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Old 01-11-2021, 02:15 PM   #1
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 511364
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: San Diego
2013 Wrx

Default 13 wrx hatch OEMassive C-Light Modification + 4 TL-R projector Retrofit

-Spyder Black Switchback LED DRL Bar Projector Headlights (Through CARid website, these were originally the OEMassive c-shaped headlights)
-Morimoto 4TL-R Projector Headlights – D2S Osram 66240 (4200K) bulbs (The Retrofit Source)
-Morimoto XBT RGB bluetooth controller (The Retrofit Source)
-Profile Pivot Demon Eyes (The Retrofit Source)
-08-14 WRX/STI OEMassive RGBW LED C light upgrade (Circuit Demon)
-Various hardware (sourced from Home Depot, Amazon, etc.) For my setup I purchased extra JST 4-pin extensions (~36 inches, 5-pack via Amazon). Also, terminal, butt, splice connectors are needed.

1)Bake headlight (~220 F for 7min), disassemble the entire headlight.

2)Isolate the chrome bezel, which is held in place to the black plastic housing via two alignment screws and 2 screws holding it via a plastic circular bracket (1 of those screws is tricky to unscrew. There was a crack around the hole when I removed it; when I reinstalled there were other screw hole options that were easier to access) Remove projector too.

3)Tape off high beam bowl. Be careful applying and taking off the tape cause it can rip the chrome painting off.

4)This is the do-as-you-go part. On top of where the projector was there is a roof extending from the bezel. In the picture I highlighted what I removed so I can mount the 4 TL-R projector on at least one of the top mounts (particularly the side where the original hole was. I used a dremel and a filer for all the cutting/shaping.

5)Next is the border in between the high beam reflector bowl and projector housing, and also the inside ring at the outermost bottom portion to make way for the high beam wiring on the projector. I used various attachments on my dremel and only made markings as I fitted the 4 TL-R projector. (Tip: cover area and also mouth/eyes to reduce mess and irritation)

6)Measure and mark new screw holes for the 4TL-R housing. The screw size I used was a long #8-32, along with same size lock nuts and spacers. I can’t go into too much detail because it’s more of trial-and-error when purchasing the hardware and seeing if it fits the way you mount it. Everyone’s methods are different; nonetheless go slow, drill one hole at a time, and keep remeasuring as you go.
In this picture I circled the new screw holes, and the purple circle highlights where I had pre-mounted the supplied screw to the demon eyes inverted because there was no way I was going to screw in the lock nut with the supplied aluminum reflector.

Here is the 4 TL-R projector and demon eyes mounted on (you can see a black-spray painted spacer/washer too):

7)C-light LEDs: Here are the stock C-light LEDs compared to the ones I got from Circuit Demon. For the upgraded LEDs you need to funnel them around the openings and I only used about half the screws that held the old LEDs because the RGBW wires covered some holes. TL; DR: adjust the new LEDs to your discretion. Also be careful not sliding the C-light plastic diffuser on the black bezel because the finish can be marred.

8)Side marker bulb housing modification: I cut the side marker bulb housing with a dremel and sealed a rubber grommet in the opening with clear RTV silicone. I housed the C-light LED module inside the headlight where the old LED module was housed using doubled-sided 3M VHB tape.

Another modification I did (not pictured sorry) was to accommodate the wire harness connected to the ballast – these aftermarket headlights do not have enough space to fully screw down the ballast without impinging the bulb ignition wiring. I marked the spot as best I could and filled it in with a small rounded bowl-type grommet (I purchase a rubber grommet set with various sizes on Amazon). I also added a new grommet for the hole leading out to the housing itself.

9)Connect the XBT bluetooth controller and mount – It was mounted via zip ties on the side well next to fuse box. I vampire-clipped the power connection of the bluetooth controller to the wire supplying constant power to the DRL relay by removing the section of the engine fuse box housing the DRL relay (1 clip) and getting to the silverish-white (ONE COLOR, NOT STRIPED) wire going up the left prong of the DRL relay.
Note: you can go for a switched source close by via the green/yellow wire going to the A/C relay, but the hazard/alarm light functions of the C-light will not work because the bluetooth connection needs to be powered constantly.
I used a fused tapped wire with a 10amp fuse leading up to the bluetooth controller, and grounded it using the screw directly above the fuse box.

10)Test the connections and lay out wiring – I housed the HID relay where the resistor for the DRLs were (I removed the DRL function btw) and funneled the LEFT ballast output, LEFT demon eye turn signal interrupt, RIGHT C-light RGBW connection, RIGHT demon eye RGB connection, and (+) wire for relay underneath the radiator. They were all housed within a 1 inch diameter split-sleeved braided cable and zip-tied on two holes located at the bottom ends of the radiator (pardon the rust):

Closing comments: overall this project was moderately difficult for a novice like me. I sourced the headlight first so over the span of a month I slowly modified the reflector bowl (in school still). It took me about 3 full days to wire and stuff. I thought the hardest part was going back and forth for hardware, wiring connections, and trying to make it look clean lol. I would suggest drawing a wiring diagram or have an idea in your head before wiring. If anyone has an idea on how to wire the bluetooth controller on a switched source while retaining hazard/alarm C-light function, let me know! Cheers!
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