repair out of warranty.
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Old 04-03-2018, 11:11 AM   #2193
swissmochaj
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Default Spun Bearing

Ughhhhhhhhh. My tdo4 failed on my 2008 wrx. Thought hey i can get a used vf52 and a tune for the price of a new Td04!
I replaced the the turbo, Noticed oil in intake pipe and intercooler, cleaned them both out. removed the banjo bolt turbo oil feed screen, changed the oil (didn't see any metal in the oil) ran the car at idle for a while and drove it 20 miles to the tuner(never getting into boost) car sounded great i was tempted to hit boost because of how well it was doing.
Got the car to the tuner and we got it on the Dyno and started tuning(ECU flash. I dont have a Cobb.) Car was doing great on the dyno no Knocks or pre ignition Tuner was very happy how the car was reacting and so was I! He knew I wasn't looking for racecar performance so the tune was mild. I believe it was 13 lbs of boost. ended up with 205 HP on the dyno. He said with it being such a mild tune i shouldnt have any trouble with dealing with shops or dealership if any issues arose. He said he too would look at it. Anyhow.....
The test drive...I hate thinking about this. He told me to put my foot in it. I did and i hit red line and over boosted. Poof CEL came on and cars power completely and instantly cut out. He said "oh we hit over boost ill just bump it up to 17 so it will never happen again" " oK no biggie" I said. ran the car hard for a few more runs damn near redlining every gear. The last pull before the spun bearing was a hard down shift and speed speed shifting back to higher gear. during this sequence i heard the dreaded rattle. " Dude i just hurt the motor. you hear it?" I said to tuner. "Yup I hear it." now im not sure if he could see the Knock or detonation in real time that caused the bearing to spin or not but it made me go from cloud nine to dang near jump off a cliff.
Now im gettting a short block swapped but im super nervous as to why i spun the bearing? I dont want to put a new short block in it and have it spin another bearing right away. The car has 107000 on it and I didnt maintain the car well at all. Slacking on oil changes.
Will the guy swapping the block be able to tell why it failed if it was mechanical and not due to poor maintenance (which was likely the cause) The car never really got driven that hard as hard as i was driving it that day.
Im super nervous about spinning another bearing. Can yall please put my mind at ease lol
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Old 04-09-2018, 03:42 PM   #2194
BrandonDrums
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swissmochaj View Post
Ughhhhhhhhh. My tdo4 failed on my 2008 wrx. Thought hey i can get a used vf52 and a tune for the price of a new Td04!
I replaced the the turbo, Noticed oil in intake pipe and intercooler, cleaned them both out. removed the banjo bolt turbo oil feed screen, changed the oil (didn't see any metal in the oil) ran the car at idle for a while and drove it 20 miles to the tuner(never getting into boost) car sounded great i was tempted to hit boost because of how well it was doing.
Got the car to the tuner and we got it on the Dyno and started tuning(ECU flash. I dont have a Cobb.) Car was doing great on the dyno no Knocks or pre ignition Tuner was very happy how the car was reacting and so was I! He knew I wasn't looking for racecar performance so the tune was mild. I believe it was 13 lbs of boost. ended up with 205 HP on the dyno. He said with it being such a mild tune i shouldnt have any trouble with dealing with shops or dealership if any issues arose. He said he too would look at it. Anyhow.....
The test drive...I hate thinking about this. He told me to put my foot in it. I did and i hit red line and over boosted. Poof CEL came on and cars power completely and instantly cut out. He said "oh we hit over boost ill just bump it up to 17 so it will never happen again" " oK no biggie" I said. ran the car hard for a few more runs damn near redlining every gear. The last pull before the spun bearing was a hard down shift and speed speed shifting back to higher gear. during this sequence i heard the dreaded rattle. " Dude i just hurt the motor. you hear it?" I said to tuner. "Yup I hear it." now im not sure if he could see the Knock or detonation in real time that caused the bearing to spin or not but it made me go from cloud nine to dang near jump off a cliff.
Now im gettting a short block swapped but im super nervous as to why i spun the bearing? I dont want to put a new short block in it and have it spin another bearing right away. The car has 107000 on it and I didnt maintain the car well at all. Slacking on oil changes.
Will the guy swapping the block be able to tell why it failed if it was mechanical and not due to poor maintenance (which was likely the cause) The car never really got driven that hard as hard as i was driving it that day.
Im super nervous about spinning another bearing. Can yall please put my mind at ease lol
I can't tell you how much this sounds like my original rod-bearing failure. Way back when my 2.0L engine failed, I too wasn't the best at maintaining the car..well I didn't slack on oil change intervals but I was someone who didn't buy into all the hype about using thicker, higher-quality oil or monitoring my tune or getting the right parts...had lots of ebay stuff that I'd never use now. (certain parts from ebay...fine..others though need to be properly engineered. for another thread)

So...it blew up at the tuner...mostly their fault, overboosting, injector scaling off causing a perfect storm but not having safeguards in having fresh high-quality oil and using crappy off-the-shelf maps without properly data logging and confirming I wasn't damaging anything certainly set the stage.

I'll tell you right off that dyno tuning sessions will get NEVER your car fully nicely tuned for all conditions no matter how good the tuner is. You NEED a road tune which honestly means YOU taking the time to learn how to datalog and identify issues. Even if it's an off the shelf map, checking to make sure it's not causing any knock, lean conditions, boost oscillations or overshoots etc. is important just to confirm everything's good.

Anyway, for the rebuild, I actually have a pretty detailed write-up bringing in all the factoids from years of discussion on this thread together. Some of the best known tuners and engine builders as well as some of the most experienced NASIOC members went deep into discussion over several years on this thread so I summarized as best I could in post #1. Read that, then come back here with questions. But honestly if you took the time to read through this whole thread you'll probably come across everything you'd need to know to have a successful rebuild.

Good luck,
B
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Old 04-09-2018, 03:55 PM   #2195
BrandonDrums
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhullmusic View Post
Hello Sir,
I have a 2013 wrx 2.5L hatch/zero mods and 57,000 miles on it. I bought it from the dealer used at 30,000 miles. I took mine in for service recently due to a loud knocking that starts around 2200rpms. Unfortunately, i believe the previous owner (assuming 16 y/o tuner kid) tore the **** out of it, because I've had to replace the clutch at about 44,000. I should have said something when i bought it, but the clutch pedal was so tight (maybe by the dealer) that i thought maybe it's just a newer clutch and that's the reason it was so long and didn't engage til the floor. However, this was my first Sub, and each manufacturer has different clutches. Either way, I purchased the extended warranty which thus far has not helped in any way. I'm a little worried that it may be the case with this as well. Took it to the dealer for service and they said it's going to be about a week. I love my Sub and i baby the crap out of it. Since your a cert Sub tech I'm wondering your opinions. have you seen these types of things before? Is this something that's generally covered under warranty? I'm a nuub, and I don't want to say something that the dealers will take advantage of, and rape me.
Sorry, I'm not a tech...perhaps someone else is here though, I'm sure there is so perhaps you're referencing them.

That being said, just play dumb about whatever you might think about the previous owner...You didn't buy a car from that person whoever they might be. You bought a car FROM a dealershop that was checked out by the dealer and given an extended warranty you paid good money for FROM subaru. Who cares who the previous owner is, the point of buying from a dealer and getting a warranty means none of that is your problem.

YOU drive the car like a responsible adult and they, as responsible adults and businesspeople should honor their warranty plain and simple. If they sold you a car AND a warranty and somehow are now claiming it had issues from the previous owner that you have to pay for they are breaking the law. They should have paid for the clutch IMO (allthough that is a wear item) and they absolutely will have to pay for the engine which is NOT a wear item. If they try to claim the previous kid damaged it, get a lawyer and sue them for the repair or a full refund plus legal fees. Not kidding.

There's actually tons of information about lemon laws and how to file complaints. There are even more attorneys that deal with this stuff in your area.
https://oag.ca.gov/consumers/general/cars

Read your extended warranty, if they somehow snuck in a section where items damaged before you purchased the car would not be covered they might try to wiggle out of it. But selling a car with a damaged engine isn't legal and the type of failure doesn't take 27,000 miles to manifest once damage occurs, on both grounds you should be prepared to push back. If they try to wiggle out of it I'd say it's worth 1-2k to lawyer up and sue for the repair of the vehicle and hope you can get legal costs out of them too. But 1-2k for a full rebuild is better than you spending the 6-7k they'll likely charge after tax.

In short, you should 100% be covered and even if they fight you, have the confidence to know you're in the right this time.

Last edited by BrandonDrums; 04-09-2018 at 04:14 PM.
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Old 05-11-2018, 02:47 PM   #2196
SoapBox
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Pulled a broken piston out of one of the extended family's two stock LGTs a bit ago...

Just today, the other LGT has left my brother's wife and 2 year old on the side of the highway, 100 miles from home. Big bottom end failure, stock engine it's whole life, full of oil (owned by a mechanic).

Subaru has lost the following of a large/once loyal following with these POSs.

I'll be sure the door hits me on the way out.
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Old 05-11-2018, 02:53 PM   #2197
Delphi
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Originally Posted by SoapBox View Post
Pulled a broken piston out of one of the extended family's two stock LGTs a bit ago...

Just today, the other LGT has left my brother's wife and 2 year old on the side of the highway, 100 miles from home. Big bottom end failure, stock engine it's whole life, full of oil (owned by a mechanic).

Subaru has lost the following of a large/once loyal following with these POSs.

I'll be sure the door hits me on the way out.
I bet the pickup broke.
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Old 05-13-2018, 09:49 AM   #2198
DarioClem
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Default spun bearing

Add me to the list.
2013 WRX 104k km, just out of warranty.
Lent my boss my car to go see a client, came back with rod knock.
..he feels terrible about it so I guess its time to ask for a raise.

Still trying to figure out if I rebuild or replace.
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Old 05-14-2018, 09:00 AM   #2199
D-rock240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delphi View Post
I bet the pickup broke.
I replaced mine with a KillerB during the 60k service. Worth it for peace of mind.
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Old 05-15-2018, 04:03 PM   #2200
Genetics
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Just wanted to share my experience. I bought a 06 wrx limited off this guy near long island. Advertised with new block appx 5000 miles. (Straight lie) it ran fine just needed a little exhaust work. I drove it home about 4 hrs just fine started inspecting it when I made it home, Found the cat was 100% clogged. Up pipe back right off the bat. Ripped it around for around 3 months then one day after pulling hard on some random Mazda on the highway I developed the knock. When I hit town had to stop at intersections it would stall out. Did a tons of research went the timing belt way it with hopes Id get lucky. It showed signs of abnormal wear frayed edges and a dark impression down the entire middle of the belt. That's gotta be it! A bad idler or tensioner! One gates timing kit later nope! Made friend with a local Subaru guy who I purchased nice body panels off, turns out he swaps for a living sold me his 2.5 STI motor and swapped it in for $3600. It runs wonderfully now! It's really a shame how many people this has happened to. Buy for me that motor that was originally in it when i purchased was well over a 100K miles. I got duped and i payed for it. :/ I just chalk it up to hey I just payed the extra for leather seats! Lol!
Still love subies Tho!
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