Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Saturday September 21, 2019
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC General > Car Care & Detailing

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.







* As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. 
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads. 
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-22-2017, 09:05 PM   #26
Superchargedk20
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 466477
Join Date: Apr 2017
Default

Awesome stuff !
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Superchargedk20 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Old 05-11-2017, 03:58 PM   #27
kcwerks
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 392611
Join Date: Jun 2014
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Jersey Shore, NJ
Vehicle:
2017 WRX STi
CBS

Default

Great thread for enthusiast detailers.
kcwerks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2017, 10:21 PM   #28
wrx43v3r
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 331119
Join Date: Sep 2012
Default

wrx43v3r is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2017, 03:50 PM   #29
kaos200
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 2692
Join Date: Oct 2000
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: SoCal & TX
Default

Ordered my parts, can't wait to build it and reduce these spots!
edit: Quite happy with this, cheap and effective setup!

Last edited by kaos200; 07-31-2017 at 03:46 PM.
kaos200 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2017, 08:02 PM   #30
Robrunkle
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 477091
Join Date: Nov 2017
Default

My water is moderately hard around 250 ppm. I have built a similar setup using 10 inch clear cannisters four in series. First two are sediment and carbon filters. Last two are DI cartridges. I end up with around 50 ppm water with this. I can get as low as 20 ppm if I turn down the flow. I am just getting this thing tried for the first few times and I seem to be burning through my DI media quick. One car wash and my media is already orange in both cannisters. Anyone else have this happen?
Robrunkle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2017, 12:59 PM   #31
whiplash willy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 424843
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Portland, Or
Vehicle:
2016 WRX Limited 6MT
ISM

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robrunkle View Post
My water is moderately hard around 250 ppm. I have built a similar setup using 10 inch clear cannisters four in series. First two are sediment and carbon filters. Last two are DI cartridges. I end up with around 50 ppm water with this. I can get as low as 20 ppm if I turn down the flow. I am just getting this thing tried for the first few times and I seem to be burning through my DI media quick. One car wash and my media is already orange in both cannisters. Anyone else have this happen?
The worse your incoming water is, the quicker you will burn through the DI media. My incoming water is 30ppm, and my media last about 1 year, using it to wash my car every other week. I also use a electric power washer, which limits the GPM to 1.5, which also helps.

My 10" Pentek Big Blue Canisters use the larger 4.5" filters, which are 2" wider then the standard 2.5" wide filters, so they also hold alot more DI media. I can get 5lbs of media combined in both canisters.

I think your biggest problem is the quality of your water coming into the system. 250ppm is pretty bad! Also, if you are using the standard 2.5" wide canisters, you are using half of the media that you should be using. My setup with the two 10" x 4.5" really is the smallest size you should be using to get true spotless (0 ppm) water.

Also, your flow is too fast if all you are getting is 50-20ppm water. Really there is no point in using a system like this if you aren't getting 0ppm water. You shouldn't be using any more then 2.5gpm flow through this system, and if you are, and still don't get 0ppm water, you need a system with more DI Resin in it.

If you really want to try and get this working for you, I would recommend the following:

1. Keep the Sediment pre-filters, as any reduction in the TDS of the incoming water, will help and extend the life of the DI Resin. You may want to look into if the carbon filter is helping or hurting your system, as I am not sure what it is doing to the water that flows through it.

2. Reduce the water flow of your system. The best way to do this, and be effective is to use a pressure wash with a low gpm flow rate. You can get cheap electric pressure washers for around $100, that have 1.3-1.5 GPM. this will help alot. I use the AR Blue Clean AR118 which works well, is cheap and compact.

3. Increase the size of your DI filters, or add more. Getting 0ppm DI water is all about the contact time of the water with the DI Resin. More resin will allow for more flow while maintaining 0ppm. Quality of the incoming water is also a factor. given the quality of your incoming water, you would likely need a bigger system then mine to attain 0ppm water.

4. Since you are going to need alot of resin, and will be going through alot, which is expensive, there is a way you can recharge the resin. You may want to look into that. There is alot of info online on how to do this. Here are a couple of links to get you started:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...readid=1144161

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-09/nftt/index.php

Also, if you are thinking about recharging your resin, you may want to look into using Dual Bed resin, instead of Mixed Bed. Mixed Bed resin has the Cation and Anion resin mixed together. Dual Bed has it separated, Cation in one filter, and Anion in the other. When recharging, you need to separate the 2, which adds an additional step. There are also other benefits to dual bed systems, that might help you. Look at the link below:

https://www.total-water.com/blog/qua...bed-deionizer/

Ultimately, you may need to do some research on how to best condition your water that is coming into your system. The Aquarian Community has alot of knowledgeable people on DI water. Check out and post in the forums in the recharge links I posted above, they might be able to help better.

Last edited by whiplash willy; 11-03-2017 at 01:11 PM.
whiplash willy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2017, 06:03 PM   #32
ColdSoda
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 200545
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Vehicle:
2002 WRX
2008 SPEC B

Default

Good info Willy.

Darn photobucket... just realized it ruined my photos in here... here's a reupload for those who may be curious on the setup I was discussing here.



My input water is still 650-675 TDS most days. It's thanks to the Colorado River water we all get here in Phoenix. I'm actually using my RO/DI system in the house to make gallons of water to use with ONR still more frequently than the whole pressure washer setup you see here. Works out better price/gallon for light washes but once in a while you still need to use a regular wash method to really clean the wheels and give the car a through clean.
ColdSoda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2017, 07:21 PM   #33
Robrunkle
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 477091
Join Date: Nov 2017
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by whiplash willy View Post
The worse your incoming water is, the quicker you will burn through the DI media. My incoming water is 30ppm, and my media last about 1 year, using it to wash my car every other week. I also use a electric power washer, which limits the GPM to 1.5, which also helps.

My 10" Pentek Big Blue Canisters use the larger 4.5" filters, which are 2" wider then the standard 2.5" wide filters, so they also hold alot more DI media. I can get 5lbs of media combined in both canisters.

I think your biggest problem is the quality of your water coming into the system. 250ppm is pretty bad! Also, if you are using the standard 2.5" wide canisters, you are using half of the media that you should be using. My setup with the two 10" x 4.5" really is the smallest size you should be using to get true spotless (0 ppm) water.

Also, your flow is too fast if all you are getting is 50-20ppm water. Really there is no point in using a system like this if you aren't getting 0ppm water. You shouldn't be using any more then 2.5gpm flow through this system, and if you are, and still don't get 0ppm water, you need a system with more DI Resin in it.

If you really want to try and get this working for you, I would recommend the following:

1. Keep the Sediment pre-filters, as any reduction in the TDS of the incoming water, will help and extend the life of the DI Resin. You may want to look into if the carbon filter is helping or hurting your system, as I am not sure what it is doing to the water that flows through it.

2. Reduce the water flow of your system. The best way to do this, and be effective is to use a pressure wash with a low gpm flow rate. You can get cheap electric pressure washers for around $100, that have 1.3-1.5 GPM. this will help alot. I use the AR Blue Clean AR118 which works well, is cheap and compact.

3. Increase the size of your DI filters, or add more. Getting 0ppm DI water is all about the contact time of the water with the DI Resin. More resin will allow for more flow while maintaining 0ppm. Quality of the incoming water is also a factor. given the quality of your incoming water, you would likely need a bigger system then mine to attain 0ppm water.

4. Since you are going to need alot of resin, and will be going through alot, which is expensive, there is a way you can recharge the resin. You may want to look into that. There is alot of info online on how to do this. Here are a couple of links to get you started:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...readid=1144161

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-09/nftt/index.php

Also, if you are thinking about recharging your resin, you may want to look into using Dual Bed resin, instead of Mixed Bed. Mixed Bed resin has the Cation and Anion resin mixed together. Dual Bed has it separated, Cation in one filter, and Anion in the other. When recharging, you need to separate the 2, which adds an additional step. There are also other benefits to dual bed systems, that might help you. Look at the link below:

https://www.total-water.com/blog/qua...bed-deionizer/

Ultimately, you may need to do some research on how to best condition your water that is coming into your system. The Aquarian Community has alot of knowledgeable people on DI water. Check out and post in the forums in the recharge links I posted above, they might be able to help better.
Wow. Thanks for awesome response!!

1) I am pretty sure that each can is 1 lb; 2 lb total. So I am less than half of your setup. I can possibly goto a third di which would give me 3 lbs.
2) I am suspicious that the carbon filter is giving some problems. The water spots I got on this test wash was some of the nastiest spoting I have ever seen. This is the first time with carbon inline. Actually etched my new ceramic coating. I did the coating myself though and after work today, I polished out a small section that got jacked up and was able to restore completely. Whew!
3) I am going to get a whole house softener. I am tired of the hard water on my other fixtures dishwasher etc.. I sent an email to the CR spotless folks regarding if water softner would help or hurt and they said it would make the system work a little hard than it needs to. Not sure if that is believable. But I can plumb the garage spigot so that I can easy switch between hard and soft.

Thanks for all the info. I will report back results.
Robrunkle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2017, 08:18 AM   #34
Honest Bob
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 94698
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Easton, PA
Vehicle:
2005 30R Wagon
CGM

Default

I'm no expert but if the well water in your area is hard maybe you would be better off using collected rain water?
Honest Bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2017, 09:12 AM   #35
Robrunkle
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 477091
Join Date: Nov 2017
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Honest Bob View Post
I'm no expert but if the well water in your area is hard maybe you would be better off using collected rain water?
Rain water and DIstilled water from the grocery story would both be 0ppm. But setting up a container and getting any water pressure would be difficult. Especially if the collected water needs filtering for sediment like rain water would. Adding a pump is an option.
Robrunkle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2017, 01:11 PM   #36
whiplash willy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 424843
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Portland, Or
Vehicle:
2016 WRX Limited 6MT
ISM

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robrunkle View Post
Wow. Thanks for awesome response!!

1) I am pretty sure that each can is 1 lb; 2 lb total. So I am less than half of your setup. I can possibly goto a third di which would give me 3 lbs.

2) I am suspicious that the carbon filter is giving some problems. The water spots I got on this test wash was some of the nastiest spoting I have ever seen. This is the first time with carbon inline. Actually etched my new ceramic coating. I did the coating myself though and after work today, I polished out a small section that got jacked up and was able to restore completely. Whew!

3) I am going to get a whole house softener. I am tired of the hard water on my other fixtures dishwasher etc.. I sent an email to the CR spotless folks regarding if water softner would help or hurt and they said it would make the system work a little hard than it needs to. Not sure if that is believable. But I can plumb the garage spigot so that I can easy switch between hard and soft.

Thanks for all the info. I will report back results.
No problem!

1. With what you have said, I don't know that 3lbs will be enough to give you spotless water. You may want to look into replacing your current DI filters with either 2 Pentek 10" Big Blue Housings, or 1 20" Big Blue. I think that would be your minimum requirement, however with your water that still might not be enough.

2. What is that carbon filter you are using supposed to do? I only mentioned something because I know "Water Softening" cartridges just convert hard water, to something else, they don't remove any TDS from the water, and whatever it is converting the water to, may or may not be beneficial. Can you give more details on your setup, and maybe a pic?

3. A whole house softner may not help with your DI system, and may hurt it like CR Spotless said. A softner exchanges Magnesium and Calcium with Sodium, which is less soluble and does not precipitate out of solution to form scale. So your DI Resin is going to be dealing with Sodium, instead of Mag, and Calcium.

I don't know much about Reverse Osmosis, but I do know alot of aquarium people have a Reverse Osmosis system ahead of their DI System, to better condition the water for the DI system. You may want to do some research on that, and put a hold on the Whole house Softer system.

Also, I don't know if you have looked much into Optimum No Rinse Washing, but you may want to start using that is your maintenance wash, as you can get a good wash with only using a couple of gallons of water, you could even just use distilled. Here are a couple links to check out: (The Rag Company is a good source of ONR, The Big Red Sponge, and MF Towels, as well as videos on the process)

https://www.autogeek.net/how-to-use-rinseless-wash.html

https://www.theragcompany.com/optimu...ine-onr-32-oz/



Also, what are you using for your Ceramic Coating? If you do get water spots on a ceramic coating, there are some water spot removers that you should try first that will chemically remove the water spots, without damaging your coating. If you polish the spots out of your coating, you will be removing the coating from that area, and will have to re-apply the coating to that entire panel.

Shortly after I applied my Optimum Gloss Coat, My car got attacked by a water sprinkler at work, and left to dry in the 80*F+ Temp all day. After trying Clay, Vinegar, and APC, I wasn't able to remove them. As a last ditch effort, I got Optimum's MDR Remover, and Carpro's Water Spot Remover. The MDR didn't do anything, but Carpro's Water Spot remover completely and easily removed the spots without effecting the coating. I think it is good to have both the Carpro and Optimum water spot removers on hand. I think each product will have varying effectiveness on different type of water spots. All of the spots in the pic below were removed with Carpro's water spot remover, and all I had to do was spray it onto a clean car, briefly agitate it, and rinse off.



https://www.carpro-us.com/paint-deco...r-500ml-16-oz/
whiplash willy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2017, 02:19 PM   #37
dsn112
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 332561
Join Date: Sep 2012
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Southern NJ/Philly
Vehicle:
2015 GTI Autobahn
White

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdSoda View Post
Good info Willy.

Darn photobucket... just realized it ruined my photos in here... here's a reupload for those who may be curious on the setup I was discussing here.



My input water is still 650-675 TDS most days. It's thanks to the Colorado River water we all get here in Phoenix. I'm actually using my RO/DI system in the house to make gallons of water to use with ONR still more frequently than the whole pressure washer setup you see here. Works out better price/gallon for light washes but once in a while you still need to use a regular wash method to really clean the wheels and give the car a through clean.
Eley hose, Mossmatic gun/wand, someone is obsessed
dsn112 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2017, 02:35 PM   #38
ColdSoda
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 200545
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Vehicle:
2002 WRX
2008 SPEC B

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dsn112 View Post
Eley hose, Mossmatic gun/wand, someone is obsessed
good eye... plus the MTM foam cannon.. a dead giveaway, ha

p.s. I will confirm that what Mr Willy said about the water softener NOT helping the DI system in any way. Second, he is also correct with the idea that doing a RO filter setup before the DI is smart - the sediment, carbon filter, and ro membrane can filter far more gallons per dollar, saving the expensive resin from filtering out stuff the other filters can take care of. The only issue with RO is the speed and need for waste line for the RO membrane.
ColdSoda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2017, 03:12 PM   #39
whiplash willy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 424843
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Portland, Or
Vehicle:
2016 WRX Limited 6MT
ISM

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdSoda View Post
good eye... plus the MTM foam cannon.. a dead giveaway, ha

p.s. I will confirm that what Mr Willy said about the water softener NOT helping the DI system in any way. Second, he is also correct with the idea that doing a RO filter setup before the DI is smart - the sediment, carbon filter, and ro membrane can filter far more gallons per dollar, saving the expensive resin from filtering out stuff the other filters can take care of. The only issue with RO is the speed and need for waste line for the RO membrane.
I somehow missed ColdSoda's post above:
https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho...6&postcount=32

His setup is from CR Spotless, but it is basically 2 20" Pentek Big Blue housings with Mixed Bed DI Resin. Robrunkle may need something of that level to get the job done.

ColdSoda, How is that setup handling your 650ppm water, and how often are you going through resin? Also, what is your source of resin, and are you "recharging it"? Do you have anything in front of your CR Spotless system, or is the ground water directly coming into it? That is a pretty nice setup you have there! I like the clean install!

So for using RO Water and a Spotless DI system, is it just not feasible to build a RO system that would provide enough flow for what we are using it for?

Also, how is your setup working for Spotless Rinsing? Have you been brave enough to just leave the water to dry on the car after rinsing? Personally, I still completely dry my car? I built my system to reduce the chance of spotting, as I always have had issues in the past, and not as a means to skip the step of drying, although that would be nice. I just haven't bee brave enough to try.
whiplash willy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2017, 06:01 PM   #40
ColdSoda
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 200545
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Vehicle:
2002 WRX
2008 SPEC B

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by whiplash willy View Post
I somehow missed ColdSoda's post above:
https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho...6&postcount=32

His setup is from CR Spotless, but it is basically 2 20" Pentek Big Blue housings with Mixed Bed DI Resin. Robrunkle may need something of that level to get the job done.

ColdSoda, How is that setup handling your 650ppm water, and how often are you going through resin? Also, what is your source of resin, and are you "recharging it"? Do you have anything in front of your CR Spotless system, or is the ground water directly coming into it? That is a pretty nice setup you have there! I like the clean install!

So for using RO Water and a Spotless DI system, is it just not feasible to build a RO system that would provide enough flow for what we are using it for?

Also, how is your setup working for Spotless Rinsing? Have you been brave enough to just leave the water to dry on the car after rinsing? Personally, I still completely dry my car? I built my system to reduce the chance of spotting, as I always have had issues in the past, and not as a means to skip the step of drying, although that would be nice. I just haven't bee brave enough to try.
Thank you for the kind words!

I went ahead and paid for the CR Spotless "power user" program and swap it out for $50 when I need to. I looked into the recharging process... I just don't have the time to do that kind of stuff anymore like I used to (a young kid and busy work schedule take up more time lately). I've replaced it 3 times so far, but again.. the light washes tend to go through the ONR cleaning method instead of full pressure washing with the DI water.

I have let my car just sit and dry once and it worked as advertised; but if there is ANY breeze outside, it is so dusty out here you'll notice it on the car as it starts to dry. Now what I tend to do is use an eGo cordless blower to blow the water off the panels and wheels, and let it dry from there. No spots... its a miracle lol.

I'm not sure if there is a Reverse Osmosis setup that can flow enough GPM to keep up with a pressure washer in real time. If something exists, it is likely too expensive or too bulky for me.

For a point of reference, I have a 100GPD reverse osmosis membrane on my RO/DI setup. It takes me approx 13.5 minutes to make 1 gallon of 0 TDS water. Getting into units that flow faster to keep up with a pressure washer would likely be very expensive. Here's an RO/DI setup very similar to the one I have: http://spectrapure.com/RO-RODI/RODI-...D-RO-DI-System

BUT that said, some pressure washers do have the ability to pull from a holding tank. So if you have the space for it, get an RO setup that can fill up a huge storage tank of water, then suck that up with a pressure washer. I dont have the space for a setup like that, but that would probably be a lot more economical and still get the water from 650TDS to 4-8TDS without the need for DI resin.
ColdSoda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2017, 07:45 AM   #41
Robrunkle
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 477091
Join Date: Nov 2017
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by whiplash willy View Post
No problem!

1. With what you have said, I don't know that 3lbs will be enough to give you spotless water. You may want to look into replacing your current DI filters with either 2 Pentek 10" Big Blue Housings, or 1 20" Big Blue. I think that would be your minimum requirement, however with your water that still might not be enough.

2. What is that carbon filter you are using supposed to do? I only mentioned something because I know "Water Softening" cartridges just convert hard water, to something else, they don't remove any TDS from the water, and whatever it is converting the water to, may or may not be beneficial. Can you give more details on your setup, and maybe a pic?

3. A whole house softner may not help with your DI system, and may hurt it like CR Spotless said. A softner exchanges Magnesium and Calcium with Sodium, which is less soluble and does not precipitate out of solution to form scale. So your DI Resin is going to be dealing with Sodium, instead of Mag, and Calcium.

I don't know much about Reverse Osmosis, but I do know alot of aquarium people have a Reverse Osmosis system ahead of their DI System, to better condition the water for the DI system. You may want to do some research on that, and put a hold on the Whole house Softer system.

Also, I don't know if you have looked much into Optimum No Rinse Washing, but you may want to start using that is your maintenance wash, as you can get a good wash with only using a couple of gallons of water, you could even just use distilled. Here are a couple links to check out: (The Rag Company is a good source of ONR, The Big Red Sponge, and MF Towels, as well as videos on the process)

https://www.autogeek.net/how-to-use-rinseless-wash.html

https://www.theragcompany.com/optimu...ine-onr-32-oz/

How Optimum No Rinse and The Big Red Sponge Work - YouTube

ONR/The Rag Company Rinseless Wash of the GT3 - YouTube

Also, what are you using for your Ceramic Coating? If you do get water spots on a ceramic coating, there are some water spot removers that you should try first that will chemically remove the water spots, without damaging your coating. If you polish the spots out of your coating, you will be removing the coating from that area, and will have to re-apply the coating to that entire panel.

Shortly after I applied my Optimum Gloss Coat, My car got attacked by a water sprinkler at work, and left to dry in the 80*F+ Temp all day. After trying Clay, Vinegar, and APC, I wasn't able to remove them. As a last ditch effort, I got Optimum's MDR Remover, and Carpro's Water Spot Remover. The MDR didn't do anything, but Carpro's Water Spot remover completely and easily removed the spots without effecting the coating. I think it is good to have both the Carpro and Optimum water spot removers on hand. I think each product will have varying effectiveness on different type of water spots. All of the spots in the pic below were removed with Carpro's water spot remover, and all I had to do was spray it onto a clean car, briefly agitate it, and rinse off.



https://www.carpro-us.com/paint-deco...r-500ml-16-oz/
I am going to try the softner for the house anyway because we have always had problems with hard water in the fixtures, dishwasher, etc. We actually just ordered a new dishwasher, so I want the new one exposed to soft water only. I can easily plumb the garage spigot to be either soft or hard and valve between them. I will do that and see if the soft water slong helps. Soft water is supposed to easy easier to clean off the spots any way.

RO is also something that I have considered. I was only concernec about flow with RO. I have a cheap pressure washer. I will have to check the flow of that and see how it aligns w an RO system.

My ceramic is Carpro cquartz. I have considered their spot remover and with your suggestion, I will definitely get some now. Thanks.
Robrunkle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2017, 07:53 AM   #42
Robrunkle
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 477091
Join Date: Nov 2017
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by whiplash willy View Post


Also, how is your setup working for Spotless Rinsing? Have you been brave enough to just leave the water to dry on the car after rinsing? Personally, I still completely dry my car? I built my system to reduce the chance of spotting, as I always have had issues in the past, and not as a means to skip the step of drying, although that would be nice. I just haven't bee brave enough to try.
I let rain water dry on my cars all the time and that is zero ppm. If i am able to get zero ppm from the spigot i will never rub a dry rag on my cars again.
Robrunkle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2017, 06:34 PM   #43
Wydget
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 465749
Join Date: Apr 2017
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: San Antonio, TX
Vehicle:
2016 WRX Limited
WRB

Default

I am going to be building one of these systems in the near future. I'll post up my results...
Wydget is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2017, 02:55 PM   #44
phxbrz
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 477434
Join Date: Nov 2017
Default Repost pics?

This is a great thread, thanks whiplash willy and ColdSoda!

Any chance the pics that have been dumped by photobucket could be reposted?
phxbrz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2017, 08:21 AM   #45
Legacy
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 10188
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Ottawa
Vehicle:
2007 Forester XT

Default

Would be interested in a simular setup. I have a pressure washer, is there a wash to bypass the softner feature so I'm not wasting product when I'm cleaning out the lawnmower etc?
Legacy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2017, 02:48 PM   #46
cramerox
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 447443
Join Date: May 2016
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: CALIPORNIA
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
SILVER

Default

Hey Guys! Pretty cool post. Hits close to home to me because I'm in the water filtration business. I deliver RO drinking water to customers in my area.

After reading through the thread, the biggest issue I can see, and you guys already know this, is burning through expensive resin. Also remember not all DI resin are created equal. I've bought some DI resin from a china mfg and that was JUNK! You get what you pay for! Resin does have a shelf life, so regenerating it or sending it back to a company for a core exchange will not give you the same results as fresh virgin DI resin. Over time its ability to reduce TDS will be less efficient.

An optimal system for you guys should involve an RO system with possible a 50gal product tank. A RO system can bring 300+ppm TDS water to around 10-20ppm and the DI resin will take care of the 10-20ppm to zero.

Let me know if you guys want more information on how to plumb an RO system. You can use small units that are for under the sink.
cramerox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2017, 03:15 PM   #47
Legacy
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 10188
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Ottawa
Vehicle:
2007 Forester XT

Default

^^ On that note how does one know the resin is used up or nearing "end of life" ?
Legacy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2017, 03:30 PM   #48
cramerox
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 447443
Join Date: May 2016
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: CALIPORNIA
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
SILVER

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Legacy View Post
^^ On that note how does one know the resin is used up or nearing "end of life" ?
Its ability to reduce TDS efficiently. Near end of life resin will need a longer contact time to reduce TDS. The goal of the resin is to get you to zero TDS. Basically if you arent getting the quality you once were - the resin is going bad.
cramerox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2017, 03:41 PM   #49
cramerox
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 447443
Join Date: May 2016
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: CALIPORNIA
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
SILVER

Default

Its all about contact time with resin. You can have perfectly good resin and your testing meters may show a high number - because you are flowing water too fast through the resin. So keep that in mind as well. Slower the better for maximum contact time.
cramerox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2017, 03:41 PM   #50
whiplash willy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 424843
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Portland, Or
Vehicle:
2016 WRX Limited 6MT
ISM

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cramerox View Post
Hey Guys! Pretty cool post. Hits close to home to me because I'm in the water filtration business. I deliver RO drinking water to customers in my area.

After reading through the thread, the biggest issue I can see, and you guys already know this, is burning through expensive resin. Also remember not all DI resin are created equal. I've bought some DI resin from a china mfg and that was JUNK! You get what you pay for! Resin does have a shelf life, so regenerating it or sending it back to a company for a core exchange will not give you the same results as fresh virgin DI resin. Over time its ability to reduce TDS will be less efficient.

An optimal system for you guys should involve an RO system with possible a 50gal product tank. A RO system can bring 300+ppm TDS water to around 10-20ppm and the DI resin will take care of the 10-20ppm to zero.

Let me know if you guys want more information on how to plumb an RO system. You can use small units that are for under the sink.
I would really like to hear more info on plumbing a RO system for this. Also any details/example of a small RO system and 50gal tank would be awesome!

I will update my photobucket pics in the near future for you guys.
whiplash willy is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:26 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2019 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2019, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.