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Old 11-21-2017, 04:59 PM   #51
cramerox
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The holding tank size would depend on how fast you would use the water up and how fast your RO filter can make you more water. The system is pointless if its too small and you dont have enough water.

I would filter RO water and run it through DI filter then into the holding tank. From the holding tank I would attached the sprayer pump.

A system can be as simple or complicated you want it to be. Shoot you can even make drinking water while you are at it. Dual purpose.

Ive linked some things to give you an idea.

http://a.co/i7SVEYk
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Old 11-28-2017, 05:16 PM   #52
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Default DI Systems

This information great! I had no clue this was available to DIYers.
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Old 01-19-2018, 04:34 PM   #53
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so how do you figure out how much flow you can get out of the 10" or 20" filters? I have a pressure washer that flow just about 2 GPM and want to make sure the filter system I make can handle it.
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Old 04-30-2018, 12:40 PM   #54
whiplash willy
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I had my first real issue with the DI system this weekend. My makeshift stand's cheap wood had rotted to the point, where it collapsed and broke the right hand side pvc output piece.



I ended up rebuilding the part, however, when I went to start using it again, I noticed my output TDS was high (50 TDS), and what was really weird is that it is higher then my input TDS, which reads around 30 TDS.

I am not sure why my output would be higher then my input, but my best guess is that either:

1. MY TDS Probe is damaged
2. My DI Media is exhausted (but why would that cause the water to be dirtier on the output)
3. I didn't let the PVC glue dry long enough before use (I let it dry about 18 hours)

As I started troubleshooting this, and thinking about it more, I started wondering how well my probe setup is working to accurately detect the water quality. I may have been using my system with depleted resin because the probe isn't reaching the water stream. The probe doesn't even stick out of the John Guest fitting, let aloe into the reducer bushing, and then into the T, where the water flows.

I think I am going to try a different setup for the probes, like what ColdSoda posted about earlier in this thread, which seems like a much better and simpiler design!

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho...1&postcount=15

Here are some of his pics, in case anyone can't see them because of photobucket:





I still don't think that the probe will stick directly into the stream, but it will be much closer then the setup I have now. And maybe not having any PVC Glue will help.

I may also get a handheld TDS Meter so I can compare the readings between my inline probe, and the handheld meter.

Finally, I think I will also order new resin. I am sure it is time for a refill, and I don't think I have been packing my resin properly. So hopefully, after all of this, things will be good again! I will post my findings, along with pics of my new setup. I ended up rebuilding my stand with cedar and reinforcing it in certain areas I was having issues with, and now that is solid. I am glad I re-read through this thread and found ColdSoda's post about the fittings, it was a great post!

On a side note...my electric pressure washer also decided to take a dump over the weekend, so I ended up having to wash the car with un-pressurized city water! Hopefully that will be a quick fix as well!
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Old 05-01-2018, 06:56 AM   #55
Notch 8
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Coldsoda needs to post some pictures of his new setup.
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Old 05-01-2018, 11:10 AM   #56
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Thanks for the kind words Willy (and for the picture help...lol)

Here's a picture of the whole setup with the two 20" resin tanks:




I was running through resin like crazy with my input TDS of 650-710. The two 20" tanks only hold 0.33 cubic ft of resin combined and I was replacing it every 2 months. With CR Spotless changing their power user exchange program, I search for an alternative.

What I found was a monster 14" diameter mixed bed resin tank that holds 3.6 cubic ft of resin (and weighs 303 lbs). If I were to continue using about 40 gallons a month, instead of replacing every 2 months I could predict replacing after 20 months! Now with that said I have increased my usage of water because of this massive tank, so I'll probably replace the resin once a year or so (we'll see).

I don't have a picture exactly as the one above, but this will give you an idea:
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Old 05-01-2018, 12:37 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdSoda View Post
Thanks for the kind words Willy (and for the picture help...lol)

Here's a picture of the whole setup with the two 20" resin tanks:




I was running through resin like crazy with my input TDS of 650-710. The two 20" tanks only hold 0.33 cubic ft of resin combined and I was replacing it every 2 months. With CR Spotless changing their power user exchange program, I search for an alternative.

What I found was a monster 14" diameter mixed bed resin tank that holds 3.6 cubic ft of resin (and weighs 303 lbs). If I were to continue using about 40 gallons a month, instead of replacing every 2 months I could predict replacing after 20 months! Now with that said I have increased my usage of water because of this massive tank, so I'll probably replace the resin once a year or so (we'll see).

I don't have a picture exactly as the one above, but this will give you an idea:
ColdSoda, No problem! Your posts have been very helpful!

I would love to hear more details on that monster 14" tank! What kind of resin are you using, and how much does it cost to fill up that thing? It has gotta be crazy!

Also, what are your thoughts on the TDS Meter Probe positioning and accuracy. The TDS Meter probes typically come with a 1/4" Quick Connect Tee, that will actually put the probe tongs into the water stream. With our setup though, it seems like the 1/4" Quick Connect Probe isn't long enough to stick out further then the fitting to be placed in the water stream, which makes me wounder how accurate it is.
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Old 05-10-2018, 02:40 PM   #58
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Awesome thread! Looking to build similar but have a few questions.

I called up the county water and asked about sediment and they said there is none. Lake water

Also looking at my Chlorine it is 1.44 at the highest.

Is it overkill to create a system with more filters such as a Sediment-> Carbon->DI

My TDS reading at my house is only 45-50

Any thoughts would be appreciated!
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Old 05-11-2018, 12:48 PM   #59
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I finally had some time to work on my filter setup, and address my issues. I ended up re-doing the output end, using some of the parts that ColdSoda used.

I was able to reduce some pieces, but still used the same fittings to connect to the filter cap, and for my hose connection. I used a John Guest 1/4 to 1/2 NPT like ColdSoda, for the probe, but the Tee I used had a 1/2 NPT threaded connection, so I could screw the John Guest fitting right into the Tee. I like the John Guest Fitting with the 1/2 end, because it creates a bigger opening for the water to come into, and hopefully will give a more accurate reading. I also positioned the probes sideways, which will hopefully give me a better reading.

Here are links to the parts, and some pics:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/John-Gue...3309/300753463

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DURA-3-4...-101/100344993





I did some testing by just running water through my system without the DI filter cartridges in there, to see what readings I was getting, to try and figure otu why I was getting 30TDS water in, and 50TDS out before. Without the Filter Cartridges, I was getting about 25TDS in, and 29TDS out, probably because the filter housings were dirty. I cleaned the housings out, and refilled my resin, and packed it well.

This time around I used CR Spotless's Refill Resin, because it was actually cheaper at $43, then what I was using before. Plus they use the MAG-MB resin, which is specifically for spotless rinsing. The bag was also for 7lbs of resin, instead of 5lbs. I was able to completely refill both Filter Cartridges and had a little left over!



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When I was refilling the Filter Cartridges, I noticed the old resin had been completely exhausted (It is color changing). I think that was most likely the cause of the higher Output TDS water I was having. With the new DI media in place, I am getting 0 TDS output water again!

Also, I was able to fix my Pressure Washer as well, all it needed was a $15 new GFCI plug, and it was good to go!
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Old 05-11-2018, 03:42 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDonCT87 View Post
Awesome thread! Looking to build similar but have a few questions.

I called up the county water and asked about sediment and they said there is none. Lake water

Also looking at my Chlorine it is 1.44 at the highest.

Is it overkill to create a system with more filters such as a Sediment-> Carbon->DI

My TDS reading at my house is only 45-50

Any thoughts would be appreciated!
Anything you can do to reduce the TDS of the water going into the DI Filters will help extend the life of your DI Resin, which is somewhat expensive. The question is how much will a Sediment and Carbon filterer reduce your water's TDS. If you have the space, and don't mind spending a little more money up front, I don't see any reason not to add pre-filters.

CS Spotless's site has a cool page that will help you estimate how many gallons of 0TDS water you will use:

https://crspotless.com/how-many-washes/

If you are going to use two 10" x 4.5" filter housings like me, you will want to select DIC-10.

On a side note, I wouldn't think lake water would be sediment free. I wounder why/how that would be the case.
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Old 05-11-2018, 05:49 PM   #61
TheDonCT87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiplash willy View Post
Anything you can do to reduce the TDS of the water going into the DI Filters will help extend the life of your DI Resin, which is somewhat expensive. The question is how much will a Sediment and Carbon filterer reduce your water's TDS. If you have the space, and don't mind spending a little more money up front, I don't see any reason not to add pre-filters.

CS Spotless's site has a cool page that will help you estimate how many gallons of 0TDS water you will use:

https://crspotless.com/how-many-washes/

If you are going to use two 10" x 4.5" filter housings like me, you will want to select DIC-10.

On a side note, I wouldn't think lake water would be sediment free. I wounder why/how that would be the case.
I am getting diw 20 and 2 10x2.5 filters one for 1micron sediment and the other a carbon filter. I searched online and couldn't find anything about sediment in my area, but I agree with you, how can there not be any. The carbon from what Ive read should help eliminate other things to protect the DI resin. Also my county chlorine report is 1.44 which is low.
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Old 05-16-2018, 08:17 PM   #62
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A sediment filter is so cheap there's no reason to not run one.

Carbon will remove chlorine and or chloramine, which will make your DI resin last longer- which is the most expensive to replace.
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Old 05-22-2018, 02:43 PM   #63
TheDonCT87
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So I have my system set up
1micron Sediment>5micron Carbon> DI system

I ran 5 gal through the pre filters( first 2) got a ppm reading on 90 then went to 60ish. Ran to store, came back after an hour and wanted to check it again and ran another 5 gals through. The first gal was reading 360ppm then went down to 60ppm by the second-third gal. By the fifth it was around 57ppm.

I thought this was very strange, esp the first gallon of the second time running it. 10ppm higher isnt much but 300ppm higher will def have a negative effect on the system(longevity wise of DI resin)

Should I even bother keeping the prefilters? Do they just have to be flushed more?

Hose- 49ppm
pre filters- 60ppm
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Old 10-27-2018, 12:22 AM   #64
Frickard
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Default Still reading 8ppm TDS output

Good evening,

I've just finished rebuilding my DI filter system as the previous build was still putting out TDS. After completing the new setup, my meter showed 0ppm TDS output with an input of 370ppm. After about 30 minutes of total use (maybe 40 gallons), the meter was again showing 8ppm TDS output with an input of 170ppm. Here is my current setup:

(2) 20" big blue filter housings
(2) 20" x 4.5" refillable filter cartridges
10 lb of Resintech MBD-30 Nuclear Grade Mixed Bed DI Resin
HM Digital DM-1 In-Line Dual TDS Monitor

I'm wondering at this point if I need to get something like a big fiberglass tank that I can rent by the month due to high TDS water. I thought the 20" filters would be overkill. Renting a tank would be cheaper than having to refill 10lbs of resin every month at $8/lb.

I noticed while transferring the resin to the larger filter canisters that it had changed from blue and orange to all orange. I don't believe I purchased color changing resin, but would this be an indicator that the resin is spent?

I just washed my vehicle this evening and I'll see if I have water spots in the morning. Maybe my meter is reading incorrectly. Any input or suggestions are much appreciated!
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Old 11-02-2018, 09:29 PM   #65
cramerox
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Default DIY Spotless Water Filtration

You are burning through the resin! If the resin has changed color then itís done.

Resin is expensive and water is cheaper. Itís best to invest in an RO filter, store the water in a small tank then run it through DI resin.

Most of these sized filters have a recommended flow rate of 1.5GPM or less! If you are blasting water through much faster, there is not enough contact time with the resin to produce zero ppm TDS water.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Frickard View Post
Good evening,



I've just finished rebuilding my DI filter system as the previous build was still putting out TDS. After completing the new setup, my meter showed 0ppm TDS output with an input of 370ppm. After about 30 minutes of total use (maybe 40 gallons), the meter was again showing 8ppm TDS output with an input of 170ppm. Here is my current setup:



(2) 20" big blue filter housings

(2) 20" x 4.5" refillable filter cartridges

10 lb of Resintech MBD-30 Nuclear Grade Mixed Bed DI Resin

HM Digital DM-1 In-Line Dual TDS Monitor



I'm wondering at this point if I need to get something like a big fiberglass tank that I can rent by the month due to high TDS water. I thought the 20" filters would be overkill. Renting a tank would be cheaper than having to refill 10lbs of resin every month at $8/lb.



I noticed while transferring the resin to the larger filter canisters that it had changed from blue and orange to all orange. I don't believe I purchased color changing resin, but would this be an indicator that the resin is spent?



I just washed my vehicle this evening and I'll see if I have water spots in the morning. Maybe my meter is reading incorrectly. Any input or suggestions are much appreciated!
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Old 11-12-2018, 10:36 PM   #66
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Default cool setup dude

very cool setup
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Old 01-11-2019, 09:52 AM   #67
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Quick question,

In post #54 (and other posts) there is a picture that shows a bunch of parts, one of them is what I'll call a quick connect that allows the TDS prob to fit into the water stream. I purchased both that part and the same probe. But the prob will not fit far enough into the adapter (it will fit into the quick connect section but not past the hole inside the adapter.

Did you folks have to drill/enlarge that opening to get the probe to fit?

Thank you.
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Old 01-15-2019, 11:12 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by talkglock View Post
Quick question,

In post #54 (and other posts) there is a picture that shows a bunch of parts, one of them is what I'll call a quick connect that allows the TDS prob to fit into the water stream. I purchased both that part and the same probe. But the prob will not fit far enough into the adapter (it will fit into the quick connect section but not past the hole inside the adapter.

Did you folks have to drill/enlarge that opening to get the probe to fit?

Thank you.
I think Willy's post #59 is as good as a probe as we're going to get with this DIY setup. If you place the probe sideways at least you should get a decent enough reading for acceptable accuracy for us DIY guys. Sure its not ideal, but it is just an indicator, not a CPU factory pure water system...

Here's my setup as it sits right now. This does include another indicator that was supplied to me that is green when tds output is 0 and turns red when it goes over ~2.5TDS (resistivity is above 200k ohm). It has been consistent with my meter readings using the probes, fwiw.

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Old 01-29-2019, 03:18 PM   #69
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For best water quality make sure you have a neutral neutral ph (7.0 or above) so that way your water will be able to properly soften or release iron/manganese/etc., and then address your hardness issue or whatever water qualityissue there is. My family specializes in water treatment and there is nothing worse than water spots!!!
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Old 01-29-2019, 03:20 PM   #70
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And remember, you will have a low TDS if you either A- have no minerals in the water, or B- have a low ph (6.9 and below) and the water isn't releasing all minerals.
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Old 02-14-2019, 05:14 PM   #71
Drew888
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Would any of you consider rinsing using the Worx Hydroshot and a bucket of Distilled water?
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Old 02-26-2019, 09:08 AM   #72
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pretty slick setup... regardless of what it looks like.
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Old 02-28-2019, 06:29 PM   #73
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ColdSoda,
I have been researching building the same/similar system. I can buy a used softner system on CL, take the tank and empty and clean it out and refill with resin. Plumb in and out to my washer. Im not connecting the brine tank or using the elec/controller.
Just wondering how much resin it took to fill the tank so I can factor in that cost to my build?
Thanks
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Old 09-02-2019, 05:51 PM   #74
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Hello everyone, my name is James. I joined this site just so I could be part of this topic. I do know it is somewhat of an old topic but hopefully you guy's can help.
I am in the process of building my first system - 2-10" big blues.
You guy's have some trick systems I must say!
I am building a portable system on wheels so I can roll it around.
I would like to ask if it is recommended to put a sediment filter inline on the water in side of the system and if so a recommendation would be great. thanks, James.

Last edited by jimbobzilla; 09-03-2019 at 07:59 AM.
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Old 09-07-2019, 12:31 AM   #75
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random update... refining the system a bit. Still enjoying the 3.6 cubic ft resin tank.

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