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Old 08-22-2003, 01:36 PM   #1
Hank3
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Default Prodrive/UK300 light owners: Help needed

Was sitting at my local Wendy's for lunch just a little while ago; upon gazing at my car head-on, I realized that the orange blinker bulb is really ruining the clean look of these lights. I've noticed this all along, but I guess today I realized it in a different way

Has anyone modded their light so there's no orange blingin' out of the blinker assembly? If so, what type of bulb and wattage will I need? Thanks!!!
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Old 08-22-2003, 01:58 PM   #2
westy66
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Phillips makes a Silver Vision bulb that is silver and illuminates amber!!!

http://www.powerbulbs.com/products/p...offer&type=IND
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Old 08-22-2003, 02:09 PM   #3
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Thanks for the link and option. Do you know if the bulbs in that link will work with the Prodrives? And also, the actual bulb is silver coated then? Will that be seen through the headlight assembly lens? I mean I guess silver wouldn't be as obvious as orange, but I was thinking maybe a clear bulb? Don't know if that's possible...

Last edited by Hank3; 09-09-2003 at 09:00 AM.
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Old 08-24-2003, 10:31 PM   #4
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Old 08-24-2003, 11:01 PM   #5
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I wish I can help. The blinker bulbs were the only unknown piece in the assembly.

However, I don't use my UK300 lights any longer. I crashed at a track in New England and one of the assemblies was basically shattered. I'm back to oem lights now.

I'll take out the blinker bulb and give you the info that I can gather. post back in a few days.
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Old 08-24-2003, 11:36 PM   #6
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Bummer xstar That stinks that you have to drive at night w/o the lights. These lights are great - even better since I put HID's in them back in February. I just wanted to clean up the look a bit, so this seemed to be a farily easy and cheap mod Thanks for offering to help. I'll keep an eye on this thread...
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Old 08-26-2003, 10:31 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hank3
Thanks for the link and option. Do you know if the bulbs in that link will work with the Prodrives? And also, the actual bulb is silver coated then? Will that be seen through the headlight assemble lens? I mean I guess silver wouldn't be as obvious as orange, but I was thinking maybe a clear bulb? Don't know if that's possible...
The silver is more like a mirror finish, so you won't see it from the outside.

I think this should work based on this thread:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...e+silvervision

I have also been thinking about ordering these. (I should just do it and answer this question once and for all.)
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Old 08-26-2003, 04:34 PM   #8
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Orson - thanks for the link and your response. I went ahead and ordered a pair last night. Hopefully they'll get here soon - and if you still haven't bought them by then for your Prodrives, I could send you a pic
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Old 08-27-2003, 11:38 PM   #9
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Please post a pic when you get these. I was thinking about using them as well on mine!
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Old 08-28-2003, 12:17 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by Arnie
Please post a pic when you get these. I was thinking about using them as well on mine!
Will do Arnie
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Old 09-08-2003, 09:18 AM   #11
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Default Got them installed...

Shoot me a PM or email if you want pics They look schweeet!!!
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Old 09-09-2003, 08:51 AM   #12
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Thanks for letting us know about this nice mod for us UK300 owners! The pics you sent look fantastic. I've got this down on my "things to do" list for sure now.

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Old 09-09-2003, 09:03 AM   #13
Hank3
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Thumbs up You bet!!!

I'm really glad I did this mod. Fairly cheap and it never ceases to amaze me how little things can change your opinions on your own car. I really dig the cleaner look now of the lights...
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Old 09-09-2003, 09:19 AM   #14
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Hank3 - I hope you don't mind me sharing the photos you sent. If you do mind, e-mail me and I will take them down.





And for reference, here's my yellow-eyed version:

Last edited by Orson; 09-09-2003 at 01:11 PM.
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Old 09-09-2003, 09:53 AM   #15
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Orson - thanks for posting them up for me. Don't mind at all. I couldn't get those sites you referenced to work - or I guess I should say that I didn't really know how to link pics onto there. I've got some clearer/crisper version of those three pics. Email me again with your email and I can send those versions to you and you can post those up here instead? I'll downsize them to 640 x 480? LMK
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Old 09-09-2003, 12:34 PM   #16
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Yeah, looks great. Thanks for taking the plunge!

Now, a question for you UK300 folk, have any of you wired up your lights using an external relay with direct connection to the battery? So that you get maximum volts to the lighting system? I'm thinking of trying this out when I get the time. I know that there was a 1 volt drop at the high beams on my system using the RAlly Performance harness adaptor, so that is not too good.
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Old 09-09-2003, 01:16 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by Arnie
Yeah, looks great. Thanks for taking the plunge!

Now, a question for you UK300 folk, have any of you wired up your lights using an external relay with direct connection to the battery? So that you get maximum volts to the lighting system? I'm thinking of trying this out when I get the time. I know that there was a 1 volt drop at the high beams on my system using the RAlly Performance harness adaptor, so that is not too good.
I tried a harness from SUVlights.com but that didn't work because it separated the low-beam and high-beam circuits so that only one came on at any time. In the stock 9007 bulb, this is what you want, but with the UK300 lights, we want both the low-beam and high-beam on at the same time.

Since we have a ground-switched system, though, mulder gave the idea that it would be easy enough to run a fused wire from the battery to the common high wire on the harness. The only question that remains, then, is which wire is the common high? I'll try to make time to run out with a voltmeter.
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Old 09-09-2003, 01:27 PM   #18
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Orson, riiiight, I got the relay notion from reading your posts in that one thread discussing this. I will be installing some Hella FF1000's on wednesday with Andrew Bacon (he's an electrician) to help me out. We'll check the wiring out on the headlights and see what we can find.

I'd ideally like to run direct power for both the low and high beams. ya know, make sure that the lamps are getting the max voltage possible.

Last edited by Arnie; 09-09-2003 at 01:39 PM.
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Old 09-09-2003, 01:40 PM   #19
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I just did a quick multi-meter. I checked on the OEM vehicle 9007 vehicle-side connector (not at the conversion harness).

The middle wire is the common high and the other two are switched grounds. But it looks like making a direct link from the battery to the common high is only half the problem. With the low-beam and high-beam on, I measured a 1V drop from one switched ground to the battery ground and a 2V drop from the other switched ground to the battery ground. I forgot to measure the voltage drop from the common high to the battery. Doh.

Time to study that Rallyperformance harness a little closer.
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Old 09-09-2003, 01:56 PM   #20
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Yeah, we got the same 1 volt voltage drop as well.

As an aside, one of my Rally Performance harnesses was completely dead. We tested each of the wires and absolutely nothing. It looked like the wires made no contact to the spades in the 9007 adaptor and they just epoxied the whole thing together. What we did was buy a cheap 9007 bulb and soldered the wires to the base of that bulb after cutting off the bulb part.

I'll try to get Andy on this thread as he was doing the meat of the rewiring.

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Old 09-09-2003, 01:57 PM   #21
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Arnie- We can wire up a deal so that the OEM circiutry in your car is just turning 3 relays on and off, and the relay switches are making/breaking ground. Also, I think the 16-18 AWG wire that is in there is a bit small for the UK300, definately too small for those monster fogs, but is fine to turn the relays on and off.

You'll have to get some 14 AWG wire, 2 more relays & some split loom. I'll bring up my iron & stuff.

I'll draw up a quick scematic ASAP and fax it to you; send me your fax number when you get a chance.

Last edited by Andrew Bacon; 09-10-2003 at 03:32 PM.
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Old 09-09-2003, 02:15 PM   #22
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I haven't looked at UK300 wiring closely, but I assume that the input to the UK300 is still one common high and two switched grounds - is this correct? If so, it seems the only way to avoid butchering the UK300 wiring is to use relays to switch the ground and running a fused high wire to each headlamp.
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Old 09-09-2003, 02:29 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by Orson
I haven't looked at UK300 wiring closely, but I assume that the input to the UK300 is still one common high and two switched grounds - is this correct? If so, it seems the only way to avoid butchering the UK300 wiring is to use relays to switch the ground and running a fused high wire to each headlamp.
[edit] deleted misinformation regarding UK300 B+/Gnd. arrangement

Last edited by Andrew Bacon; 09-10-2003 at 03:17 PM.
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Old 09-10-2003, 01:23 PM   #24
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Here's Andrew's schematics:


{edit: deleted - see post below}


My quick time with a multimeter indicates a common positive on the middle pin, so I guess the second schematic applies here. The second schematic is pretty much what I had in mind.

Question, though: isn't the stock UK300 input connector also a single common high?

Last edited by Orson; 09-10-2003 at 03:19 PM.
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Old 09-10-2003, 02:48 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by Orson
...Question, though: isn't the stock UK300 input connector also a single common high?
[edit- see schematic]

Last edited by Andrew Bacon; 09-10-2003 at 03:34 PM.
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