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Old 03-14-2015, 12:11 PM   #1
Murphyman20thGTI
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Outback Sport 2005 OUTBACK XT, Turbo Dead steps to take next? Which turbo and future prevention

Hi all
I am trying to figure what to do next, the turbo ****ted out a few days ago right after check engine light and cruise light came on flashing. So I got it towed home scanned it which I got the code P0011 : A Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced (Bank 1))

vehicle is at currently 118,*** miles so I figured it was close to its end sometime in near future anyways, did the timing belt and water pump at about 110,000. basic oil changes, and the banjo bolt Filter had been removed already by previous owner/dealer. so I will be dropping the oil pan and such to see how much crap is in system.
here are some pics since I took the turbo out






Completely snapped off



SOOOO yea looks pretty bad I would say, trying to figure what would cause this crazy damage, the inlet propeller still spins fine not bound up.


Ok few thought on which turbo to use on my 05 xt which is rhf5h vf40 14411aa511. Is this stock turbo 16g because option 3 is 20g not sure if compatible.
Should I go with:
1) http://www.turbokits.com/…/IHI_VF40_...Turbocha…/698/
2) http://m.ebay.com/itm/321161267395?nav=SEARCH
3) http://m.ebay.com/itm/181668613089?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE
or type 2 or same brand http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kinugawa-Tur...d28fce&vxp=mtr
4) (just want thoughts on this one, doubtful I would buy it to cheap seems sketchy like China junk) http://m.ebay.com/itm/191469612690?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE
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Old 03-14-2015, 09:48 PM   #2
424wrx
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that looks like water with oil on everything as well. you need to find the other problems before slapping on another turbo.
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Old 03-15-2015, 08:11 AM   #3
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Yea I was thinking some kind of seal somewhere is leaking, head gasket or somthing. Or I'm not sure if this oil came from after the turbo came all apart on engine since the car was not burning any oil when this happens no smoke what so ever and I have never had a burning oil issues before hand.
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Old 03-15-2015, 08:33 AM   #4
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Is your bpv or bov functioning properly? Any compressor surge? After running it hard do you let it idle for a few minutes? If you don't have a turbo timer you should get one. I got one $30 knockoff runs great since, no more blown turbos

I have a small 16g and I really like it. You may need injectors, tune, and fuel pump.

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Old 03-15-2015, 08:35 AM   #5
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If the shaft snapped I would assume all that Is from the l turbo. If the shaft snapped then the seals would no longer hold and you would get oil and coolant everywhere.

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Old 03-15-2015, 08:46 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRX7 View Post
Is your bpv or bov functioning properly? Any compressor surge? After running it hard do you let it idle for a few minutes? If you don't have a turbo timer you should get one. I got one $30 knockoff runs great since, no more blown turbos

I have a small 16g and I really like it. You may need injectors, tune, and fuel pump.

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he doesnt need a turbo timer. this isnt the 1990s turbo tech.that has nothing to do with his problem. our systems continue to cycle coolant long after the engine is turned off. go google it man.
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Old 03-15-2015, 08:54 AM   #7
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Keep you go Google its to yourself. Yes the coolant reservoir up top helps but it is not as good as a simple cheap turbo timer. It's just good piece of mind, and I'm speaking from experience. Ran the turbo hard on the freeway. Thought I had let it cool down enough, but didn't as the oil burned and blew the turbo. Cleaned the oil out and rebuilt it myself and put it in with a new turbo timer.
No you don't absolutely need it, but the stock coolant system isn't fool proof and for $30 why wouldn't you?

All the good engine builders recommend a few minutes of idle cool down after hard runs.

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Old 03-15-2015, 11:42 AM   #8
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Default 2005 OUTBACK XT, Turbo Dead steps to take next? Which turbo and future preven...

Turbo timer = waste of money on water cooled turbo.

OP, I thought that might have been PB Blaster on the turbo. If not that is def a problem. Oil and water mixing like crazy.

How is PCV valve working? Other more knowledgeable people might have a idea of what could cause this.
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Old 03-15-2015, 03:40 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by some dude View Post
Turbo timer = waste of money on water cooled turbo.

OP, I thought that might have been PB Blaster on the turbo. If not that is def a problem. Oil and water mixing like crazy.

How is PCV valve working? Other more knowledgeable people might have a idea of what could cause this.
this. crx7, lack of a damn turbo timer didnt cause his problem. anyone with common sense would know to cool the car down a few minutes after a hard run. yours didnt blow cause of not having a turbo timer either. the turbo blew and thats it. also, crx7, a blanket statement that a turbo timer prevents blown turbos in the future just isnt true at all man.
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Old 03-15-2015, 11:20 PM   #10
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hmm.. what fool proof method would have automatically cooled it down and taken care of it for me. I wonder? Maybe something that costs $30 and takes 20 minutes to install.

yes i should have let it cool down more, obviously, but your point was that i didn't need to with the fancy coolant thing. obviously not true.

read the unabomber faq yourself. no they are not necessary , but nice to have for warm ups and cool down. And if you want more than 110k out of the turbo, let it idle ***9786;

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Old 03-16-2015, 08:56 AM   #11
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Ok wail trying to remove oil pan I need to jack up the motor a little to get the back bolts on the pan but the passengers side motir mount nut is stripped before I even touched it... So working in that.

SO NOW IM TRYING TO GET ALL PARTS ITEMS I NEED REPLACE TOGETHER. SO WHEN I DO FIND THE ISSUES THST CAUSED THE TURBO FAILURE I CANT THROW IT AKL BACJ TOGETHER.

SO THOUGHTS ON WHICH TURBO TO BUY??!!
My model is 14411aa511 rhf5h vf40 2005 subaru outback xt.
I want something OEM preferably but prices are still a little crazy and OEM chra for this model turbo is 320$-350$ then NONE OEM versions are like 125$ ish.
And complete turbos I have seen 319$ to 899$ Chinese crap is the low end and is cheaper then just on OEM chra so not wasting my time with that junk.

I would upgrade BUT can't afford to get a tune with up/down pipe setup please keep in mind thanks!
And anything else I should buy to replace wail I'm doing this now

Last edited by Murphyman20thGTI; 03-16-2015 at 09:03 AM.
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Old 03-16-2015, 09:03 AM   #12
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It's a force of habit now that I let my turbo/ car warm up and cool down from my last car which was big turbo'd gt2871r.
And the wife does the same when she drives it.
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Old 03-16-2015, 10:19 AM   #13
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Oil / oil vapor blow by from crank vent and valve cover vents going back thru air inlet pipe. Get some catch cans or aos. It has that look of water/ oil from condensation. Water always comes out of my catch cans and It isnt coolant
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Old 03-16-2015, 02:31 PM   #14
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Try these guys for a turbo. We've used them for years. Blouch Turbo, Inc. http://www.bptstore.com/
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Old 03-16-2015, 03:35 PM   #15
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I've had two hawkeye wrx's both 06/07 and I've run different turbo setups from stock turbo with bolt ons (stage 2) upto a 16g and front mount setup. If you do get a 16g it will make nice streetable power, but I only suggest going with a 16g if you buy a brand new one or a low mileage used one and make sure it's a quality brand like blouch. You will also need a new turbo inlet and intercooler and full exhaust. Not sure what mods you have on the car, but if you don't have any mods then going to a 16g you will need a lot of other mods.

On my current car I am running a vf48 Sti turbo and on my old 07 I ran a Sti turbo vf39 setup. The Sti turbo setups give pretty decent power and are reliable and pretty close to stock. If you go with a stock Sti turbo (vf39-48) you will need a bigger intercooler, full exhaust, and a retune. That's the most common and cheap power upgrade most people do to the older wrx/fxt models. I've run two of these setups and they were enjoyable. If your not trying to spend a lot of money then just go stock turbo.

My 2 cents on this whole cooling argument is that you don't need a turbo timer at all. My first wrx I used to let it warm up fully and idel down after any driving. My current car has a turbo timer installed by the previous owner and I don't even let this car warm up before driving it, I just stay out of boost and drive easy until it's warm and I actually turned off my turbo timer because it was unnecessary. As others have said the usual turbos on these cars are oil and coolant cooled. So after you shut the car off the turbo is continued to be cooled. If you drive the car really hard it's a good idea to let it idle down before shutting it off, but you don't need a turbo timer to keep your turbo alive.
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Old 03-16-2015, 03:51 PM   #16
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Vehicle is bone stock and ofcourse I would love more power BUT wife will kill me if I turn it into another tuner project!
And I'm on a budget currently so that makes things harder.
So for now I don't mind staying stock for the most part, so I'm thinking OEM vf40 and getting a catless uppipe.
Or if I find s good deal on a vf52 and unmarried accesport and ofcours get a new uppipe if I can afford it, I will just tell the wife it's stock! Haha

Anyone got anything I coukd use for sale?
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Old 03-17-2015, 09:22 AM   #17
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I would suggest a vf52 and tune (Open Source) or just bolt on a vf46 and call it a day.
STI up pipe are cheap and plentiful.
Contact this guy JmP6889928 and he can rebuild the VF40 better than stock. open source tune sti up and done. He's well known on LGT forums as a turbo builder.
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Old 03-18-2015, 07:22 AM   #18
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Thanks guys, yea looking at vf46's and seems there is a few small changes with the waste gate location. Is there any modifiing that has to be done in order for it the work correctly??

Well before this all happened wife got into a small fender bender in the front, so I'm thinking it possibly broke or loosened up the cat in the up pipe possibly logging a piece of metal in the exhaust side of turbo. ,Soooo trying to see is this would be covered by insurance for being part of the accident.

Not sure if that will go through but it's a possibility!!

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Old 03-21-2015, 09:21 AM   #19
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I doubt it was the accident but yes the stock cat in the up pipe has been known to disintegrate and blow turbos. Get yourself a catless uppipe. Anything with a flex joint should do. remember if you have the exhaust manifold off. Port and polish does help spool.
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Old 03-26-2015, 10:52 AM   #20
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yea just took the headers off and the uppipe, the cat doesn't look like its trashed or anything but then again im not an expert on them but I see no issues I will try to take a pic and post it.
yea I was looking at catless ones and is it worth spending it on a brand name one or a ebay special! ha

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Old 03-29-2015, 12:29 PM   #21
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So the cat not sure if it's original or if has been replaced what do you guys think? 118k miles on car.
There was a few metal chips/ pieces in the oil pan kinda looks like a barring that broke down.

Cleaned the parts in a parts cleaner the oil pan, oil cooler, oil return tube, and a shield from inside
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Old 03-31-2015, 09:14 AM   #22
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After cleaning
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Old 04-16-2015, 08:57 AM   #23
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Okay so I have purchased most of the items I need for about 1400$ total, most to fix my issue some items as extras.

Spark plugs
Coilpacks
Gaskets and Orings
Thermostat
Upgr8 red coolant hoses
O2 sensor
Avcs sensor
Morroso upgraded oil pickup tube
Catless uppipe (holding off installing till after inspection)
Heat wrap for exhaust manifold (removed heat shields)
Braided oil feed line
Remanufactured vf40 (new chra)
Oil cooler pipe
Oil pressure gauge
Oil filters (6pack using a few to flush oil)
Oil mobile 1
Zerex antifreeze









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Old 04-16-2015, 08:58 AM   #24
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Old 04-16-2015, 10:47 AM   #25
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I am not a pro with subarus by any means, but you have a couple problems that are an issue just judging by your pictures.

First off, you have water/coolant and oil mixing, and a lot of it to cause that much milk. I do not know if its either or, or if you drove through a huge water puddle and pulled a little through the intake, but you obviously are mixing pre turbo and in the oil pan. You are mixing a good amount too, this is not a condensation issue in the case with swinging temps or humidity.

Judging by how much oil you have in your turbo on the compressor side you have quite a bit of blow by out of your CCV. I would do a leak down and compression test on all 4 cylinder to make sure you are ok. That being said I usually route a CCV to atmosphere specifically for this reason. The entire inside of your IC is coated in oil and extremely inefficient with that much oil passing through... is it EPA approved, no, but nothing is EPA approved anymore.

When you put the new turbo in pull that stupid azz screen subaru put in the banjo bolt. Throw that pos away. great idea in theory, idiotic in a common sense approach.

Lastly, whatever the hell is broke apart in you pan belongs somewhere. If those truly are metal bits, then you better find out where they belong. Those are not small pieces, I would find out where they came from before you get a few more miles out of the motor and it implodes. If it's just remenant RTV from assembly, then there shouldn't be anything to worry about. In that one pic you pan looks like its covered in sand/dirt from removal or metal bits.

Best of luck on it...

Last edited by nossliw; 04-16-2015 at 11:15 AM.
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