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Old 06-24-2004, 02:24 PM   #51
ride5000
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i should think that the elimination of the abc would work towards decreasing the variations of boost levels with weather conditions. in my experience, this is one of the primary weaknesses of bleeders.

fwiw, i think your reasoning is sound, mick.

ken
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Old 06-24-2004, 08:28 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally posted by ride5000
i should think that the elimination of the abc would work towards decreasing the variations of boost levels with weather conditions. in my experience, this is one of the primary weaknesses of bleeders.

fwiw, i think your reasoning is sound, mick.

ken
That is something I was thinking too. Just thought it sounded crazy.

TMS
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Old 06-24-2004, 10:46 PM   #53
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I just installed the GM solonoid with the pigtail. I replaced all the factory hoses with new vacuum lines because I didn't want to hack them up. I reset the ECU with DD, and then went for some easy driving and saw no PTB and nice even boost at anything short of full throttle. Then I set up DD for a logging run in third gear. Not so nice. I saw the boost gauge peg (I have a 20 psi Autometer) then drop to about 15, then peg again and so on. This happened so fast DD missed most of the spikes, but did show 36.1 psi absolute. Got more knock then I ever want again too.

So at first I thought I got the two outlet ports reversed, but that didn't make any sense because I saw no PTB. Then I realised that I had removed the factory brass restrictor. So I put the restrictor in line just before the solonoid inlet. I went for a drive again, and no more spiking. My boost is still going off range on my gauge though. I will have to do some more logging.

(I have a KingPin Ecutek stage 4 flash for 94 octane, VF34, TXS turboback, Vishnu UP, STi pinks etc.)

[edit. I was still in fact getting oscillation with this config.]

Last edited by fragment; 07-12-2004 at 06:12 PM.
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Old 06-25-2004, 03:04 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally posted by fragment
I just installed the GM solonoid with the pigtail. I replaced all the factory hoses with new vacuum lines because I didn't want to hack them up. I reset the ECU with DD, and then went for some easy driving and saw no PTB and nice even boost at anything short of full throttle. Then I set up DD for a logging run in third gear. Not so nice. I saw the boost gauge peg (I have a 20 psi Autometer) then drop to about 15, then peg again and so on. This happened so fast DD missed most of the spikes, but did show 36.1 psi absolute. Got more knock then I ever want again too.

So at first I thought I got the two outlet ports reversed, but that didn't make any sense because I saw no PTB. Then I realised that I had removed the factory brass restrictor. So I put the restrictor in line just before the solonoid inlet. I went for a drive again, and no more spiking. My boost is still going off range on my gauge though. I will have to do some more logging.

(I have a KingPin Ecutek stage 4 flash for 94 octane, VF34, TXS turboback, Vishnu UP, STi pinks etc.)
Are you using the resistor as well?
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Old 06-25-2004, 03:51 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally posted by fragment
I just installed the GM solonoid with the pigtail. I replaced all the factory hoses with new vacuum lines because I didn't want to hack them up. I reset the ECU with DD, and then went for some easy driving and saw no PTB and nice even boost at anything short of full throttle. Then I set up DD for a logging run in third gear. Not so nice. I saw the boost gauge peg (I have a 20 psi Autometer) then drop to about 15, then peg again and so on. This happened so fast DD missed most of the spikes, but did show 36.1 psi absolute. Got more knock then I ever want again too.

So at first I thought I got the two outlet ports reversed, but that didn't make any sense because I saw no PTB. Then I realised that I had removed the factory brass restrictor. So I put the restrictor in line just before the solonoid inlet. I went for a drive again, and no more spiking. My boost is still going off range on my gauge though. I will have to do some more logging.

(I have a KingPin Ecutek stage 4 flash for 94 octane, VF34, TXS turboback, Vishnu UP, STi pinks etc.)
From my tests it seems like you always need the small restrictor.

Maybe your ECU just needs a little time to work out the duty cycles required to now control the boost. 36 absolute, that's only 22 psi gauge right....
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Old 06-25-2004, 04:10 AM   #56
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I removed my restrictor from the beginning. I forget what it does - prevent spikes? If so, then you dont need from what ive seen, no spiking what so ever, just nice smooth curves.

- chris
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Old 06-25-2004, 05:27 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally posted by BurtonCR
I removed my restrictor from the beginning. I forget what it does - prevent spikes? If so, then you dont need from what ive seen, no spiking what so ever, just nice smooth curves.

- chris
Same here I get no spiking. I even removed the restrictor from my boost gauge so I could see any spiking easier.

TMS
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Old 06-25-2004, 09:06 AM   #58
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don't forget there is a possibility that the boost control algorhythm in the sti is a bit different from the wrx's. we're also talking reflashed vs. stock, and the reflash may have altered the parameters to promote faster spool at the expense of stability.

i would DEFINITELY reset your ecu after swapping solenoids... i think it will promote faster ecu learning of boost control parameters. remember this direct control method has a much greater effect on the boost levels than does the bleeder-based control.

jm2c
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Old 06-25-2004, 09:28 AM   #59
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I did use the 10 ohm resistor. I reset the ECU before making my logging run. At my altitude, 36 absolute works out to 24 psi relative. With the amount of detonation I was getting, there was no way I was going to wait for the ECU to learn a smoother response.
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Old 06-25-2004, 09:29 AM   #60
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It is probably the reflash. I will try this out on a stock WRX as soon as I can.

TMS
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Old 06-26-2004, 05:14 PM   #61
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Update:

Even with the brass restrictor between the compressor housing and the solonoid inlet, I am still getting boost fluctuations; just less severe. Boost builds to about 18psi, then drops instantly to about 14psi, and repeats. Think of a sawtooth pattern and you'll understand.

I'm going to try moving the restrictor between the solonoid and the waste gate. If that doesn't work, I'll add more restriction. After that, I guess I'll have to go back to stock FBC
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Old 06-28-2004, 07:03 AM   #62
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FWIW, I installed the GM solenoid this weekend on my 02 WRX with UTEC. I ran all new vaccuum lines, the 10 ohm resistor, and installed the brass restrictor pill in its usual location. I am also running a UTEC ver. 4.2.

I used to run 415s in my boost map to make full boost of ~18psi, this is with a boost gain of 49. With the new solenoid, these settings yielded way more boost than I ever intend on running, i.e. in the range of 26 psi. I had to go to a setting of 60-70 in my boost map with a gain of 46 order to get the boost levels I want. I am now holding 19.0-19.5 psi very easily. My boost onset is also a few hundred RPMs sooner. I was seeing full boost before around 3500 rpm and now I am getting full boost around 3200 rpm.

So far, everything is working out better than I had hoped. Logging with the UTEC is not showing any boost spikes or anything else out of the ordinary.

p.s. I almost forgot to mention that www.newgmparts.com was awesome to deal with. They are the ones that I bought the parts from, great prices/service and fast shipping, not too mention I got a free t-shirt too!

Last edited by fastlane; 06-28-2004 at 07:32 AM.
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Old 06-28-2004, 07:55 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastlane
FWIW, I installed the GM solenoid this weekend on my 02 WRX with UTEC. I ran all new vaccuum lines, the 10 ohm resistor, and installed the brass restrictor pill in its usual location. I am also running a UTEC ver. 4.2.

I used to run 415s in my boost map to make full boost of ~18psi, this is with a boost gain of 49. With the new solenoid, these settings yielded way more boost than I ever intend on running, i.e. in the range of 26 psi. I had to go to a setting of 60-70 in my boost map with a gain of 46 order to get the boost levels I want. I am now holding 19.0-19.5 psi very easily. My boost onset is also a few hundred RPMs sooner. I was seeing full boost before around 3500 rpm and now I am getting full boost around 3200 rpm.

So far, everything is working out better than I had hoped. Logging with the UTEC is not showing any boost spikes or anything else out of the ordinary.

p.s. I almost forgot to mention that www.newgmparts.com was awesome to deal with. They are the ones that I bought the parts from, great prices/service and fast shipping, not too mention I got a free t-shirt too!
Take out the pill. The restrictor is not needed. When you take it out with out changing your new map the boost will drop then you should be able to run with the higher #'s in your map.

TMS
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Old 06-28-2004, 08:14 AM   #64
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Actually, I am quite happy with the #s in my maps right now. I did try originally without the restrictor and I was still seeing crazy boost, albeit, I didn't tune out as much boost before popping the restrictor inline and re-tuning.

I might just try removing the restrictor to see how much I would have to adjust the map again, just for the sake of knowing.
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Old 06-28-2004, 04:37 PM   #65
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Part of this mod is not needing to match the restrictor size to the turbo.

TMS
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Old 06-28-2004, 04:47 PM   #66
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Gotcha...I was more interested in the ability to set boost levels without the use of an auxillary boost control bleeder valve. However, I did remove the restrictor pill and I had the same positive results.
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Old 06-28-2004, 05:16 PM   #67
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Has anyone tried using this with the stock ECU?
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Old 06-28-2004, 05:19 PM   #68
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Good info guys!
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Old 06-28-2004, 05:32 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally posted by s_nold
Has anyone tried using this with the stock ECU?
I have not had a chance to try this on a stock WRX ECU but I am running it on my stock Sti ECU.

TMS
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Old 06-28-2004, 11:29 PM   #70
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I got the setup into my car today and played with it a little bit with the UTEC. At values of 440 I get about 21-22PSI. Laptop battery died so I couldn't keep playing.

I did however get a CEL. I have it turned off through the UTEC but it keeps comming on and staying on.
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Old 06-29-2004, 05:58 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kwyjibo
I got the setup into my car today and played with it a little bit with the UTEC. At values of 440 I get about 21-22PSI. Laptop battery died so I couldn't keep playing.

I did however get a CEL. I have it turned off through the UTEC but it keeps comming on and staying on.
Did you have the code pulled?


Are there any Utec users that are running this mod? Does this mod help with the varring boost pressure with temp changes?

TMS
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Old 06-29-2004, 07:42 AM   #72
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Utec here and it has helped me so far. I am still holding my target boost levels despite the temp/humidity changes.
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Old 06-29-2004, 11:43 AM   #73
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Just thought I would add my $.02.

I did the mod this weekend on my stage 4 WRX. I reset the ECU and things are looking good. I will probably need a formal retune to get things set up properly, but I am very pleased.

I am running a FP 18T. Initially I was dissapointed with this turbo. Now I am not. I am geting 1 bar by 3200 and full boost by 3500, by the way that is 21 psi. I am holding more and more to redline too. I did a couple of pulls last night with a friend and my guage indicated 1.2 at redline. There seems to be a hesitation in the build up of boost, I am contributing that to a learning ecu as it seems to be getting better. And again, I believe a formal dyno tune would make all the difference.

I should also mention that I put the restrictor back in line. It seemed to smooth things out a little. My interpretation was that the ECU/BC was reacting slowly and boost fluctuation was pretty bad. Now with the restrictor in place all seems better. Time will tell.

Thanks, TheMadScientist, for posting this. It had been the answer to my boost control problems thus far. It has saved me at least $400 in not having to purchase an AVCR.

--Kris
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Old 06-29-2004, 12:46 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kristopher
Just thought I would add my $.02.

I did the mod this weekend on my stage 4 WRX. I reset the ECU and things are looking good. I will probably need a formal retune to get things set up properly, but I am very pleased.

I am running a FP 18T. Initially I was dissapointed with this turbo. Now I am not. I am geting 1 bar by 3200 and full boost by 3500, by the way that is 21 psi. I am holding more and more to redline too. I did a couple of pulls last night with a friend and my guage indicated 1.2 at redline. There seems to be a hesitation in the build up of boost, I am contributing that to a learning ecu as it seems to be getting better. And again, I believe a formal dyno tune would make all the difference.

I should also mention that I put the restrictor back in line. It seemed to smooth things out a little. My interpretation was that the ECU/BC was reacting slowly and boost fluctuation was pretty bad. Now with the restrictor in place all seems better. Time will tell.

Thanks, TheMadScientist, for posting this. It had been the answer to my boost control problems thus far. It has saved me at least $400 in not having to purchase an AVCR.

--Kris

I have learned a lot from this board. I feel that thing like this and the P0420 fix should be shared with the rest of the board. I am very happy that other people are having as good results as I am.

TMS

Last edited by TheMadScientist; 06-30-2004 at 05:46 AM.
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Old 06-30-2004, 08:17 AM   #75
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Do NOT do this mod if you are using a reflash or Cobb AP

It will result in over boosting and boost spikes. Unless you have DeltaDash.

TMS

Last edited by TheMadScientist; 06-30-2004 at 03:00 PM.
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