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Old 10-29-2016, 03:35 AM   #1
slide
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Default Battery isolator wiring

I am going to run the Cartek GT battery isolator. It was in hopes for an easier install for both internal and external electrical shutoff ability.

From how I am reading the instructions :
http://www.cartekmotorsport.com/CART...structions.pdf

It seems to be similar to the 6 pin "key" set up that most people use for a single point cut off or isolator. Meaning the one pin for the ignition switch cut off.

I need to find a way to shut the ecu off. I think it may be the "green wire" from the tumbler, which is a 15a line from fuse 12... Something about FB-38....

I am running twin bosch pumps after the surge tank and was using the factory fuel pump signal to run the relays. I was going to switch all three of the pumps' signal wires to a wire that comes from the cartek isolator. So when it is switched off, then no pump will be triggered. But if the next posts info holds true, then it will all be connected if I get it right.

Can anyone in the know with a Gr give me a cheat sheet as to the wire color and location for the iginition that I need to tap this into?
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Last edited by slide; 10-29-2016 at 04:05 AM.
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Old 10-29-2016, 04:03 AM   #2
slide
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Old 10-29-2016, 04:43 AM   #3
funk32
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interesting way of going about it. I am using the Arm Tech solution, which seems much easier. If you kill the all power going to the fuse box then the ECU dies. But I see yours doesnt separate the alt from the system.

http://www.armtech.co.uk/70BC06.pdf

20160220_151017 by David, on Flickr

Last edited by funk32; 10-29-2016 at 05:42 AM.
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Old 10-29-2016, 10:56 PM   #4
leonbmx
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Those products both look awesome, I'm especially impressed by the armtech's simple install.

Just for my reference, and I'm in no way trying to Hijack the thread, but how do these products differ from this?: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/do...ocID=TECH00109

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Old 10-30-2016, 12:15 AM   #5
slide
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I haven't looked terribly close at the armtech, but the reason I went with the Cartek is that i don't have to run really long thick power wires and it has a soft kill for the ecu circuit.

It's also real easy to run multiple kill buttons/switches.

The key type isolator that you have posted, requires running the power wire a long distance into the cab and back, and then where ever else ifnyou want or are required multiple kill switch locations.
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Old 11-02-2016, 06:15 PM   #6
remski
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Well..

Why dont you use connection from Fuse #12.
Looks like it it powers the ECM.

You could pull the fuse #12 while the car is running to make sure it works.

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Old 11-02-2016, 08:34 PM   #7
slide
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Car isn't running. Awaiting some clean weather and me to not be literally failing apart, so the cage and paint and new pipe work can get done...

In the mean time, it's new fuel lines, fire system, electrical cut off, door cards...can't remember what else... if I could get under the car I'd be working on aero...

As a matter of fact... the brains behind this operation has hidden the ecu from it for fear I will some how corrupt it magically. I just get near computers and they stop working.
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Old 04-27-2018, 02:39 AM   #8
WRX8XB
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Did you ever figure out a solution?

Iím getting a warning from the cartek for over 40amp (4 flashes).

Iíve got it branched off the ignition switch currently and the isolator isnít happy.

Any other ideas out there to use this with the factory ECU?
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Old 10-12-2018, 10:09 PM   #9
ryolse
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Anyone else out there figured out how to get the CarTek to kill the engine when running?
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