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Old 02-22-2019, 01:11 AM   #51
PDXREALTOR
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Lightweight flywheel is awesome.

I Added some decel fuel cut, 700 I think, and then I reduced requested torque 20% in the 0-6% accel position from 0-2000 rpms for theeeee perrrfect clutch engagememt setting.

I also had to add 1.76* of timing in the cruise range to smooth things out.
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Old 02-22-2019, 01:19 AM   #52
brecks
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Their kit is made to work with their fmic and piping. I didn't use a ton of it because I'm flipped manifold. I also didnt like they're 3.5-3" intake reducer so i made my own intake pipe. They were nice enough to let me take out the air intake. Perrin is tops in a lot of ways.

The kit has a downpipe that adjusts in length so it fits at least two different chassis, maybe more. I can never keep chassis letters straight. Lol.

Rev limit will be 7600, but, I'll aim to shift at 7500,... Maybe less in 4th gear.

I'm not sure what you were asking would hold up- the clutch or the motor. The clutch, yes. The motor.... Easy. Its spec whp is 750.
I'd probably do the same, seeing that I don't have a Perrin FMIC.

Lol the GDs are 04-07, maybe I'll give them a call and see if I can get the up/downpipes. If not, I may try my luck with that up pipe and see where the turbo sits. I figure it's the same up pipe that came with the kit you have, since its just an IWG T3 rotated pipe.

I was referring to the clutch setup. I always thought the XTSS was only good for about 550wtq
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Old 02-22-2019, 01:22 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by PDXREALTOR View Post
Lightweight flywheel is awesome.

I Added some decel fuel cut, 700 I think, and then I reduced requested torque 20% in the 0-6% accel position from 0-2000 rpms for theeeee perrrfect clutch engagememt setting.

I also had to add 1.76* of timing in the cruise range to smooth things out.
That sounds like a great idea.. never thought about tuning out a tough clutch, I just try and drive better

What are you tuning with? Open source?
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Old 02-22-2019, 01:42 AM   #54
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I'd probably do the same, seeing that I don't have a Perrin FMIC.

Lol the GDs are 04-07, maybe I'll give them a call and see if I can get the up/downpipes. If not, I may try my luck with that up pipe and see where the turbo sits. I figure it's the same up pipe that came with the kit you have, since its just an IWG T3 rotated pipe.

I was referring to the clutch setup. I always thought the XTSS was only good for about 550wtq
I had the sdss prior, on my 7163 and FP green. I would get slippage randomly at 4th gear pull peak torque, but it was minor and only doing pulls. Never during streeting around. And, I street around pretty good.

I talked with them (ACT) and they swear there clutch specs are underrated. How much, I forget. If it slips though, I'll upgrade.

Ya man... give them a call. They're great people to chat with. I was on cloud nine when I found out they had this kit.

Despite the odd CHRA angles (and the fact it's so minor in the big picture) I really like the way it looks. It's propped up nice and high for display. It may sound petty, but, it's the little things sometimes.

I will note that I've seen the garret t3 uppipe and it never has the support off the flange. The link you put up is the first time I've seen that uppipe designated as a garret. But ya.... phone call.
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Old 02-22-2019, 01:46 AM   #55
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That sounds like a great idea.. never thought about tuning out a tough clutch, I just try and drive better

What are you tuning with? Open source?
I'm tuning with Cobb, but I got the decel fuel cut off the Romraider forums referencing open source. It's just named a bit differently.

The tweak to RT at idle - 2k rpms came to me when I identified the issue as the pedal being too torquey in that area. We have a subi imprezza hatch (base model) also and driving both back to back is what really made the issue stick out. All of a sudden it hit me - there's no resolution in the CObb OTS throttle maps down low. Six cells later and the it takes off smooth as butter.

I was really having a hard time with takeoffs before the lightweight clutch but it was beginning to seriously piss me off after the lightweight fw. hahaha.
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Old 02-22-2019, 01:59 AM   #56
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I had the sdss prior, on my 7163 and FP green. I would get slippage randomly at 4th gear pull peak torque, but it was minor and only doing pulls. Never during streeting around. And, I street around pretty good.

I talked with them (ACT) and they swear there clutch specs are underrated. How much, I forget. If it slips though, I'll upgrade.

Ya man... give them a call. They're great people to chat with. I was on cloud nine when I found out they had this kit.

Despite the odd CHRA angles (and the fact it's so minor in the big picture) I really like the way it looks. It's propped up nice and high for display. It may sound petty, but, it's the little things sometimes.

I will note that I've seen the garret t3 uppipe and it never has the support off the flange. The link you put up is the first time I've seen that uppipe designated as a garret. But ya.... phone call.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PDXREALTOR View Post
I'm tuning with Cobb, but I got the decel fuel cut off the Romraider forums referencing open source. It's just named a bit differently.

The tweak to RT at idle - 2k rpms came to me when I identified the issue as the pedal being too torquey in that area. We have a subi imprezza hatch (base model) also and driving both back to back is what really made the issue stick out. All of a sudden it hit me - there's no resolution in the CObb OTS throttle maps down low. Six cells later and the it takes off smooth as butter.

I was really having a hard time with takeoffs before the lightweight clutch but it was beginning to seriously piss me off after the lightweight fw. hahaha.
I always had a hunch they were overrated, I just didn't know by how much. I've got about 10k on my XTSS at 450ish wtq. Never had an issue with it thus far, and I don't think I will with my power goals. I'm more curious to see how long is lasts. Aside from some up hill starts, its a pretty dailyable clutch and holds great power.

I agree, its weird because the title says its for an EFR but in the description it says specifically for rotated Garetts... I'll get on the phone with them and see how much it'll run me-- or if they're even just sell me the exhaust components.

Having a big ole turbo visible in a Subaru engine bay gives a nice recognizable feature to all those non-subaru inline guys who don't realize how clustered EJ platforms are

I'm sure the pedal pressure between a base impreza and an XTSS is ridiculous, I can see why you'd do that lol.

When I first saw this thread I was hoping you were sticking with your 7163 so that I could see before and after VDs of stock vs built heads. I've been contemplating upgrading the cams when I finally get around to putting the 7163 in, I just don't know that its worth it considering the 7163 is out of breath around 6750 anyway. Regardless, still looking forward to seeing some overlays of the 7163 and 7670.
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Old 02-25-2019, 05:31 AM   #57
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I always had a hunch they were overrated, I just didn't know by how much. I've got about 10k on my XTSS at 450ish wtq. Never had an issue with it thus far, and I don't think I will with my power goals. I'm more curious to see how long is lasts. Aside from some up hill starts, its a pretty dailyable clutch and holds great power.

I agree, its weird because the title says its for an EFR but in the description it says specifically for rotated Garetts... I'll get on the phone with them and see how much it'll run me-- or if they're even just sell me the exhaust components.

Having a big ole turbo visible in a Subaru engine bay gives a nice recognizable feature to all those non-subaru inline guys who don't realize how clustered EJ platforms are

I'm sure the pedal pressure between a base impreza and an XTSS is ridiculous, I can see why you'd do that lol.

When I first saw this thread I was hoping you were sticking with your 7163 so that I could see before and after VDs of stock vs built heads. I've been contemplating upgrading the cams when I finally get around to putting the 7163 in, I just don't know that its worth it considering the 7163 is out of breath around 6750 anyway. Regardless, still looking forward to seeing some overlays of the 7163 and 7670.
I was referring to the requested torque that is applied when the gas pedal is pushed. The Cobb OTS throttle maps are just a bit too touchy for my liking/style. I've always had a problem with consistent clutch operation on the STI... I don't know why I didn't catch it sooner. In any event, for me, it's all about the gas pedal and DBW tuning.

I had that motor on my cable hoist, ready to drop in with the stock 7163 and that very last minute --- I just couldn't do it.

Really getting her dialed in now... so.. hoping to turn the power up in 30 days max.
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Old 02-25-2019, 05:44 AM   #58
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Well tonight I did the 500 mile oil change and a second (third if you count engine stand) set of leak down tests. I also did compression tests for the first time.

The engine threw me some weird numbers on the engine stand and that's why I was asking about it in the built motor section. So far the trend seems to be good, but, there's still a couple oddities.

These are actual notes taken when I did the tests so excuse the lack of organization. I've talked to the builder about them each time except this latest set. I don't know what his deal is.... but... he didn't reply to text on a Sunday evening.

The numbers that have me scratching my head on this latest test is the fact #3 went up, and #1 is almost too good to be true. But, it is. The gauge doesn't lie and the numbers were so low I did everything possible to get a higher number. There isn't one. I'm very interested to see what that number is next test, or, even better I'd love to see them all come down to that zone.

Here are my notes with test results. I've now upped the rev limiter from 5500 to 6000 and continue to increase it's diet of boost. I just hope these leak down numbers level off.

Before install/first start/on engine stand/no valve covers/- pistons set at TDC to the point where pressure would not rotate the assembly. Multiple tests done on each cylinder to ensure consistency.
Cylinder #
1 15% ( leaking out of intake)
2 4% (WTF?)
3 22% (leaking out of intake)
4 37% (leaking out exhaust & Intake- tapped buckets lightly and retested @33% vales fully closed, all 4 valve buckets loose.. as they should be TDC.

After break in- approx 200 miles
warm motor, each test done 2x - around the block, then around again
#1 8%@ 100 psi, 7%@ 75 psi
#2 8% @ 100 psi, 8% @ 75 psi
#3 7Č @ 100 psi, 7%@ 75 psi
#4- 14% @ 100 psi, 14% @ 75 psi -Leaks at rings

550 Miles
Compression Test
-hot/warm motor
-each test performed 2x
-10 cranks, WOT, fresh battery charge
#1 137, 140 - av. 136
#2 132, 132
#3 140, 140
#4 130, 130
Leak Down Test
- done after compression test
- motor warm enough to heat up air hose at plug end, each test done 2x around the block then start over again.
#1 2%@ 100 psi, 1%@ 75 psi (tested 2x )
#2 7%@ 100 psi, 7%@ 75 psi (tested 2x )
#3 10% @ 100 psi, 9% 75 psi (tested 2x )
#4 13%@ 100 psi, 12%@ 75 psi (tested 2x - 2nd was 15% @100 and 75psi)
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Old 02-25-2019, 09:04 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by PDXREALTOR View Post
I was referring to the requested torque that is applied when the gas pedal is pushed. The Cobb OTS throttle maps are just a bit too touchy for my liking/style. I've always had a problem with consistent clutch operation on the STI... I don't know why I didn't catch it sooner. In any event, for me, it's all about the gas pedal and DBW tuning.

I had that motor on my cable hoist, ready to drop in with the stock 7163 and that very last minute --- I just couldn't do it.

Really getting her dialed in now... so.. hoping to turn the power up in 30 days max.
I knew you were talking RT, I was just speaking to the holding capacity. I never had that much of an issue engaging clutches on these cars. My XTSS doesnít like the winter, sometimes on engagement itíll spin the tires because itís so sudden.

Canít wait to see some numbers on this. In my experience your latest compression/leakdown numbers seem pretty good for a built block, especially with cams
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Old 02-25-2019, 02:18 PM   #60
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I thought I was a great clutch operator ... lol. Something about the STI I could just never perfect. Although, I was only stock for about 3 days before putting a Cobb OTS map on it.

I hope the numbers even out, especially the leak down ones
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Old 02-25-2019, 03:14 PM   #61
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I thought I was a great clutch operator ... lol. Something about the STI I could just never perfect. Although, I was only stock for about 3 days before putting a Cobb OTS map on it.

I hope the numbers even out, especially the leak down ones
I liked the stock clutch. At 90k miles with 5k miles on 380wtq it held up just fine, only replaced it because I had the engine out. Maybe I liked it because it was so worn in lol. I'm sure your 17 feels a lot newer.

It's interesting that it's the back two cylinders that have the most leak down. I bet you it's just the new valves. Were they pressure tested before going on?
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Old 02-25-2019, 03:15 PM   #62
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I thought I was a great clutch operator ... lol. Something about the STI I could just never perfect. Although, I was only stock for about 3 days before putting a Cobb OTS map on it.

I hope the numbers even out, especially the leak down ones
Might look into one of these for your next clutch if you want OEM feel but zero fear of slippage. Competition Clutch Stage 3 Multi Plate Twin Organic Clutch Kit w/Flywheel (Part Number: 4M-15030-3)

I got one to test and I thought something was wrong when I installed it because the peddle felt stock. Switched from the ACT 6-puck. The organic disc's are good to 750wtq so never going to have an issue holding.
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Old 02-25-2019, 03:30 PM   #63
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Might look into one of these for your next clutch if you want OEM feel but zero fear of slippage. Competition Clutch Stage 3 Multi Plate Twin Organic Clutch Kit w/Flywheel (Part Number: 4M-15030-3)

I got one to test and I thought something was wrong when I installed it because the peddle felt stock. Switched from the ACT 6-puck. The organic disc's are good to 750wtq so never going to have an issue holding.
I've been eyeing this clutch too if I ever went closed deck and big hp. The Stage 1 is 750wtq, the Stage 3 is 900wtq
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Old 02-25-2019, 11:40 PM   #64
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Might look into one of these for your next clutch if you want OEM feel but zero fear of slippage. Competition Clutch Stage 3 Multi Plate Twin Organic Clutch Kit w/Flywheel (Part Number: 4M-15030-3)

I got one to test and I thought something was wrong when I installed it because the peddle felt stock. Switched from the ACT 6-puck. The organic disc's are good to 750wtq so never going to have an issue holding.
Hey that'll give me a good reason to shoot for more torque!

So I'm assuming you kept your 'test' clutch? Did you buy it to test or what? Do explain please!

I'm tired of leg cramps after every drive. A side from that I really like what the xdss and lightweight flywheel have done to the car compared to the sdss w/OEM flywheel.
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Old 02-25-2019, 11:47 PM   #65
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I liked the stock clutch. At 90k miles with 5k miles on 380wtq it held up just fine, only replaced it because I had the engine out. Maybe I liked it because it was so worn in lol. I'm sure your 17 feels a lot newer.

It's interesting that it's the back two cylinders that have the most leak down. I bet you it's just the new valves. Were they pressure tested before going on?
The thing I didn't like about the 17s clutch, and one of the first things I looked into adjusting, was the pedal/clutch engagement point. It felt to me like a moving target.

It didn't get much better on the sdss ACT setup. But, on this xdss the pedal engages the clutch as soon as it lifts off the floor, which is how I like my clutches.

Forget about that damn hill assist. Good Lord! I was very happy I could turn that off.

I'm not sure on the heads. I have to assume they were pressure tested during/after the machine work but, a side from that I don't know. I feel awkward drilling the builder on how he does things.

I can feel air from the oil filler neck now, so, it's the rings that need to settle in as far as I can tell.
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Old 02-26-2019, 08:52 AM   #66
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Hey that'll give me a good reason to shoot for more torque!

So I'm assuming you kept your 'test' clutch? Did you buy it to test or what? Do explain please!

I'm tired of leg cramps after every drive. A side from that I really like what the xdss and lightweight flywheel have done to the car compared to the sdss w/OEM flywheel.
Basically I got an extreemly good price in exchange for my input after beating the piss out of it . I have been lucky enough to get a handfull of parts that way. Most had no issues and some I would fix and provide a workable solution for the manufacturer.
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Old 02-26-2019, 01:29 PM   #67
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The thing I didn't like about the 17s clutch, and one of the first things I looked into adjusting, was the pedal/clutch engagement point. It felt to me like a moving target.

It didn't get much better on the sdss ACT setup. But, on this xdss the pedal engages the clutch as soon as it lifts off the floor, which is how I like my clutches.

Forget about that damn hill assist. Good Lord! I was very happy I could turn that off.

I'm not sure on the heads. I have to assume they were pressure tested during/after the machine work but, a side from that I don't know. I feel awkward drilling the builder on how he does things.

I can feel air from the oil filler neck now, so, it's the rings that need to settle in as far as I can tell.
If its from the filler neck then yes rings. With only~550 mi on it, I'd say those numbers are okay. I'd expect forged pistons to be a bit leakier
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Old 02-28-2019, 04:37 AM   #68
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First VD numbers - rev limited at 6k still. Need to up it to 6500. Pretty pleased with the numbers since it's pump fuel and spring pressure.

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Old 02-28-2019, 04:47 AM   #69
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Another pic of under the hood, and some horns that we re-arranged. Few things left under the hood, shaved manifold is on the way (I got lazy/busy and paid someone) and a couple of things to paint.



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Old 02-28-2019, 09:56 AM   #70
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First VD numbers - rev limited at 6k still. Need to up it to 6500. Pretty pleased with the numbers since it's pump fuel and spring pressure.

Thatís crazy, seems like itís spooling pretty close to your 7163, even with BC280s. Granted itís lower boost, but still.. wow.
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Old 02-28-2019, 10:34 AM   #71
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3818lbs? DANG that thing needs a diet!!! LOL. And some RPM, I would be struggling to keep the rev's down. That the break-in recommendation?
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Old 02-28-2019, 10:41 AM   #72
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That’s crazy, seems like it’s spooling pretty close to your 7163, even with BC280s. Granted it’s lower boost, but still.. wow.
And usually just spring pressure makes boost come on a little sluggish, once he adds the boost its should actually come on a hair faster.

4th gear makes turbos spool up a little faster tho, how’s it coming on in 3rd?
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Old 02-28-2019, 06:07 PM   #73
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And usually just spring pressure makes boost come on a little sluggish, once he adds the boost its should actually come on a hair faster.

4th gear makes turbos spool up a little faster tho, howís it coming on in 3rd?
I haven't done any dedicated 3rd gear pulls. In general it comes on damn quick.

I'll do a 3rd pull if possible next time I'm out.
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Old 02-28-2019, 06:09 PM   #74
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3818lbs? DANG that thing needs a diet!!! LOL. And some RPM, I would be struggling to keep the rev's down. That the break-in recommendation?
LOL. That's full tank, and a 140 pound passenger. But ya, it's heavy. I've weighed it three times on the truck scales in Troutdale.
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Old 02-28-2019, 06:48 PM   #75
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LOL. That's full tank, and a 140 pound passenger. But ya, it's heavy. I've weighed it three times on the truck scales in Troutdale.
Mine is down at 2838lbs full tank of fuel, my fatt-ars is another 200lbs but I am currently removing weight from my backside, lol. I use a set of corner scales I got years back for a track car I was running, they have paid themselves off several times over at this point.
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