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Old 10-22-2009, 03:42 PM   #251
jeromes
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Good luck. I don't think I have ever seen this harness for sell.
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Old 10-22-2009, 03:52 PM   #252
warwick5s
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According to my Subaru dealer, who called SoA about it, the only way to get that cable from Subaru was to order a brand new 2007 stereo at over $1000.

Personally, I went junkyarding and got lucky.
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Old 10-22-2009, 03:58 PM   #253
jeromes
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you could buy the harness made by this guy

Try this link http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...1156792&page=2

and just solder it to the ash tray box.
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Old 11-06-2009, 01:20 AM   #254
mtkoren
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OK A 2003 Forester Installation question using the factory-upgraded (from a 2004 Forester) Panasonic CQ-EF7360A (6 CD Changer) that has the three rear jacks - the 14P speakers jack, the 8-pin square woofer jack, and the 13-pin DIN input jack. For use with an iPhone. My current vehicle, the 2.5X, does not yet have the subwoofer and had the stock 1-CD radio (about to come out) and no woofer in the rear area and am looking at the upgraded speakers.

I've read for hours the various posts - thank you.

My desire - play my iphone/ipod and charge it. I know I have to use a blank CD. I want to do it all through the iPod dock connector so I need 5Volts not the 12V from the car. I think the inputs to the 13pin DIN will work OK through the dock connector as I'm hoping the output matches right. I want to do it all with one final cable. And it WOULD BE NICE if I could run powered subwoofer under the seat from the woofer output in the rear of the radio but would like to know if that powered output - there is an amp in the unit for it - will be similar to speaker output? This way I don't need to worry about front vs rear effects.

I located a 13-pin DIN fully wired connector and have it ordered. I have the Car Radio Service Manual for the radio so I know the pinouts. I found the pinouts of the dock connector. I will consult with my Apple service tech friends to be sure I'm doing the right thing, even if it means I patch into the dock cable a 12-volt cigarette lighter power plug so that the volt drop is handled by a vendor before it hits the USB power source.

@XVXdc: Looking over your entries made over the past few years, I realize that the answers to my questions are somewhere buried but I couldn't seem to locate them. Your help has made you a friend to several of us: I'm sure you realize that you've been immensely helpful over the past few years. May I be another one to indulge you and submit to you a few questions as I have as follows? I am sincerely looking forward to what you have to say, and please be honest (as I'm sure you'll be) if you aren't sure:

(1) Do you know if the woofer output built into that 8-Pin woofer output jack in the radio rear can properly power a powered subwoofer - is it line level (low) or is it speaker level?

(2) Is there any way to tell why there seem to be different Forester powered subwoofers for similar years? (For example H6300FS400 vs H630SSA200 Is it that some connect to speaker wires and others to that 8-pin output? I know the FS400 is supposed to be through year 2002 and the SSA200 is 2003-5, if I am right, both being 120-watts from what I've read (I know you commented in another post that one may be only 80 watts though you seem to be alone with that). I think the mounts should be the same for Foresters. Could Subaru be playing number games with model numbers? Or did they change wattage? This is important because if they just vary by connector and all else is the same there is a huge cost differential amongst them as some have already commented on!

(3) Do we know how good the "upgraded Subaru speakers" really are vs aftermarket ones that fit in the same space? You can get the upgraded ones for a very good price compared to some of the speakers from outside vendors. I noticed the standard speakers have a boomy-base quality that annoys me. I'm hoping that with the upgraded unit's center-channel control (ie 3 tone-control ranges if I am correct, the stock unit only had 2 ranges) and better speakers along with extended base through subwoofers, I'll get better control over this problem. I'm not worried about going total audiophile or I would have done something more drastic. There is too much low-level road noise in the Forester for a top grade solution, if you get my meaning. Even after playing with the gussets to eliminate all wind noise. Maybe brown bag in the doors when I get to the speaker replacement? (I did it in a mid-90s Legacy and WOW what a noise improvement!) Do you have any opinion about any of this?

(4) Have you seen a simple, in-wire or in-line solution, to convert 12v to 5v for the iPhone/iPod so that I don't need to pigtail onto my wire and use the power socket? (I think the tiny 7805 5v regulator may be the answer but I'm not sure yet.)

(5) Do you know of anyone who has run the output that comes from the dock connector to the input on the radio instead of using the headphone jack?

OKOK - (4-5) I could simply get an iPod Dock (I think this works with the iPhone) with an output minijack and run the two cables (a cigarette charger from the dock and the 1/8" jack to the HU). Then less worry of creating a problem, eh?

(6) I'll report on results to the forum once I've completed this. Now this is a work in progress and I'm considering altering it a bit to allow for a hands-free phone experience. I'll need to see how that fits together and don't know enough yet but it is tempting to see if I can work a mic into this perhaps using one of the aftermarket solutions and combining it with this. The ultimate irony would be if the only way to get reliable hands-free is to go thru the headphone jack for all iPhone outputs! Clearly more work to do!

(7) Do you know if and why the in-rear-quarter subwoofer solution (that my new changer supports through the 8-pin square output) was abandoned and if it was sonically inferior to the under seat solution? Having a larger baffle should make better sound. Unless it made crackling squeaks and whatever or the power was too low? I could try to figure out with my dealer how to do a hind retrofit.

Last edited by mtkoren; 11-06-2009 at 11:50 PM. Reason: Corrected point #2, added comment "OKOK" after point #5, appended onto point 6 and added question 7.
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Old 11-09-2009, 09:01 PM   #255
SVXdc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtkoren View Post
(1) Do you know if the woofer output built into that 8-Pin woofer output jack in the radio rear - is line level (low) or is it speaker level?
Yours and others around that vintage are speaker level. Possibly 65 Watts (or maybe reallly just 20 W).

Impreza and Forester factory radios starting in 2008/2009 (when Subaru changed to the ones with the oversized face), as well as the 2008-up Navi HUs have a mono, balanced, line-level sub output.

Quote:
(2) Is there any way to tell why there seem to be different Forester powered subwoofers for similar years?
I know that Subaru has these under-seat, powered subs in at least two different output power ratings (80 W and 120 W) -- in some cases SubaruParts.com listed the power ratings for some of the different part numbers. I don't know which car years/models each part was offered as an option for.

The other main differences are the wiring harness and mounting bracket. The harnesses either have or lack the extra 8-pin square plug for the left channel. Subaru has flipped back and forth between tying to the front or rear speakers. See my subwoofer posts in my "Stock HU" thread for more info.

If you're looking at getting a particular sub model, you'll have to ask SOA (who would then likely need to ask SOJ) to confirm the power rating.

Quote:
(3) Do we know how good the "upgraded Subaru speakers" really are vs aftermarket ones that fit in the same space?
Speaker comparisons and opinions are very subjective, and I try to stay out of that. I think in most cases (except for Subarus with the McIntosh and h/k systems), "upgraded speakers" simply means they added the OEM tweeters and/or under-seat sub.

As a rule, if you're looking at paying full retail for an audio component from Subaru, you'll be better off getting aftermarket.

Quote:
(4) Have you seen a simple, in-wire or in-line solution, to convert 12v to 5v for the iPhone/iPod so that I don't need to pigtail onto my wire and use the power socket? (I think the tiny 7805 5v regulator may be the answer but I'm not sure yet.)
I don't know of one to recommend. You can certainly build a circuit with a 7805 (or a more efficient switching type voltage converter), but you may need to take extra steps to avoid alternator noise.

Quote:
(5) Do you know of anyone who has run the output that comes from the dock connector to the input on the radio instead of using the headphone jack?
Sorry, no -- I haven't played any with iPods.

Quote:
(7) Do you know if and why the in-rear-quarter subwoofer solution was abandoned and if it was sonically inferior to the under seat solution?
I have no idea why Subaru does what they do. I'd guess "cost" vs. perceived value. I've heard that both the rear-cargo sub and the underseat subs are nothing to get excited about.

BTW, the output from the 8-pin connector isn't technically "sub" bass. I've read posts saying it falls off somewhere higher than 100Hz. That's probably why some of Subaru's wiring diagrams refer to it as a "super woofer."
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Old 11-10-2009, 12:32 AM   #256
master_blaster
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Default Need CeNet pinout diagram

Hi everyone,

I have a problem with legacy lancaster (outback) 2002-model with the Japanese Clarion navigation and car-audio system.
I change a Clarion cd-player on Alpine mp3-player.
The player does not has an CeNet input BUT it has navigation system.
Before removing old audio system, they has been a CeNet hard-wired with a navigation system. And where are worked. But after a navigation system stop turn on.
It's looks as a black square input with 13pin.
DOES ANYONE KNOWS ABOUT PINOUT OF IT????
I would like to make an CeNet input cable for my car.

I didn't find anything on net about it.

Please Help anyone!!!!
Thanks

Last edited by master_blaster; 11-11-2009 at 06:12 PM.
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Old 11-11-2009, 12:08 PM   #257
ezil71
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Thanks for all the info in this thread....

Just want to confirm my understanding for my HU replacement (2003 wagon with factory premium/sub setup).

I'm planning on the Kenwood 942U, and wanted to get the factory sub connected to its sub outputs rather than off the rear speakers so that I have finer control over the sub levels and crossover via the HU.

If I understand correctly, the only way to do that is to get an amp? Is there any way to convert the line level output from the Kenwood to speaker level without another amp, since the factory sub is also an amp?

I know you can go speaker level to line level with a LOC, but can you go the other way?

Thanks
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Old 11-21-2009, 03:41 AM   #258
SVXdc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezil71 View Post
Is there any way to convert the line level output from the Kenwood to speaker level without another amp, since the factory sub is also an amp?
You can't convert the HU's line outs to speaker level -- that would mean increasing the signal, which is amplifying.

What you might be able to do is convert the OEM sub to work with line level. Probably not worth the effort. See this thread on ScoobyMods:
OEM underseat Subwoofer info
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Old 12-12-2009, 01:11 AM   #259
jolson05
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I have an '08 STI w/ Stock NAV HU that I'm taking out and replacing with the F90BT.

I need the 24 Pin Harness to connect the F90BT to the OEM 24 Pin Reverse Harness (out of the car) for the Steering Wheel Controls, Vehicle Speed, Reverse Signal, and Parking Brake.

What is the make and model number for the 24 Pin Harness?

Pic and write up in the following quote.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXdc View Post

2008 Navi Radio

24 pin Navi connector



The Navi radio has a second harness with the wires for nav functions (the 24-pin connector on the left side). This socket includes pins for A/V in, Steering Wheel Controls, and CAN data bus.

Pin numbering:
Code:
             | Latch  |
 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9 10 11 12
13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24
Viewed looking at the pins-side of the car's harness (wires pointing away from you)

Pin Assignments:
Code:
Pin  Function                        Car's Color
---  -----------------------------   ------------
 1   NC                              —
 2   NC                              —
 3   Steering Wheel Controls +       Brown
 4   Parking Brake                   Grey
 5   Reverse Gear
 6   CAN Low (data bus)              Light Green/Red
 7   Sub enable? **
 8   Video Input Ground              Sealed (braided shield)
 9   Aux input enable                Black/Orange
10   Aux Input - Left                Yellow
11   Subwoofer out - Audio Ground *  Sealed (braided shield)
12   Subwoofer out - A *

13   NC                              —
14   NC                              —
15   Steering Wheel Controls –       Yellow
16   +12V Ignition (Run)
17   Vehicle Speed Signal?
18   CAN High (data bus)             Pink
19   NC                              —
20   Video Input                     Red
21   Aux Input - Audio Ground        Sealed (braided shield)
22   Aux Input - Right               Blue
23   Subwoofer out - Amp On? *
24   Subwoofer out - B *
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Old 12-12-2009, 01:33 AM   #260
SVXdc
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^ I've been been continually making updates to the above pin-out table. See the latest version here in my 'Stock HU info' thread (post #11).

Quote:
Originally Posted by jolson05 View Post
I have an '08 STI w/ Stock NAV HU that I'm taking out and replacing with the F90BT.

I need the 24 Pin Harness to connect the [Pioneer AVIC] F90BT to the OEM 24 Pin Reverse Harness (out of the car) for the Steering Wheel Controls, Vehicle Speed, Reverse Signal, and Parking Brake.

What is the make and model number for the 24 Pin Harness?
None of the after-market harness manufacturers make that part. It's doubtful that they ever will, since the demand is too low.

You might want to connect to the pins for the center console A/V jacks, too.

I have some of the parts to make what you're looking for. E-mail me for more info (click my username).

Last edited by SVXdc; 07-24-2010 at 02:11 AM.
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Old 12-12-2009, 02:29 AM   #261
mxtreme311
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I looked and looked and couldn't find it. I have a 08 WRX sedan with the navigation system. Is the subwoofer under the seat? If so, can I tap into the wiring for the factory subwoofer to connect an after-market amp and subs so I can still control the sub volume from the HU?
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Old 12-13-2009, 12:32 AM   #262
SVXdc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxtreme311 View Post
I have a 08 WRX sedan with the navigation system. Is the subwoofer under the seat? If so, can I tap into the wiring for the factory subwoofer to connect an after-market amp and subs so I can still control the sub volume from the HU?
The OEM sub in the WRX with Navi is the "old-style" under-seat type, with a T-harness that taps off the front or rear speakers. The Navi's menus don't directly control that sub (only indirectly, by altering what gets sent to the speaker outputs).

You can use that T-harness to send those speaker lines to an aftermarket amp+sub. You'll need an amp turn-on signal -- the OEM sub does not have a wire for that.

The Navi has pins for a subwoofer output, but they're used only in Foresters. You can snap in some pins/wires to those pins on your car's 24-pin harness to use that output to feed your sub amp. There's even a wire for remote-on.
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Old 12-16-2009, 04:55 PM   #263
dwmoss_68
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SVXdc,

Over the holidays I will be replacing my stock headunit from our 07 FXT Sport.

6 CD double din w/
aux input
factory sirius
factory woofer driver rear hatch/back

Do you want me to take any images for you??

dm

Last edited by dwmoss_68; 12-16-2009 at 05:45 PM. Reason: added some hu details
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Old 12-16-2009, 09:34 PM   #264
SVXdc
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Sure, that would be great! Especially different angles of the sub harness behind the HU. Plus the other end at the speaker, if you were planning to open that up. Are the sub wires part of your aux harness?

I don't think I have a shot of the entire rear of the HU. If it's different from the one in this post, then I could use the front and label too.

Several angles of the satellite antenna plug would be helpful -- people keep trying to figure out if it will fit an aftermarket HU/tuner.

Thanks!
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Old 12-17-2009, 07:32 AM   #265
dwmoss_68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXdc View Post
Sure, that would be great! Especially different angles of the sub harness behind the HU. Plus the other end at the speaker, if you were planning to open that up. Are the sub wires part of your aux harness?

I don't think I have a shot of the entire rear of the HU. If it's different from the one in this post, then I could use the front and label too.

Several angles of the satellite antenna plug would be helpful -- people keep trying to figure out if it will fit an aftermarket HU/tuner.

Thanks!
I'll make sure I get a bunch of info/images for you when I do it.

dm
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Old 12-20-2009, 12:44 PM   #266
andrewfay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobaru View Post
Thats fantastic!! Now we need some suggestions on the best Mics and Discrete Mountings. What a RIP OFF!!!
Radio Shack has a great microphone that is made for plugging into a PA system, and it is very small too. It is $26 and has great quality. They even have windscreens available for them too, which helps with road noise. Sound quality is great.
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Old 12-20-2009, 12:59 PM   #267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxfiles25 View Post
I have the new 2008 WRX STI and found that the BLuetooth mic did not come with the car. SO I had the Dealer order the part. After 5 weeks it came in and I laughed once I saw it. $198 for a 3 wire connection with mic that mounts on stearing column. I looked at the instructions and pin outs. It connects up to the back of the radio to 3 pins and that is it.
So I returned and said no thanks. I went out and bought a $10.00 computer mic from Wal-Mart and $1.99 9 Pin Computer Female adapter from Radio Shack that you put together. I just needed it for the small female pin outs. Since the back of the radio has the Male Pins.



The connector on the back is the black one almost in the middle/center right..
next to the little white one. 5 Male Pins are in it.



The Mic has two wires (Positive & Negative) You need to splice a second Negative Ground off the Mics Original Ground. To make Two Ground and One Positive Mic Wire.

Look at the Subaru Bluetooth Connector picture and instruction pics above.

Looking at the back of the radio at the connector the pins go from left to right.

1 2 3 4 5
G OO G P

G = Ground O = Open P = Positive

I used the gold Pins from the Radio Shack connector on the ends of the Mic wires so that way they would slide over the Pins in the connector on the back of the radio since I did not have the actual connector to plug into the radio. I would rather make a cheap $12.00 connection then pay $198 for the actual Subaru Part.

Once you make these connections then the Bluetooth Phone options will show up on the radio.

I have setup my bluetooth phone and use it all the time now. I ran the Mic wire down the Driver side from the visor in the Window Column for the airbag. Just pop out the AIRBAG TAG and remove bolt. The cover comes right off.

Happy Bluetoothing!!
I am a new Subie owner, 37 yrs old father of 3. I haven't gotten into a stereo system for 20 years, but I thought I would give this a try. Worked like a champ. It works just as he says, and I am very excited to have all of these new features. My blackberry entire contact list transferred over in just a minute. I got a microphone at radio shack for $25 that is very small and works great (it was made for wearing on the lapel and plugging into a pa or camcorder.)
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Old 01-05-2010, 07:31 AM   #268
dwmoss_68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXdc View Post
Sure, that would be great! Especially different angles of the sub harness behind the HU. Plus the other end at the speaker, if you were planning to open that up. Are the sub wires part of your aux harness?

I don't think I have a shot of the entire rear of the HU. If it's different from the one in this post, then I could use the front and label too.

Several angles of the satellite antenna plug would be helpful -- people keep trying to figure out if it will fit an aftermarket HU/tuner.

Thanks!
SVXdc,

I've got the headunit pulled and have some image in my photobucket here

Let me know what other images you need/what. I havent currently pulled the speakers, I will at some point but not now.

As far as the sirius antenna plug, it will work with the aftermarket antenna. I am currently using the factory sirius antenna with the aftermarket headunit (kenwood x693 w/ sirius module).

thanks for you work and effort on the epic thread we are discussing, it was a huge help to me as I'm sure to a bunch of others.

dm
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Old 01-10-2010, 04:59 PM   #269
dwmoss_68
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2007 FXT
I went to pull the aux cable today.

There are three wires that are tied into the main harness.





yellow/black
red/black
white blue

any idea what these wires are for....

dm

Last edited by dwmoss_68; 01-10-2010 at 09:06 PM.
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Old 01-11-2010, 01:41 AM   #270
SVXdc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwmoss_68 View Post
2007 FXT
I went to pull the aux cable today.

There are three wires that are tied into the main harness.
...
yellow/black
red/black
white blue

any idea what these wires are for....

dm
Black/Yellow (pin 4 on the 8-pin aux harness "i64") and White/Blue (pin 8) go to the rear cargo subwoofer speaker.

The wiring diagrams also show a Yellow wire at pin 6 which is the aux enable input into the HU (allows you to switch to aux mode when you have plugged something into the 3.5mm jack).

If the other wire is really Black/Red, that provides chassis ground to the aux pod (for the contact switch that detects when you've plugged something in). But that wire doesn't go to the 8-pin aux plug.


BTW, thanks for posting all of those other pictures a few days ago.
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Old 01-11-2010, 07:19 PM   #271
dwmoss_68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXdc View Post
Black/Yellow (pin 4 on the 8-pin aux harness "i64") and White/Blue (pin 8) go to the rear cargo subwoofer speaker.

The wiring diagrams also show a Yellow wire at pin 6 which is the aux enable input into the HU (allows you to switch to aux mode when you have plugged something into the 3.5mm jack).

If the other wire is really Black/Red, that provides chassis ground to the aux pod (for the contact switch that detects when you've plugged something in). But that wire doesn't go to the 8-pin aux plug.


BTW, thanks for posting all of those other pictures a few days ago.
SVXdc,

I'm looking to pull this cable from my vehicle to sell to someone with my stock head unit and aux in port. If they didn't have the rear cargo speaker they wouldn't need the white/blue or black/yellow. How about the black/red, would they just need to run that to a chasis ground??

Also, I could find any connectors attached to these, the connectors aren't just buried deeper behind the twisted mess of wires, are they??

thanks in advance
dm

Last edited by dwmoss_68; 01-11-2010 at 07:30 PM.
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Old 01-11-2010, 08:35 PM   #272
SVXdc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwmoss_68 View Post
I'm looking to pull this cable from my vehicle to sell to someone with my stock head unit and aux in port. If they didn't have the rear cargo speaker they wouldn't need the white/blue or black/yellow.
Correct.

[ADDED] However, you might want to include 6" so they could connect that output to a small aftermarket sub speaker.

Quote:
How about the black/red, would they just need to run that to a chassis ground??
If it's the wire that goes to the aux pod (pin #3 on the 6-pin harness i67), then yes.

Quote:
Also, I could [not] find any connectors attached to these, the connectors aren't just buried deeper behind the twisted mess of wires, are they??
The 2007 Forester wiring diagram shows no intermediate connectors between the 8-pin HU aux harness, i64, and the aux pod harness, i67. The wires do get bundled up with other parts of the massive Instrument Panel Wiring Harness, but in theory you can unravel a few bands of electrical tape and separate out the 4 conductors that go between i64 and i67 for the aux input function. The left+right+shield wires are in the gray multi-conductor cable. If you include a long enough "pigtail" of the Black/Red wire, that should be enough for them to use the ashtray aux pod.

Last edited by SVXdc; 01-11-2010 at 08:52 PM.
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Old 01-11-2010, 08:46 PM   #273
Wrgb
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Stock wiring to F/R Speakers in a 2000 RS Sedan.

Is there Noticeable benefit in replacing the wires with new ones (bigger ones?) when replacing the speakers?
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Old 01-11-2010, 08:54 PM   #274
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Not if you're keeping the OEM HU.
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Old 01-12-2010, 07:30 AM   #275
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SVXdc,

Thanks again so much for your help.

dm

Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXdc View Post
Correct.

[ADDED] However, you might want to include 6" so they could connect that output to a small aftermarket sub speaker.


If it's the wire that goes to the aux pod (pin #3 on the 6-pin harness i67), then yes.


The 2007 Forester wiring diagram shows no intermediate connectors between the 8-pin HU aux harness, i64, and the aux pod harness, i67. The wires do get bundled up with other parts of the massive Instrument Panel Wiring Harness, but in theory you can unravel a few bands of electrical tape and separate out the 4 conductors that go between i64 and i67 for the aux input function. The left+right+shield wires are in the gray multi-conductor cable. If you include a long enough "pigtail" of the Black/Red wire, that should be enough for them to use the ashtray aux pod.
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