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Old 02-13-2020, 05:22 PM   #31501
DieselDorf
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Itís never taken my car longer to heat up than 5 minutes.

This morning was single digits and I had heat at 3 mins. And not highway driving. Wonder if your thermostat isnít fully closing or something.
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Old 02-14-2020, 11:47 AM   #31502
IHaveAHorse
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No it's definitely working fine, friend's crosstrek takes about the same amount of time to heat up as when I don't use the block heater. We probably just have different ideas of fully warmed up. The cigarette lighter seat heater pad I use takes 10 minutes or so to warm up decently, you may have heated seats that heat up faster. When I'm cold I only consider the car fully warmed up when I have to turn the heat down because it's getting too hot, even though it's blowing warmish air within a few minutes.
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Old 02-14-2020, 07:11 PM   #31503
DieselDorf
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Yea my seat heaters are stock and heat up fully in about 3-4 minutes. If itís really cold I have to turn the heat off after about 15 minutes to where itís too hot.

I consider warned up when the temp light goes off since I get hot air and am not freezing anymore from the seat heater/hot air combo which takes about 3-5 minutes when really vcokd
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Old 02-14-2020, 07:36 PM   #31504
IHaveAHorse
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Oh yeah the temperature light goes off when I'm 3 or 4 minutes away from home unless I parked outside where it was -20 for a while, then it may take nearly 10 minutes.
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Old 02-14-2020, 07:56 PM   #31505
dcon9999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDorf View Post
Anyone able to help with fitting2 car seats in the back.

Our rear facing is too wide to fit in between the seats in the middle and the forward facing is too wide to fit on the center hump in the back seat. Any tips to not have them behind the drivers seat?

My seat has to be all the way back
If you have the ability, avoid using a rear-facing Britax car seat. They are too wide to sit in that middle spot. I was successful in using a Britax convertible forward-facing seat for my one and using a simple Graco rear-facing for my then infant. as they've gotten older at this point, one is in the five-point Britax booster and the other is in the convertible Britax forward facing both on each side of the car. I too can't move my seat up at all. but, the rear facing it's worth going to buy buy baby and trying a couple different ones before you buy it. The one by us was good enough to let us actually try to install multiple versions in both our cars before buying.
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Old 02-14-2020, 08:28 PM   #31506
DieselDorf
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We are getting new car seats since our littlest is moving out of the bucket carrier.

We are going to get diono slim fit seats and Iím hoping they will fit better side by side, I will report back next week when it gets here. Itís a lot slimmer than the graco 4ever that thing is a beast.
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Old 02-14-2020, 08:48 PM   #31507
dcon9999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDorf View Post
We are getting new car seats since our littlest is moving out of the bucket carrier.

We are going to get diono slim fit seats and Iím hoping they will fit better side by side, I will report back next week when it gets here. Itís a lot slimmer than the graco 4ever that thing is a beast.
I have the Britax marathon and Britax frontier. I did the marathon rear facing behind the passenger and the passenger seat needed to move up like 4 inches. Both are forward facing now in the same seats and they rock.
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Old 02-19-2020, 10:52 AM   #31508
FFWD
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My starter is acting up. It spins, but doesn't sound like it's turning the motor over, but at the same time it's not completely freewheeling, so somewhere in between. Does this mean the "magnet switch assembly" (according to the shop manual) needs to be rebuilt? And how does it work - does the magnet push/pull something together to make the starter motor contact the starter gear?
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Old 02-19-2020, 11:01 AM   #31509
FFWD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy1100 View Post
A short in the wiring would blow a fuse.

Here is the scenario, turn the key and you hear the starter spin at full speed, which according to FSM is almost 3000rpm. So let go of the key and try it again and it will engage the flywheel and start the engine.

This is what my original one did on and off for a few months(my 2nd one just started doing this), then it would start to bind and manner horrible grinding noises. Sometimes on attempt to start, sometimes after start on retraction.

Sounds way more like a mechanical interference issue than wiring. The starter is adjustable slightly, maybe 2mm. The FSM says nothing of this, so maybe it doesn't matter.

To me it is either the extreme cold causing the factory lube to harden, the 2nd starter i tore apart and added more synthetic lube prior to installation. Which hasn't apparently helped. Or the starter clutch is slipping and when it happens to stop on the bad cog it just spins.

I dunno.
Did you ever figure out whether that 2mm adjustment makes any difference?
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Old 02-19-2020, 04:26 PM   #31510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FFWD View Post
My starter is acting up. It spins, but doesn't sound like it's turning the motor over, but at the same time it's not completely freewheeling, so somewhere in between. Does this mean the "magnet switch assembly" (according to the shop manual) needs to be rebuilt? And how does it work - does the magnet push/pull something together to make the starter motor contact the starter gear?
Sorry, false alarm. Looks like the starter is fine, but the engine just wasn't firing. It took a LOT of attempts and eventually I would hear is barely cough. Kept trying until it finally sputtered to life. Car runs flawlessly once started.

As far as I can tell, I think it lost compression due to "bore wash", where the residual oil that seals the piston rings to the cylinders was rinsed out by the large volume of gas sprayed during the ECU's cold start map. 4 days ago, I had to move it from blocking our SUV, so it was started cold and only run for a minute or two, then left until this morning. The motor sounded different turning over, which is why I thought it might be the starter.
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Old 02-19-2020, 05:21 PM   #31511
DieselDorf
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So info from getting a diono (very narrow) car seat.

In either side in the backseat when rear facing the front seat has to be super far forward and st a terrible angle. I would not suggest running a diono rear facing if you want to use both front seats.

It will not fit in the center rear facing either as it hits the seats.

Diono forward facing gives a ton of room for kids legs, even when the front seats are all the way back whichbmine is. I would suggest using dionos only forward facing unless you donít have other people ride in the front seat ever.

They could most likely ft 3 wide forward facing or do 2 forward facing and have another smaller bucket seat for rear facing kids.
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Old 02-20-2020, 05:23 PM   #31512
CalTech87
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3k miles since short block replacement. No oil issues.

Something I do notice. When using the air (not AC) I get some "engine smell" through the vent when stopped. Havent smelt burn clutch since my wife was learning so I cant recall if its the same and I drive 95% highway. They did replace the TOB and fork at the advice I received here. I think by this time always smelling it I'd have larger issues if those were the cause.

Is there a coating on some new parts (small block) that may be burning off?

Last edited by CalTech87; 02-20-2020 at 05:45 PM.
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Old 02-20-2020, 06:48 PM   #31513
DieselDorf
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Pearl White

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Might have even spilled a little oil on the exhaust doesnít take much for a smell in the cabin.
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Old 02-20-2020, 08:39 PM   #31514
Angelus911
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I had a leak after my short block that dropped right on the exhaust. I waited too long to bring it up to them so I was SOL.

Possible itís just something residual, just keep an eye on it
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Old 02-21-2020, 01:00 PM   #31515
Haunty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FFWD View Post
Sorry, false alarm. Looks like the starter is fine, but the engine just wasn't firing. It took a LOT of attempts and eventually I would hear is barely cough. Kept trying until it finally sputtered to life. Car runs flawlessly once started.

As far as I can tell, I think it lost compression due to "bore wash", where the residual oil that seals the piston rings to the cylinders was rinsed out by the large volume of gas sprayed during the ECU's cold start map. 4 days ago, I had to move it from blocking our SUV, so it was started cold and only run for a minute or two, then left until this morning. The motor sounded different turning over, which is why I thought it might be the starter.
This has happened to me on occasion with my 2012 Impreza, but it happened more often when the car was newer, very rare now. For me it also happened more with warm starts, or when the outside temp was around 30-40 degrees F.
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Old 02-21-2020, 01:05 PM   #31516
nubsub
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CalTech87 View Post
3k miles since short block replacement. No oil issues.

Something I do notice. When using the air (not AC) I get some "engine smell" through the vent when stopped. Havent smelt burn clutch since my wife was learning so I cant recall if its the same and I drive 95% highway. They did replace the TOB and fork at the advice I received here. I think by this time always smelling it I'd have larger issues if those were the cause.

Is there a coating on some new parts (small block) that may be burning off?
no smell here, and i'm on an unusual run of having driven 5k in a little under 4 months. dip stick rock solid from what i can tell, and may be consuming less than my typical 0.5qt in 5-6k.

just took a road trip this weekend from NorCal to SoCal, with driving in the 70-72mph range with some traffic thrown in between... averaged 34-35mpg. (accounting for odometer error which according to Apple maps was right at the expected 2.8%)

still enjoy the car. plenty of power for two adults and one 7 year old and our luggage/gear. did fine going over the Grapevine (4000ft). the only time fine i have found the car lacking in power is at higher altitude with 4 adults in the car.

hope it can go another 85k!
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Old 02-21-2020, 01:41 PM   #31517
IHaveAHorse
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I'm not sure if these 2 things are related but the shipping company ran my car battery down by repeatedly starting my car to drive it 100 feet and shutting it off again during transport. It still started when they got here but no idea if they had to jump it, and it was baaaarely turning over. I drove for 20 minutes after they dropped it off even though my house was just down the street, starts fine after that, but now when I let my car sit for 3 or 4 days it's a slow turnover, not quite "barely made it" but not much better.

Battery is 4 or 5 years old at this point, the temperature when starting is 10-15f or so. Is it maybe just time to get a new battery if the rough starting in cold weather keeps up? I keep one of those lithium portable jump starters in my car so I'll never be stranded, maybe I could keep it through the summer and buy a new battery before next winter, whenever I see a sale on some at a walmart or auto parts store. Opinions, thoughts?
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Old 02-21-2020, 01:49 PM   #31518
IHaveAHorse
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Scratch that, I was thinking of my previous battery. I got an Interstate battery in Dec 2016. 45% off another battery from them if I use my pro rated warranty.
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Old 02-21-2020, 07:50 PM   #31519
Commander Keen
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Consider a Deka / East Penn battery. Highly rated and made in Pennsylvania.
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Old 02-21-2020, 09:17 PM   #31520
IHaveAHorse
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What are those branded as, and who carries them usually?
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Old 02-22-2020, 02:26 AM   #31521
Commander Keen
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They supply NAPA, but other brands may also.
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Old 02-22-2020, 07:03 AM   #31522
DieselDorf
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A guy at our local battery store said batteries typically last 4-6 years in colder climates.

Depends on the battery as well.

Not sure when mine was installed from the PO I do not think it is stock but Iím almost due for one as well.
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Old 02-22-2020, 07:21 PM   #31523
Angelus911
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Duracell Platinum are made by East penn and can be found at Sams Club or Batteries Plus
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Old 02-23-2020, 12:33 PM   #31524
IHaveAHorse
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Damn those are expensive though, $125 for the basic one with a 2 year warranty. It seems like with all car batteries you either buy a lower cost one without much of a warranty factored into the cost and cross your fingers it'll last several years, or buy a more expensive one and bank on it dying within the free replacement part of the warranty or the heavy discount part of the warranty, or hope it lasts a very long time. Still, much cheaper than most other maintenance over that time period I suppose. I've always wanted an AGM battery but they're insanely heavy from what I know, and of course 2-3x the price of a regular lead acid car battery. Wonder if they really are more resistant to sulfation than flooded cells or that's just marketing hype.

Last edited by IHaveAHorse; 02-23-2020 at 12:45 PM.
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Old 02-23-2020, 06:22 PM   #31525
Commander Keen
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If you're talking about Optima, production has been moved out of the US and there are reports of quality issues.

It seems to be just another case of a "value engineered" product coasting on a reputation it doesn't deserve anymore.
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