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Old 05-15-2018, 01:56 PM   #1
I--RIDE--BIKES
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Default Radium swivel an fittings

Anyone running these?

I installed a few on my build and just primed the system last night and fuel seeps out of them. Then if you wiggle it it literally shoots fuel onto my turbo. Kind of scary and am now terrified to run them at all. 3 out of 4 also had torn o-rings right on the top of the swivels from assembly at Radium.

Anyone experience similar issues?
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Old 05-15-2018, 03:55 PM   #2
JarHarms
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Oh that sucks. I am using one of those banjos to help fit Radium's venturi pump onto an oem hanger. So that would be under suction instead of pressure as your scenario. I have not placed it into service yet but when I was installing it, both inner o-rings were not damaged. They were hardly oiled either, so I would think if one was to start turning those un-oiled it might have risk. Zip for installation guidelines as well. Did you install the fittings without removing the cir-clip and banjo cover? Or installed as-received?
I could see how forgetting to oil them or assembly-in-anger would risk those. I've noticed they have some thickness variance on their viton 8an o-rings that is pretty frustrating. Some have a thinner cross section and some have a slightly thicker cross section. I wonder if that same could have happened on these inner banjo o-rings. Once that is too thick could just get effed up when assembled...?
I hope you can get it sorted out. Good luck.

v - that photo is the fitting mentioned. I also agree that these are suited for Lpsi apps (CC venting, etc) and not Hpsi apps (fuel, EOP, hyd).

Last edited by JarHarms; 05-16-2018 at 01:33 PM.
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Old 05-15-2018, 04:21 PM   #3
Delphi
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Are we talking these guys?



If so hi tech seals out in Winnipeg should be able to help you out in a pinch as they should have all the correct orings. Most likely the torn orings are your problem.
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Old 05-15-2018, 04:25 PM   #4
Bram
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I have seen numerous swivel fittings from other name brand manufactures leak like that. I dont nessisarily think its a fault with Radium fittings. Its an inherrent fault with "swivel" elbow hose ends.

I now refuse to use swivel hose ends. If i need a 90 (or any other angle). Then i dont buy a hose end with a 90 built into it. Instead I buy all straight hose ends and then buy seperate 90 male to female unions for where i need to have the angles.

Its a pain in the arse as those things arent cheap. But when you use all straight hose ends, and seperate angled unions, then you bypass all the swivel garbage.
Although you are introducing more parts, so you would think more potential places of failure, simple male-female unions are much easier to seal than a swivel fitting.

For fuel, I only use premium name brand PTFE hose / hose-ends. But have found you can use more economical no name / ebay style unions and basic fittings as these are more simple than the hose ends and hose.


EDIT : Didnt realise Radium did a banjo swivel thing. My comments above are directed at more traditional style swivel hose end fittings. I have not seen or used the radium swivel adapter things. But looking at it, i would be a little weary of using it. I know radium gear is usually top notch. But i dont like the idea of having presumably O-rings inside that banjo being able to constantly move and swivel like that. And is the same principle why i dont use swivel hose ends.

Last edited by Bram; 05-15-2018 at 04:54 PM.
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Old 05-16-2018, 03:38 AM   #5
dung96
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great post!
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Old 05-16-2018, 06:59 AM   #6
Samurai Jack
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If I understood your post correctly, the O-rings were already torn when you originally received them and not from something you did.

If you really want to use swivel ends, then I would contact Radium Engineering and explain the issue that the swivel O-rings were damaged prior to shipping. Radium should either ship out new O-rings to you immediately or replace what they sent you completely.

Personally, I don't use swivel ends. Not really necessary, I use fixed ends, in the appropriate angle needed, and just align the ends upon installation.

Fragola has nice stuff, which is what I use.
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Old 05-16-2018, 07:34 AM   #7
KillerBMotorsport
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I would highly recommend going to a bolted banjo with sealing washers.

I wouldn't run anything flammable, caustic, or under and decent pressure through a 'swivel' fitting. Swivel fittings have their place and it's not in a fuel system. If you need a rotary fitting, use a rotary fitting (Deublin probable makes something, and there are others that specialize in rotary fittings) made for such an application. Expect to pay a couple hundred+ $. Even at that any rotary fitting designed to hold fluid/pressure should have a spelled out service interval.
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Old 05-16-2018, 01:22 PM   #8
mrsaturn7085
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FHS Racing makes decent fittings, but yes, they are $150+ ea. for -6AN sizing.

The only place on a car that you should be using this type of fitting is:

1. where you *need* ~180 degree movement or multiple positioning without tools (I'll give an example below) or...

2. where you cannot properly stress relieve a line that is in constant motion, such as a line traveling between suspension and body, or transmission and body/radiator

In the latter scenario, this fitting is still not a substitute for properly plumbing the system - it is a Band-Aid.

I would never run fuel through these fittings, personally.

As far as an example of a valid use for these fittings, I personally run a transmission cooler through the radiator but have my lines set-up in a way that allows me to quick disconnect the cooler (via dry breaks), swivel one transmission side line 180 degrees, and connect back to the other transmission side fitting (eliminating the cooler circuit). This allows me to pull the transmission without making a mess, or in a pinch, keep the car running if for some reason the transmission cooling circuit was damaged or leaking.

Here's some images:


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Old 05-16-2018, 01:38 PM   #9
JarHarms
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrsaturn7085 View Post
...As far as an example of a valid use for these fittings, I personally run a transmission cooler through the radiator but have my lines set-up in a way that allows me to quick disconnect the cooler (via dry breaks), swivel one transmission side line 180 degrees, and connect back to the other transmission side fitting (eliminating the cooler circuit). This allows me to pull the transmission without making a mess, or in a pinch, keep the car running if for some reason the transmission cooling circuit was damaged or leaking....
Thumbs up that 6MT cooling hose setup....the R&R aspect alone is great. Are you using an oem auto-type rad, aftermarket rad with int cooler, or an external heat exchanger? I'd like to go a similar route but planning for the usual Subaru oem 6MT tube fittings and hoping for infrequent trans pulls.
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