Suby Experts Needed

[sig]

nope those numbers sound excellent, plus the jdm engines have higher compression, I wanna say thats around what mine read but dont remember exactly. Thats awesome news though, looks like you have a keeper

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[D-Rodman]

What ver ej207 do you have ? Will you have enabled avcs ? Why are you caping oil lines ? Just curious :-)

By the way I’m very pleased my ver 7 has been % reliable, it also uses no oil on 4500 mile oil change intervals.

[CarmMontana]

D-Rod- Sorry man I misspoke. It's a ej208 but I figured out the capping concerns on the passenger side turbo.

Here are a few pics of the process, it's coming along nicely. Excited to get her back up and running.

Question; JDM coils(Gray) or USDM coils(Black)? Not sure if the JDM are better in some way.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ruGqXECsYa6asqra8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/nX2Z5xuvoRLSgJG79
https://photos.app.goo.gl/5FioLTwimtHSSBL86

[sig]

Still not sure what you would need to cap on the passenger side head for turbo since thats were the turbo goes. I will mention that the JDM and USDM COOLANT return line (the big pipe) are different and it was the hardest part of the swap IMO to swap those out since it is pressed in. If there are ports that need capping I would just take the caps off the old engine the ones using the allen sockets and swap them over.

It's looking great otherwise. I would stick to the USDM coils since you are still going to be using the USDM harness/ecu, for all I know they are different because they use a higher octane than us in Japan

[sig]

JDM Ej205 vs USDM Ej205 - EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW - Swap - YouTube

JDM Ej205 vs USDM Ej205 - EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW - Swap - YouTube

this is the video I went off of when doing the swap, Im pretty sure he covered everything. Its much more than just the crank/cam sensors, but you may already know all of this

[CarmMontana]

Sig, losing my mind apparently. I meant the oil lines on the drivers side but I got it all figured out. Getting out the pressed pipe was a pain though.

So all I lack is the turbo and I should be able to reinstall. Getting super close! Busy week so best case I might be able to start her up this weekend!

Thanks for the video, I was using that as my go to as well.

[CarmMontana]

Finally got it all squared away. First start tonight, once I put on the intercooler all systems worked good. Didn’t run it long as it’s 10 and my neighbors already love my hobbies of bike building and guns so the new addition sure as hell doesn’t help.

Hoping my oil pressure switch is just being stupid. Going up to 80psi which I know is crazy. No way in hell my brass fitting would hold at that pressure so...

Tomorrow I’ll button the rest of it up and hopefully take her for a spin! Woot!

https://youtu.be/YRLmL_DZAKM

[CarmMontana]

Ok gents I have an issue.

Boost is not working. I have my pill in, but nothing is working. Not getting anything over 0, stays -8 at idle and up to 0 at 4500 and doesn’t go higher. Boost gauge is matching accessport.

So this is my question, could I have hooked up the boost solenoid backwards? Not sure how but maybe... Anything else you guys can think of? Turbo is clear and spinning freely.edit: I checked this, it’s all hooked up correctly.

Side note: happy thanksgiving

[CarmMontana]

Ok, so I see from a few other post that pulling the wastegate can tell me if the solenoid is bad or if its the wastegate...

i'll try that this weekend.

Anything else I can do to see whats up?

[subaru_gc8]

Originally Posted by CarmMontana

Ok gents I have an issue.

Boost is not working. I have my pill in, but nothing is working. Not getting anything over 0, stays -8 at idle and up to 0 at 4500 and doesn’t go higher. Boost gauge is matching accessport.

So this is my question, could I have hooked up the boost solenoid backwards? Not sure how but maybe... Anything else you guys can think of? Turbo is clear and spinning freely.edit: I checked this, it’s all hooked up correctly.

Side note: happy thanksgiving

is that -8 psi or vacuum?

[CarmMontana]

Originally Posted by subaru_gc8

is that -8 psi or vacuum?

At idle its reading -6 or -8 but when I pinch it it raises up to 0. That make sense

[CarmMontana]

Anybody? I think the solenoid went out but I havent given it a full 20-30 minute drive to verify, Im worried about my oil pressure.

I am getting really high oil pressure readings. I tapped into the back oil location, would that cause my oil pressure to be 60-80psi at idle? When I gas it under no load it shots way up to 100. This is my second gauge. I am not sure how to verify its accuracy as the accessport doesn't give me an oil reading.

Should I be concerned?

[CarmMontana]

Originally Posted by CarmMontana

Anybody? I think the solenoid went out but I havent given it a full 20-30 minute drive to verify, Im worried about my oil pressure.

I am getting really high oil pressure readings. I tapped into the back oil location, would that cause my oil pressure to be 60-80psi at idle? When I gas it under no load it shots way up to 100. This is my second gauge. I am not sure how to verify its accuracy as the accessport doesn't give me an oil reading.

Should I be concerned?

Answered my own question. 12mm pump so pressures are going to be alot higher.

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2439132

Everything you need to know about Subaru Oil Pumps - YouTube

Everything you need to know about Subaru Oil Pumps - YouTube

[CarmMontana]

Guys

Been driving her for a few days and having an odd issue. Really worried about what I am reading.

When I really get into boost and drive her hard its pushing antifreeze past both the expansion tank cap and the radiator cap. I thought at first it was an air bubble as it started to get hot the first time it did it. So I shut it down and let her cool, went home and topped it off but after driving again it overflowed the overflow tank and at full boost pushed past the cap on the expansion tank.

I am worried the headgasket is gone, causing pressure into the cooling system. It runs great if I don't hit boost. The threads i read are all over the place. I ordered new caps but not sure that's going to help out.

Reached out the JDM KING of Houston and they are offering to ship me another unit but before I redo this whole thing, anything I might be missing?

[D-Rodman]

Make sure your antifreeze hoses are hooked up correctly at the radiator and expansion tank on top of the intake manifold. If you mix those hoses and hook them the wrong way you’ll have the exact issue you are describing.

[kpm_777]

Originally Posted by CarmMontana

Guys

Been driving her for a few days and having an odd issue. Really worried about what I am reading.

When I really get into boost and drive her hard its pushing antifreeze past both the expansion tank cap and the radiator cap. I thought at first it was an air bubble as it started to get hot the first time it did it. So I shut it down and let her cool, went home and topped it off but after driving again it overflowed the overflow tank and at full boost pushed past the cap on the expansion tank.

I am worried the headgasket is gone, causing pressure into the cooling system. It runs great if I don't hit boost. The threads i read are all over the place. I ordered new caps but not sure that's going to help out.

Reached out the JDM KING of Houston and they are offering to ship me another unit but before I redo this whole thing, anything I might be missing?

This was the exact symptoms when I blew my headgasket, classic for a leak from combustion chamber into coolant passage. I would try the caps but I think you will find that it is the expensive option.

[CarmMontana]

Originally Posted by D-Rodman

Make sure your antifreeze hoses are hooked up correctly at the radiator and expansion tank on top of the intake manifold. If you mix those hoses and hook them the wrong way you'll have the exact issue you are describing.

you the man, Thanks ROD! That was it, I messed up the overflow and brought it back to the radiator. Silly mistake but luckily easy fix! Runs like a champ.

[D-Rodman]

I made the same mistake once, happy to help, glad it’s running good.

[CarmMontana]

So this thing has been running great, I'm about 2-3 tanks of gas in and something odd happened yesterday.

I was taking off from a cold start, icy roads so little to no traction but was playing around a bit. 1st gear came up to boost fine, shift into second and lose power when I hit boost. Like it bogs down pretty hard. When I push in the clutch the engine drops to zero rpm and dies, put it back in gear and it will run fine without boost. If I push it into boost it goes but acts like its not able to wind up properly, its lagging. NO CEL's at all.

If I stop or go to a stop light I have to start her back up, as long as I put my foot on the gas it will stay running but if I don't it dies almost immediately. Ran through the normal culprit, MAF, and cleaned it up. Put it back in and no change. Unplug it and the thing runs but idles at 2500 rpm... neighbors didn't love me for that diagnostic test at 9:30 last night.

Any thoughts guys?

I'm worried it could have jumped timing but not sure it would act like this. Or maybe blew a hose but can't find anything too obvious.

[ifearnoevo]

blown intercooler coupler or torn inlet hose?

[supermarkus]

I noticed your timing belt guide on the crank is missing, are the guides at the cam missing too?

[CarmMontana]

Originally Posted by supermarkus

I noticed your timing belt guide on the crank is missing, are the guides at the cam missing too?

Yes, they weren’t there on my other engine. I didn’t even know it was a thing until this issue. Would timing cause it to run like this?

[CarmMontana]

Originally Posted by ifearnoevo

blown intercooler coupler or torn inlet hose?

I haven’t pulled the intercooler but that was my first thought. Can’t see anything wrong but I’ll tear it off tonight and take a look.

[D-Rodman]

Fuel cut, need a tune.

[CarmMontana]

Originally Posted by D-Rodman

Fuel cut, need a tune.

Rod? What would cause that?

I have my accesstuner and I'm using an ots stage 2 that is pretty much spot on for my specs. The only thing is the cold air intake which I am going to take out and go back to the stock as I plan on rallying.

Would I be able to force it to run like i can if it was fuel cut?