De36's VA1 Build

[De36]

2018 VA1:


w/ Enkei Rajins (18" Summer):


w/ Sparco Assetto (17" Winter) & GReddy RS-Race:


Engine: FA20DIT
Transmission: 6MT
MAP: Protune by EFI on 93

ENGINE:
Perrin Crank Pulley
Perrin Water Pump Pulley
Perrin AOS (air-oil separator)
Perrin Turbo-Sump Restrictor
Perrin TGV Deletes
Perrin Charge Pipe
Turbo XS Catted Downpipe
HKS Legamax Catback (Installed)
GReddy RS-Race Catback (not installed)
GReddy 51mm Silencer
AEM Dryflow Drop-In Air Filter (not installed)
Remark Axle Back (not installed)
Cobb CAI
Cobb Accessport
Cobb EBCS
Restrictor Pill Removed
Mobil 1 Full Synthetic
93 Octane
Torque Solutions EGR Delete
Process West Khanacooler TMIC
Protune by EFI Logics (on 93 octane)

SUSPENSION:
Perrin Front Strut Tower Brace
Targa Swaybar Endlinks (Heim Joints)
Eibach Prokit .8" Drop
OEM Front Swaybar (25mm)
OEM Rear Swaybar (19mm) - (not installed)
Whiteline Rear Swaybar (20 mm) - (not installed)
Perrin Rear Swaybar (25mm) - Softest Setting

TRANSMISSION:
Kartboy Shifter Lock
STI Duracon Shift Knob
Torque Solution Short Throw
Motul Gear 300 75w90

WHEEL& TIRES:
Muteki SR48 Lugs
Sparco 7.5x17 ET 45 mm (18.7 lbs) - Winter
Enkei Raijin 8x18 ET 45mm (20 lbs) - Summer/Track
Toyo R1R - 245/40R18
Conti DWS 06 - 235/45R17

CHASSIS:
Perrin Rear Window Vents
Velox Throttle Pedal Relocate
Whiteline Front Roll Center Kit (Lower Balljoints)
Whiteline Front Bump-Steer Kit (Tie Rod Ends)
STI Group N Pitch Stop Mount
STI Group N Trans Mount
Whiteline Trans Mount Bushings
Whiteline Rear Differential Bushings
Whiteline Rear Subframe Bushings
Plate Relocation Kit
Subispeed's OLM Fog Light Kit (Removed)
Subaru OEM Foglight Kit w/ Lamin-X Yellow Fog Covers (Installed)
Rally Armor Flaps (Breast Cancer Awareness)
S207 Grill Pinstripe
Weather Tech Liners
Subispeed Rear Foglight
Panavise Phone Mount
HT Autos V3 Front Lip

BRAKES:
Stoptech Slotted Rotors
Hawk 5.0 Pads
Motul RBF 600 Brake Fluid

Other Builds: Honda

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[De36]

Crank Pulley:


Water Pump Pulley:


Fitment was perfect. Perrin supplied great directions. Install time was ~30min.

[De36]

Side-by-side cat comparison:


Notice the restricted inlet shape of the OEM cat:


Issues*:
1. I could not re-install a heat-shield that protects the water pump and drive belt. The new cat is bigger than stock.
2. The front lambda sensor harness was too short, so AFR sensor 1 would NOT reach the bung on the Turbo XS cat.

*I sent Turbo XS an email and a voice message, they never responded to either of these issues.

[De36]

Not what I meant when I said I wanted Sparcos...

[De36]

The bar fits way back under the cowl:


The only issue with the install was that the driver-side bracket touched against one of the lines. The direction do not mention this:


I slightly bent this bracket to prevent rubbing:


Now there is clearance:

[Calamarii]

Don't think the pictures quite worked on that last one. There they are.

Cool car though. I feel like I don't often see white mud flaps on the white car but i like it.

What did you end up doing with the afr sensor that wouldn't install on the new cat?

[De36]

Originally Posted by Calamarii

What did you end up doing with the o2 sensor that wouldn't install on the new cat?

OEM Heat Shield:


I disconnected the O2 connector from its bracket and zipped tied it for now. The wiring is too taut. I will be addressing this in the Spring along with the custom Heat-Shied to protect the water pump and drive belt. I will either find a sensor with a longer pig tail, or just solder in wire to extend the connector properly.

Removed Heat Shield & Zip Tie:

[De36]

A bit dirty from road grime:

[/IMG]

[De36]

The key features here are the over sized heim joints w/ seals to protect against the weather.


Also the lower-sleeves for proper hole placement.

[De36]

Waiting on a warm day to install


Install Update:
I waited to do this install until I performed the Walnut Blast + Stage 3 to ensure fitment. An AOS combined with a EGR-Delete is a must to reduce/eliminate carbon build up on valves because of the direct injection.

Impression:
AOS's like this are expensive & time consuming install jobs. 3/5 install difficultly. The benefits of not having to empty this (unlike a catch-can) out weigh the price. It's a little nerve racking cutting the hoses to length know you only get one shot. Perrin's quality is amazing.

Notes:
You will need coolant to properly bleed the system, this would be a good time to do a coolant flush (2 gallons) and some Water Wetter. I purchased crimp-hose-clamps for a cleaner install https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....L._SL1500_.jpg

2017+ slightly different (and easier) install than 2015-2016 MY.

[De36]

Just delivered. New product for those hot trackdays and races events:


Really high quality and installs in seconds

[DaveS16]

Thanks for good picture story =)

[Eww Evo]

Originally Posted by De36

Waiting on a warm day to install

I love my Perrin AOS. I was very annoyed being indecisive about getting this one or the COBB AOS.

[De36]

Thanks to Subi-Bros for the fast shipping. I will post pics & feedback when I clean the valves and install all the new goodies:


Link: http://subiebros.com/subie-bros-fa20...lnut-blasting/

UPDATE:
Mileage: 30k
Without an AOS & EGR-Deletes a walnut-blast cleaning would need to be completed every 15k-30k miles.
I completed the walnut blasting using the recommended Harbor Freight Blaster with 30,000 miles on my car.

The Blaster:
The HF-Blaster was temperamental and would not consistently blast. I returned it and got a new one and it acted the same. It is important to have a 1hp (or more) air-compressor that can hold 110-120 PSI consistently. It worked pretty fast and cleaned large areas quickly.

The SB Adapter:
Fit and worked well, but walnuts still escaped. I purchased the shop-vac reducer at Home Depot for $9. The driver side was more difficult to maneuver.

Carb Cleaner w/ Gun-Barrel Brush:
The HF-Blaster did not remove the thick build up on the valves (see images below). I purchased a 22 caliber gun-barrel brush @ Cabelas and performed a Soak & Scrub w/ carb cleaner.

My Method:
1. Walnut Blast
2. Soak & Scrub
3. Walnut Blast
4. Soak & Scrub

These are the videos I followed (more or less):
Video 1:

https://youtu.be/Ti0Im4tRq8A

https://youtu.be/Ti0Im4tRq8A

Video 2:

https://youtu.be/6B7hmcPgEc8

https://youtu.be/6B7hmcPgEc8

Overall Impression/ Results:
It took a little improvisation and a lot of patients, but I am happy with the results. I never suggest reusing fluids (coolant, oil, etc.) or gaskets. I spent ~$150 in gasket and new coolant (2 gallons). The difficulty to the average person I would say is a 4 out of 5. For a technician this is a 2 out of 5. Walnut shells go every where and can do a lot of damage if they are not removed. Subi-Bros sell an 1/4" NPT Adapter sold separately that is a must have to attach this kit to the HF-Baster. Do not for get to order this!!!

Setup w/ Shop-Vac Reducer:


Pre Walnut Blast:


Post Walnut Blast*:


*I forgot to take an image after I performed the Soak & Scrub. But the valves came out very clean in the end.

___

[De36]

Cobb makes great quality products this install onto the OEM inlet-hose was simple and fast. The kit provides everything you will need.

Cobb does a lot of testing to insure fitment, reliability, and lasting quality. I trust Cobb.

Why did I choose Cobb over GS?
When I add the Perrin Inlet-Hose the Cobb EBCS will be a cleaner install over the Grimmspeed. I will post images when available.

[De36]

Perrin TGV Delete:
Easy Install. Great quality. I do suggest replacing the gaskets.



TS EGR Delete:
I completed this install with the Walnut-Blast and the intake manifold off which made for an easy install. TS makes great products. The kit doesn't come with the EGR-to-Intake Manifold gasket, I suggest replacing this gasket. The lower plate sees a lot of heat and water, they rust quite quickly. I also suggest replacing these nuts w/ anti-seize (I went a little heavy with the anti-seize). You will need coolant to properly bleed the system.

[De36]

Perrin Charge Pipe:
Aligning the lower coupler required patients. The BOV is tricky to align and clamp down. Great quality.

Process West Khanacooler:
PW makes great quality products. Having a slight fitment issue that I am working through w/ PW. The OEM look is what attracts me to the Khanacooler.

[De36]

Street Map: 281 whp/303 ftlbs - (w/ stock air box, w/ Greddy RS-Race Catback) 101 dB
Street Map: 272 whp/275 ftlbs - (w/ Greddy Silencer installed) 96 dB

[De36]

I got a sound warning @ 96 dB (w/ scilencer). Palmer max sound level is 95 dB. Time for a new cat-back!!!

[De36]

Whiteline Front Roll Center Balljoints
Whiteline Front Bump-Steer Outer Tie Rods
Whiteline Trans Mount Bushings
STI Group N Trans Mount
Whiteline Rear Differential Bushings
Whiteline Rear Subframe Inserts

[De36]

Although I love the Greddy RS-Race CB it was too loud at 101dB. The HKS is a 3" catback without the noise. And the quality is outstanding.

Stock: 85dB
Greddy RS-Race: 101dB
Greddy RS-Race w/ Scilencer: 96dB
HKS:86dB

Greddy vs HKS








Retuned*:
285 whp
300 ftlb
*(added HKS Legamax & Cobb CAI)

[De36]

Broke Even swapping the exhausts and airbox...
Dotted = RS-Race + OEM Air Box (93 Oct)
Solid = HKS + Cobb CAI (93 Oct)
*Mustang Dyno