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Old 10-29-2019, 02:09 PM   #1
CarmMontana
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So I need some serious help.

I have a 2002 wrx 2.0 tuned stage 2 on cobb accessport. This isnt my first suby but the first turbo'd ive ever had. When i got her it ran well, super quick but had a slight turbo bark at 6500. CEL showed a misfire in Cylinder 3.

So I got new coils and plugs when installing I noticed vacuum lines capped, cracked and even some missing so I went ahead and got a new hose setup. While I had it all taken down I figured id do the tgv delete and clean up the manifold. I also did the fuel solenoid delete as it broke during unistall.

I cleaned everything up and put her back together. On the first start up it sounded pretty good. Ran a bit rough but no odd noises.

When I took it for a test drive it wouldn't spool up over 3500 rpm, then it started to have a really odd tick. Its loud. I have determined its not the injectors but it has the same overall sound. I have done the below to try and determine what it is with literally no change at all

- Swapped coils to other cylinders
- Swapped old coilds for new
- Moved around injectors
- disconnected injectors and coils to try and get a misfire
- Torn down intake to see where the noise is coming from
- Used my stethescope to try and isolate noise, no luck here.
- detuned to stock no change
- Pulled belts to eliminate ac and power steering
- Checked knock sensor
- Checked power to coils...


I am trying to determine if noise will go away and if that correlates to the rpm issues. At a loss here.

Next steps
- Cylinder pressure test and or a leak down?

Sorry for the novel but I am at a loss, see the video below on the noise and what I am dealing with. Thanks!





Last edited by CarmMontana; 10-29-2019 at 02:17 PM.
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Old 10-30-2019, 01:11 AM   #2
subaru_gc8
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kinda sounds exhaust leakish
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Old 10-30-2019, 01:36 AM   #3
supermarkus
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Check your timing belt tensioner and timing belt guides. Maybe even timing belt for signs of rubbing. I had a guide set too close to the belt once and it made a similar noise.
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Old 10-30-2019, 12:59 PM   #4
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Sorry buddy but that sounds internal probably something in the heads... I don't think that is exhaust
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Old 10-30-2019, 03:46 PM   #5
CarmMontana
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So sad realization. I did a compression test and cylinder 4 is reading only 79 pounds...

Will start tearing it down to see what did the damage. Sucks but at least I know now. Iíll keep you guys posted.

Question; jdm long block ej205 an easy swap? Seems like it would be a drop in but Iím reading otherwise
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Old 10-31-2019, 02:56 AM   #6
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Im going to be doing the JDM ej205 long block swap. I know the crank sprocket, driver side intake cam gear, crank and cam sensor need to be swapped over from the USDM engine at a minimum. Im going to be using most all my old stuff on the new engine though.
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Old 11-01-2019, 06:48 PM   #7
sig
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its a fairly easy swap all things considered, theres a good YT vid out there that shows everything you need to swap over, Shouldnt need anything new for the swap, just the long block. The hardest part I remember when replacing with a jdm ej205 was the oil return line from the turbo which was pressed in so that took some workaround. let us know how it goes
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Old 11-04-2019, 04:37 PM   #8
CarmMontana
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Got the motor broke down to the block. Figured out the bearing of cylinder 4 went bye bye.

So doing some math, worth a rebuild or should I just get a JDM engine with low mileage? The reason I ask is clearly the crank will need ground, heads and block resurfaced. It looks like the valves may be burnt as well.

Seems it would take about a good deal of work to get this one back up to speed.

Here are the pics, let me know your thoughts guys.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7G...Q=w240-h320-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mZ...w=w240-h320-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Dw...w=w240-h320-no

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Old 11-04-2019, 04:47 PM   #9
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Its been pretty much determined time and time again that after all the associated parts and a machine work that rebuilding is not as cost effective as a JDM or USDM 205 longblock swap, also downtime will be much much less if you're just swapping longblocks.

Lots of spun bearing cars have trashed cam journals too, which means new heads are needed along with a rebuild if you elect to go that route.
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Old 11-04-2019, 05:11 PM   #10
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I agree, just get a low mileage JDM long block. Mine cost about 1200 as a reference. It did happen to turn out to be an ej208/206, which happens to have the added bonus of sodium filled valves and forged aluminum pistons from what I've researched so you might get lucky enough to find one of those. Thing is the JDM engines have a different compression ratio 9:1 jdm vs 8:1 usdm so you might need a tune. Also the JDM 2 liter engines just feel better on the lower end taking off from a stop and run more smoothly, but that could be related to the compression difference.
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Old 11-05-2019, 05:08 PM   #11
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Thanks for the info gents, I thought the e206 was the twin turbo. Are you saying get the e206/208 but use the wrx intake and tgv setup?

So 9:1 would require a tune, I'm assuming a custom tune, not an OTS cobb.
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Old 11-05-2019, 08:51 PM   #12
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yep the 206 is the automatic tranny and the 208 is the manual in the twin turbo legacys. The 208 had around 280hp and the 206 had around 260 from factory. Both are the same engine I believe, but the 206 was detuned for the autos gearing.

Yes you would keep your current USDM intake and harness all you need of the JDM is the long block and then you'll just have to swap over what you need.

I did get a custom tune but I used the tactrix and ECUFLASH/ROMRAIDER software. Not sure the process with the COBB but Im assuming its the same process with logging and receiving the new maps until its dialed in.
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Old 11-13-2019, 10:17 PM   #13
CarmMontana
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Ok peeps. I ordered a motor from JDM Houston. Heard good things from a buddy. It just showed today and ill be honest, disappointed that it is not the engine from the photos. I specifically asked if it would be. Its an ej208 but just not the one I had seen.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/tLbsV9Ynqx8mEaaz6

The issue I am having is this.
- How do I do a compression test on the stand?
- Also when I pulled the plugs they all look terrible, all have melted electrodes, one worse than the other 3. This is supposed to have 50k miles. Not sure what I think about that.

See pics attached. Let me know your thoughts. I want to be educated before I go back and ask whats up. They were NGK R plugs with the small iridium shank, at least at one time. Thanks!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Xyn9q1AYah7FAY5Q9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/wFp5KeDF5AVXvPu7A

https://photos.app.goo.gl/zPuyEuzBJYVceKmE7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/sDXP9bEd9W4kQvnx5

Last edited by CarmMontana; 11-13-2019 at 10:42 PM.
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Old 11-13-2019, 10:51 PM   #14
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The plugs just seem to have a ton of mileage and actually seem to show a healthy burn... To compression check on the stand you would need clearance to attach the starter. ground a battery to the head or block and simple put 12v + to the starter to turn the motor over
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Old 11-13-2019, 10:59 PM   #15
CarmMontana
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[quote=caribbeanbugeye;46171555]The plugs just seem to have a ton of mileage and actually seem to show a healthy burn... To compression check on the stand you would need clearance to attach the starter. ground a battery to the head or block and simple put 12v + to the starter to turn the motor over[/QUOTE


Do you think 50k would show this hard on a set of plugs? This is my first turbo'd gas car so this is new to me that an electrode could erode and be ok.

Last edited by CarmMontana; 11-13-2019 at 11:12 PM.
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Old 11-13-2019, 11:02 PM   #16
Breticus
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I would be pretty pissed about the stud on the bell housing being bent. I did my compression test by bolting up the started using sockets and washers as spacers and hooking it up to a battery. Make sure theres oil in it.
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Old 11-13-2019, 11:12 PM   #17
CarmMontana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Breticus View Post
I would be pretty pissed about the stud on the bell housing being bent. I did my compression test by bolting up the started using sockets and washers as spacers and hooking it up to a battery. Make sure theres oil in it.
Cool, good idea. I was going to cut spacers to do this. Thanks!
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Old 11-13-2019, 11:13 PM   #18
sig
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did they give you a 30 day warranty at least?


heres a short easy vid showing how to do the compression test, you dont need the stand and chances are there wont be enough space for the flywheel/starter.

wouldnt sweat it about the plugs but it would definitely tick me off too knowing that they didnt send the one you paid for sorry to hear that man, let us know how the compression numbers read.

Also I would check and see if the oil pan got bent as well since it looks like they werent that careful with it, the stud should bend out easy enought with a mallet
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Old 11-13-2019, 11:21 PM   #19
CarmMontana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sig View Post
did they give you a 30 day warranty at least?

How to compression test an engine out of the car - Just the Tip - YouTube

heres a short easy vid showing how to do the compression test, you dont need the stand and chances are there wont be enough space for the flywheel/starter.

wouldnt sweat it about the plugs but it would definitely tick me off too knowing that they didnt send the one you paid for sorry to hear that man, let us know how the compression numbers read.

Also I would check and see if the oil pan got bent as well since it looks like they werent that careful with it, the stud should bend out easy enought with a mallet
Thanks Sig, Yeah warranty of 30 days. I am sure they have a million ways of getting out of it but I just want to make sure compression is good. I'm fine otherwise.

Thanks for the video, helps a lot. Here is hoping all is good with the engine. I'd like to get my rally car going soon!
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Old 11-13-2019, 11:25 PM   #20
CarmMontana
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one more quick question.

Does it make sense to reseal the thing while I have it out? Its really clean and looks well sealed but I would hate to have a leak after install.
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Old 11-13-2019, 11:31 PM   #21
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I am resealing mine for peace of mind and because its just much easier while its out. Im also doing this swap.
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Old 11-14-2019, 01:47 AM   #22
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Yes, reseal it and prep it for 100,000 miles of service without having to worry.
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Old 11-15-2019, 01:47 AM   #23
CarmMontana
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Yep sealing her up and doing the timing belt so I don’t have to worry about it.

Question; capping the EJ208 turbo oil lines... I can see two bolts for the two but the one with a pipe and o ring has me confused on how to cap it. I can crimp and weld but what have you guys done?

Have more gaskets coming my way, crossover pipe must have been leaking.

Last edited by CarmMontana; 11-18-2019 at 12:17 PM.
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Old 11-15-2019, 04:09 PM   #24
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can you post picture, I'm having trouble visualizing what youre talking about
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Old 11-15-2019, 08:05 PM   #25
CarmMontana
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Sig, I'll take a few shots tonight.

On another note. I got around to the compression test, socket idea worked like a charm. Getting 178-182 on all cylinders. That is way higher than I thought I would get. I'm used to v8's and have seen that on those but is there any issue with that on these? 180 Too high?
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