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10-12-2018, 12:03 AM | #2001 | |
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Member#: 64665
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: WA
Vehicle:1997 Toyota Blurple |
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10-14-2018, 08:33 AM | #2002 |
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Member#: 68964
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: ATL burbs - need directions?
Vehicle:Some f'd-up old cars f'd-up old sportbikes too |
I knew better, but I did it anyway....
Don't buy the cheap no-name Chinese-manufactured spare parts, unless you like "working on a car" more than "fixing a car" or "having a working car." Sure, some of the parts are perfectly fine. And if you just really need to get it working for a couple of years before getting rid of it, and money is tight, I can understand why you wouldn't want to put a pair of $68 inner tie rods and a $120 set of motor mounts on a 230,000 mile car. "I'm gonna scrap this car in two years and it'll just be a pile of metal with perfectly good tie rods and motor mounts in the middle. Those parts will go another 200,000 miles, but this car will be scrapped in 30,000; seems like a waste. The $21 tie rods and $32 motor mounts will be fine for the next year or two." But if you might keep the car a while, and/or want to make efficient use of your car repair time and effort, you do not necessarily want the cheapest part someone can slap together. The cheap motor mounts I bought did sort of fit, in that all the holes were the right size and in the right place so things theoretically lined up. But the mount bracket was differently shaped, with a straight edge where the OEM part has a graceful little recurve stamped into it, and it turns out that this curve lets it clear the transmission. So, you have to spend time grinding out some metal so that it doesn't interfere with the transmission when you mount the crossmember with your new motor mounts installed back up under the engine. Oh, also, the OEM rubber motor mounts got replaced at 230,000 miles, and by 260,000 miles it needed motor mounts again because the rubber was disintegrating, because of course the rubber is not the same either. Same with the tie rods, where the OEM stuff lasted decades and the cheapest replacement ones 1) don't mount correctly, and 2) don't last. For 1), there is a tab with little ears you bend down after threading it into the steering rack, so you can turn the tie rod to adjust the toe without unthreading it from rack; it spins in a ball&socket and the tab keeps it in place. The cheap aftermarket one has insufficiently large ears to really hold it in place, and also the threads are not machined as well, and also the metal isn't heat treated like the OEM one, and also the rubber boot isn't as durable. So the inside part doesn't stay seated in the rack, and the outside part develops play in the ball joint, and the rod itself bends, and the bellows disintegrates and compromise the integrity of the sockets. So basically all the things about tie rods that can fail and make you need tie rods after 230,000 miles or so, are going to fail after about another 40,000 miles. No problem if you're only planning to make it to 260,000 miles or so, but a huge waste of time if you're trying to make it last "as long as you can." I have a friend who does mostly Corvettes as a side gig, he's a full-time NASA engineer but has a shop with a couple of employees. And he refuses to order anything but the OEM stuff for a customer car. It will cost him more to pay his guys to make the crappy part fit than he'll save in parts cost, and it'll be back in a year or two with a pissed off customer needing the same work done again. I did the last oil change on the Maxima yesterday, it has 295,000 on it and my goal is to see it to 300,000. And I threaded a tie rod back into the steering rack and bent the poor excuse for a tab back over it; it should be fine as long as nobody adjusts the outer rod the wrong way, and nobody will, because it has seen the alignment shop for the last time. I don't care that the bellows has failed, because by the time the inner joint is corroded the rest of the car will be a cube; same for motor mounts. And when I do the repair and deferred maintenance on the 2001 E46 convertible, I know better than to get the no-name parts. The cheap control arm is half the price of the good one, but I don't want to do that job again in two years, I want to just drive it. |
10-14-2018, 08:59 AM | #2003 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 137902
Join Date: Jan 2007
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MWSOC
Location: traverse city, Mi skeletor
Vehicle:---- living life to the least!! |
good points there, Bill!!
So I was never sure as i've never been in to the inner tie rods area. when I pop the outer tie-rod off the steering arm, and then turn the whole assembly does that change anything? I was never really sure how they're attached in there. I have an'04 grand caravan that pulls slightly to the right. I was going to try adjusting it, just a little even by myself, but i couldn't get the ball joint to break loose from the rod...i'll need to soak it a few times with PB or maybe get some good heat on it... edit: off to youtube repair school!! Last edited by Meat Supply; 10-14-2018 at 09:24 AM. |
10-14-2018, 10:23 AM | #2004 | |
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Member#: 6590
Join Date: May 2001
Location: **** this server...
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However, you can pop them off and turn each end in and out to do the same thing. This is why you always count the number of threads on each end before taking them apart so you can get it pretty close when the new one goes in. |
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10-14-2018, 11:37 AM | #2005 |
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Member#: 68964
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: ATL burbs - need directions?
Vehicle:Some f'd-up old cars f'd-up old sportbikes too |
On most of the ones I’ve seen, you don’t have to pop a ball joint out of the steering knuckle to change the adjustment. You loosen a jam nut and spin the inner tie rod, which threads into and out of the outer tie rod end; the outer tie rod end’s ball joint stays mounted in the steering knuckle, and threading the inner tie rod into and out of the outer tie rod is what changes the toe. In theory, the inner tie rod spins in its own ball and socket, and it doesn’t affect how tight it stays on the steering rack. On my car, spinning it one way will unthread that socket from where it threads into the steering rack, because the threads are looser than they should be and the ball/socket binds more than it should.
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10-14-2018, 12:23 PM | #2006 | |
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Member#: 137902
Join Date: Jan 2007
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Location: traverse city, Mi skeletor
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10-17-2018, 11:23 PM | #2007 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 273906
Join Date: Feb 2011
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: U.S. (Рос
Vehicle:2005 Lexus Grandpa |
Hey guys,
I'm utterly confused right now and just looking for more insight. I have a 1993 Dakota. It had a V6 motor and a 5-speed manual. When I would drop into neutral or push the clutch in coming to a stop, the RPMs would sometimes drop and it would occasionally stall. Sometimes it would catch itself and the RPMs would go up again. If it stalled, it would always started immediately back up and idled smooth. It did not stall if depressing the clutch and shifting to first at idle, as would be done from a stop. It's really only when the RPMs are already dropping after depressing the clutch/shifting to neutral, they dropped too far. I never figured the problem out. Now, I have swapped the V6 for a V8 from a donor truck, retaining the manual transmission. ALL of the engine wiring and sensors and the PCM are from the V8. The fuel system is from the V8 donor truck. The V8 donor truck did not have a stalling issue, but it also had an automatic transmission. Still stalling, with the exact same symptoms and frequency as always. O2 sensor was throwing a code so I replaced that. No dice. Thought maybe it was a clogged cat. I unbolted the headers so the backpressure could escape. No luck, still stalling. No vacuum leaks that I can find. TL/DR: '93 Dakota, was stalling when dropping into neutral or disengaging the clutch coming to a stop. Replaced motor and entire engine harness and PCM with proven good parts, replaced O2, eliminated clogged cat as a possibility. Still stalling, zero change in pattern. Any thoughts? Last edited by tibug; 10-17-2018 at 11:30 PM. |
10-18-2018, 12:04 AM | #2008 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 254958
Join Date: Aug 2010
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Have you checked or replaced the IAC on the new motor? It would be strange to have both engines suffer from the same thing if the IAC is not common between but would not be impossible as IAC problems are common on numerous cars.
Also check the TPS, it may be out of range. |
10-18-2018, 12:30 AM | #2009 |
Member Status: Member
Member#: 46241
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Orison, Crusader. Stanton
Vehicle:- Can I get a wayo |
Good options.
Check the butterfly for excessive build up, maybe throw a bunch of carb cleaner in there/ sea foam treatment at the worst. |
10-18-2018, 08:30 AM | #2010 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 93193
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Charlotte
Vehicle:'03 325iT Mysticblau |
Did the code go away when you replaced the O2 sensor? It's not uncommon to get an O2 code when the real cause is a vacuum leak causing the car to run lean, and that'll make it try to stall too.
If you've still got a code start hunting for vacuum leaks, old cars have old rubber and that can mean leaks. |
10-18-2018, 04:01 PM | #2011 |
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Member#: 273906
Join Date: Feb 2011
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Location: U.S. (Рос
Vehicle:2005 Lexus Grandpa |
Thanks guys. I drove it today and it was a little better ....of its own accord. Honestly I can't remember the last time it was this good lol. But it wasn't perfect, RPMs were still a little unsettled. I pulled the IAC and it looks pretty bad, gunked and rusted. So I pulled one off a parts motor that looked nicer and cleaned and installed it. A quick test drive says it's A-OK but we'll see. Can never trust a Dodge. Thanks again.
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10-21-2018, 04:21 PM | #2012 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 58504
Join Date: Mar 2004
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Ready to try OpenECU.org!!!
Vehicle:2004 STi Aspen White / Silver |
2007 Dodge Dakota 3.6L V6 4WD.
This is my MIL's vehicle, but I usually do the maintenance on it for her. She's complained about it shutting off the engine without warning while driving twice now. She's been able to shift to neutral and restart it immediately both times and continue driving without issue. No CEL or fault codes stored. I have driven it several times for 30-40min and never noticed anything abnormal. I checked the harnesses to the ECU/PCM but it looks ok...nothing loose. Only other thing I can find that might be the cause is the infamous Camshaft Position Sensor. But without a CEL, I'm not sure if that is really it. Last edited by f4phantomii; 10-21-2018 at 04:43 PM. |
10-21-2018, 07:52 PM | #2013 |
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Location: Momma Didn't Love Me
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I can't say "all" but all fuel injected cars/engines I've have done anything with the Factory ECU would need a speed signal or the engine would stall or nearly stall coming to a stop. Again, I can't say all but over a few different OEM's pre and post ODB2 it's been the case for the limited number engines and cars I've had to deal with.
It's unlikely for something that wouldn't impact emissions would set a MIL. It's odd to me too that 'engine stalling' wouldn't be something someone would suggest would impact emission and set a trouble code. There are many things that will set a code and cause the engine to stall but this hasn't been one of them... that I've seen. You people wouldn't believe the things I've seen. |
10-26-2018, 12:58 AM | #2014 |
Scooby Newbie
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Chapter/Region:
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Location: Oregon
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My buddy and his car issues
recap: 06 Forester, 250k miles. Last summer it blew the headgaskets. Got those replaced, then 40 miles later the gasket on the timing cover got sucked into the belt, skipped the timing, and bent the intake valves. He got that fixed, and it continued pushing coolant into the overflow tank A couple months ago (and only ~3k miles later), he let a friend borrow it. She kept an eye on the coolant in the radiator, but apparently forgot to put the radiator cap back on. She said "There was a huge cloud of smoke, and it died." It was cranking veerrryy fast, so I assumed it had no compression. He just got the motivation to finally work on it. It had no compression on the passenger side, and a little on the driver side (30psi, 80psi with oil). He sent me pictures of the timing belt, and it looked just fine (intact, not skipped). He got the engine pulled and took the heads off, and the valves all look fine too. No coolant in the oil. So, the current theory is that the headgasket(s) failed completely, causing the lack of compression. Although I figured he'd see at least a little compression on the passenger side? |
10-26-2018, 08:32 AM | #2015 |
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Member#: 93193
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Charlotte
Vehicle:'03 325iT Mysticblau |
If it was pushing into the overflow tank then the headgasket has been at least partially failed for some time, now it's completely failed.
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10-26-2018, 08:39 AM | #2016 |
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Member#: 34670
Join Date: Mar 2003
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Vehicle:2016 slowmobile |
That.
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11-07-2018, 07:39 PM | #2017 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 58504
Join Date: Mar 2004
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Ready to try OpenECU.org!!!
Vehicle:2004 STi Aspen White / Silver |
I may have eff'd up.
I had to replace the power steering pressure line. Sucky, messy job, but I got it done. Now my steering sounds like a dying whale, and feels like crap. I still see some bubbles in the reservoir, so despite cycling the steering and driving it around for a few minutes, ut didn not improve. Still saw bubbles in reservoir. And worse, I'm just realizing I refilled with Power Steering Fluid instead of ATF. Major goof on my part. So....which of those two is likely to be the culprit? Should I just drive it around for a few days to get the bubbles out and change the fluid this weekend? Or do I need to change the fluid ASAFP before driving it at all? |
11-07-2018, 07:49 PM | #2018 |
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I suspect the wrong fluid will make the system unhappy. I'd do that first and see if it fixes the issue.
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11-07-2018, 07:51 PM | #2019 | |
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Location: Auburn, WA
Vehicle:2014 Electric Datsun 2005 Adventure van |
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11-07-2018, 07:56 PM | #2020 | |
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Since this thread was bumped I figure I'd update on my brake issue I posted about previously. Found some info indicating that perhaps dirty sensors could be causing low speed faulty readings, and considering the car has 226k miles there's likely gunk on those sensors. When I went to pull and clean all sensors I discovered the passenger rear sensor bolt was loose and the sensor slightly moving. Cleaned all sensors and torqued down, so far no more low speed slipping. I suspect when I did the rear wheel bearings earlier this year I may or may not have fully tightened the ABS sensor. |
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11-07-2018, 08:06 PM | #2021 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 58504
Join Date: Mar 2004
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Vehicle:2004 STi Aspen White / Silver |
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I'll leave it parked overnight and take my daughter's car to work tomorrow. I can pick up some ATF on the way home and change it tomorrow. I guess there's no point working the air out if I'm just going to change the fluid this weekend anyway. I'd just end up having to re-bleed the system again after the fluid change. Thanks. |
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11-07-2018, 08:38 PM | #2022 |
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Vehicle:2017 Backout Rally America Blue |
Update - I haven't done much (battery, washed and put on wiper blades) on the Sonoma. But I have gotten comfortable believing that when reverse doesn't work, it's inside, and I should just get a used 4L60-E for $500, so that will probably happen next month.
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11-08-2018, 09:27 AM | #2023 |
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NESIC
Location: Rich Coast
Vehicle:Pura vida! Yellow V standing by |
Anyone ever run into something like this before?
That is the drain bolt for the Active Yaw Control clutch bath in the rear diff of my Evo V. The picture was taken after I cleaned it thoroughly with a paper towel. Obviously, it should look like this: It looks like melted something. When rubbed against something, it leaves a black mark like charcoal. I didn't notice anything weird when I drained the oil but it was fairly dark under the car and it went down into the drain pan. Weird but the oil is changed so that's about all I can do. |
11-08-2018, 10:53 PM | #2024 |
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Member#: 254958
Join Date: Aug 2010
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I thought it was electrical tape at first, it should be just a magnet so nothing about the bolt should be melting and if something in the diff is melting off why would it consolidate on the bolt like that. Very strange but I really got nothing other than maybe pop the cover and see whats up.
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11-09-2018, 07:05 PM | #2025 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 58504
Join Date: Mar 2004
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I think I'm finally close to getting my power steering sorted out.
After wrestling with bad replacement parts and replacement replacement parts, I got the line swapped, but still had issues. Despite having no fluid leaking anywhere and spending an hour bleeding, bleeding, and re-bleeding, it still had foam and bubbles in the reservoir. I decided to try replacing the o-ring on the suction line at the pump. Bingo....no bubbles now! Just took me all week. |
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