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Old 01-17-2016, 02:38 PM   #1
gosefroba
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Default 2015 WRX J-pipe install nightmare

I read that the studs on the turbo housing were a pain, but holy hell. I sprayed it with Pblaster and let it sit for 5 mins. Ended up stripping the bolt using a 16 point. Then stripped it again with a 6 point. Then went to autozone to get a female torque socket to just take the stud out. Thought I got a turn and then the stud snapped. Sitting there for 10 mins in disbelief I had the idea of welding a larger nut to stud. Nut snapped off 3 times I tried. Buddy came by and had the idea of welding a washer and a nut to get a larger surface area on the weld then just the nut. Took over 5 hours to get this damn nut off. Anyone else have a nightmare story of trying to get those studs/nut out?

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Old 01-17-2016, 02:50 PM   #2
sc00ter
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Jesus Christ!

I hit mine with PB blaster the day before and then again right when I got the car on the lift. Mine all came right off and I was able to reuse the studs. The only real issue I had was making the dumb mistake of using a 12 point socket instead of a 6 point, which almost stripped out two of the nuts.

Crazy to see how much of a pain these can be for some people.
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Old 01-17-2016, 03:00 PM   #3
gosefroba
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The other 3 came out without a problem, but of course it was the one that is almost impossible to get to. Got it out and put some anti seize on the studs and the nuts, so this will never happen again lol
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Old 01-17-2016, 03:02 PM   #4
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Oxy torch + PB Blaster. Heat cyle it 10 times before going at it. Never failed me. Also, throw out anything with more than 6 points or pretend they don't exist. They are useless for high torque applications.
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Old 01-17-2016, 03:14 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomferd View Post
Oxy torch + PB Blaster. Heat cyle it 10 times before going at it. Never failed me. Also, throw out anything with more than 6 points or pretend they don't exist. They are useless for high torque applications.
Its sad cause the torque spec is like 30 pounds. I completely regret not using a 6 point at first
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Old 01-17-2016, 05:52 PM   #6
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Not to mention five minutes with PB Blaster is like not using it at all.
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Old 01-17-2016, 06:21 PM   #7
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I had a similar experience..broke the stud and slowly drilled it out stepping up the size of the bit..chased the threads and 6 hours later I also had a new j pipe installed haha
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Old 01-17-2016, 06:27 PM   #8
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What size it the nut? Looks like I need to order a 6 point socket.
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Old 01-17-2016, 08:04 PM   #9
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Wow, happy this didn't happen to me. I had 29k miles on stock jpipe before I removed it. Used aerokroil and waited 30 mins. Besides a couple of small cuts I didn't have any issues. Luckily you had a welder handy.
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Old 01-17-2016, 08:35 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james-30 View Post
What size it the nut? Looks like I need to order a 6 point socket.
Its a 14mm bolt
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Old 01-17-2016, 09:02 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeeeeeYa View Post
Not to mention five minutes with PB Blaster is like not using it at all.
Yep exactly
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Old 01-17-2016, 09:06 PM   #12
gosefroba
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Well it sat for about 3 and half hours before I broke the stud
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Old 01-18-2016, 12:17 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polancd View Post
Wow, happy this didn't happen to me. I had 29k miles on stock jpipe before I removed it. Used aerokroil and waited 30 mins. Besides a couple of small cuts I didn't have any issues. Luckily you had a welder handy.
When I tackle mine in a few weeks or so, Kroil is the way I'm going. That stuff is amazing!...SC
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Old 01-19-2016, 07:37 PM   #14
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I think more often than not those penetrating sprays make it worse. Especially when you spray the surface of the nut/bolt itself and don't wipe off the excess and then use a 16 point socket.
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Old 01-19-2016, 08:04 PM   #15
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^Nail on the head
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Old 01-19-2016, 09:24 PM   #16
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The key is to heat it up just a little before...

And never try to remove unless you have a 100% perfect connection with a wrench or socket.. The slightest tiny bit of an angle of the socket or wrench and it will slip..
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Old 01-20-2016, 01:51 AM   #17
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You also have to wipe off the excess penetrant before you start wrenching...SC
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Old 01-20-2016, 10:23 AM   #18
playslikepage71
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Also, using a long socket wrench with as short of a socket/extension combo as possible will keep things square and reduce the chance of ripping the corners off the nut.
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Old 01-20-2016, 11:03 AM   #19
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Here's how to get them off guaranteed, every time, without fail, breaking studs or stripping nuts:

Use BRAKE FLUID on the studs.

Why? This car is influenced heavily by Toyota design and material selection. Toyota has been using lock nuts like these found on the turbo outlet studs for some time on their V6 models. Toyota specifically instructs their techs to use brake fluid on the studs prior to removing the nuts for a clean and easy removal. Occasionally the nut will mar the threads of the stud, but through the magic unbolting powers of brake fluid the nut will continue to spin. Use nothing else on the threads as nothing else will work. Brake Fluid is the best.

To that end, have a bolt that has started coming out a couple threads then get stuck? Put some brake fluid on it, turn it back in a wait one minute The bolt will magically turn out like nothing was wrong.

Tony
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Old 01-20-2016, 01:14 PM   #20
m.wood0213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turn in Concepts View Post
Here's how to get them off guaranteed, every time, without fail, breaking studs or stripping nuts:

Use BRAKE FLUID on the studs.

Why? This car is influenced heavily by Toyota design and material selection. Toyota has been using lock nuts like these found on the turbo outlet studs for some time on their V6 models. Toyota specifically instructs their techs to use brake fluid on the studs prior to removing the nuts for a clean and easy removal. Occasionally the nut will mar the threads of the stud, but through the magic unbolting powers of brake fluid the nut will continue to spin. Use nothing else on the threads as nothing else will work. Brake Fluid is the best.

To that end, have a bolt that has started coming out a couple threads then get stuck? Put some brake fluid on it, turn it back in a wait one minute The bolt will magically turn out like nothing was wrong.

Tony
Sweet info, thanks!
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Old 01-21-2016, 12:15 AM   #21
FAPower
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I used PB blaster and a mapp gas torch, heat cycled three times followed by an hours long soak with seafoam deep creep. All came out without much hassle.

Also I used a 6 pt socket. With the amount of torque required on a couple of them they might have stripped with a 12 pt.
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Old 01-21-2016, 01:03 AM   #22
TheSilentCircus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turn in Concepts View Post
Here's how to get them off guaranteed, every time, without fail, breaking studs or stripping nuts:

Use BRAKE FLUID on the studs.

Why? This car is influenced heavily by Toyota design and material selection. Toyota has been using lock nuts like these found on the turbo outlet studs for some time on their V6 models. Toyota specifically instructs their techs to use brake fluid on the studs prior to removing the nuts for a clean and easy removal. Occasionally the nut will mar the threads of the stud, but through the magic unbolting powers of brake fluid the nut will continue to spin. Use nothing else on the threads as nothing else will work. Brake Fluid is the best.

To that end, have a bolt that has started coming out a couple threads then get stuck? Put some brake fluid on it, turn it back in a wait one minute The bolt will magically turn out like nothing was wrong.

Tony
Holy crap haha, I wish I knew this before I battled my turbo studs. Good to know for future endeavors, thank you Tony.
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Old 01-21-2016, 02:38 AM   #23
Topgeartech
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turn in Concepts View Post
Here's how to get them off guaranteed, every time, without fail, breaking studs or stripping nuts:

Use BRAKE FLUID on the studs.

Why? This car is influenced heavily by Toyota design and material selection. Toyota has been using lock nuts like these found on the turbo outlet studs for some time on their V6 models. Toyota specifically instructs their techs to use brake fluid on the studs prior to removing the nuts for a clean and easy removal. Occasionally the nut will mar the threads of the stud, but through the magic unbolting powers of brake fluid the nut will continue to spin. Use nothing else on the threads as nothing else will work. Brake Fluid is the best.

To that end, have a bolt that has started coming out a couple threads then get stuck? Put some brake fluid on it, turn it back in a wait one minute The bolt will magically turn out like nothing was wrong.

Tony
100% agreed. We do this at work often.
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Old 01-25-2016, 03:58 AM   #24
Xensity
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Hey guys,
First post and man am I glad I saw this. I actually just got done with installing full TBE along with a lot of other goodies on my 2015 WRX and I ran into the same issue. I hit all the studs with PB and let it sit and 3 came off just fine but that fourth one was such a huge pain. We tried welding but that only gave us enough leverage to snap the stud. After that failed we had to drill the stud out and re tap the threads. Was a HUGE hassle, and when I went to Subaru to get replacement studs they only had some from a previous year that surprisingly ended up working just fine. I actually have the broken stud hanging in my garage as a reminder (its totally mangled, had bolts welded to it and everything) Ill have to post a pic of it.
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Old 01-25-2016, 08:44 AM   #25
1redgtr
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Horrible, hope we don't run into this when we put our tbe on. It happened to me on the GTR and we had to drop the motor down to get it out. I was pissed
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