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![]() Brakes & Suspension Forum sponsored by The Tire Rack |
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#176 |
Former Vendor
Member#: 125739
Join Date: Sep 2006
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Raleigh, NC
Vehicle:2007 1500HD Need Brakes? 919.420.0021 |
![]() Hawk 5.0 pads are more expensive.
Initial bite I would say is similar, Hawk has more linear bite. Dust is less with the 5.0 pads. I had the STSP pads on my car as well, I enjoyed having them on the car. I didn't mind the dust, they did have a great initial bite, but they were lackluster with linear brake modulation. Life is about right, I got 30K out of the front STSP pads. Tried Hawk HP+, then went to the Hawk Street/Race and now back to HP+. -Nick
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#177 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 38648
Join Date: Jun 2003
Chapter/Region:
BAIC
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Vehicle:2006 Forester XT Silver |
![]() Front and Rear Suspension –
1. A-Arms a. Subaru STi, rubber bushings removed and black powder coated prevent corrosion) b. Bushings - Poly-carbon, except the large A-Arm bushings c. Perrin PSRS large A-Arm bushings (Positive Steering Response System) i. Note: Perrin provides six 4 inch bolts for installation. The FXT requires the front bolt next to the A-arm on each side to be 4.5 inches long. (I purchased these from a supplier) d. H&R Camber Bolts (From Perrin) 2. GTSpec Front Roll Center Adjustment Kit a. Bearings b. Tie Rods i. These are super heavy duty and are designed to handle lowered suspensions. 3. Struts and Springs a. Tien Basis for Forester STi (Japan) i. Tien Japan website, shipped from Japan. N/A from Tien US ii. Includes everything, including top mounts and silencing rubber. 4. Front Suspension Tower Bar a. Perrin i. This will clear the STi and other aftermarket TMIC’s ii. I split about 6 inches of a ½ inch black rubber hose and used plumber ties to insulate and secure the A/C line to the tower bar. This prevents rubbing and vibration/rattling between these two items. 5. Sway Bars and Links, Front and Rear a. Perrin i. Front bar is 25 millimeter ii. Rear bar is 22 millimeter 1. Perrin Stout Mounts. a. Unless you lower the vehicle, the Stout Mounts will NOT FIT the FXT without the bar being at an extreme upward angle to the wheel mounting links. Perrin fabricated a special set as a project for me. I had these black anodized. iii. Front and rear links are the polyurethane version. Best for street vehicles. Modified Stout Mounts 6. Rear Trailing Arms a. Godspeed with bronze lining pillow ball i. Powder coated black. The original red powder coating was of poor quality, but the construction of the part is good, although heavier than the OEM. 7. Lateral Links a. Agency Power clear anodized i. Poly-carbon bushings 8. Front & Rear Brakes and Lines a. 2005 STi Brembo Gold 4/2 pot i. Rebuilt by Goldline Brakes 1. Black polymer paint ii. Super Graphics F1- http://www.supergraphicsf1.com/Brakes-Subaru.htm 1. These are the best I have found. I got them in white using the current STi font. iii. Goodyear stainless lines iv. P.Mu Project Mu NS 400 brake pads v. DBA two piece front and single piece rear rotors 1. The rear rotors are the STi diameter/WRX parking brake model Front Brembo 9. Front & Rear Wheel Hubs and Bearings a. Dorman Front & Rear Hubs i. Looked better than the OEM in quality when compared at installation b. H&R 5mm aluminum/titanium spacers and wheel studs (to clear Brembo’s) i. H&R spacers reference off the hub not the stud/lug nut (stops balance issues) c. Subaru rear wheel bearings (packed with additional Subaru grease 10. Rear Caliper Adapter Kit a. Fastwrx.com, anodized aluminum (Black – Very well made BTW) 11. OEM parking brakes a. New OEM everything 12. Rear Wheel Bearing Housing and Backing Plate (Splash guard) a. New OEM (WRX) housing b. New OEM (WRX) backing plate (See notes below) The rear Brembo conversion needs some explanation. I researched this ad nausea. First, in pricing replacing OEM wheel bearings on the car vs. buying discounted new Subaru parts, the costs were about the same. Assembling everything off the car provides some additional options. Since so much was changing in the suspension anyway, I decided to go new bearings and hubs I found a blog which referenced using 2005 STi backing plates on the WRX/FXT rear bearing housing doing the job “right”. (Name withheld to protect the guilty.) Their claim was, no bending, no adapter kit and they should bolt right up. NOT. The STi backing plates have a bolt hole alignment issue. Even though the hub bolt pattern is 5x100, the housing and the bearing OD is significantly larger and bolt locations in different positions. This is translated to the U-joints and axle parts, (and probably the differential) which are also larger. Fortunately, I was able to exchange the 2005 STi backing plates for 2006 FXT plates. The best part of all this is the ability to cut or bend the backing plates off the car. Then you can strip the paint off and repaint the entire backing plate. (I used VHT flat black suspension paint, 250 F). VHT also makes a caliper paint stripping spray, which does a nice job of paint removal and preparation. This should prevent rusting at the bends or cut off edge of the backing plates. Last edited by 4ister; 06-04-2015 at 03:32 PM. Reason: Indents |
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#178 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 423328
Join Date: Jun 2015
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Oregon
Vehicle:2005 WRX OBP |
![]() slotted vs drilled?
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#179 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 38648
Join Date: Jun 2003
Chapter/Region:
BAIC
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Vehicle:2006 Forester XT Silver |
![]() DBA is both. The slots are not full length radial cuts. So they don't reduce the friction surface a lot, but do get the job done for their intended purpose. I tried posting pics with the write-up, but no joy.
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#180 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 426995
Join Date: Jul 2015
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![]() Hi i have a 2010 STI with 6 piston calipers.Need to replace the pads.Any suggestions on what pad to use and where can i get them from
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#181 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 165749
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Detroit, MF'er!
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![]() OEM from the dealer or your Subaru parts supplier of choice.
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#182 |
Former Vendor
Member#: 125739
Join Date: Sep 2006
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Raleigh, NC
Vehicle:2007 1500HD Need Brakes? 919.420.0021 |
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#183 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 426995
Join Date: Jul 2015
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![]() yes it is a 6 piston caliper as mine is a R205 and the caliper is long
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#184 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 38648
Join Date: Jun 2003
Chapter/Region:
BAIC
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Vehicle:2006 Forester XT Silver |
![]() Quote:
Look them up, they are a Japanese Company. US they are handled by http://www.mackin-ind.com/project-mu-brake-pads/ |
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#185 | |
Former Vendor
Member#: 125739
Join Date: Sep 2006
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Raleigh, NC
Vehicle:2007 1500HD Need Brakes? 919.420.0021 |
![]() Quote:
Ken |
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#186 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 355960
Join Date: May 2013
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Vehicle:2011 WRX DGM |
![]() Can anybody help me with a link for what shims go where on rear pads for an '11 WRX?
I'd swear I have more shims than pads. |
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#187 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 423113
Join Date: Jun 2015
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![]() Hi, I was looking for an upgrade from the OEM brake pads on a 2013 Impreza Sport 5dr. Any suggestions? (I would rather them be long lasting and reasonably quiet, had a bad experience with track pads on another car that sounded like a train stopping at low speeds. Dust is not a problem, really dont mind, I wash my car on the regular)
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#188 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 382191
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: CO
Vehicle:2006 WRX TR WRB |
![]() Quote:
Otherwise, you may get mixed responses. I recommend Stoptech Street performance pads, if they offer them for your model. However, you will NEED to be hard on them regularly so to reduce deposit build-up. Otherwise, OEM or stoptech/centric posiquiets. |
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#189 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 38648
Join Date: Jun 2003
Chapter/Region:
BAIC
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Vehicle:2006 Forester XT Silver |
![]() Look up Powerstop. http://www.powerstop.com/
I have a front and rear set of pads from them which fits a stock 06 FXT but I don't know if they would fit your vehicle. I have used both rotors and pads from them. Worked just fine, good performance, low dust NO SQUEEK ever. |
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#190 | |
Former Vendor
Member#: 125739
Join Date: Sep 2006
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Raleigh, NC
Vehicle:2007 1500HD Need Brakes? 919.420.0021 |
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Haven't had issues with noise on WRX's, Imprezas, etc. Only had issues with STI Brembo calipers. -Nick |
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#191 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 423113
Join Date: Jun 2015
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![]() thanks for the information
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#192 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 423113
Join Date: Jun 2015
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#193 | |
Former Vendor
Member#: 125739
Join Date: Sep 2006
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Raleigh, NC
Vehicle:2007 1500HD Need Brakes? 919.420.0021 |
![]() Quote:
If the rotors are out of spec, it'll be best to replace them. -Nick |
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#194 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 423113
Join Date: Jun 2015
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![]() Quote:
Do you happen to know the specs for thickness on the rotors? |
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#195 |
Former Vendor
Member#: 125739
Join Date: Sep 2006
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Raleigh, NC
Vehicle:2007 1500HD Need Brakes? 919.420.0021 |
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#196 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 418882
Join Date: Apr 2015
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![]() I have a 2007 wrx and I just bought a set of new rotors and pads for my car. I've seen how to replace the pads on the red front calipers but I can't find anything about how to pull the calipers to put the new rotors on if anyone has info that would help alot. I've done rotor swaps om other cars but this is my first subaru
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#197 | |
Former Vendor
Member#: 125739
Join Date: Sep 2006
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Raleigh, NC
Vehicle:2007 1500HD Need Brakes? 919.420.0021 |
![]() Quote:
There are two bolts on the back of the calipers, remove them, pull caliper off the knuckle. Support the caliper as not to break the brake line hose. Pretty much the same way you did your other cars. -Nick |
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#198 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 229903
Join Date: Nov 2009
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#199 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 229903
Join Date: Nov 2009
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I just bought a set of GTR35 CL pads and grind 7mm from bottom part. It was easy.Have both pads scan,address if you need to compare. |
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#200 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 434189
Join Date: Nov 2015
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![]() I have had unusual/uneven break wear on my 09 STI from day 1. I don't drive the car much so its not been a priority. I decided to do a caliper rebuild. The LF wheel is the problem. The two 40mm pistons and one of the two 46mm pistons slide nicely into the cylinder. The fourth piston appears to **** as it approaches the seal. I am going to a local machine shop to get the cylinder measured above and below the seal for diameter, out of round, and to see if for some reason above and below the seal are not in line.
Does anyone know the maximum tolerance for the piston seal to work properly in case I have to take material out of the cylinder? I know it will be greater than 46MM but I can not find it anywhere online. |
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