Engines out, Ready to back in but some questions - Fuel Injector/Rail Cover Removal

[Booki]

Currently have my engine out of my MY09 Forester, did some major work - New Sti short block, reco'd heads, new hoses, catch can plumbed, silicone turbo inlet, TGV Deletes, Air Pump Delete, Throttle body coolant bypass, ARP Head Studs, FelPro Permaseal head gaskets + all new Gaskets, timing belt and water pump.

Reused the current VF52 turbo that was on there - Whats the next jump in turbo's I can go without upgrading Injectors/Fuel Pump/Intercooler and keeping it reliable with the sti bottom end?

Hoping to have a solid car for a while!

Now I have it all assembled, and a couple of questions.

I was planning on keeping the fuel injector cover/metal bracket off, is there any downsides to this?
It seems just to be in the way. The only downside that I have noticed is that a grounding wire connected to it - but I have placed it on the TGV's itself as the wire reached there fine.

I am aware that the coolant expansion tank will not have a bolt holding it, but it should be solid enough with just the rubber mounts holding onto the intake manifold.

I doubt it will impact anything but keen for anybodies thoughts on it

Here are some pics

https://imgur.com/a/nAmPQ

Hoping to have it in the car tomorrow!

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[4ister]

Originally Posted by Booki

Currently have my engine out of my MY09 Forester, did some major work - New Sti short block, reco'd heads, new hoses, catch can plumbed, silicone turbo inlet, TGV Deletes, Air Pump Delete, Throttle body coolant bypass, ARP Head Studs, FelPro Permaseal head gaskets + all new Gaskets, timing belt and water pump.

Reused the current VF52 turbo that was on there - Whats the next jump in turbo's I can go without upgrading Injectors/Fuel Pump/Intercooler and keeping it reliable with the sti bottom end?

Hoping to have a solid car for a while!

Now I have it all assembled, and a couple of questions.

I was planning on keeping the fuel injector cover/metal bracket off, is there any downsides to this?
It seems just to be in the way. The only downside that I have noticed is that a grounding wire connected to it - but I have placed it on the TGV's itself as the wire reached there fine.

I am aware that the coolant expansion tank will not have a bolt holding it, but it should be solid enough with just the rubber mounts holding onto the intake manifold.

I doubt it will impact anything but keen for anybodies thoughts on it

Here are some pics

https://imgur.com/a/nAmPQ

Hoping to have it in the car tomorrow!

You don't realize what that shield is for. It's in the car as part of an accident crash requirement. It protects the injectors when the car folds up. Are you sticking with the stock plumbing to the injectors? What caused the original block to go south? It is common for number 4 cylinder in particular to run lean. Especially with the stock fuel system. I would go to a parallel fuel system.
Is your expansion tank metal or that plastic stuff? If it's plastic then holding it with only the little rubber things meems you're going to get very wet tan
failure.

[Booki]

Originally Posted by 4ister

You don't realize what that shield is for. It's in the car as part of an accident crash requirement. It protects the injectors when the car folds up. Are you sticking with the stock plumbing to the injectors? What caused the original block to go south? It is common for number 4 cylinder in particular to run lean. Especially with the stock fuel system. I would go to a parallel fuel system.
Is your expansion tank metal or that plastic stuff? If it's plastic then holding it with only the little rubber things meems you're going to get very wet tan
failure.

Its all stock plumbing to the injectors, didn't know it was for crash protection.

Original block sealing surface is warped a little out of spec, and being 200,000km old pulling it apart would probably lead to most items being out of spec so opted for a brand new block from subaru.

Plastic Expansion tank

Had no idea about the Stock fuel system vs parallel fuel system. If I knew about it sooner I might have incorporated it into my build, but not looking to run a built bottom end so hoping the stock fuel delivery system will be fine.

[viper_crazy]

Originally Posted by Booki

Reused the current VF52 turbo that was on there - Whats the next jump in turbo's I can go without upgrading Injectors/Fuel Pump/Intercooler and keeping it reliable with the sti bottom end?

That depends how much boost you want to run. 10 psi on a small turbo is different than 10 psi on a big turbo. It all has to do with the AMOUNT and VELOCITY (how fast the air is flowing inside the intake) of air. A bigger turbo basically flows more air so more air is being shoved past the intake valves. A change in the amount of air is gonna require a tune. How big can you go before maxing out stock injectors? About VF52.... You NEED a tune with a turbo swap (unless the turbo is another VF52).

Originally Posted by Booki

I was planning on keeping the fuel injector cover/metal bracket off, is there any downsides to this?
It seems just to be in the way. The only downside that I have noticed is that a grounding wire connected to it - but I have placed it on the TGV's itself as the wire reached there fine.

If you plan on upgrading injectors in the future, they will be in the way. They're a "yuge" pain in the butt to remove.

Originally Posted by Booki

I am aware that the coolant expansion tank will not have a bolt holding it, but it should be solid enough with just the rubber mounts holding onto the intake manifold.

I doubt it will impact anything but keen for anybodies thoughts on it

It will be fine. Lots of people run it like that for years without any ill effects. I have.

Originally Posted by Booki

Its all stock plumbing to the injectors, didn't know it was for crash protection.

I'm not how how much crash protection these things offer, to be honest. The metal isn't really that strong. They were set in place, obviously, as a protective barrier for whatever projectile might happen to be hurtling at your injectors...

Originally Posted by Booki

Had no idea about the Stock fuel system vs parallel fuel system. If I knew about it sooner I might have incorporated it into my build, but not looking to run a built bottom end so hoping the stock fuel delivery system will be fine.

It's fine if you're running stock power and fuel flow. If you're fixing to go with big power, say upwards of 400hp, then you might want to consider changing things up. Many cars have run the stock series system for many years without any ill effects.

As to the reasons for cylinder 4 failures, there are many *opinions* and factors that may lead to it, but I have not been able to locate any definitive proof that any single thing is the leading or major cause.

[Booki]

Ripper - This lines up with my thinking as well.

Cars been etuned by Eric previously with my VF52, have got a no boost map ready to go to make sure the run in goes smoothly.

[Booki]

The only thing that slightly worries me is the grounding strap placed on the TGV's instead of the block/head.

Do you think it would matter?

[viper_crazy]

Originally Posted by Booki

The only thing that slightly worries me is the grounding strap placed on the TGV's instead of the block/head.

Do you think it would matter?

Are they the stock/metal ones? If so, it will be fine. It's grounded.

If they're aftermarket phenolic (aka "plastic") TGV, then I used one of the TGV bolts to secure that as those bolts screw into the head, providing a good ground.

You may opt to try and extend that cable to another ground on the motor, if you wish.

[Booki]

Stock TGVs that have been gutted and fitted with the kstech blanking plate kit.

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[viper_crazy]

Originally Posted by Booki

Stock TGVs that have been gutted and fitted with the kstech blanking plate kit.

I had mine bolted to the metal ones when I gutted those ones. No issues at all, considering the injector guards are bolted to the factory TGV's.

[Booki]

Hoping to have it fired up tomorrow - Whats the best way to crank the engine over so it doesn't start? (To build up oil pressure before first start)

[viper_crazy]

Pull the fuel pump fuse and/or relay. That way the pump doesn't prime the fuel system when you turn over the key.

[viper_crazy]

On some vehicles (not necessarily Subaru's, although once my WRX continued to run after I pulled the fuse while it was running and didn't stall out until I tried revving the engine), there's been known to have enough vacuum in the intake that the fuel has been sucked through the injectors. I don't think there'd be enough vacuum at turn over, just if you did that while it was running. So, in addition to the fuse and relay, you could leave the fuel feed line disconnected while you do your oil system prime.

[Booki]

I have read that unplugging the fuel injectors and crank sensor should do the trick.

Fuel pump fuse is a good idea too!

[viper_crazy]

Yup, that will do the trick, too. Was gonna mention that and forgot.

[Booki]

To be extra safe I can just unplug the coil packs as well!