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Old 11-25-2016, 09:18 PM   #26
kevinlubitski
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2015, protuned at 4,000 miles (intake/turbo back/tgv deletes/ETS IC/AP - 300/320 on MD) and just hit 30K miles with zero issues so far. Never a CEL or hicup and the car is floored more than driven nice.
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Old 11-25-2016, 11:45 PM   #27
killadawg
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1 1/2 yrs. Stage 2 for 15k already.. car at mid 20k

KB after cooler, CP
GS Jpipe, ebcs, CAI, ( light pulley.. took off)
TiC TGV deletes
Nameless cbe
AIG AOS, EGR deletes
DW300c in tank fuel pump.
Perrin (oil cooler, motor mounts, Trans mounts, .. too many to list)
Fluidampr pulley
Tons of suspension, trans, wheels, and bbk and too many mods to list..

4 diff. Tunes from diff. Shops, pro and e-tuned.. now self tuned via road tunning.. don't care about dyno hp #'s.. just care about more power on a broader power band and no knock.. I change me oil every 3k miles, amsoil and/or pensoil ultra plat.

Never had any issues other than an angry tuning company and a faulty part from a shady maker/vendor :-)..

Next to do is flex fuel and built block when I blow this one.. I feel much safer with my stage 2 than I did stock.. tune was terrible knock was horrific. I have full control and can pretty much tell how hard I can push my car, which is far from the confidence I had with my stock set up more than a year ago. This is a fun platform indeed, which I intend to keep for quite some time.
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Old 11-26-2016, 08:36 AM   #28
jasonc32amg
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I've put over 20k miles on my '16 with a TBE and AEM meth kit. No issues at all. I get it serviced at the dealer.
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Old 11-26-2016, 09:03 AM   #29
JRowland
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[quote=SeeeeeYa;44816229]



Better get your MT WRXs now, boys... because by the time you grow up they'll be gone.

https://www.cars.com/articles/automa...1420684105016/

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Old 11-26-2016, 10:32 AM   #30
purered919
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2016 WRX, TBE, Intake,TGVD, AOS, EGRD, Etune. . Ive ran the car 6k miles with intake, TBE and OTS map, and 2k mi on tgvd, egrd and tune. Future mods ats brembo , FMIC.

I've ran into an issue when I was on intake and tbe and OTS map. I had gunked valves at only 10k miles. Symptoms of gunked valves : Super rough Idle at start up, Car knocking almost at any rpm/load even at WOT. This was very frustrating and stressful. After EGRD,TGVD, and tune, I haven't had one problem and hope it stays that way
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Old 11-26-2016, 11:56 AM   #31
bindsti
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purered919 View Post
2016 WRX, TBE, Intake,TGVD, AOS, EGRD, Etune. . Ive ran the car 6k miles with intake, TBE and OTS map, and 2k mi on tgvd, egrd and tune. Future mods ats brembo , FMIC.

I've ran into an issue when I was on intake and tbe and OTS map. I had gunked valves at only 10k miles. Symptoms of gunked valves : Super rough Idle at start up, Car knocking almost at any rpm/load even at WOT. This was very frustrating and stressful. After EGRD,TGVD, and tune, I haven't had one problem and hope it stays that way
Did you clean your valves? My car has 15k on it and I want to go stage 2 in the spring but wondering if I should walnut blast the valves before I get it tuned.
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Old 11-27-2016, 02:37 PM   #32
Cisco Kidd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bishop View Post
can you guys add what oil you've been using?
For me there is one oil only now Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200 5w30, German liquid goodness made for DIT and the only oil that leaves my exhaust tips soot free along the bottom oval portion , Been Stage 1 to 25K and now Stage 2 w catted MAP dp tuned via TP for last 1500. Next will be adding MAP intake and trying their stage 2 map or I may just opt to buy MAPs tmic and add my PRL chargepipe and retune to that via TP
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Old 11-27-2016, 02:49 PM   #33
WRXTACY
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been on a protune stage 2 with TGV/ERG Deletes for a long time now, like 15k miles. no issues and I'm on crappy 91 octane.
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Old 11-27-2016, 03:23 PM   #34
Bishop
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Ass, grass or cash
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cisco Kidd View Post
For me there is one oil only now Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200 5w30, German liquid goodness made for DIT and the only oil that leaves my exhaust tips soot free along the bottom oval portion , Been Stage 1 to 25K and now Stage 2 w catted MAP dp tuned via TP for last 1500. Next will be adding MAP intake and trying their stage 2 map or I may just opt to buy MAPs tmic and add my PRL chargepipe and retune to that via TP
Have you gotten the oil tested? if so, how were the results?
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Old 11-28-2016, 09:42 AM   #35
purered919
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Yes, I forgot to mention that I took off the intake manifold and cleaned the valves with seafoam and nylon brushes from harbor freight. I managed to clean about 80% of the gunk.
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Old 11-28-2016, 10:15 AM   #36
Bearcat8311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killadawg View Post
1 1/2 yrs. Stage 2 for 15k already.. car at mid 20k


Fluidampr pulley
How do you like the Fluidampr Pulley? Noticeable difference? I've had my eye on one for a little while now.
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Old 11-28-2016, 11:34 AM   #37
dwelker
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I was stage 2 for 23k miles and recently went for more power. Car was roughly 305/310 for 23k miles and currently 30k at 354/356 with Water/Meth. Havent had a single issue. Car runs great all the time and handles the abuse very well. Just replaced my clutch due to the extra torque from water/meth but other than that no issues.
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Old 11-28-2016, 12:46 PM   #38
equinox_ps
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Like many of the others here, I too have been running stage 2 (intake, tbe, tgvd, ebcs) for about 15k now without any related issues and will soon be installing a flexfuel kit. I drive my car hard somewhat regularly, though I don't beat on it day in and day out. I don't auto x or drag it either so it rarely sees prolonged "abuse." It's my daily driver and the longevity of the powertrain is as important to me as the power and drive-ability benefits that came with stage 2 upgrades.

My 2 cents: Drive your car smart, avoid high load/low rpm situations like the plague. Warm the oil temp to its operable range before driving hard (no boost, high rpms or load until up to temp). Change the oil approximately every 2,500 to 3000 miles (increasing frequency with harder driving). Monitor critical parameters each time you drive (knock, DAM, fuel trims, oil/coolant temps etc). Use quality gas, fluids and parts. Install parts correctly or employ someone that can. Be sure to work with a reputable tuner.

To reiterate; just be smart with your car and chances are it will last you a long time.
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Old 11-28-2016, 08:32 PM   #39
A.Kim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubbieNoob View Post
About 1500 miles on my MAPerformance stage 2+
Absolutely love it, but unfortunately I fell victim to the stalling issue.
MAP says this doesn't happen to everyone, but in defense to them, they are currently looking to resolve this problem.

In terms of their OTS stage 2+, it has been phenomenal. No issues other than that, and to reiterate, not everyone gets it. They sell the OTS tune for only 75 bucks, and they gave me a discount for only 60. Makes plenty of power and pulls like a mother ******. Stalling issue only happens after an extremely hard pull and shifting to neutral. If you're looking for an OTS that puts more power down than the cobb OTS, and feel like running a catless J pipe please consider the MAP stage 2+ OTS.

Not to mention they send you new revisions for free.
I have MAP full stage 2. Been running it since June, got the car in march. Car is at 14xxx miles and has been running fine other than....a random reading of 2.8 knock that I saw once but all other reading were where they were supposed to be. Also had that stalling issue but I cant remember the last time I had it happened(I've done multiple pulls where I would think it would happen again but doesn't). I was thinking " Did that happen because of me or....?" anymore info/link on the Stalling issue?
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Old 11-29-2016, 10:38 AM   #40
playslikepage71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by equinox_ps View Post
just be smart
You certainly are asking for a lot
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Old 11-29-2016, 12:08 PM   #41
clark4131
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Now that I'm running Stage 2 more or less, I find the car is a bit more particular with the type of gas it likes the best. It used to be either Chevron or Shell 91 Octane worked equally as good for Stage 1, but now there is a marked difference at Stage 2 with a preference for the Shell Nitro+. I don't have any knock with Chevron, but the car just seems to be noticeably smoother. We don't get 93 where I'm at, so I'm kinda stuck. I haven't tried CostCo yet, but I had mixed results with it on my Stage 1 tune, so I'm not too keen on giving it a try unless I'm in a pinch...SC
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Old 11-29-2016, 12:31 PM   #42
jeg208
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Costco 92 gives me a -1.41 just about every run, both on Cobb Stage 1 91, and MAP stage 2 91. I do run my defrost all the time though, so maybe it is just the compressor kicking on sometimes?

Last edited by jeg208; 11-29-2016 at 12:52 PM.
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Old 11-29-2016, 12:45 PM   #43
gn4rwhals
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I've noticed if I have the heat or A/C running I get -1.41 FBK, when I don't run the air or heat I get no knock.

This is on the COBB OTS Stage 1 91 file using 93 octane.
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Old 11-29-2016, 12:50 PM   #44
bindsti
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gn4rwhals View Post
I've noticed if I have the heat or A/C running I get -1.41 FBK, when I don't run the air or heat I get no knock.

This is on the COBB OTS Stage 1 91 file using 93 octane.
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Old 11-29-2016, 12:57 PM   #45
gn4rwhals
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A.Kim View Post
I have MAP full stage 2. Been running it since June, got the car in march. Car is at 14xxx miles and has been running fine other than....a random reading of 2.8 knock that I saw once but all other reading were where they were supposed to be. Also had that stalling issue but I cant remember the last time I had it happened(I've done multiple pulls where I would think it would happen again but doesn't). I was thinking " Did that happen because of me or....?" anymore info/link on the Stalling issue?
Email MAP, I think they have a fix for the stalling issue on Stage 2.
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Old 11-29-2016, 01:52 PM   #46
clark4131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gn4rwhals View Post
I've noticed if I have the heat or A/C running I get -1.41 FBK, when I don't run the air or heat I get no knock.

This is on the COBB OTS Stage 1 91 file using 93 octane.

The A/C compressor cycles whenever the fan is blowing, regardless of the setting. You will likely get knock readings every time, but it's false knock...SC
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Old 11-29-2016, 02:44 PM   #47
equinox_ps
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Originally Posted by playslikepage71 View Post
You certainly are asking for a lot
Unfortunately so, in this day and age.
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Old 11-29-2016, 04:34 PM   #48
Hqen2000
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Originally Posted by clark4131 View Post
The A/C compressor cycles whenever the fan is blowing, regardless of the setting. You will likely get knock readings every time, but it's false knock...SC
No you can turn off the "AC" and just have the fan on Or heat (as long as it's not defroster). But if it's on full auto you are right it might cycle the compressor at any time to control humidity, even when the heater is on.
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Old 11-29-2016, 04:53 PM   #49
clark4131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hqen2000 View Post
No you can turn off the "AC" and just have the fan on Or heat (as long as it's not defroster). But if it's on full auto you are right it might cycle the compressor at any time to control humidity, even when the heater is on.

The compressor will still cycle regardless. It's a "Subaru" thing...SC
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Old 11-29-2016, 05:43 PM   #50
gn4rwhals
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Yeah even with just heat you can actually hear it, hence it being false knock read by the ECU.

False knock sucks, its silly that the FA20 does it stock.
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