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Old 07-17-2018, 10:02 PM   #1
CarmelValleyWRX
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Default opinions on rebuilding an outback 2.5i engine.

so my parents have a 2005 outback that drinks oil. it ran out of oil (only briefly and oil was poured in right away when the light came on) and now has a light rod knock and had metal in the oil after the running out incident. my sister has been driving it for a while with the engine messed up so its not THAT broken. we cant find any JDM engines or used engines that are plug and play. im thinking we just throw some new bearings and rockauto pistons in it, lap the valves, wash the metal out and throw it back together with new gaskets. would it last another 10k? 50k?

i will measure all the journals and bores and oil pump. hopefully the crank is ok.
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Old 07-18-2018, 02:51 AM   #2
CosmoTheCat
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The light should be considered "you done messed up", not "hey add oil please". It only comes on at something ridiculous like 3-4 psi of oil pressure (or less), which basically means you're pumping air.

You'll want to tear that sucker down and flush all the metal out of the oil passages, the heads, the cams, and everything else.

Look harder for an engine. Took about 30 seconds to find dozens of them. www.car-part.com
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Old 07-18-2018, 01:53 PM   #3
CarmelValleyWRX
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yea i know its bad... luckily its not my car luckily sister knew to stop the engine and add any oil she had. i always told her it was not a low level light, its a no pressure light. i know there are lots of ej25 out there but it needs to have EGR and other CA crap because it has to pass smog here. and the 05 is a one year only setup because they went to variable valve lift in the later ones. i have searched alot. there are ej20 from japan, and old school 2.5 that say they will fit (which they will) but dont have the right setup for this car. i pretty much have to use the heads off the original motor so hopefully they are not trashed too bad. if we did not have to pass smog it would be a slam dunk. i would just delete everything and reflash it with tactrix.

Last edited by CarmelValleyWRX; 07-18-2018 at 02:01 PM.
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Old 07-19-2018, 04:05 AM   #4
CosmoTheCat
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What's different about the block and heads? EGR isn't really that big of a deal, take the new and old head to a machine shop and have them drill and tap to match.

Other than that, what's different? Exhaust and programming? Swap over the intake manifold and whatever sensors, right? I'm definitely not the expert on what's different between emission packages though.
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Old 07-19-2018, 06:53 PM   #5
wtdash
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Want to try something?
Here's an EGR work-around for the earlier versions..

Re-route the existing EGR pipe as noted in the above link, and block off the existing head port. Have Sis drive it for a few more days to see if it throws a code.

I do not know if your CA smog-checkers look that hard @ the engine? But if they see the EGR pipe NOT connected to the head obviously this is a 'no go'.
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Old 07-19-2018, 07:46 PM   #6
CarmelValleyWRX
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me and my dad pulled the motor out and tore it down today. only took us 2.5 hours to get it from a running car to a crankshaft sitting on the floor the #1 and #4 rods are pretty toasted but they did not destroy the crank or spin in the rods. the oil rings were are totally gummed up and stuck. that's why it had an oil consumption issue. i will bust out the micrometers and bore gauge and get to work.
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Old 07-19-2018, 07:50 PM   #7
CarmelValleyWRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wtdash View Post
Want to try something?
Here's an EGR work-around for the earlier versions..

Re-route the existing EGR pipe as noted in the above link, and block off the existing head port. Have Sis drive it for a few more days to see if it throws a code.

I do not know if your CA smog-checkers look that hard @ the engine? But if they see the EGR pipe NOT connected to the head obviously this is a 'no go'.

thats the old style motor from the 90s. i have a 2005.
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