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#26 |
Scooby Specialist
Member Sales Rating: (7)
Member#: 107569
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Vancouver, WA
Vehicle:1998 Forester S SRP |
![]() I have been waiting forever for you to start an account and sell these. And now you do it after I just finished my new shortblock. Oh, well there is always next year.
So when are you going to start making a special block casting with a higher deck height? ![]() ![]()
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Last edited by Brydon; 06-14-2009 at 04:59 AM. |
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#27 |
Scooby Guru
Member Sales Rating: (10)
Member#: 33782
Join Date: Mar 2003
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Milton Keynes, UK
Vehicle:96 3MI Racing search FIRST, then PM!!! |
![]() well taller deck height would definitely bring about some issues with our engine bay and spark plugs, now wouldn't it
![]() I've been doing builds on the side for a while but just kept them to one at a time. Heck the first two prototype kits were sent out almost two years ago. Well as you said, there's always next year. Hope you enjoy actually does treat you well!! |
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#28 |
Scooby Guru
Member Sales Rating: (32)
Member#: 133146
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: SC
Vehicle:07 FPgreen [email protected] WRX VF39+E85 12.0, 121mph |
![]() this guy knows his stuff.... If I had the money I would buy a block from him ASAP.
Micah FTW you have been very helpful TY |
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#29 |
Scooby Guru
Member Sales Rating: (10)
Member#: 33782
Join Date: Mar 2003
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Milton Keynes, UK
Vehicle:96 3MI Racing search FIRST, then PM!!! |
![]() Thanks Juan and you're welcome for the help. I hope to see you get it running well and setting some kind of a record.
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#31 |
Scooby Specialist
Member Sales Rating: (4)
Member#: 7747
Join Date: Jun 2001
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: DC Metro
Vehicle:2004 WRX 5door 5spd 08 E90 M3 |
![]() very interested, 100k miles and time for a refresh on an EJ205. i'm looking for a budget/fun rebuild of my stock 2.0. What supporting mods would be needed to go with the SR kit?
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#32 |
Former Vendor
Vendor Sales Rating: (0)
Member#: 200987
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: VA
|
![]() It doesn't require any supporting modifications. However if your budget can support it, I'd at least recommend doing cams.
This also depends on your current mods. If you'd like more specific setup info, shoot me a PM and let me know if you use the car for anything in particular; be it auto-x, road course, the occassional drag day, etc... -Micah |
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#33 |
Scooby Specialist
Member Sales Rating: (14)
Member#: 126696
Join Date: Sep 2006
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: las vegas
Vehicle:2002 Fatbody bugeye 03 R1 09 Raptor 700R |
![]() what are the limits to your motors?
max rpms? max power? what block would you recommend for track days, the 2.34 or the sleeved 2.45? what oil pump do you recommend be used? when comparing spool up on a 35R sized turbo I'd assume that a 2.34 block with 9:1 compression would have about the same or better spool up do to the reduced rotational mass, is this correct? These questions are for your base LR motors and without anything special just higher compression... |
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#34 |
Former Vendor
Vendor Sales Rating: (0)
Member#: 200987
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: VA
|
![]() 'Max RPM' actually hasn't been found nor has 'max power'. Beta Test motors were never mounted to turbo's larger than 35R's. They have seen over 9000 RPM but not for extended periods of time (due to outrunning the turbos flow/staying in the powerband).
Neither one should be surpased on a track car. The power is ludicrous for most and the high RPM's require higher oil flow (pick up starvation concern). For a track use motor; the 2.34LR would be the less 'fickle' motor as overheating in my opinion is the number one cause for dropped sleeves (required for anything over 2.36L). If you won't have an issue with overheating then I'd say sleeve and bore. I'm working out a deal with a well known tuner to find the limits of the motor as a big bore long rod would be strapped into a drag car. My shortblocks are shipped with a ported and 'blueprinted' 11mm oil pump. I'm working on a larger, gated pan as well but ultimately a drysump system is the ultimate solution. When comparing spool up...what am I comparing it to? |
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#35 |
Scooby Specialist
Member Sales Rating: (14)
Member#: 126696
Join Date: Sep 2006
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: las vegas
Vehicle:2002 Fatbody bugeye 03 R1 09 Raptor 700R |
![]() My fault on not being specific about the spool up question, I was referring to the 2.5 motors in general.
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#36 |
Former Vendor
Vendor Sales Rating: (0)
Member#: 200987
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: VA
|
![]() It is laggier...less displacement and a longer rod ratio.
the 2.45L is laggier only based upon rod ratio really but a bump in CR will help. They are practically the same displacement at the factory EJ257. |
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#37 |
Former Vendor
Vendor Sales Rating: (0)
Member#: 200987
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: VA
|
![]() well as this group buy has kept rolling on; I figured I'd add some information for those interested.
I've made a few simple graphs to demonstrate the differences in the rotating assembly, mainly between the EJ257 and the 3MI Racing Long rod kit. For those interested in the short rod kit, would fall between the EJ257 and Long rod kit, closer to the EJ257. ![]() In this graph, you can see the instantaneous piston acceleration. Acceleration of the piston leaving TDC is the leading caues of rod failures in motors do to stress of the rod trying to pull the piston away from TDC. This also puts great load on the rod bearing, which we all know if a great failure point on our beloved EJ series motors. This graph also displays the differences in dwell at Top Dead Center and Bottom Dead Center. This is where the 'breathing' changes are made in a long vs. shortrod motor. ![]() This graph displays the instantaneous velocities of the two different shortblocks. ![]() This is a graph to purely show the difference in loading via combustion of the various rod ratios. Acceleration and Velocity Data is for both assebmlies at 8500 RPM Oh and bump ![]() Last edited by 3MI Racing; 07-13-2009 at 02:38 PM. |
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#38 |
Scooby Newbie
Member Sales Rating: (0)
Member#: 825
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Kanada
Vehicle:2002 wrx |
![]() Very interesting data. Thank you for posting it!
Here's a site that has a Java animation of piston velocities, acceleration & location. One can plug in different numbers to see the difference a LR setup makes. Hopefully it's accurate! ![]() http://www.wfu.edu/~rollins/piston/animation/graph_1/ |
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#39 |
Scooby Guru
Member Sales Rating: (10)
Member#: 33782
Join Date: Mar 2003
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Milton Keynes, UK
Vehicle:96 3MI Racing search FIRST, then PM!!! |
![]() Yup, I've seen that site before from quite a while back. The formulas all are correct on it. Simple slider crank model.
I'll be posting some 83mm stroker and my SR rod ratio graphs later. Then I'll be giving some further explanation. Really ought to work up a FAQ for rod ratios, if I have the time. |
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#41 | |
Scooby Guru
Member Sales Rating: (10)
Member#: 33782
Join Date: Mar 2003
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Milton Keynes, UK
Vehicle:96 3MI Racing search FIRST, then PM!!! |
![]() Quote:
I know money is an issue for several people who have shown interest. |
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#42 |
Scooby Specialist
Member Sales Rating: (0)
Member#: 156973
Join Date: Aug 2007
Chapter/Region:
International
Location: Adelaide, Australia
Vehicle:2002 ADM WRX STi STi Black/Blue |
![]() heya Micah, just a few Qs mate.
Leslie |
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#43 |
Former Vendor
Vendor Sales Rating: (0)
Member#: 200987
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: VA
|
![]() 1 & 2.)The 2.34L is a 99.5mm bore and 75mm stroke. Pistons and rods share no common dimension with factory componenets other than big end bearing diameter.
3.)The rods are actually Pauter Billet rods, sometimes called and 'x-beam' rod. 4.)Piston weights range greatly based upon chosen dish volume and alloy. For instance, an 8.8:1 CR 4" piston is only 408 grams in 2618 alloy ![]() 5.) compression ratio is completely custom and pistons are made to YOUR specs. 6.) If you want the full kit minus the factory crank, I simply deduct the $340 cost of the crank from the price. I don't mark up OEM parts, as we can all get them for super cheap. It just makes it easier if you opt for coatings or cryo treatment that I get done locally. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask away!! -Micah |
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#45 |
Scooby Newbie
Member Sales Rating: (0)
Member#: 130699
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: a U.S in Saudi Arabia
Vehicle:2005 STI JDM 2.0L Blue 315whp |
![]() hi buddy, you are highly recommended
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