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Old 05-31-2015, 04:08 PM   #1026
Dill-Ag13
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Thanks a lot man, appreciate it! Not concerned with difficulty, just the time it'll take.
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:00 AM   #1027
BlueFozzie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Javier668 View Post
Anyone want sell a low priced airpump for wrx 2006?
I need the pump for parts,if dont work isnt problem.

Regards!
Make offer. I have the whole kit, and the crossover pipe is already cut into tiny little pieces.
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Old 07-02-2015, 09:15 AM   #1028
Dill-Ag13
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Interesting, I'm going to tackle this today and will post pics if I feel like they'd add value.

I don't see the 1410 code in the list even though it's part of the SAI system. Just want to clarify that the list of codes that needs to be cleared below does NOT include 1410:
P0410
P0411
P0413
P0414
P0416
P0417
P0418
P2431
P2432
P2433
P2440
P2441
P2442
P2443
P2444


Edit: for a 2007 WRX
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Old 07-05-2015, 01:29 PM   #1029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dill-Ag13 View Post
I don't see the 1410 code in the list even though it's part of the SAI system. Just want to clarify that the list of codes that needs to be cleared below does NOT include 1410:
:for a 2007 WRX
True.
I did the AP Delete. I am running Stage 2 and deleted the codes in your list. I am not throwing 1410 and it is not "unchecked" by my AccessTuner.
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Old 07-05-2015, 08:27 PM   #1030
Dill-Ag13
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That's really interesting seeing as it's defined as "Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Open"...

Thanks
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Old 07-06-2015, 10:08 AM   #1031
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dill-Ag13 View Post
That's really interesting seeing as it's defined as "Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Open"...

Thanks
Interesting.
How can a valve that is not there anymore send a stuck open signal?
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Old 07-06-2015, 10:14 AM   #1032
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueFozzie View Post
Interesting.
How can a valve that is not there anymore send a stuck open signal?
Because the switch that sends the signal showing "closed" isn't there either.
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Old 07-06-2015, 10:19 AM   #1033
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Originally Posted by Psychoreo View Post
Because the switch that sends the signal showing "closed" isn't there either.
Exactly.
Now go read the quote.
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Old 07-06-2015, 11:05 AM   #1034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueFozzie View Post
Exactly.
Now go read the quote.
I did. The sensor doesn't send the "stuck open" signal. It's a ground switch that closes. If the ECU doesn't see that the little 1 becomes a 0 and back again when it expects it, you get the code.
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Old 07-07-2015, 08:47 PM   #1035
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Thanks for the clarification
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Old 07-17-2015, 05:53 AM   #1036
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Hey Guys!

Long time lurker, first time poster here. Love the forum! I've spent many an hour researching this specific problem and i've come to a bit of a dilemma on how to go about resolving this. My car is throwing P2444 P1410 P0410 codes so i've got a valve open and the pump stuck on. In a perfect world i would get the plates installed and delete the CEL's. However, my ECU is locked so it's outside the realms of possibilities. Therefore, im forced to replace the parts.

What i need to know is, if i replace the valve's (which i can get cheapish from Spectra Premium) will the pump still need replacing too or will it perform properly once the valves can close? Can i assume the pump is stuck on because a valve is open? I had a theory that perhaps the pump detected a pressure build up when the valves were closed in order to turn off. If i have to get the valves done with labour charges on top its not so bad but if im replacing the pump it will finish me off.

Another alternative i thought about doing was getting blanking plates fit between the metal pipes and cylinder head as a temporary fix until i have the finances to sort the whole thing. Of course i'll have to put up with a bright yellow dash light in the meantime, which will bug the hell outta me. I could always remove the CEL bulb, but that feels a bit like im fooling myself but at the same time saving 1-2k repair.

Not sure what to do, any advice appreciated. I don't want to tackle this work myself as its a bit beyond my ability.

Thanks,
Balor.
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Old 07-17-2015, 07:47 AM   #1037
BlueFozzie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uber_Balor View Post
What i need to know is, if i replace the valve's (which i can get cheapish from Spectra Premium) will the pump still need replacing too or will it perform properly once the valves can close? Can i assume the pump is stuck on because a valve is open?
I think you are being overly optimistic from what I saw. I threw codes that said the valve was stuck open, but I did not get a code about the pump.

How is it that your ECU is locked?
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Old 07-25-2015, 06:46 PM   #1038
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New to the forum.. I have done a ecu reflash with tactix. Selected all the DTCs that I wanted to trigger and left all the secondary air pump codes unchecked and reflashed. After two or three drive cycles I get p0410. At first I figured I must of mistakenly selected it. Went through the reflash again making sure I didn't miss anything. Still p0410 returns. Please help what am I missing?
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Old 08-12-2015, 01:00 AM   #1039
WanderingTR
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From what I have gathered; if you remove the secondary air injection system and install the delete kit- that solves the mechanical issue. Fairly simple, water causes the valve to corrode, seize up, and throw P2444 as well as a slew of other codes. Stuck on or otherwise comprimised.

I think the key is getting it tuned at a shop that has the proper equipment. I've talked to a few guys locally that do this frequent enough to warrant confidence. I think the job is relatively cheap if you do the labor yourself. At least until you have to buy the tags >.<
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Old 08-12-2015, 07:52 PM   #1040
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WanderingTR View Post
From what I have gathered; if you remove the secondary air injection system and install the delete kit- that solves the mechanical issue. Fairly simple, water causes the valve to corrode, seize up, and throw P2444 as well as a slew of other codes. Stuck on or otherwise comprimised.

I think the key is getting it tuned at a shop that has the proper equipment. I've talked to a few guys locally that do this frequent enough to warrant confidence. I think the job is relatively cheap if you do the labor yourself. At least until you have to buy the tags >.<
You are very correct about the first part, pulled one out on my buddys, was completely corroded and filled with water.

Kept it on, blocked the pump and installed the delete kit. Got the codes blocked and its been tits ever since.
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Old 09-17-2015, 05:00 PM   #1041
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Just purchased my 07 STI, with 69,000 miles on it and having a little trouble/some questions about this.

Seems as if the previous owner removed the air pump system and reinstalled (to be what looks correctly). But just recently, the CEL came on, got it read and its P0410 code. It only happens on cold starts.

Not sure where to begin, but this is what the engine bay looks like. I'm not 100% sure but to me it looks like he did everything correctly, except the code is still popping up.

(On a side note, just in case this is related, I am getting P0021 code now but I think it just needs an oil change).

If everything looks correct, I'm assuming my next step would be to have someone tune out the code (or if possible, try to do myself?) See pictures below.




(Looks like he zip-tied what's left here).

(Not sure what this plug is).
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Old 09-25-2015, 12:12 AM   #1042
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The whole function of Air pump is at cold starts it spools up hot air into the exhaust to heat up the cat to run more efficiently when it's cold, it does no harm to the engine or trans. I have an 06 wrx wagon and at some cold starts I have gotten a cel with the same code and it says it's either stuck closed or open the valve. I wouldn't worry about it at all just need to get it out of the brain "ecu" and do a re tune.
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Old 09-28-2015, 11:26 PM   #1043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastthis View Post
The whole function of Air pump is at cold starts it spools up hot air into the exhaust to heat up the cat to run more efficiently when it's cold, it does no harm to the engine or trans. I have an 06 wrx wagon and at some cold starts I have gotten a cel with the same code and it says it's either stuck closed or open the valve. I wouldn't worry about it at all just need to get it out of the brain "ecu" and do a re tune.
Just got an AP and flashed my Stage 2 93 map, removed P0410 from ECU using AccessTuner Race and no issues yet! Though, today was only day 1.
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Old 09-29-2015, 01:36 AM   #1044
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i just bought a 07 wrx off a friend of a friend with air pump deleted the guy is a former mechanic so i know its done right

dont have any CELs right now but is this mod gonna throw codes down the line?
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Old 09-29-2015, 09:22 AM   #1045
Dill-Ag13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nyhifihead View Post
i just bought a 07 wrx off a friend of a friend with air pump deleted the guy is a former mechanic so i know its done right

dont have any CELs right now but is this mod gonna throw codes down the line?
If the system has been deleted and all the proper codes have been tuned out of the ECU, then it won't throw any related codes down the line.
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Old 10-10-2015, 07:49 PM   #1046
Kremer930
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Wow. What a long read.

I have an ADM MY08 Sti and recently put in a new bottom end and deleted the air pump system along the way using the recommended delete plates.

My tuner noticed that there is no atmospheric pressure data in my logs and so I read the forums and realised that there is a pressure sensor in the Left hand side solenoid. I have now hacksawed the sensor off the solenoid and will remove my top mount intercooler so that I can find the loom plug to connect the atmospheric sensor into. Once that is done I will cable tie it into place. My codes are already disabled.

My car is still on a base running in tune given a number of component changes performed at the time of the engine swap. My idle is a little rough without the pressure sensor but it may be due to other items.

Thanks to all for the help in this forum.

Can anyone show a photo of the atmospheric sensor plugging into the loom so that I can see where to find the wires?
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Old 10-12-2015, 04:42 PM   #1047
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Got the atmospheric sensor plugged in and cable ties out of the way yesterday. Still resolving some unrelated issues with the new build but will update to advise my thoughts as well as my mechanics over the next few days.

This issue seems to be a non issue on ADM Sti's. My mechanic pointed to two G3 Sti's that have both had full air pump deletes and are not running the atmospheric sensor. Both are open source tuned.

My tuner asked to see the barometric pressure data as soon as I sent him my first log. It will be interesting to see if it is required or if it is just a nice to have if you live in mountainous areas where you could encounter significant altitude and pressure changes.
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Old 10-12-2015, 04:44 PM   #1048
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I forgot to add that in my researching of this topic I did see someone ask the question about setting in a pressure reading and then adjusting the scaling on that number to Nil so that the variable did not have any impact on the map. Has anyone ever done this?
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Old 10-13-2015, 10:55 AM   #1049
element4lifex8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kremer930 View Post
Wow. What a long read.

I have an ADM MY08 Sti and recently put in a new bottom end and deleted the air pump system along the way using the recommended delete plates.

My tuner noticed that there is no atmospheric pressure data in my logs and so I read the forums and realised that there is a pressure sensor in the Left hand side solenoid. I have now hacksawed the sensor off the solenoid and will remove my top mount intercooler so that I can find the loom plug to connect the atmospheric sensor into. Once that is done I will cable tie it into place. My codes are already disabled.

My car is still on a base running in tune given a number of component changes performed at the time of the engine swap. My idle is a little rough without the pressure sensor but it may be due to other items.

Thanks to all for the help in this forum.

Can anyone show a photo of the atmospheric sensor plugging into the loom so that I can see where to find the wires?
I dont have a great photo to see where the barometric sensor harness runs because it is routed beneath the Y pipe (as seen in the photo below). I actually had my atmospheric sensor go bad and cause the ECU to see the lowest pressure value available of ~7 psi and it caused the engine to rev up to 2500rpms on start up and idle at higher rpms than normal, and I started getting a fuel cut due to overboost around 4500rpms in 4rd gear. You definitely want this sensor to be plugged in and working.


Last edited by element4lifex8; 10-13-2015 at 10:57 AM. Reason: whoops, a little late on seeing the post I quoted, but maybe the photo will help someone else looking to recconnect sensors
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Old 10-13-2015, 05:19 PM   #1050
Kremer930
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Default 06 WRX Air Pump Removal - is it safe??

Thanks for the help. I found the harness plug and managed to secure the sensor not far from the main wiring connector block going to the firewall.

I will try to grab a photo and post in case it helps someone else.

It is still surprised that most Australian cars deleting the air pumps do not replace and run the atmospheric sensor. Two mechanics that I strongly trust have cited many examples of modified and tuned cars that do not run this sensor and are also not on speed density or MAP setups.
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