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08-05-2009, 08:22 PM | #1 |
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need advice on boost leak test and tester??....
I wanted to know whats the easiest way to do a boost leak test and the cheapest.. Alot of people told me to make one which im looking into it to do it , but i also saw a person did one by covering the intake and pressurizing the bpv vacuum line.. My question is which one is the easiest to do? ( picture are a plus thanks)
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08-05-2009, 10:00 PM | #2 |
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Location: in bed...
Vehicle:2002 Impreza WRX WRBlue Perl |
A quick and relatively easy way is to simply purchase a pvc pipe cap from a hardware store, as well as a matching silicon/rubber coupler that will couple the MAF tube or the inlet of the compressor (depending on whether you are rotated or not) and the pvc cap.
You install a tire stem into it by using a drill to drill a small hole into the middle of the cap (careful not to drill too big a hole), and then install the tire stem in place (it's easy once you see the stem), followed by some epoxy to hold and seal it in place.. You then secure the cap (using the coupler section) over the compressor inlet of your turbo (if using a rotated setup ), or just prior to the MAF housing (if non-rotated) using that hose coupler section, and then pressurize the system using an electric tire pump or whatever compressor you have.. You ideally need something with a regulator so that you can control how much pressure you force in. In a way, you are pumping the intake side of the engine up like a tire. While as the compressor builds up pressure in the system (this might take a while, depending on how powerful your compressor is...I use a compact electric tire compressor powered by the cigarette lighter, so takes a minute or two to build pressure), use a spray bottle containing soapy water, and spray around lines, connections, FPR, pipe connections, etc, looking for bubbles to form. If you have a leak, you will see bubbles forming from the leak. Alternatively, you can pressurize the system, and then listen for the tell-tale hissing sound of air escaping, and then track it down with your good ear. This requires that you have somewhere without much ambient noise... There is a lot of conflicting info regarding how high to pressurize the system, but I play it safe and usually pressurize to about 3-5 psi, since by then, the pvc cap is ready to pop off. By then anyhow, any major leaks are quite apparent. Sorry, no pics, but it is pretty much as I just described it. It's really easy once you build the tester using the parts mentioned above. You just need to decide where you want to pressurize the system from... the compressor inlet of the turbo, or the inlet tube, between the MAF and air filter, and then buy the appropriate cap and coupler to attach to those areas to cap off the system for pressurizing. |
08-06-2009, 12:10 AM | #3 |
Scooby Newbie
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o ok thanks i will do that time to go to home depot .. thanks alot
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08-06-2009, 01:51 PM | #4 |
Former Vendor
Member#: 178047
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Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: AZ
Vehicle:02 WRX STI Spec C Black |
Or you can buy one and have it shipped..
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...roducts_id=162 Or http://www.machv.com/macvleaktes.html Another type like mine: http://www.turbo4wd.com/Turbo4WD/ICPressureTester.html Put 10 to 15 psi in, Spray with a mixture of Soap and water.. Lots of soap. Any leak that is found ANYWHERE should be fixed. The car should have NO leaks at 15 psi. This is the single most important thing you can do. I dream of the day when every Nasioc member buys,makes or borrows a leak tester. Most of the time, we find leaks all over the place. Any leak from the Throttlebody to the MAF will cause lots of issues with Drivability and power. PRESSURE test YOUR intake and FIX the leaks BEFORE getting tuned! Clark |
08-08-2009, 03:07 AM | #5 |
Scooby Specialist
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Vehicle:2006 WRX Red |
clark,
i wanna buy what u had... any problems if the pipes are diff in size? how abt leak post tb? |
08-08-2009, 05:37 PM | #6 |
Former Vendor
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You can get different size couplers.. Or make adapters.
Clark |
08-09-2009, 04:42 PM | #7 |
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Don't you have to also apply vacuum or pressure to the bpv line as well?
I read somewhere that it is not just as simple as pressurizing the intake side. There are other considerations which will skew the results or actually NOT allow the system to pressurize. Anyone care to elaborate who has done a bunch of this on different model years/configurations? (hint hint....Clark) |
08-09-2009, 04:57 PM | #8 |
Former Vendor
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Nope.. I have pressure tested hundreds of cars. Just put in 10 psi.. Spray with soap and water.. Find and fix leaks.
On earlier cars where there is a one way vac canister on the front of the manifold, You will hear a sound when you get up to 5 psi. This is ok. We call it the Kazoo. Clark |
08-09-2009, 05:17 PM | #9 |
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could old school it by spraying brake clean on the vacuum lines and when the car stumbles there is the leak
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08-09-2009, 05:19 PM | #10 |
Former Vendor
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That wont work.
You need to pressurize the intake. Some leaks wont show up until 5 psi or even 10 psi. Clark |
08-09-2009, 07:22 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
One more question here, Do you have to get the car to TDC like the earlier poster eluded to? |
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08-09-2009, 07:27 PM | #12 |
Former Vendor
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I have never had to rotate the motor. You can if you want.
C |
09-18-2009, 11:32 AM | #13 |
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Clark,
Car: 06 STI Do you need to remove the oil cap as well? My car is hitting boost target but I am unable to build pression with my small compressor for inflatable stuff... is there any hoses that should be pinched? |
09-18-2009, 11:44 AM | #14 |
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i will be needing to do one on mine too so will re read this thread and see what all i need to know lol thanks guys or i may just take it to shop but idk if i really want to spend the money on that
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09-18-2009, 12:12 PM | #15 |
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I plan on doing this, but am a bit nervous about blowing cam seals, which can happen. What's the best procedure for avoiding this? I've heard removing the oil cap, plugging the breathers, etc.
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09-18-2009, 12:44 PM | #16 |
Former Vendor
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Leave the oil cap on. Just pump air into the motor. I dont think the small compressor is going to have enough. You could use an Air tank..
C |
09-18-2009, 12:58 PM | #17 |
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I typically pressurize to 20-25 psi, thats where the REALLY pesky leaks show up. We just found WELD LEAKS in a brand new GARRETT turbo, but they only started to show at 15 psi!
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09-18-2009, 02:00 PM | #18 |
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Yeesh! That's scary . . . Did you just hear the leak, or did you use some sort of smoke, etc?
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01-11-2010, 01:58 AM | #19 |
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one thing - isn't there a possibility of blowing cam shaft seals @ 20-25psi with oil cap on?
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01-11-2010, 12:50 PM | #20 |
Former Vendor
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No. The cars see 20 psi on the road all the time.
C |
04-17-2020, 05:27 PM | #21 |
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Bad info?
I know this thread is ancient, but I disagree with Clark Turner. While these engines see 20psi frequently enough without breaking, they don't see 20psi in the crankcase, unless there is a serious amount of blowby and the PCV system can't keep up...
Best to open the oil cap IMHO. Just didn't want someone to read this and blow a cam seal (I haven't, personally, experienced this, but do believe it COULD happen if you don't vent the crankcase during a boost leak test). |
04-17-2020, 11:43 PM | #22 | |
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Quote:
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04-18-2020, 02:29 PM | #23 |
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You're probably right, but I still think that, as a general rule, you should be cautious about introducing pressure to places that generally don't see it during normal operation.
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