Great, I have had the car for 9 days (yes, I drive a lot) and I got a CEL. This sucks. How do I find the code to determine what it is? Should I just take it back to teh dealer? I don't wanna be without my car cuz I need it to get to work to pay for the car...it's a vicious cycle.

Assuming that it's running normally... You can either reset the ECU and see if it comes back. Take it into the dealership when you have time and have them pull the code. If you need a car, ask for a loaner. It's all covered under warranty.

remove the neg connection for the battery for about 30-45 mins.

Even better, try calling your dealer and explaining your dilema (I just bought one of your friggin' new cars and the g'damn'd check engine light is on already and "I don't wanna be without my car cuz I need it to get to work to pay for the car"). Maybe they can work something out?

take it back to the dealership asap.

If you reset the ecu by pulling the battery cable, it'll clear the CEL and clear it from memory... you'll never know what caused it. It takes less than a minute to pull the code... translated into dealer time, maybe an hour... try sweet talking the service guy, maybe he can slip you in quick like. Ask for a loaner for the day if they're going to keep it for any length of time.

Just drive into the service area and ask the service manager to pull a code. It takes two minutes, tops. Loaner cars??

Having the CEL code pulled is best. DO NOT RESET !
if you swing into ANY subaru dealership, they should be able to pull the code in under 2 minutes. If the light is solid it is usually not uber-critical, if it is blinking or flashing get to a dealer right away. Common cel codes are fuel cap loose, and misfiring, 2 percieved misfires set off the light, I had a #3 cylinder misfire and it was reset at the dealer and it hasn't come back.

IMPREZive 02 WRX, when you go to dealership and have them pull the code ask them if by reseting it by disconnecting the neg connection. Does it really delete the code from memory? I've been told that the code is still there but you just clear the CEL.

OK, here's the thing. The check engine light is still on, and the turbo spools up REALLY fast...but no extra umph after that, so I suppose it's leaking boost somewhere. That could be anything...loose/broken hose, stuck wastegate/BOV, or something really bad. Maybe the CEL makes the car blow off boost, I dunno. I went to the dealer today, but got there after hours, so they won't get to it until tomorrow. I'll keep y'all updated.

off the topic of the CEL, you know that boost does drop off quite a bit after 5500 or so.

got the same exact CEL.....came on out of the blue....engine misfired below 3k and had no boost at all....suspect this was the dreaded "limp" mode....shut the car off...called the subaru tow line...took it to the dealer on a flatbed (don't ever let 'em talk you into the dolly truck tow where the guy says..."i'll disconnect the driveshaft", etc....ha! right!)....anyways, the dealer claimed there was no record of a CEL....got the car back a couple of days later and it has run fine ever since....i even took it to a second dealer for another opinion...again, no record of the CEL....in hindsight, i think if i would have shut the car down and let it sit for a while it probably would have ran fine....take it to the dealer anyways, but don't sweat it....she'll be alright! keep in mind, the ECU is supposedly REAL sensitive....maybe bad gas, maybe just a little blip, hell! look at what we put up with from microsoft!

OK, just ran out to get a bite to eat, and the check engine light went off. That's funny, the car still doesn't seem to have the extra top end. Let's see what tomorrow has in store for me. If everything's ok with teh car, I'll have my up pipe and BOV soon.

er.... even if the CEL went off by itself, take your car to the dealer to have them check it out... especially if you are going to be modding it....

after you install the uppipe.. the dealer may be a PITA and refuse to do warrantee work... make sure your car's ok before doing that mod!