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Old 09-09-2019, 04:13 PM   #1
BeastianSTI
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Hi everyone,

I've been rocking that stock turbo life for a while now and am getting around to installing an ETS rotated kit on my 05 STi now.

To my surprise, there wasn't any documentation provided, so I've just been trying to figure things out...

I can't seem to get the turbo to line up peacefully with the downpipe and dump tube bracket, so I figured I'd ask people here about the order to install the turbo/exhaust parts.

I called ETS and mentioned my fitment woes and they pointed at the fact that I didn't buy the turbo from them, and that clocking the turbo perfectly would yield a successful install.

Maybe I'm wrong here, but clocking the turbo shouldn't really play any part in the uppipe/downpipe fitment since it's all one part (the tial v-band exhaust housing)...

Anywho - what's your strategy for getting the exhaust components lined up and v-banded together properly?
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Old 09-09-2019, 05:07 PM   #2
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I don't run an ETS kit, but a BNM kit

and getting the V-band exhaust housing on my turbo to mate up to the downpipe is a PITA.

Its much easier if you don't have the catback installed. I had to get the turbo in place just right, and then tighten the V-band on the uppipe to where it had a bit of play.

Then I lifted the downpipe up onto the V-band while my buddy tightened it. once that was tight, I tightened the uppipe V-band.

Not sure I could have done it by myself.
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Old 09-09-2019, 06:11 PM   #3
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kinda off topic but ive been trying to get in touch with BNM for some parts but they haven't respond to my emails lol
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Old 09-09-2019, 06:24 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waddlz View Post
I don't run an ETS kit, but a BNM kit

and getting the V-band exhaust housing on my turbo to mate up to the downpipe is a PITA.

Its much easier if you don't have the catback installed. I had to get the turbo in place just right, and then tighten the V-band on the uppipe to where it had a bit of play.

Then I lifted the downpipe up onto the V-band while my buddy tightened it. once that was tight, I tightened the uppipe V-band.

Not sure I could have done it by myself.
Does their kit's downpipe come in two pieces? Yeah, definitely seems like a PITA. I was thinking v-band would make things easier tbh, but clearly I was wrong

Seems like maybe I need to remove part 1/2 of the downpipe, then get the turbo seated properly on the up pipe, then put the downpipe on and hope it mates up properly down below... Sounds like a two-person job at this point lol. Thanks for sharing your experience!
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Old 09-09-2019, 07:03 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastianSTI View Post
Does their kit's downpipe come in two pieces? Yeah, definitely seems like a PITA. I was thinking v-band would make things easier tbh, but clearly I was wrong

Seems like maybe I need to remove part 1/2 of the downpipe, then get the turbo seated properly on the up pipe, then put the downpipe on and hope it mates up properly down below... Sounds like a two-person job at this point lol. Thanks for sharing your experience!
it is a 2 piece downpipe

I had to take it apart and assemble it once the top part was mated to the turbo.
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Old 09-09-2019, 09:05 PM   #6
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Went out and tried reseating things a bit. Got the uppipe connection sealing a bit better. I wish there was a protrusion on the uppipe to make seating the turbo a bit easier.

Something I noticed though is the vband clamp to the downpipe doesn't seem to want to sit in the groove of the turbo. The turbo <-> downpipe flanges look flush, but the vband clamp itself stands on the turbo exhaust housing a bit. Not sure if that's something to be super concerned about.

Heard a tip in a youtube video to try loosening the uppipe vband clamp while seating things, to make it a bit easier. Thinking about trying that...
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Old 09-09-2019, 10:07 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by BeastianSTI View Post
Went out and tried reseating things a bit. Got the uppipe connection sealing a bit better. I wish there was a protrusion on the uppipe to make seating the turbo a bit easier.

Something I noticed though is the vband clamp to the downpipe doesn't seem to want to sit in the groove of the turbo. The turbo <-> downpipe flanges look flush, but the vband clamp itself stands on the turbo exhaust housing a bit. Not sure if that's something to be super concerned about.

Heard a tip in a youtube video to try loosening the uppipe vband clamp while seating things, to make it a bit easier. Thinking about trying that...
Yeah I had to leave the uppipe vband loose.
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Old 09-09-2019, 10:23 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Waddlz View Post
Yeah I had to leave the uppipe vband loose.
Oh, guess I should have specified: I have a v-band exhaust manifold, so there are two; not sure if yours has an upper and lower v-band clamp. I think they mean the lower one -> headers.
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Old 09-10-2019, 12:04 AM   #9
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I much prefer the t3 uppipe. But any which way you slice it. Everything needs to be mates with clamps or bolts loose. Then tightened when you’ve got it all together.
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Old 09-10-2019, 11:20 AM   #10
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Vbands are great except when they're not.

Even on my system that i custom built to get everything aligned just right... as soon as you take it off you have to find that perfect vband position again to get it back together just right.

They need to make keyed vbands or something.

I ordered some easy to use vband clamps from Stainless Bros. They're basically a sanitary flange type clamp so it's just a slip clamp with a thumb screw. They can be good for holding some parts together temporarily to get other areas lined up with the real clamps.

Do they build their system for tial turbine housings? I think they're different than the garret housings.
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Old 09-10-2019, 11:25 AM   #11
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ETS 30R kit on my '05 as well, V-band everything. LEAVE EVERYTHING LOOSE!!! Until everything is roughly starting to line-up with each other.

Leave the up-pipe to turbo loose so you can still rotate the turbo on the V-band so that the DP will line up with the exhaust, again leaving all DP V-bands loose!
Then install wastegate, leaving both v-bands loose so you can still rotate it if needed.
Install upper half of DP, keeping the lower half within reach to ensure it still lines up with the exhaust. Once the upper half is tightened down keep rotating the wastegate and dumptube until the bracket eventually lines up, just keep at it.
Install lower half of DP. Done.



Cliffnotes: keep everything loose until the component downstream lines-up.
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Old 09-10-2019, 06:43 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BootsJunkie View Post
ETS 30R kit on my '05 as well, V-band everything. LEAVE EVERYTHING LOOSE!!! Until everything is roughly starting to line-up with each other.

Leave the up-pipe to turbo loose so you can still rotate the turbo on the V-band so that the DP will line up with the exhaust, again leaving all DP V-bands loose!
Then install wastegate, leaving both v-bands loose so you can still rotate it if needed.
Install upper half of DP, keeping the lower half within reach to ensure it still lines up with the exhaust. Once the upper half is tightened down keep rotating the wastegate and dumptube until the bracket eventually lines up, just keep at it.
Install lower half of DP. Done.


Cliffnotes: keep everything loose until the component downstream lines-up.

Yes! Thanks a ton for putting this together. Followed this today and managed to get things pretty well aligned. Also ended up clocking the turbo 5* to get the drain turbo to fit better; I think that was holding things up a bit.

Couldn't seem to get the downpipe and the dump tube to mount together, but i'm not too worried about it. I'll prolly just put a SS zip tie on it and call it a day.

Do you have their rotated FMIC too? Trying to figure out where these pipes are supposed to fit up ... not really making sense lol

Also seems like I might have to cut the radiator fan shroud, for the drivers side pipe to pop through
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Old 09-10-2019, 08:23 PM   #13
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To add more context, here are some pics.

Pic of where I'm thinking one of these pipes goes up through (drivers side):

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1EA...9R4tRUrqCnBzzX

Pic of the main intercooler pipes in question:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=16Y...8jt-L-FslCIzNO
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Old 09-11-2019, 09:52 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastianSTI View Post
Yes! Thanks a ton for putting this together. Followed this today and managed to get things pretty well aligned. Also ended up clocking the turbo 5* to get the drain turbo to fit better; I think that was holding things up a bit.

Couldn't seem to get the downpipe and the dump tube to mount together, but i'm not too worried about it. I'll prolly just put a SS zip tie on it and call it a day.

Do you have their rotated FMIC too? Trying to figure out where these pipes are supposed to fit up ... not really making sense lol

Also seems like I might have to cut the radiator fan shroud, for the drivers side pipe to pop through


Nahh I have the TurboXS front mount kit, which was on the car when I got it.
You'll DEF need to trim the fan shrouds to fit that ~2"dia tubing, exactly where your dotted lines are. Once you get the IC mounted it should start falling into place.

The pipe all the way on the right in your pic is most likely the 1st cold side pipe coming outta the IC, ending right next to the battery. Here's mine, FOR REFERENCE
https://i.imgur.com/Snfvmxu.jpg


The pipe all the way on the left in your pic is most likely the one that hides in your passenger side fender, connecting to the inlet of the IC.
FOR ME I have a hodge-podge of pipes and couplers connecting this pipe to the turbo, since I needed to slightly butcher my TXS FMIC piping kit, but got it to work. Since you have both the ETS turbo and FMIC kits it should be much simpler for you.
*edit* I'm guessing the pipe in the middle of your pic is what connects your turbo to the pass side fender pipe.

Also looking @ ETS' site looks like there's 5 pipes total- are you simply not showing the other 2? The one with the flange is obviously for the BOV and connects to your TB.
*edit* now I see it was only those 3 that were in question.

Last edited by BootsJunkie; 09-11-2019 at 12:11 PM.
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Old 09-11-2019, 02:29 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BootsJunkie View Post
Nahh I have the TurboXS front mount kit, which was on the car when I got it.
You'll DEF need to trim the fan shrouds to fit that ~2"dia tubing, exactly where your dotted lines are. Once you get the IC mounted it should start falling into place.

The pipe all the way on the right in your pic is most likely the 1st cold side pipe coming outta the IC, ending right next to the battery. Here's mine, FOR REFERENCE
https://i.imgur.com/Snfvmxu.jpg


The pipe all the way on the left in your pic is most likely the one that hides in your passenger side fender, connecting to the inlet of the IC.
FOR ME I have a hodge-podge of pipes and couplers connecting this pipe to the turbo, since I needed to slightly butcher my TXS FMIC piping kit, but got it to work. Since you have both the ETS turbo and FMIC kits it should be much simpler for you.
*edit* I'm guessing the pipe in the middle of your pic is what connects your turbo to the pass side fender pipe.

Also looking @ ETS' site looks like there's 5 pipes total- are you simply not showing the other 2? The one with the flange is obviously for the BOV and connects to your TB.
*edit* now I see it was only those 3 that were in question.
Ah ok - perfect. Looks like the radiator needs to come out then to cut the shroud! Glad I didn't fill up on coolant yet LOL.

I managed to get the passenger side pipes on last night

Thanks for the thoughtful response!!

I just realized that the IAT bung is a different size than the sensor I bought. I bought the 1/8" AEM sensor (30-2014) but it looks like the ETS kit comes with a 3/8" bung.

Curious if using a reducer like so would cause any issues with air temp reading. The sensor won't be quite as far into the pipe now. Still searching for a flush mount adapter but no luck.

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Old 12-15-2019, 10:31 AM   #16
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Well, I've started off with a base map after getting the car running. Started hearing a lot of popping and crackling off throttle so I did a smoke test. Almost every v band connection is leaking.

Tried isolating each component (installed just the up pipe and smoke tested it) but still am getting leaks. It was pretty difficult to get the up pipe to line up with the ETS exhaust manifold.

I've tried to do everything with this build myself since I've been bit in the past by shop, but at this point it seems like I'm going to have to let someone else do it.

I'd suggest for any DIY people out there ... Not to get v band components as it's a massive PITA.
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Old 12-15-2019, 10:37 AM   #17
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Also worth mentioning that I've been talking with ETS tech support and they said the reason they don't give out any instructions/recommendations is for liability reasons. I get it to an extent, but when nothing has a clear orientation, feels very difficult to clamp things down in the exact way that they mocked the components up in their fab shop.

I've literally spent 8 hours over the past two weeks tinkering with this lol.

I bought a higher quality v band clamp for the downpipe to turbo connection, and with some copper gasket I was able to get that to seal.

Now the manifold to up pipe and downpipe pt 1 -> pt 2 leaks all day. Feeling pretty defeated. I can build a motor just fine, but apparently this isn't in my skillset haha.
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Old 12-15-2019, 11:51 AM   #18
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you know the problem with these premade kits is sometimes the jigs get a little out of wack or they are off like a couple of mm and they dont fit all that great.
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Old 12-15-2019, 02:18 PM   #19
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you know the problem with these premade kits is sometimes the jigs get a little out of wack or they are off like a couple of mm and they dont fit all that great.
Yeah, that could make sense. I'm not sure exactly how they're made but I assume with an example car. Not sure if the kit is off or if I'm missing something (clocking, etc.).

My kit had the wrong coolant overflow bracket so now everything is in question in my mind haha.

Downpipe and dump tube brackets still don't line up roughly either.
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Old 12-16-2019, 07:55 AM   #20
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Fussed with it one last time yesterday, very patiently. Tightened clamps from the front of the system to the back, knocking each clamp with a hammer, tightened, over and over until the clamp didn't appear to loosen from tightening.

Also put dry film lubricant on the inside of each clamp.

Did a smoke test and it would appear there are no leaks. The dump tube bracket is still off though, by a few mm. I'm just going to leave it as is lol.
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Old 11-27-2020, 01:59 PM   #21
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Welp .. reviving this from the dead. Had a shop work on the car and ended up with a nasty downpipe to turbo leak again.

I've got everything apart now.

Should I tighten the vband header to up pipe first, or does that fall into the "leave everything loose" statement as well? It seems like that connection dramatically alters the downpipe alignment to the mid pipe.
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Old 11-30-2020, 12:58 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by BeastianSTI View Post
Fussed with it one last time yesterday, very patiently. Tightened clamps from the front of the system to the back, knocking each clamp with a hammer, tightened, over and over until the clamp didn't appear to loosen from tightening.

Also put dry film lubricant on the inside of each clamp.

Did a smoke test and it would appear there are no leaks. The dump tube bracket is still off though, by a few mm. I'm just going to leave it as is lol.
Yea my dump tube brackets are off by a couple mm too, they don't sit perfectly flush with each other. Luckily that nut is a ny-lock so I don't completely torque it down, for fear of cracking the bracket welds.



Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastianSTI View Post
Welp .. reviving this from the dead. Had a shop work on the car and ended up with a nasty downpipe to turbo leak again.

I've got everything apart now.

Should I tighten the vband header to up pipe first, or does that fall into the "leave everything loose" statement as well? It seems like that connection dramatically alters the downpipe alignment to the mid pipe.

Ahh I still have the 2-bolt up-pipe, which automatically locates the turbo's position.
If you think about it, before you tighten the header/up-pipe V-band clamp, the up-pipe can still "swivel" on the v-band flanges. Even if it's only off 1* down there, that distance is magnified over the length of the up-pipe, to the point where the turbo's location could be a couple inches off. If the turbo is off a couple inches..... obviously the DP aint fitting.

Which begs the question; the bracket that uses the 2 bell-housing bolts to secure it to the tranny (circled), also uses 2 bolts to secure it to the up-pipe bracket, are you using that tranny bracket?
https://imgur.com/a/y6ddGqb
Because if you are, that should VERY closely locate the up-pipe into it's final position.
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Old 12-02-2020, 11:21 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BootsJunkie View Post
Yea my dump tube brackets are off by a couple mm too, they don't sit perfectly flush with each other. Luckily that nut is a ny-lock so I don't completely torque it down, for fear of cracking the bracket welds.






Ahh I still have the 2-bolt up-pipe, which automatically locates the turbo's position.
If you think about it, before you tighten the header/up-pipe V-band clamp, the up-pipe can still "swivel" on the v-band flanges. Even if it's only off 1* down there, that distance is magnified over the length of the up-pipe, to the point where the turbo's location could be a couple inches off. If the turbo is off a couple inches..... obviously the DP aint fitting.

Which begs the question; the bracket that uses the 2 bell-housing bolts to secure it to the tranny (circled), also uses 2 bolts to secure it to the up-pipe bracket, are you using that tranny bracket?
https://imgur.com/a/y6ddGqb
Because if you are, that should VERY closely locate the up-pipe into it's final position.
Yessir - I'm using that transmission bracket, but surprisingly, while that's loose there's a lot of play in the up pipe. In other words, it doesn't put the up pipe into the perfect position. What's more is that there are 2 bolts from the up pipe to that tranny bracket, causing more room for error.


What I've tried:

1. Leave up pipe -> headers loose and tried to get the rest of the exhaust line up. The problem was then getting the up pipe to headers to seat correctly. Once all the components are on (turbo, downpipe part 1 & 2) I can't get the uppipe<-> header to seat properly. Too much weight!

2. Install up pipe -> headers, tighten it down in a good spot, and then tighten the tranny bracket. Obviously, this makes it hard to line things up downstream b/c of the point you made.


I've seen some videos where someone has said to just put the up pipe on, clamp it down w/ the bracket and voila, everything will be good (but this was on a 15+ STi where the downpipe doesn't have such a weird angle).

That approach didn't work for me.

It sounds like you HAVE to leave the up pipe -> headers loose and pray you can get it in the right spot with everything else on loose.
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Old 12-02-2020, 01:43 PM   #24
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I'm in the process of installing my ETS 2 Bolt kit and intercooler. I'm just in the process of mockup so I can decide where to mount my AOS and run custom fuel lines. I also need to get a cat installed so I need to figure out the best spot for that. Thanks for all the info. I'll let you know if I find any tricks that work.
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Old 12-02-2020, 01:50 PM   #25
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I'm in the process of installing my ETS 2 Bolt kit and intercooler. I'm just in the process of mockup so I can decide where to mount my AOS and run custom fuel lines. I also need to get a cat installed so I need to figure out the best spot for that. Thanks for all the info. I'll let you know if I find any tricks that work.
I'd imagine the two-bolt kit would be much easier since it takes the up-pipe orientation out of the equation. Wish I could have gone that route. Good luck!
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