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Old 11-28-2020, 08:45 AM   #201
pcampbell
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Default Vortech supercharger for ~500whp? Si Too big?



Minor issue I just realized the tensioner wont really take a large pulley because the tensioner uses a 1/2 drive square hole to crank down on the belt. If I go larger on the pulley it will cover the square hole unless I go just a tiny tiny bit larger but the clearance is just about as little as I want already.
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Last edited by pcampbell; 11-28-2020 at 08:57 AM.
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Old 11-28-2020, 09:28 AM   #202
stevieturbo
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Make a new pivot bracket with the square or tension adjuster further away.

It's just a simple flat bracket. Bit of time with a grinder would have a new one cut out.
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Old 11-28-2020, 03:05 PM   #203
pcampbell
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Good idea, maybe I can put my plasma cutter to use. I can trace the old bracket and just move the square hole.
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Old 11-28-2020, 03:09 PM   #204
stevieturbo
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Obviously if DIY'ing, it doesn't need to be a square hole. Just weld a nut or bolt or something onto the new bracket to allow you to tension it.

But an angle grinder is just as handy, lots of mess to clean up with a plasma. Oddly I just used mine the other day for the first time in about 5 years...
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Old 11-29-2020, 10:43 AM   #205
pcampbell
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: VT
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2005 2.5 SC OB

Default Vortech supercharger for ~500whp? Si Too big?

I was able to get pretty good tension just by putting my weight into the idler but not sure if its enough tension. Lots more tinkering to do.

Last edited by pcampbell; 11-29-2020 at 03:28 PM.
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Old 11-30-2020, 12:34 PM   #206
pcampbell
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I moved the bracket and put on the larger tensioner idler pulley to clear the radiator hose. Now the belt is still slipping with the tensioner maxed out. The belt tension is decent , but not huge. Although huge is not necessarily good.

Here's the bracket with the larger idler, positioned so it can swing completely up and out of the way to get the belt on really easily. R&R of belt is like a 60 second process so that is really nice.



I feel like I have some options here:

1) Try a shorter belt. 61.5 instead of 62.0. This will give me more tension with the tensioner maxed out. Cost $9. I'm not super convinced more tension is a great thing though...

2) Try a RPM (Aramid/Kevlar) belt - only comes in 61.5 or 63.0 - 63.0 is too loose. These are actually designed to run LESS tension and do not stretch. $60 or so.

3) Just go 10 rib. I'd really just need to replace 1 idler pulley and replace my passenger side fan because I'm already running 10 rib pulleys on the SC and on the crank. I think I could hold off on replacing the fan for a while since it is cold here now anyway. $60 for belt and pulley.

4) Gear down to a 3.12" supercharger pulley which would obviously draw out the boost to higher RPMs which is effectively less restriction. $109 for a new SC pulley.

I am sort of leaning towards #3 first then #4 if that doesn't work.
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Old Yesterday, 05:54 PM   #207
pcampbell
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10 rib parts coming. It was only $40 in a pulley and a belt, so I had to try it. If that doesn't work I can try an RPM (Aramid) Belt. Then if all else fails, I can gear down the SC. One day I will paint these brackets too.

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Old Yesterday, 06:21 PM   #208
stevieturbo
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A good strong spring tensioner would still go a long way to resolving any slip issues.. Although more ribs is almost always a positive.
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