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Old 09-21-2003, 02:09 PM   #1
IA Performance
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Default Blown motor removal pics from yesterday

Well, after a long Friday I pulled the motor. Here are the good the bad and the ugly pics.

The GOOD. What do you get when you install V7 sti heads with 272 JUN cams onto a US 2.5 sti block? We're going to find out. Gruppe-S has provided me with the next step in the project. A JDM sti version 7 crate motor. Fast delivery and mint condition:



The BAD. Apparently my #3 rod wanted to have its own vent hole. Yes that is right, not #4:


Th UGLY. Is mobile 1 suppose to look like baby poo?


For now this is how she sits. Partially violated.


What has this lesson taught me?
"friends don't let friends drive stock cars"

Some V7 parts are for sale in the classifieds as well. Around 3K miles on them:

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Last edited by East Coast Scooby; 09-26-2003 at 03:52 AM.
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Old 09-21-2003, 02:17 PM   #2
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Good luck Stephen.. Looks like your motor is moving along faster than mine? You wouldnt happen to have another v7 to sell would ya? How long did it take you to pull the motor and how many people were helping?

Thanks
Dave
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Old 09-21-2003, 02:27 PM   #3
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It took me about 4-5 hours to pull it. I was essentially the sole worker. I had clark help with the crane when pulling it up but other than that you are looking at the sole mechanic.

I'll see if the place has extra V7 blocks for sale for ya Better to have the motor sitting there ready to go than to do what I'm doing, WAITING
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Old 09-21-2003, 02:31 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by East Coast Scooby
It took me about 4-5 hours to pull it. I was essentially the sole worker. I had clark help with the crane when pulling it up but other than that you are looking at the sole mechanic.

I'll see if the place has extra V7 blocks for sale for ya Better to have the motor sitting there ready to go than to do what I'm doing, WAITING
WOW nice going man! Yes please let me know on the V7 motor. I could use a complete longblock wit ecu/harness. Have you pulled one of these engines befor or was this your first time? I would like to do this myself but really wouldnt know where to begin..

Dave
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Old 09-21-2003, 02:53 PM   #5
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This was my first one to ever pull. I've installed all of my own parts in the past and this was pretty similar to that. The usual removal of downpipe, radiator, air box, etc. If you do end up doing this on your own drop me a PM and I'll point out some areas that really help. I.E. this hidden retainning pin that holds the tranny to the motor that Clark pointed out to me.
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Old 09-21-2003, 04:36 PM   #6
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Lookin like a good project East Coast Scooby!! Sorry about your loss of an engine but it always opens up the door for more power and a stronger motor. Cant wait to see your results as I have something somewhat similar to your project planned except I am going to stick with a built 2.0L block with V7 heads with Jun Cams. Keep up the good work!!

-Matt
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Old 09-21-2003, 04:50 PM   #7
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Are you still using the avcs with the jun cams? IIf so im instestered in how you did it.
thanks
-nick
cronic- I have a v7 longblock and Im having second thoughts about the motor. PM me if you want more info. Im not sure if I want to sell it or part it out.
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Old 09-21-2003, 05:15 PM   #8
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The AVCS will not be opperational. After talking to various large HP people the decision is not to try to run it. Both turbo xs and axis power racing are the sources for said information. I'm not really concerned especially when you consider I'm increasing my displacement by a quarter of the size. Even if there is added lag due to not having the avcs it will most likely not be any worse than what my 2.0 block originally had.
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Old 09-21-2003, 05:24 PM   #9
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may I ask where you sourced the JUN cams? also do they fit standard usdm 2.0 heads?
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Old 09-21-2003, 05:37 PM   #10
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Quote:
Are you still using the avcs with the jun cams?

You cant run avcs with the JUN cams... And they fit fine in usdm wrx heads. As the wrx heads are a Ver.6 casting. Im not sure but you will most likily have to upgrade the rest of the valve train too.

Jun says they wont work on ver7 heads, but they do you just wont beable to use avcs with them.

Last edited by totoherbs; 09-21-2003 at 05:42 PM.
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Old 09-21-2003, 05:40 PM   #11
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so what happened w/ur other motor? beside the #3 blowing

how did it blow? racing? auto-x? drag? how much power were u laying down before it blew? and how long?
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Old 09-21-2003, 05:54 PM   #12
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totoherbs- the 272 require new buckets, springs, and you should do the retainers. This is for any head you stick them into. They do fit the V7 heads.

The original motor blew at the track. The 5th time I drag raced it (since I don't like to beat on the tranny), meaing 5th pass A little bit of detonation created by nitrous does a whole lot of damage. I guess it was the motors time. The utec flashed the CE light and I backed out immediately, just to little to late.
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Old 09-21-2003, 06:07 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by East Coast Scooby
totoherbs- the 272 require new buckets, springs, and you should do the retainers. This is for any head you stick them into. They do fit the V7 heads.

The original motor blew at the track. The 5th time I drag raced it (since I don't like to beat on the tranny), meaing 5th pass A little bit of detonation created by nitrous does a whole lot of damage. I guess it was the motors time. The utec flashed the CE light and I backed out immediately, just to little to late.
Thanks...
Why such long getation cams on a ej257? I didnt think spinning it that high was good... I guess time will tell huh

As for were to get just cams dude I only know of rallispec and they arent cheep at like 1200ish?
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Old 09-21-2003, 08:18 PM   #14
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These cams are for racing and will allow for a more complete evacuation of the exhaust gases including some of the Intake charge thats now entering the combustion chamber...This will make the engine grumpy when at idle and make some serious power at drag race speeds...

The thing with Long Duration Turbo Cams is they will shorten turbo life since your'e dropping unburnt fuel into the turbine where it will burn and wear on the wheel but it will spool that turbo much faster thats why you look to run something like a T67 or T78 with a set of cams like that...

Zee
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Old 09-21-2003, 08:32 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by kaos200
may I ask where you sourced the JUN cams? also do they fit standard usdm 2.0 heads?
You can get them from any JUN retailer. And yes they do fit the 2.0L WRX heads. Check this link out:

Click Here

-Matt
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Old 09-21-2003, 10:00 PM   #16
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E.C.S- was that your stock block or a V.7 block, and how much spray?
-nick
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Old 09-21-2003, 11:11 PM   #17
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I'm picking the cams up from Axis power racing, they'll also be installing them as I'm not the best at head work.

It will have lump lump lump sound I'm not sure if that is really what I want but a little to late to back out :/ Several people swore up and down that I will love them and they I haven't been steered wrong by them yet. Faith

Turbo will be a FP Green trim. I may do some minor custom work to it though, I have to wait and hear back though.

The nitrous shot was a 50 wet NX shot. The story goes like this:

I just hooked up my bottle heater and that night was the first time to use it. It is AMAZING what bottle pressure does to the shot of nitrous consumed by the motor. I had to many things on my mind at the time to even think about that. WIsh I had though. On the dyno without heating the bottle it put down a 30 whp gain. Clark's and my assumption is that with the pressure it put down more like a 50-60 whp gain. That and warm weather are detonoations best friends.
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Old 09-22-2003, 12:24 PM   #18
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Way to go Steve. Like I told you, I would have come down to help... but I guess you aren't patient enough

I can't believe that thing made it all the way home w/ a hole in the block, very impressive to say the least. How the hell did you manage to find an FP Green anyway?

Keep me updated man!

Quote:
Originally posted by Sunrise City Rider

The thing with Long Duration Turbo Cams is they will shorten turbo life since your'e dropping unburnt fuel into the turbine where it will burn and wear on the wheel but it will spool that turbo much faster thats why you look to run something like a T67 or T78 with a set of cams like that...

Zee
I agree about helping with spool. Luckily on these cars, its not dropping fuel onto the turbine (like an inline setup) but rather shooting it through the manifold and the uppipe before it gets to the turbo, giving the fuel a little more time to ignite... should make life a little easier on the turbo.

Dan
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Old 09-22-2003, 02:41 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by East Coast Scooby

The nitrous shot was a 50 wet NX shot. The story goes like this:

I just hooked up my bottle heater and that night was the first time to use it. It is AMAZING what bottle pressure does to the shot of nitrous consumed by the motor. I had to many things on my mind at the time to even think about that. WIsh I had though. On the dyno without heating the bottle it put down a 30 whp gain. Clark's and my assumption is that with the pressure it put down more like a 50-60 whp gain. That and warm weather are detonoations best friends.
Sorry to hear about your engine Sounds like you have a great plan, though

Even though it's "water under the bridge", and you may be aware of this: when using a bottle warmer, pressure increases in the bottle, which is analogous to increasing the size of the N20 jet. That's why you can "tune" a kit with only one N20 / fuel jet using only bottle pressure (providing you don't exceed the safety valve rating).

Good luck on your new setup!

Steve
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Old 09-22-2003, 03:46 PM   #20
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Pm'd you
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Old 09-22-2003, 04:05 PM   #21
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This is the second engine I've heard of that blew as direct result of adding a bottle heater. Maybe this should be a sticky to forewarn others?
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Old 09-22-2003, 05:17 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by quickgtp
This is the second engine I've heard of that blew as direct result of adding a bottle heater. Maybe this should be a sticky to forewarn others?
hmm no I dont think thats a good idea. Then we will have 500 stickies on little things that may not be a good idea...
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Old 09-22-2003, 06:15 PM   #23
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Quote:
It is AMAZING what bottle pressure does to the shot of nitrous consumed by the motor.
i 100% agree. get that bottle to between 900-1000 and you have almost twice the power. i know guys on bikes that run a 30 shot but when the bottle is at over 1200, they make 60 hp.
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Old 09-22-2003, 06:50 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by jinxproof99


i 100% agree. get that bottle to between 900-1000 and you have almost twice the power. i know guys on bikes that run a 30 shot but when the bottle is at over 1200, they make 60 hp.
Lean is mean

esp. when referring to N20. I probably wouldn't use that philosophy with a engine that is detonation prone, though.

If my memory serves me correctly, NOS uses the standard 800 psi to rate the pills; any more pressure than that leans the mixture (which in most cases, with the "stock pill pairs", is a good thing).

Steve
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Old 09-22-2003, 10:15 PM   #25
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I pulled the heads and it revealed a little more about the death. I <cough, cough> snapped both #3 and #4 connecting rods I believe #4 went at the track and allowed me to drive on it since it was pinned up far enought not to cause problems. Once we got it home and rev'd slightly #3 went, or at least that is when the hole above #3 blow through the casing. Heads look good, but having them checked out by a subaru tech. V7 heads shipped today


Last edited by East Coast Scooby; 09-23-2003 at 02:20 AM.
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