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Old 08-12-2014, 11:12 AM   #1
06rexLTD
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 281793
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: BALTIMORE
Vehicle:
2004 STi
WRB

Default 06rexLTD's 04 STi 5858 build thread

ok, so i guess its about time for me to make this thing.. ive been slacking due to working full time and then putting in full time work every evening on the subie...

heres a little backround:
About 2~3 years ago i got my first subaru, an 06 WRX Ltd and fell in love with its ability to be a fun car regardless of the weather/road conditions.. after going to stg2 and running an ots map on an open dp & intake, along with some "spirited" driving lol, i cracked the notorious #4 ringland.. i had purchased the car with an aftermarket warranty (leaving some info out bc yea) ended up with my motor back in running order for 1/3 the cost and sitting @ 8.2:1 compression ratio, pistons, rods, etc a complete bottom end build safe for up to 600ish-whp..
I am particularly anal about breaking things in correctly so i went thru the ringer of breaking in the motor varying load for the first 4k miles, changing the royal purple breakin oil every 1500 i believe and got the motor broken in nice and good.. iAG squeezed me in for a tuning appointment with jorge carillo (riftsWRX) and it made 292whp/258wtq on the stock 06 wrx turbo and i was satisfied with a strong motor. I put about 1500 additional miles on it, then was hit by an old man making an illegal crossing on a 4 lane road ...
I bought the car back from my insurance for 1000$ and iAG took it off my hands and gave me an amazing deal - they stored my motor/car at their location for about a year and a half, and i got to keep my motor, and they paid me for the rest of the car (i cant say enough good things about JJ, Rick, and the whole team @ iAG performance)..
Fast fwd to early 2013.. was looking for another subaru and refused to not get an STi.. browsing the forums heavily i found a sketchy ad on VAdriven, no pics, just a number, the fact it was an 04 STi, milage and asking price.. i caught it before the mods deleted it and called the guy up in NYC and it was still available.. i got my funding together and hopped on a bus from Baltimore to NYC and met up with the seller, the car looked good despite the high milage 115xxx, but i had a motor so i wasnt worried about it. He rode from NYC to Baltimore (about 3hrs) which was plenty enough test drive to see there were no major issues.. i drove it like it came for almost a year and reaching 170xxx miles, it was just a stage 2 setup, i beleive ap flashed, borla cbe, cobb dp, and k&n intake.. it was def faster than my 06 so i was really happy.. about 2 months ago it stopped running on me on my way home, it ended up being a crank pos. sensor failure, however i decided it was time to drop in the built motor.
I towed the car to iAG performance, got them to pull my built motor out of its resting spot in the wrecked 06 wrx, they checked timing again to verify it was ok, replaced the oil pan & rear timing cover, dropped in a southbend clutch kit good for 500wtq, and returned the car to me... this is where ill pick up with the pictures and mods here in a bit but here is a basic rundown of what ive got now, im going for a tune in a week and a half with Cleo @ iAG performance.. (formally with precision in NJ)

04 STi 6spd drivetrain (stock)
06 WRX EJ255 - Stock D25 heads / Artie @ iAG built shortblock 8.2:1 comp.
Manley Forged pistons, Manley Rods, FHI updated nitrated crank
ACL coated bearings
Headstuds, block bolts, case bolts etc
SPT motor mounts, trans mount, pitchstop
Southbend Stg2 DD clutch (full face rated @ 500wtq)
iAG Airpump Delete
iAG Billet Half moons
PCV Delete (and all other evap stuff deleted(emissions))
KillerB Oil Pickup
Grimspeed ported headers with Highflow X-pipe
FobiaFab Rotated Uppipe (2-bolt ~ vband)
FobiaFab EWG dump tube (vband)
FobiaFab Rotated Downpipe (vband)
Tial 38mm EWG (vband)
Grimspeed 3port EBCS
Precision 5858 JB .82 vband in/out ex.housing
iAG custom shortram Intake w/ Long Cone filter (K&N maybe not sure)
Rotated intake manifold (powdered by Alloy Wheel Repair)
Deleted TGV's (DIY)
Grimspeed 3mm phenolic spacers
Custom 2.5" FMIC piping (aluminum)
Synapse Syncronic Blowoff valve (newer 2port version)
Treadstone TR1045 fmic
Mishimoto 3row Xline Radiator
Mishimoto aluminum fan shroud/fans
Element Tuning Catch Can
Walboro 400lph pump (w. wiring mod to pump & controller)
Fuel Injector Clinic 1100cc topfeed injectors
iAG fuel rails
Aeromotive FPR w/ -8an braided lines
OMNI 4bar map sensor
GM open element intake air temp sensor
Cobb AP v2 Speed Density tune @ iAG Performance w/ Cleo (93oct) 400whp/387wtq @ 23.5psi was the last numbers i saw before a misfire on all cyl (bad crank position sensor) - its fixed as of today (9-17-14) and i believe cleo will be doing final smoothing ended up 400/364 @ 22psi on dyno - builds 23psi on the street so maybe 400/375 on the street?

BLING/NON PWR MAKING:
Jdm Ver8 Seats - rears removed
NRG short hub adapter / quick disconnect
Momo Mod30 "D" shaped wheel
Aem Uego wideband a/f gauge
Stri amber/black boost gauge
HKS type0 turbo timer
Megan front & rear strut bars
Megan fwd H-brace (ladder brace)

NOT INSTALLED YET:
Mocal/Setrab oil cooler/Mishimoto thermostatic sandwich plate (putting in topmount location w. custom splitter)

Im getting tuned 8/21/14 (ended up being a month later due to typical bs) and will update with number then.. i will also post the process of going rotated and the many fun adventures i took myself on. it was a learning process to say the least, but everything turned out great and im pumped to see it all work together !

lil preview pic of when i brought it back from the fmic piping fab.
http://i.imgur.com/RaU1pbU.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/MSFZA17.jpg
^EJ257 that came out^

http://i.imgur.com/wF365Bn.jpg
^leaving iAG with the built motor / clutch installed, and trans leak fixed^
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Last edited by 06rexLTD; 10-06-2014 at 10:26 AM.
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Old 08-13-2014, 10:02 AM   #2
06rexLTD
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 281793
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: BALTIMORE
Vehicle:
2004 STi
WRB

Default

Ok, so first things first, went to uhaul and rented a car transport and took the STi up to iAG performance to get my built shortblock EJ255 from my 06Ltd, have a southbend stg2 500tq clutch installed, and had the input shaft seal fixed on the trans.. in the mean time i went on the mission of ordering my plethora of parts to make this car move in a forward direction at an acceptable rate lol. After getting the car back, and to my house I went ahead and took the alternator and got it tested before hacking it all up for no reason <-- good idea. Initially, i cut out the bottom cage of the alternator to allow me to drop it lower than the case would allow then installed it to check for clearance vertically. I was following fullrace's instructions as a sort of guideline but found that not everything they list is necessary.. i used grimspeed 3mm phenolic spacers, grimspeed tgv-block gaskets on either side making it approx 4mm-ish then obtained m8X1.25-100mm hardware from a local hardware store that has been a godsend throughout this build. i had bought a KS tech throttle body spacer (3/4") but it only made the throttle body interfere with the back of the alternator so i scrapped that. Rotating the TB 90 degrees meant i had to mill out the intake manifold to allow the plastic box (now on top) to fit without touching allowing a complete seal. I ended up milling the alternator down like full race recommends, but found that clearance to the ac belt was still WAY TOO CLOSE for comfort.. this took me to the decision of cutting the bottom of the entire case out in order to provide maximum clearance..Finally, after all this, i had to mill out the bracket for the tensioner as the alternator was sitting lower than the slot was designed for.. Originally was going to use a 45 deg reducing coupling from silicone intakes . com but the kid i had make my piping said he could get it into the TB without it essentially making it look cleaner, and he did....

http://i.imgur.com/icDq3A1.jpg
^ Original first cut of the case ^

http://i.imgur.com/FA2XIIM.jpg
^ Ran a string from pulley to pulley to make my marks ^

http://i.imgur.com/FuNV7aT.jpg
^after milling face per full race insturctions for belt clearance^ (was still too close for comfort for me)

http://i.imgur.com/GjRGxqy.jpg
^belt clearance after originial cuts/milling^

http://i.imgur.com/PooEuz8.jpg
^after i decided to just cut the entire bottom corner of the case out^

http://i.imgur.com/JhBAriC.jpg
^tensioner slot extended down to reach mounting point on alt^

http://i.imgur.com/ZS41r4t.jpg
^Finished & painted black with the 45 deg coupling i ended up ditching^

Last edited by 06rexLTD; 08-13-2014 at 12:07 PM. Reason: added pics
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Old 08-13-2014, 10:36 AM   #3
06rexLTD
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Member#: 281793
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: BALTIMORE
Vehicle:
2004 STi
WRB

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next up was getting the Grimspeed ported/coated headers w/ highflow xpipe in and the uppipe mounted.. when you put the headers in leave ALL the connections LOOSE ! this will make it 10x easier on you, i used Grimspeed x2 thick gaskets across the board with copper RTV (i like to make sure i dont have to revisit anything lol).. i utilized the Fobiafab rotated kit (from what i understand he is a member on iwsti (fobiawrx) not sure if hes on nasioc but either works for, or is close to the fellas @ NF performance. the kits welds look great, and the placement of the turbo was about spot on for not being specifically made for my individual car.. after getting this stuff on, i realized the power steering lines were directly in the way and going to have to be relocated<-- this was the biggest whore of the entire process imo.

http://i.imgur.com/r52Y77o.jpg
^Fobia Rotated Vband kit^

http://i.imgur.com/WrkBp4B.jpg
^Fobia kit again w. Tial 38mm WG^

http://i.imgur.com/jGl080t.jpg
^close up of uppipe ^

http://i.imgur.com/qCAGZ95.jpg
^Grimspeed headers before install^

http://i.imgur.com/OSqnfYI.jpg
^Pwr Steering lines being ignorant^ - i will touch on the retrofit of the new ones later as that was a process in itself

Last edited by 06rexLTD; 08-13-2014 at 10:43 AM.
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Old 08-13-2014, 10:48 AM   #4
06rexLTD
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Member#: 281793
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: BALTIMORE
Vehicle:
2004 STi
WRB

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sometime near all this i decided i wanted to revamp my headlights, so i had a friend who runs a small business out of his house doing headlights (check @automotiveoptics on IG his work is amazingly clean) so we baked them , took em apart, and painted the trim, removed the ambers, put em back together, wet sanded, polished and shot em with clear and they turned out awesome, however i beleive we are about to pull them back apart and put mishimoto projectors with bi-xenon DS2's , black out the entire reflector and paint the projectors trim ring WRB.. anywhoo, this is the transformation made thus far, will update after the projectors are retrofitted...

http://i.imgur.com/yQELvRQ.jpg
^baked & split^

http://i.imgur.com/ESe9NSX.jpg
^spraying the trim rings^

http://i.imgur.com/qdhyRbt.jpg
^after putting them back together^

http://i.imgur.com/tOclCQE.jpg
^after the wetsand/polish/clear coat^

http://i.imgur.com/pKkHSUv.jpg
^back up in der^

http://i.imgur.com/eXAkWvP.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/yEKuj4J.jpg
^also picked up some Ver8 JDM seats from MDJDM motors in gaithersburg MD^

Last edited by 06rexLTD; 08-13-2014 at 10:54 AM.
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Old 08-13-2014, 10:57 AM   #5
06rexLTD
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Member#: 281793
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: BALTIMORE
Vehicle:
2004 STi
WRB

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ok so now i had completely removed the power steering lines from the passenger side of the rack to the pump/tank .. got the turbo installed on the uppipe, connected the downpipe and mated them to the A'pexi GTspec exhaust.. everything was a little off at first but i kept the Vband connections loose and torqued all the connections down on the exhaust and after removing it, the second time it all went together fairly smooth.. i did have to bend my breaklines that run up the passenger sturt tower out of the way, and beat the strut in about 1/4-1/2" to allow proper clocking of the precision 5858 to my liking.. i also re-wrapped all the rotated kit since the previous wrap job was saturated in oil (blown turbo i suspect)

http://i.imgur.com/idWXbyC.jpg
^installed on uppipe^

http://i.imgur.com/TYkEiQ7.jpg
^break lines ghettoly bent out of the way for now^

cant find any pictures of the strut tower beat in but i used a ball peen hammer and it turned out perfect, its barely noticable **actually you can see where i scratched the paint on either side of the turbo on the strut tower to mark where i was beating it in, that last pic is post beating lol.. also, new hardlines are being ran from the abs module to the passenger strut to look clean i would never leave it like that lol.

Last edited by 06rexLTD; 08-13-2014 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 08-13-2014, 11:11 AM   #6
06rexLTD
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Member#: 281793
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: BALTIMORE
Vehicle:
2004 STi
WRB

Default

up next was getting the Treadstone TR1045 frount mount mounted, cutting the front bumper so it fit (fmic is 4.5" thick so yea was a little worried it may not make it), then id be ready to get get my piping made by this young lad i found about 20 min north of me who welds out of his garage and taught himself.. he did a great job besides cheating the last 90 deg bend going into the turbo (last in fab order, first bend following airflow direction).. i am having him fix this after my tune but for now it will do, it just annoys me. (decided on using 2.5" all the way due to the giant fmic core.. hoping this will help with pressure drop)

http://i.imgur.com/LJJb9kd.jpg
^used a 90$ ebay fmic mounting bar, had to make holes obv but it worked well^

http://i.imgur.com/oVMrVgn.jpg
^my measuring / drilling was a bit off, but you wont see it and its sturdy so bleh^

http://i.imgur.com/IasekFw.jpg
^front bumper cut with dremel plastic wheel 3/4 speed then cleaned up with one of the grinding attachements^

http://i.imgur.com/Ha0bfuu.jpg
^just followed the stock "bump in" line around the back, cut from the inside^

http://i.imgur.com/a6DAY8F.jpg
^fitment to the bumper now^ - note i had to cut off the stock tabs on the bottom of the subframes front to make room for the fmic*

http://i.imgur.com/00NV2aM.jpg
^picked up from the piping fab and back to my house^

http://i.imgur.com/ngiPfA6.jpg
^from the other side^

http://i.imgur.com/kV6gROp.jpg
^from the top^

Last edited by 06rexLTD; 08-13-2014 at 11:20 AM.
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Old 08-13-2014, 11:41 AM   #7
06rexLTD
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Member#: 281793
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: BALTIMORE
Vehicle:
2004 STi
WRB

Default

forgot to add that before i got the fmic piping done, i had put the mishimoto 3row radiator with the mishimoto shroud in and it was a super tight fit, i was worried that the fans were too close to the block for the piping but we were able to run across the top of it then drop down the side, i had to cut the brackets for the radiator overflow off to make room and am making a custom aluminum box to go where the battery was for radiator overflow / windsheild washer fluid.. i used the foam stripping with the adhesive on one side between the shroud and radiator for maximum pull from the fans. After piping was installed i had to move the power steering reservoir a tad, and re-route the lines to the pump and from the rack (i used -6an fittings for the low side and technafit line with an adapter for the rack fitting on the other side (more on this later)... and i also obtained a set of deleted TGVs that were UGLLLYYYY so i had to take my dremel skills to the table again and clean them up. also at some point in the mix i installed a NRG short hub adapter/ Quick disconnect, MOMO wheel and i did the clockspring mod where i took the center and fitted it to the short hub to retain blinker cancel, as well as ran a piece of amp power wire in a loop removing the insulation at the top of the loop and connecting it to the oem horn wire and letting the open copper at the top of the loop ride against the back of the hub adapter to retain horn use. relocated my STRi boost gauge to the new SMY cluster pod as well as installed the AEM Uego wideband on the other side..

http://i.imgur.com/Ny6kxNY.jpg
^primary install of the new radiator^

http://i.imgur.com/9aFlGEn.jpg
^another shot lower in the bay across the front of the belts^

http://i.imgur.com/H5LDqRe.jpg
^NRG short hub/disconnect installed & SMY cluster pod / wideband / boost gauge ^

http://i.imgur.com/JRiBwSh.jpg
^and again with the MOMO wheel installed^

http://i.imgur.com/AsGUwvs.jpg
^TGVs after working my magic^

Last edited by 06rexLTD; 08-13-2014 at 12:05 PM.
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Old 08-13-2014, 12:12 PM   #8
06rexLTD
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Member#: 281793
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: BALTIMORE
Vehicle:
2004 STi
WRB

Default

next up was the walboro 400lph intank pump install with wiring mod to the pump & pump controller.. you can search to figure out the mod, but in a nutshell you run direct 12ga wire from the battery, to a fuse, to a relay, straight to the pump. then you splice into the fuel pump controllers ground with 12ga and run that to a chasis ground to pick up the extra load and then take the original power wire and hit the other side of the relay to tell it to kick on.(12v pwr is constant to the relay since the fpc vaires pump duty by pulsing ground) i ended up sealing the hole in the tank lid with epoxy as the rtv i used orginally wasnt suitable for my standards.

http://i.imgur.com/umyNxtc.jpg
stock pump out, you have to rotate it counterclockwise about 90 deg and kinda lean it over as it comes out and turn back clockwise a tad, you can do it ! just dont be too rough.

http://i.imgur.com/s9HzLHm.jpg
^12ga wiring thru the lid of the tank (i used crimp connections and shrink wrap.. some ppl frown upon this but im very particular and am 100% confident between the crimping, heatshrink, and waterproof but connectors the connections will be just as good as any

http://i.imgur.com/pCYrv79.jpg
^walboro400 hung, stock filter retained, power wire connected, adapter harness used to get ground connected to oem wiring^
** i had to remove and cut the two screws that hold the bottom portion of the hanger to the top, they were touching the pumps case and from what ive read this can cause it to ground out? idk but i wasnt taking chances, removing the pump assembly isnt too fun**

http://i.imgur.com/jAsJoGg.jpg
^tank lid on, body lid on, grommet fitted in outer lid and wiring run to the side and behind the fabric panel^

http://i.imgur.com/I4lRuIs.jpg
^and last but not least the 40amp, single pole-single throw relay^

Last edited by 06rexLTD; 08-13-2014 at 12:19 PM.
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Old 08-13-2014, 12:22 PM   #9
06rexLTD
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Member#: 281793
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: BALTIMORE
Vehicle:
2004 STi
WRB

Default

after all this, it was on to the catchcan install, the aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, synapse syncronic bov plumbing, grimspeed ecbs plumbing(which i had to replace all the fittings in bc they were too small to accomodate the wastegate/turbo housing nipples) everything was fairly straight fwd. catchcan had me stumped for a sec but got some advice from a few people.. mounted the ebcs on the top passenger corner of the trans right by the wastegate in order to keep the sides of the bay as clean as possible. jumped off the stock fuel lines in the bay with some homemade brass transition pcs hidden inside of 3/4 heater hose (turned out quite nice ) figured this would be fine as the stock fuel system is supportive of 475whp+ so flow wise we'd be ok... only place the catchcan would work out was on the driver strut tower mounted where the support brackets for the stock fuel lines where..

http://i.imgur.com/byGX4iR.jpg
^my original plan WHICH WAS CORRECT , however i flip flopped which valve cover connections went to the can / equalized pressure (blue hooked to red location on valve cover red hooked to blue location as depicted in the above picture, i used the baffled connections to the can to minimize oil passing thru the lines.. **im an idiot and i drew this correct.. how i have the pic is to the baffled connections and the right way, iag ended up correcting me on this & i apologize for the false info

http://i.imgur.com/GOWthZK.jpg
^element tuning catch can in place^

http://i.imgur.com/GMae98b.jpg
^(you can see one of my homemade brass adapter fittings sticking out by the cans filter)^

http://i.imgur.com/4qwaJYn.jpg
^better shot of the ebcs^

http://i.imgur.com/Ebo6OLg.jpg
^Regulator mounted and plumbed from stock lines to reg to rails^

http://i.imgur.com/4qTfel6.jpg
^Guided the line to the passenger rail with this clamp to the bottom of the intake mani^

http://i.imgur.com/bLd7n3C.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/e4FCvSy.jpg
^synapse bov plumbed to old brake booster port & used one of the leftover 90 fittings that came with the ebcs^

Last edited by 06rexLTD; 08-29-2014 at 06:10 PM.
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Old 08-13-2014, 12:42 PM   #10
06rexLTD
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Member#: 281793
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: BALTIMORE
Vehicle:
2004 STi
WRB

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another thing i did somewhere inbetween all the above Fudgery was delete the coolant expansion tank due to the fact i am running a precision oil cooled turbo and there is no need for it anymore, and again, less clutter - less lines.

basically there is a banjo bolt with about 8" of hardline off the back of the block, this is a coolant line. i removed the bracket holding it (my dumbass didnt realize there was one and was trying to figure out why it wouldnt move after loosening the banjo lol) and i turned it to point straight up in the air. i then took heater hose of the correct diameter and ran it to the black hardline running back across the block and down to the water pump.. i cut the black line back with a dremel so the 90 turning up between the passenger side of the manifold was no more. i also looped the lines to and from the throttle body to themselves.

http://i.imgur.com/Pv7tn2G.jpg
^connection from banjo/hardline on back of block to the hardline i cut back running back cross to the driver side of the block & dwn to pump^

- on a side note, that open hole you see just above the 90deg elbow out of the block to the catchcan is the hole i used to mount the ebcs -
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Old 08-15-2014, 12:24 PM   #11
06rexLTD
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Member#: 281793
Join Date: May 2011
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Location: BALTIMORE
Vehicle:
2004 STi
WRB

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last night i relocated the battery to the trunk, ran the power line up the driver side and out the grommet beneath the clutch pedal.. pretty straight fwd.. i used a battery relocate kit from pepboys, then bought a 6$ battery box from walmart to catch and crap the battery may or may not spit out.. combined the mounting tray that came with the kit with the box and it turned out nicely.. picking up a new VSS today from subaru and the front o2 sensor from napa.. also, alloy wheel repair just got finished my powder for under the hood

http://i.imgur.com/5KOnZHP.jpg
^battery relocated / installed^

http://i.imgur.com/yF3T00X.jpg
^throttle body sprayed black^

http://i.imgur.com/MbCQVeG.jpg
^intake mani, TGVs, and Strutbar Ends^

also, i almost forgot i slapped in some iAG radiator stays to be easier on the eyes....
http://i.imgur.com/BA2mnEo.jpg
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Old 08-15-2014, 06:41 PM   #12
Faisal220
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Nice keep up the good work
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Old 08-15-2014, 08:54 PM   #13
06rexLTD
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Join Date: May 2011
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Location: BALTIMORE
Vehicle:
2004 STi
WRB

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faisal220 View Post
Nice keep up the good work
Thanks man.. this is the first time ive ever got into a build myself this involved but honestly its just time consuming.. you just cant settle for "alright" with anything and gotta pay attention to detail...

Gettin tuned thursday, im pumped.
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Old 08-17-2014, 08:23 PM   #14
2slo4me
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Looking Good!
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Old 08-18-2014, 01:20 AM   #15
06rexLTD
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Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: BALTIMORE
Vehicle:
2004 STi
WRB

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http://i.imgur.com/Fr1lbDm.jpg

Im doing this from my phone while driving. .lol (ive been busy so cut me a break)

Everything is done except the injectors plugged due to the plugNPlay harness' failing to plugNplay.. calling fuel injector clinic first thing tomorrow morning to resolve the issue. .

EDIT... : So i contacted Fuel Injector Clinic this morining and was informed that in order to get the harness' to plug into eachother (pNp harness to 04 STi wiring harness plugs) i have to remove the guides from the sides of the plug itself on the pNp harness - to be honest im not too thirlled about this, im being informed that because the 04STi is originally side feed that there is no such thing as a true adapter.. i had thought before that the guides on the sides of the plug were just offset to the wrong side and the retaining nub on the bottom was supposed to be on the top to catch the clip on the harness side. they are infact up side down, and i do infact have to modify them to fit... i will be taking pictures and doing a more specific write up on this as im sure this is confusing.. but basically , if you go from sidefeed to topfeed and recieve plugNplay adapter harness' for topfeed, your sidefeed harness injector plug will NOT match the ones provided

http://i.imgur.com/pxu9l0S.jpg
^^ orange arrows/orange circle = harness clip (staying as is) .. yellow arrows = what FIC wants me to remove in order to have the adapter clips plug into the harness clip...this worries me a bit, i wont lie, however ill feel a lot better after i do this later on and see how tight it keeps the connection.. my plan is to utilize a miniscule amont of silicone on the male side to snug it up but still allow for removal and to not allow any into the connection. im not 100% on this silicone idea but ill cross that bridge when i get there.. EDIT: DITCHED SILICONE IDEA, SHAVED SIDES OF PLUGS AND THEY CLIPPED SECURE ENOUGH THAT IM NOT WORRIED ABOUT THEM... ILL CHECK THEM EVERY SO OFTEN WITH A TUG THOUGH TO BE SAFE FOR THE FIRST FEW WEEKS OF DAILYING THE CAR

Last edited by 06rexLTD; 08-29-2014 at 06:15 PM.
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Old 08-18-2014, 01:21 AM   #16
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Double posted like a rere.. my b
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Old 08-18-2014, 01:33 AM   #17
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quality work subscribed
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Old 08-18-2014, 01:38 AM   #18
06rexLTD
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Thanks man, this is my first time going IN on a build by myself.. ive always done the easy stuff and decided it was time for a challenge.. it actually wasnt horrible until the harness was in place and I wemt to set the intake mani for the last time.. I still plan on taking it back out after the tune.. pinning the harness to plywood and de-looming it and deleting all the unecessary plugs for a cleanliness sake. I appreciate your appreciation lol. .

Joe
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Old 08-18-2014, 03:13 AM   #19
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Quick question for anyone out there who has messed with the wiring harness.. I obviously have 4 plugs left over from the TGVs but also, dead center of the block I got (2) more 2 pin connectors that have no destination (i believe on theyre the plug for the pcv valve and the air pump, which have both been deleted..) can somone confirm this maybe? Ill attach a pic tomorrow morning for farther clarification. .

EDIT: BLACK PLUG IS FOR EVAP STUF THAT I DID AWAY WITH, IM NOT WORRIED ABOUT EMISSIONS, I HAVE A WAY AROUND THAT.. THE GREY PLUG HOWEVER WAS TO MY CRANK SENSOR, IT WAS BENEATH THE ALTERNATOR AND I COULDNT SEE IT. ROOKIE MISTAKE BUT HEY, NEXT TIME ILL REMEMBER ; )

http://i.imgur.com/27KDdM3.jpg

Thanks in advance

Joe

Last edited by 06rexLTD; 08-29-2014 at 06:16 PM.
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Old 08-18-2014, 04:20 AM   #20
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WAIT IAG changed tuners? What happened with Jorge?
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Old 08-18-2014, 04:32 AM   #21
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Its not officially announced, and idk if I was supposed to put it out there yet, but, they are going to announce very soon that they picked up a full time tuner ( who happens to be cleo; formally from precision in NJ....) I think the scheduling restrictions with jorge and the whole once a month thing just couldnt keep up..
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Old 08-18-2014, 01:06 PM   #22
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Ok, back to business ~~ when i installed the wiring harness i wanted to keep it running in a way as stock as possible due to the fact that (A) its an extremely tight fit as is, and (B) there isnt much slack AT ALL to "reach" connections. Also, i utilized Grimmspeed 3mm Phenolic spacers and oem gaskets on either side.. this stack made setting the manifold down on top of it difficult due to trying to keep all the gaskets lined up bc the thickness wouldnt let the top oem gasket to rest on the guide rod. due to this, i ran my grounds off the harness to the grouding box i insalled on each side of the bay pictured below, and temporarily to get up and running used red 8ga amp power wire which will provide plenty of ground for the harness.

http://i.imgur.com/e8MiVwG.jpg
^^ crude pic of harness routing, white boxes = main connections, orange arrows show general routing, it gos beneath both rails (itll fit, its tight but it will i guess depending on your rails^^

http://i.imgur.com/AplKOcu.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/imCryP1.jpg

After my tune on Thursday i plan on pulling the harness back out, pinning it down to a piece of plywood, de-looimg it, and doing away with unnecessary clips.. im planning on just de-pinning them then taping the wires down to the harness inline to hide them.

On a side note, getting the Throttle body & map sensor plugged in.. i had run the harness a little to far around the driver side manifold and ended up working it back towards the fire wall, then had a friend pull on it while i plugged it into the Throttle body, same for the map sensor..

next i moved onto the GM open element IAT sensor (intake air temperature) .. this was already placed immediately before the throttle body on the charge pipe, right as it makes the last bend. I had some kicker brand wire laying around that had a blue/black insulation and utilized this to make the connection over to the 2 wires off my MAF sensor for intake air temp. and soldered/heat shrunk all the connections.

I also plumbed all the vac lines that were left, & capped off any that were unused. i kept everything flowing in the same direction, pretty much from the center of the bay towards the driver side as best i could.

http://i.imgur.com/gTQj8JC.jpg

i left out that before this i installed the injectors into the TGVs, then wiggled my iAG rails into place and popped the tops of the injectors into the rails, then secured the rails to the TGVs per their mounting location. i had to turn the injectors so that the plugs were facing backwards towards the interior of the car and forwards towards the front bumper for the fronts in order to allow ample room to get the adapter over the injectors and pop on the C-clip (i got a feeling this is going to prob going to be a pain in the ass for the rail on the driver side as there is all kinds of fun stuff in the way..

http://i.imgur.com/jjZHeFW.jpg

I also found the best way to run my harness that comes out of the firewall on the passenger side was right along the frame rail and straight up towards the passenger side headlight, well doing this runs it semi close to the turbo and just for piece of mind i decided to take the DEI heat sleeve that came with my catch can and cut it long ways, then i wrapped it around the harness as neatly as possible and secured it with Stainless band ties so i didnt have to worry about them melting.. i think between this and the fact the up/down pipe are wrapped and i got a ptp blanket on the turbos hotside, errthang will be just dandy.

http://i.imgur.com/GDG2sio.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Dd7rUzo.jpg

Last edited by 06rexLTD; 08-18-2014 at 01:37 PM.
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Old 08-18-2014, 05:51 PM   #23
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I can't wait to see your results! I'm doing almost the exact same build. Not many Subie guys run PTE turbos smaller than a 6262 but they're all really popular with the Evo crowd. I'm really curious to see how it does, which is why I decided to try one on my car as well. Only main differences are mine will be on a hybrid motor with P&P 2.0 heads with Kelford 272 cams and I'll be picking up the BB 5858 as my tuner said not to get a JB Precision whatsoever. I was also deciding which Treadstone core to get as I will be having someone (same guy who's making my turbo kit, morrocco88) fab up intercooler piping for me as well. Any particular reason you went with the TR1045 over any others? I had their STI intercooler on my last car and while the core was awesome, the piping, couplers, and clamps were balls so I won't be getting the kit again.
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Old 08-18-2014, 06:40 PM   #24
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In for tuning results.
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Old 08-18-2014, 07:59 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DerekB707 View Post
In for tuning results.
You mean in to see if this turbo will spank yours.
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