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Old 09-05-2016, 07:15 PM   #1
zech.flaugh
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Default Multiple Problems CEL P0016 P0303 P0301 (now misfire on all 4)

I am going to do something here that will probably get me in trouble but I have carefully documented everything I have done on another post that is getting no traffic and I am at a complete loss. I started posting on someone else's post that had the same original symptoms so I thought we could attack it together but he hasn't posted anything else and I need some more ideas.

Original Post: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2796643

Im going to paste all of my posts back to back here. Some of it may be out of context but you can probably infer most of the meaning so here goes:

1.

I just moved back from Germany with my 2007 STI and my car started doing this same thing.

50k miles, 10k on the engine. Stage 2+. cat back invidia exhaust. Intercooler. I didnt mod it and the guy the did told a shop to "make it fast." It was tuned in Colorado at 6000 ft altitude in around 2010. I just got back to the States where I can get parts without waiting 2 weeks and I am trying my best to get this taken care of myself, but its a little disheartening to see that this problem kicked some experienced guys asses.

I have changed my plugs (cyl 1 and 3 looked pretty beat up) I have coils coming in the mail tomorrow along with a camshaft positioning sensor. Just changed the oil.

The problem presented in the middle of a tank of gas, not driving it hard. I don't have my tools yet so I am hesitant to dig into the timing because I'll have to buy some things I already have. I want to get it tuned to this altitude but its running so badly that I can't even do that yet.

Honestly, not good at this yet, but I have 2 Subarus now and I'm going to work on them myself. Just wish I had a little easier problem to get started on.

Same EXACT symtoms rextech255 describes in his posts. Heavy fuel smell from the exhaust. Same codes. Runs ok at low RPMs on the road but heavy acceleration or idle are really rough. I'm going to check the AVCS tomorrow along with changing the coils and the camshaft positioning sensor if I can find the bastard.

Last thing, after I replaced the plugs, it started and ran smooth for 30 seconds to a minute and then went back to sounding like Eleanor in Gone in 60 Seconds after Nicholas Cage jumped it...which made me want to cry.

Really appreciate some input.

2.

OK, I finally got the positioning sensor in the mail today. Had a lot of other stuff going on but I was able to get it put in this evening and after a short test drive, I think I'm good. I have some other issues I'm still dealing with but the rough Idle and total loss of power at any boost level is gone.

rextech255, is it possible that you got a second bad positioning sensor or did you say you switched your sensors from bank 1 to 2 and had the same code?

I'm going to drive it some more tomorrow morning and I will update, but I think I solved that problem for me.

I am still working on some chronic issues which I hope are stemming from the high altitude tune, but I was hitting 20 PSI boost on my little test drive and I couldn't get any before the sensor change.

Hopefully it stays fixed and I'm not feeling a placebo that is going to go away tomorrow.

Good luck with yours and keep us informed.

3.

Nope. Cyl 3, 1 misfire codes still coming up. P0016 is not. I think I am dealing with bigger Issues and I am not sure if I am capable of troubleshooting them all.

I did a quick video of how it's Idling now and what it does after you rev it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iK1hXmRgBos

4.


Replaced the cyl 3 coil today as I have only seen codes for misfire on 3 in the last couple days, on the test drive I got misfire 1,3 so I'll replace the coil on 1 tomorrow. I'm not getting any timing codes, I have a full tank of good gas and have tried 3 different maps for 93 oct gas. 2 COBB stage 2 maps and my old protune map, codes and misfires and rough idle on all 3 maps. The idle has gotten a little smoother, it's not dying at intersections anymore so thats a plus. I feel like I should check the timing, but I don't have any timing codes and I don't have the tools to tear it down right now. I'll keep working on it. Would be nice to hear what Rex has found out.

4.

So I made my wife help me and checked spark in cylinder 1, nice big spark.

I haven't gotten the camshaft code since I changed the positioning sensor. I am thinking about doing a complete TB job on it this weekend because I think there may be a bearing out on a pulley. I have a really loud screech for about 30 seconds when its semi-cold or cold and I start it.

I am also seeing a lot of people saying to change the fuel filter. Im torn on which to do first, but I will add the avcs solenoid to the list as well.

So far I have new plugs on all 4 cylinders, new coils on the 2 that are misfiring (always 3,1). I don't think they were bad coils. I started the car with coil on 3 unplugged and I think it idled better than when its plugged in, at best about the same. At idle it doesnt throw a code though, the code throws when I get up to 5k RMP accelerating on the road.

I did a boost leak test today, the system is solid, no leaks.

Here is a video of the car starting, idling, and shutting down.

https://youtu.be/pBl5Eo-f44U

let me know what you think,


5.

The passenger side AVCS had a bunch of debris in it from the screen in the check screw falling apart. I think it was blocking the function of the AVCS. I ordered a new one and there are some pieces missing that must be floating around in there somewhere doing God knows what. Hopefully they stayed in the AVCS.

Part of the reason it took so long for me to check this Autozone insisted there was no AVCS for my car in their system. Tonight it came up under "Engine Vrbl Timing Sol" PN: TS1052 by Duralast.

Here is a video of the first start after I pulled the debris out and put it all back together in the dark...I put the clamp on the hose coming off the turbo wrong because I couldn't friggn see it, so this is what is sounds like with a big air leak...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNNOuKYq_SY (Notice insane belt racket, any ideas on that?)

Here is what it sounded like 20 minutes later after I took the air line out and repositioned it so I could get a good seal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGNW6Pngyf0

And here are the pieces I pulled out of the AVCS, I have photos if anyone wants more detail on where they were. From what I understand, there is quite a bit more of this thing missing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ICHywQJizoo

At this point I think I have my idle back to the realm of I need a pro-tune instead of my engine is about to explode. I'll test drive it tomorrow and post another update. 2 days until I get the new AVCS.

Zech

Waiting on the test drive to get excited...

Here is a link to some good information on what is going on with the screens. Granted they are talking about the ones feeding the turbo. http://www.forcedperformance.net/mer...Info_SubaruOil

6.

Still have misfire 3,1 but it is running a lot better, not to say thats good, than it was running. I will wait to post another update until after I change out the AVCS, it is very inconsistent at this point which I suspect has to do with either the missing pieces of the baja valve filter or my engine is shot. We will see.

Zech

If anyone has some suggestions as to what I could log to help nail down whats going on, that would be great.

7.

So I replaced the AVCS and when I started it...it was beautiful. Completely clean start, no weird stuff. Car sounds better than it has since I bought it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6FyDWQNXVNE

I Took it for a test drive, starting out nice and easy and then about a mile in I boosted up to 5 psi and let it coast down. There was a really loud backfire, but it sounded like it was right underneath me. I was pulling out into traffic so I did a little bit harder acceleration and it backfired again like 3 times rapidly. My tach started reading really wierd, when I let off the gas, it would drop to 0 RPMs even though the engine was running (aftermarket tach so it does weird stuff sometimes) I took it real easy for another mile or 2 and it seemed like every time I downshifted it would backfire, not as loud as if I was feeding it gas right before but this is still more backfires than I've ever had and at different times too. I got a P0016 halfway through the drive. Stopped the car to check codes a bit later and turn it off and on to see if I could get the tach to stop freaking out and I had misfires on 1,3,2 as well as P0016 (crankshaft position) bank 1. I pretty much limped it home at that point and I'm researching what my new problems might be.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UTR2dppqTSg :Yikes

Also, for a while now when I turn the key to on and let my gauges 0 out there has been a pretty loud hiss coming from the back half of the car. I just checked it out and I think it's the fuel pump. I also think it has gotten louder over the past 6 months. I'm wondering how loud a fuel pump on a car that's running smooth is, because that is an expensive part to replace on a whim.

I have fixed a lot of problems that stemmed from letting the car go too long without proper care, both by me, and the previous owner and I think I still have some problems to find.

I am seriously considering a full TB job because of the frequency that I have seen P0016 through this process. Should I pull the cover off and check it out or just order the kit and do it? I do not want to continue driving with a major problem that will cause major damage to the engine.

Getting pretty frustrated with making it run good only to uncover another issue. Will continue to update.

Here is the data log from that Idle and accelerate session: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...mNsWUF3VHAybzQ

8.

I am in Aberdeen, NC. Closest shop with good reviews is Turbo Time in Carry, NC about an hour away.

I have a new fuel pump on it's way. Didn't want to pay 250$ for a new hanger assembly and all so I got

HFP-342 255 LPH Performance Fuel Pump with Installation Kit

and it will be arriving tomorrow.

This is my last idea. Keep in mind, I'm going off common sense and a lot of forum browsing but what I think happened was my passenger side AVCS was malfunctioning and my air filter was filthy. Those 2 things were keeping my engine from running at anything close to normal, as soon as I fixed them, the failing fuel pump was no longer able to supply enough fuel. The fuel starvation is causing the misfires. If, after I install the new pump, the car wont idle and rev semi normally, I will figure out a way to trailer it to a shop.

I will post the results of the new fuel pump as soon as I get it in and test it out.

9.

So I got the new fuel pump today and got it installed. Once I got in there I found there was already an aftermarket Bosch fuel pump installed. It barely fit through the access hole so its a big heavy duty high flow pump. I took it out and put my little cheap high flow pump in. This is 10 seconds after I started it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZq8noQYZ5I

Took it on a test drive, nice and easy. Never boosted more than it takes to drive like a grandma, say 5 PSI max. Drove it about 2 miles. Stopped at a gas station to fill up. When I pulled out the the station my tach started going crazy again. Check engine light comes on, misfires on all 4. Engine won't rev for ****. Started limping it home, once I got going it was running fine again, under load its great, boosted to 5 to see if I could blow it up so I don't have to screw with it any more and as it boosts it's even better. Pulled into the driveway and took this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuFKSGyo3YQ

So cold it runs great, as soon as it warms up it goes to crap...kinda but only sometimes. I'm out of ideas. Seems like it might very well be fuel related but I have no idea what to do next. Injectors are way too expensive to throw at it and I tried to get one off to look at it the other day and I'm a little worried I might break something and end up having to buy a replacement so I backed out of doing that.

If you watch the videos I have taken since I started messing with it, the car has come a looong ways towards getting better, I just don't know where to go next.

Anyone? Ideas? Give me something. Can't take it to a shop, I need it to drive to work for 1 to 2 more weeks and then It can be at a shop as long as it wants.

In Summary for everyone that skimmed and didn't want to read it all:

I started with Misfires on 3,1 along with camshaft positioning sensor cels and a really rough idle, super loud lifter knock on 3.

I changed plugs on all 4. Coils on 1,3. New Camshaft positioning sensor. CELs for misfire on 1,3.

Took quarter pannel off, air filter was caked with junk. Replaced with K&N. Same CELs

Pulled Banjo Bolt on 1,3 AVCS, screen was destroyed pieces missing (not the case on 2,4 AVCS). Replaced 1,3 AVCS.

Codes now take longer to throw, but idle is crazy once the engine is warm. Seeing misfires on all cylinders as well as P0016 Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor A) after warm up, engine wont rev at idle at all but you can still drive it as under load it doesn't get weird unless you are coasting.

Possible bad fuel pump, really loud hissing that has increased over the past 6 months coming from fuel tank. Replaced fuel pump.

No change to codes or behavior. Cry for help.
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Last edited by zech.flaugh; 09-05-2016 at 07:40 PM. Reason: Added Summary
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Old 09-05-2016, 08:47 PM   #2
zech.flaugh
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Im reading about what the roughness count in my log means. Roughness is the actual number of misfires, which is super useful information...at idle reving to 2500 RPM for 8 seconds my engine misfired 50 times on Cyl 1...that can't be good. I am seeing possible fix is to replace injectors, anyone have thoughts on that? I guess the first step would be to switch my injector bars to the other side...thats a giant pain in the butt and I got misfires on all 4 today so it might not even tell me anything. Almost defaults to change them all. Anyone have any thoughts?
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Old 09-06-2016, 02:39 PM   #3
zech.flaugh
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Logs from today around the block. Getting low roughness counts randomly. About to pull it apart and do a compression test, driving it around to warm it up. No check engine lights but it goes into limp mode when I shut it off and turn it back on.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...kt0T3ZhRUdYR1U

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...XBQRC1qcUM5OFE

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...2hOeDlLMURDdHM
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Old 09-06-2016, 04:26 PM   #4
zech.flaugh
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Compression Test looks good to me...



World's Greatest Compression test assistant.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8e03cEyTYGU

Showing my assistant how i hooked up the compression test hose.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VtIokesqzFk

Ok guys, I don't know what the heck is going on. I have read hundreds of posts, swaped and replaced parts, burned the crap out of my hands doing the compression test on a hot engine. I don't know what the hell else to do.

I don't have a catch can, there is some goop in some of the lines but I have cleaned what I could out, im about to clean the throttle body. I could use some input from some of you lurkers out there. Help me out!! I can at least keep it entertaining in the process...

Zech
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Old 09-06-2016, 06:20 PM   #5
zech.flaugh
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Just got back from the test drive after putting everything back together from the compression test.

I put the old coils back on because the ones I bought were cheap as dirt and I dont think the coils are bad.

I put dielectric grease on the coils and the coil plugs, cleaned the MAF and put grease on that fitting as well.

After connecting the battery it starts up and runs good, revs good (i didnt hammer it though so it revs to 4k for sure) Drives good, there is a little fluctuation in the idle, but it doesn't even think about stalling. Boosted to 5 no problem, drove a couple more miles, boosted to 10 and it was like I hit a wall, complete loss of power, let off and still drove fine. Boosted to around 8 psi on the final straightaway and when I let off and coasted it backfired 3 times rapidly but it was still driving fine as long as I didnt hit high rpms or boost. Brought it back home, turned it off, then turned it back on, it went straight into limp mode and threw codes for misfires on all 4 (P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304) and P0016 again. Cruise light flashing, won't rev past 4500 rpm. My Defi tach is going nuts though. When I let off the gas in gear, it drops to 0 rpm...the stock tach isn't doing any of the wacky stuff the Defi tachometer is doing. While driving, every fluctuation in throttle position gets a twitchy response from the Defi Tach.

The only thing I haven't done that seems to be a step in troubleshooting this myself is check the timing, but I feel like if the timing was off there would be some codes to back that up. I think I'm gonna throw a new MAF sensor on it. The backfires are unused fuel getting dumped into the exhaust so I don't think im starving for fuel. I put a pretty budget fuel pump on the other day but its a high flow pump so I think I should be getting plenty of fuel, its just way way smaller than the bosch pump that was in there for the last shop to mod it. I don't know. Do you guys think I'm at the point where I need to get it to a tuner and see if its something in the tune? I have tried a bunch of stock Cobb maps and they run like crap. I'm gonna call around for a MAF, please give me some feedback someone.

Last edited by zech.flaugh; 09-06-2016 at 08:54 PM. Reason: Added code numbers to improve searchability (thats a word now, I invented it)
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Old 09-07-2016, 07:49 PM   #6
zech.flaugh
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Went to go to work today and my fuel pressure was at 20 psi. I parked it and stole my wifes car.

When I got home I put the bigger Bosch pump back in along with a new seal for the fuel pump hanger assembly, the old one was looking rough and they are 5 bucks at NAPA, might as well change it out.

The smaller one I put in was slipping off the hose port even though I put hose clamps on the pump and the hose. Also, heat shrink takes on the consistency of a used condom when soaked in gas. I read somewhere there is an adhesive heat shrink that doesnt do that.

Fuel pressure is 40 PSI at Idle. The pump sounds like a coffee grinder but its pumping.
Still goes into limp mode with more than 10% throttle.

Putting a new MAF sensor on tomorrow morning because when I tap or put pressure on the outside of the MAF sensor it changes the idle drastically. I don't think that's normal.

My buddy in Colorado thinks it's a fuel issue, either somewhere in the delivery system or at the injectors. That's where I will be looking next I guess.

Need to figure out what kind of fuel rails I have so I can get a new set of injectors, ouch $$$!!

This has become my journal of documented failures, hopefully someday, someone can learn from this...I have learned a lot about my car through the process but I would really like to catch a break now...

Log from driving in town in limp mode today: So much roughness counts

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...nplR180N3pudlE
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Old 09-08-2016, 07:12 PM   #7
zech.flaugh
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MAF sensor made a pretty big difference, still something screwy going on but its semi driveable... It gets screwy at 4000 rmps, and while reving at idle it wont go past 2k rpms, feeling like there is a rev limiter almost. I tried to get it past 2k and it threw the p0016 code but no misfires now.

Tach keeps doing stuff like this, so confused. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGQ-6eZp2ew any time i let off the gas and coast.
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Old 09-08-2016, 09:51 PM   #8
zech.flaugh
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Tried to get a look at the timing tonight. The bottom left timing cover bolt is spinning in the hole, won't come out...nothing is ever easy. I'm gonna have to mess up the cover pretty bad to get that bolt out.
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Old 09-09-2016, 09:17 PM   #9
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Ok guys, after 2 weeks of pain I think I have the lost problem nailed down. The timing belt either stretched or jumped a tooth or 2. It was dark when I finished getting the cover off. I bought a hacksaw and sawed the first bolt off, then I had another one do the same thing...the nuts and bolts near the exhaust are getting so hot its melting the anchoring plastic around them down enough that they just spun. The second one was in a really bad spot, I spend over an hour trying to get it out without really messing the cover up and it ended up snapping off anyway...

Here are a couple photos and a video of where the timing is at:





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0y5t01JQ_k

New timing belt will be in in the morning. Ill keep it updated.
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Old 09-09-2016, 09:54 PM   #10
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This has to be a forum record number of posts with no reply...

Anyway, I have been trying to educate myself on fixing timing that's off so when I take the belt off tomorrow I dont screw up my engine. Here is a softball for anyone that has done this thing.

From what I understand, if the crankshaft is TDC, I can move the other pulleys however I need to to get proper alignment right?

This belt has a max of 56k miles on it and it's likely it only has about 12k miles on it, I am not going to replace anything but the belt, it doesn't seem worth it with that kind of mileage on them.

If your mom leaves her house at 0600 in the morning and drives non stop, how long does it take her to get to my house?

:/

Last edited by zech.flaugh; 09-09-2016 at 10:01 PM. Reason: The answer is it doesn't take her any time at all, she never leaves my house, I'm your dad, your adopted, no one likes you.
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Old 09-10-2016, 06:14 PM   #11
zech.flaugh
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I just spent 3 hours trying to get the driver side timing marks lined up by myself. Got the new belt on them once but it was half a tooth off and I had to start over. Wife finally got home so I had her holding the intake sprocket while I adjusted the exhaust sprocket and tried to secure them with a set of vise grips. I adjusted them too tight, using the vise grips I was able to take a massive chunk out of the side of the exhaust sprocket and now I get to buy a new one and figure out how to get that bastard off. This is getting ridiculous.
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Old 09-10-2016, 10:07 PM   #12
zech.flaugh
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Am I in the wrong forum or something? Why does no one ever say anything? Am I being so stupid that it's not worth dropping a comment? I'm doing the work, it's not like I am asking someone on a forum to solve all my problems for me, just asking for a little brainstorming occasionally...maybe a quick, "Hey, when you are fixing the timing, don't use visegrips on the camshaft sprockets, they break." Where was that comment at? Project on hold until the middle of next week when the new sprocket and removal tool get in...
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Old 09-14-2016, 06:15 PM   #13
zech.flaugh
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cam bolt stripped...looking for a good place to get a car crushed
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Old 09-14-2016, 07:36 PM   #14
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Hey man try not to use vice grips on the cam shaft sprockets they might break!!! Lol


Nah but on a serious note I'm sorry your having so many issues bro.... Wish I could help but Im just as clueless as you are man.... Sux no one is responding to your cry for help hope you get it figured out tho.. and if not I'll give you 10 bucks for the car ***128527;
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Old 09-14-2016, 08:13 PM   #15
zech.flaugh
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It's all good man...the Hex head stripped out...I just dropped my tools, closed the hood and the garage and walked away. I don't have a torch to heat the bolt, or a welder to weld a nut on...really dont want to try and drill it out. I'm stumped. It's been one thing after another, really frustrating. It was all pretty straight forward, but nothing ever goes smooth when you need it to.
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Old 09-15-2016, 12:15 AM   #16
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Yea I hear ya there... But GL man I'm sure you'll get it figured out eventually.....
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Old 09-17-2016, 04:56 PM   #17
zech.flaugh
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I got the cam bolt out. Ended up renting a wire feed welder from ace hardware, tried a lot of different bolts, trying to get one welded on good enough to hold and break the cam bolt loose, non of them held. After trying again and again, I bought the bolt/nut remover set from sears, but it wouldn't stop twisting off. As a last ditch effort I pounded the #11 17mm bolt remover onto the nut and then welded the inside of the bolt remover to the nut...finally got it off. Waiting on a new cam bolt from Subarupartsplus that will be here monday, then I can get back to the original problem of getting the timing set correctly.

Also had a small piece of the center back timing belt cover break off when the cover bolt stripped down at the bottom, I used some JB weld and got that stuck back where it goes so that its nice and dry when it comes time to put everything back together.

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Old 09-19-2016, 09:22 AM   #18
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Dang almost like giving birth when you finally through with it you won't wanna let go lol
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Old 09-23-2016, 08:08 PM   #19
zech.flaugh
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Got it all back together, was still acting wierd but boosted to 15 initially on the test drive with no problems. I accelerated pretty hard off a light and popped misfires on all 4 and limp mode. Drove it home and opened the hood to find oil EVERYWHERE. Dumped 4 quarts of oil on the test drive...looking at it, I think its coming from the cam I was messing with, after ordering a new seal from autozone (rubber 5$) I am nearly positive that I melted the original seal trying to get the stripped out cam bolt out.

"hey man, if you are gonna weld that bolt off, you might as well get a 5$ seal because it might get damaged by the heat."

...where was that one guys?

Anyway, just closed on the new house, so I can drip oil in my own garage now. Ill keep this rediculously quiet post updated so no one ever does the dumb **** that I am a magnet for...

I forgot to put the little cap on the intake cam sprocket drivers side so as punishment, I have to get all the way back to the exhaust cam seal. Before you put the timing cover back on, take a look around and make sure you don't have anything extra laying around.

Keep it real lurkers,

Zech
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Old 09-23-2016, 09:40 PM   #20
Brystephor
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Man, your subaru is really testing your patience. So now you get to pull the valve covers to get to the cam to replace the seal right? (New to subarus, thats a serious question)
I hope once your timing is all together and correct your issues go away man.
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Old 09-23-2016, 11:21 PM   #21
zech.flaugh
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God I hope not. The seal I am talking about is right behind the cam sprocket. It is touching all the metal I had red hot to get the messed up bolt welded out. If I would have know it was rubber I would have replaced it regardless of what it looked like but it doesnt look like its rubber



I got all the way back into the timing belt cover tonight, gonna line everything up to make sure the timing is still good and then take the timing belt off again. If the timing is off im going to replace the tensioner and throw it all back together, see where we are from there.
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Old 09-24-2016, 07:34 PM   #22
Slow-09-WRX-Hatch
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I had the small BOV line blow off the manifold and it caused very similar symptoms. Have you checked your PCV valve to make sure it's functioning?
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Old 09-24-2016, 08:02 PM   #23
zech.flaugh
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I can't find a PCV valve on mine, there is some rerouted lines and what looks like a pvc valve, but there's no valve, its capped on the side leading down towards the engine near the turbo and it has a straight line through it with no valve on the top. the small lines off the manifold are both on, secure and don't seem to want to come off. The straight line feeds back into the intake line after the MAF but before the turbo.

I would love to check the pcv valve if someone could tell me where the hell it is because from all my research, there is nothing where people say it should be.
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Old 09-24-2016, 08:22 PM   #24
Slow-09-WRX-Hatch
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I'm not familiar with your platform but I believe the assembly should be similar to the one pictured above. On my 09 WRX it was located to the right of the turbo between the I/M and TMIC.

Another thing you could check would be grounding. Defective grounds can cause all types of issues. My MAF ground was bad and my car wouldst idle and was throwing misfire codes on all cylinders.

Did you post a MOD list somewhere?
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Old 09-24-2016, 08:23 PM   #25
Slow-09-WRX-Hatch
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Do you have any logs you could post?
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