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Old 09-03-2008, 06:55 PM   #1
Hokie-wrx wagon
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Default Assembling front suspension... is this correct? (pic inside)

From top to bottom:

1. Top nut
2. Strut top
3. Conical washer (big side downward)
4. Upper perch
5. Upper spring seat (rubber thing)
6. Spring (insulator installed)
7. Strut (bump stop and dust boot on strut)

Am I missing anything?



I need to run to the store to get a deep 19mm socket for the top nut.

Also, I'm using spring compressors. Is the following assembly correct?

1. Compress spring
2. Put compressed spring in place on lower spring perch on strut
3. Put upper spring seat/perch/conical washer/tophat.
4. Put on top nut to start the threading
5. UNCOMPRESS spring so top nut is holding spring in place
6. Torque top nut down (on uncompressed spring) to spec (40 ft/lbs).

Thanks!
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Old 09-03-2008, 07:02 PM   #2
RaceComp Engineering
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yes, but make sure you align the 3 holes on the top black perch with the lower clevis tabs on the bottom of the strut.

ALSO I would try to use a dust cover too....as the shaft wont last long with road grime on it.

Myles
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Old 09-03-2008, 07:04 PM   #3
seanvetter123
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top nut is 17mm actually
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Old 09-03-2008, 07:07 PM   #4
Hokie-wrx wagon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceComp Engineering View Post
yes, but make sure you align the 3 holes on the top black perch with the lower clevis tabs on the bottom of the strut.

ALSO I would try to use a dust cover too....as the shaft wont last long with road grime on it.

Myles
Thanks for the quick reply. Gotcha on aligning the holes on the top perch with the clevis tabs (assuming you mean where the two large strut bolts are).

Questions:

- I forgot to put the dust cover on for the pic. Does that just sit freely on to strut shaft on do I need to connect it to something? Right now it just moves up/down loosely.

- How far should I thread the top nut on the strut before uncompressing the spring?

Thanks!
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Old 09-03-2008, 07:08 PM   #5
Hokie-wrx wagon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seanvetter123 View Post
top nut is 17mm actually
It's 19mm on the Tokico Dspecs... stock might be 17mm.
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Old 09-03-2008, 07:13 PM   #6
Hokie-wrx wagon
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Also... does the bump stop go inside the dust boot? (A)

Or does the bump stop go on top of the dust boot. (B)

Uploading pics in a sec....

(A) - see below



(B) - see below

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Old 09-03-2008, 10:38 PM   #7
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Put the bump stop inside the dust boot.
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Old 09-04-2008, 01:02 AM   #8
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I just want to thank you for asking clear questions and illustrating them well with good photographs. Both of your threads have resulted in people actually being able to help you. That's something a lot of NASIOC posters need to learn.

BRAVO!
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Old 09-04-2008, 01:06 AM   #9
seanvetter123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hokie-wrx wagon View Post
It's 19mm on the Tokico Dspecs... stock might be 17mm.
o woops didnt know it was a tokico

and i believe that the dust boot should actually hook onto the tophat, atleast on the rears.
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Old 09-04-2008, 01:25 AM   #10
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The front dust boot is held up by the bumpstop. The rear dust book actually hooks onto the strut mount.
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Old 09-04-2008, 07:41 AM   #11
Hokie-wrx wagon
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Fronts assembled! Thanks for the help guys!



The rears were also assembled, but I found out I need to pick up a 14mm washers for the rear. So they are disassembled again.
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Old 09-04-2008, 12:45 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hokie-wrx wagon View Post
The rears were also assembled, but I found out I need to pick up a 14mm washers for the rear. So they are disassembled again.
Great pics!

BTW... what is the 14mm washer in the rear for?
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Old 09-04-2008, 12:48 PM   #13
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It makes sure the nut can come tight onto the stack before it jams against the blind portion of the shaft. Without the washer, the nut will tighten up against the ends of the threads without actually coming tight onto the strut mount.
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Old 09-04-2008, 02:09 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williaty View Post
It makes sure the nut can come tight onto the stack before it jams against the blind portion of the shaft. Without the washer, the nut will tighten up against the ends of the threads without actually coming tight onto the strut mount.
Yep! I picked up some 1/2" grade 8 washers at the auto parts store. I think they might be a little small though (12.7mm). They didn't have 14mm washers so I took a chance.
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Old 11-20-2008, 08:40 PM   #15
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Hokie... did you by chance take pics of the assembly of the rear?
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Old 11-20-2008, 11:04 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceComp Engineering View Post
yes, but make sure you align the 3 holes on the top black perch with the lower clevis tabs on the bottom of the strut.
You only need to do this for the rears. The front mounts have a ball bearing in them that should allow the mount to rotate freely (to allow movement for steering). Check that this can move freely before putting them on the vehicle, if you forget the conical washer it can bind like this.
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Old 11-20-2008, 11:20 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XmanSTi View Post
You only need to do this for the rears. The front mounts have a ball bearing in them that should allow the mount to rotate freely (to allow movement for steering). Check that this can move freely before putting them on the vehicle, if you forget the conical washer it can bind like this.
That's not correct. He's talking about the upper spring perch, not the tophat. The upper spring perch has to be lined up correctly, with the middle of the 3 holes between the parts of the clevis. You're describing the tophat.
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Old 11-21-2008, 06:39 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chimchimm5 View Post
Hokie... did you by chance take pics of the assembly of the rear?
Yeah... I think I have another thread about that. I can post the pics here though.
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Old 11-21-2008, 06:41 AM   #19
Hokie-wrx wagon
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Here's the rear suspension:



Here's how the Scooby921 spacer slides over the D Specs shaft:

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Old 11-21-2008, 12:38 PM   #20
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Awesome! Thanks Hokie!

Question... did the D-specs come with the top nut and washer in the top of your picture below?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hokie-wrx wagon View Post
Here's the rear suspension:


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Old 11-21-2008, 01:38 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chimchimm5 View Post
Question... did the D-specs come with the top nut and washer in the top of your picture below?
Top nut comes with the D-Specs, washer comes with the Group N rear strut mounts, Scooby921 Spacer comes with airplanes and army men.
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Old 11-21-2008, 01:42 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williaty View Post
Top nut comes with the D-Specs, washer comes with the Group N rear strut mounts, Scooby921 Spacer comes with airplanes and army men.
No more airplanes. No more army men. We're on to a new goodie now.
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Old 12-02-2008, 01:23 AM   #23
chimchimm5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hokie-wrx wagon View Post
Yep! I picked up some 1/2" grade 8 washers at the auto parts store. I think they might be a little small though (12.7mm). They didn't have 14mm washers so I took a chance.
Did these 1/2" washers work?
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Old 12-03-2008, 08:52 PM   #24
wtyree
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I'm just now getting around to installing the RCE wagon springs I bought from TiC earlier this year. I've got an 02 wagon and am installing koni inserts, RCE wagon springs and group n top hats. I did get 04+ rear top hats to go with the RCE wagon springs. This thread really helped with the pictures because when I took the top perch off, the conical washer fell out before I could see how it was oriented. Anyways, I'm having a hard time getting the torque on the top nut without the top perch rotating out of alignment. The service manual even calls out a special tool to do this. How have you guys done it? It was already to late in the day to call TiC or RCE. I guess if I don't get an answer before I start again tomorrow I'll give them a call.
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Old 12-03-2008, 09:30 PM   #25
williaty
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I compress the heck out of the springs with the spring compressor. Then I hold the upper spring perch in one hand and use the other to tighten the nut 99% of the time, holding onto the upper spring perch will also prevent the strut shaft from spinning. Once I have the nut tight, I then turn the upper spring perch (since it's now bound to the strut shaft, they turn together) to the correct alignment and then loosen the spring compressors. It's definitely a fiddly business. Just have patience.
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