JDM ej207 uncompatible/compatible parts

[S4wasapain]

My other thread was getting a bit off topic with this so I'm making this new one.

Wondering what parts from the v7,v8,v9 jdm 207's are interchangeable with US available parts.

So far I've learned that the following parts are are specific to the JDM engines:

ECU
Valve Covers
Valve cover gaskets
Cams
ACVS solenoids

Some things I'm wondering about:

Radiator
Alternator
Timing belt/water pump kits (same as usdm ej205 or ej257?) Also heard that JDM sti need timing belt changes at 60,000 MILES?
Oil pump (seems like JDM engines are all 12mm oil pumps due to high reving)
Coil Packs
Head gaskets (same as usdm ej205?)
Aftermarket pistons (same as udsm ej205?)
AC Components
Powersteering lines/components
Random general stuff that needs replacing time to time.

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[Vlad]

You can read most of this info in my EJ207 info thread.
If you want to post there, asking for compatibilities, you can do that too.
So:
Radiator you're free to do what you want, anything works, except if you have a Spec C COMPLETE CAR, then if that was to be an early model you'd have to find a way to separate the oil and coolant radiators, oil being for the transmission. So you'd buy a CXA oil radiator and find a way to locate it.

If you're only buying an engine and a transmission (like so many others, or an engine only, like even more people), you don't have to worry about the transmission oil radiator and can continue to use what you have, provided it's in good shape.

The alternator you can replace with a USDM, I think people used the 205 and used the 257 alternators. However, if the unit in place is in good shape, I would use it, it can be easily hooked up.
Read in my thread about connecting the third wire to it and potential advantages to that.

Timing belt, read the facts in my thread, (including a translation from the owner's manual for a JDM STI), that tells you what the interval is, so you don't have to guess.

Oil pump, read in my thread how that is replaced, as supplement info, no they are not 12 millimeter until the GRB body style (2008+). Read in the built engine forum what using a too big oil pump will do for you (or against you )

Coil packs, read in my thread.

Head gaskets are different, the sources are IAP and Japan parts, these days probably even more, and I don't see why a EUDM EJ207 headgasket would not fit and I can even check this idea.
You can probably pick one up from a place like ebay.co.uk, once this is sorted.

Aftermarket pistons, see the built forum and UK info from forums, they built JDM EJ207 for many years.

A/c compressor is different, see the EJ207 owners forum, for all possible combinations of solutions to replace them. Members have done all permutations possible and they all worked.
The stock JDM unit is quite good, I would keep it (have).

Power steering ... same answers as above.

Random general stuff, EJ207 Owner's thread, random replacements are found there.

One odd thing (unexplainable to me) is that the valve cover gasket was purchased from a US dealer by a board member.
This may mean nothing (like the water pump from a spec C GDB which is found again in a GR WRX, years later), so maybe a current US car is using the same item,

Or maybe... Subaru is wanting to quietly cash in into the EJ207 industry, which as much as highly unlikely (many Subaru parts guys spoke about the JDM parts list being "excluded") , I hope it is the case.

In sum, you have some reading to do, then you'll know the answers you're looking for.

[fastnoypi]

Originally Posted by Vlad

Head gaskets are different, the sources are IAP and Japan parts, these days probably even more, and I don't see why a EUDM EJ207 headgasket would not fit and I can even check this idea.
You can probably pick one up from a place like ebay.co.uk, once this is sorted.

Head gaskets are same part number as ej205 11044aa482. Confirmed when i replaced mine.

OP, its obvious you have some concerns before pulling the trigger on buying a 207. Take the time to read through the EJ207 owners thread, the repetitive concerns of maintenance will become clear. Skip the chatter. The common struggles of the swap are installing the avcs wiring and confirming that it works.

As i mentioned in your other thread, majority of the parts available for the 205/257 can be used as suitable replacement parts.
There are parts that you have to pay attention to that are specific to a 207 variant, such as oil pump size, which Vlad mentioned and coil pack color( black or grey) ..depending on year.

The opposedforces link to the Euro 207 parts is a good guideline for what works and crosses over from the USDM 205/257 parts

http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/en_g11/type_21/

[Vlad]

I'm sorry, I forget which 207 you have.

V7, this is true, revisions A and B get 11044AA482/3(substituted) and the description is EJ20# meaning EJ20anything.

However, revisions C-G get 11044AA651 and in the description is only states EJ207, so this would be V8-9.
I'll add this info the 207 info thread.

Edit: added this info and the V8 and 9 are different than anything US.

[fastnoypi]

Originally Posted by Vlad

I'm sorry, I forget which 207 you have.

V7, this is true, revisions A and B get 11044AA482/3(substituted) and the description is EJ20# meaning EJ20anything.

However, revisions C-G get 11044AA651 and in the description is only states EJ207, so this would be V8-9.
I'll add this info the 207 info thread.

Edit: added this info and the V8 and 9 are different than anything US.

Interesting that you point that 11044AA651 part number for revisions C-G..v8-v9. It cross references also to the Euro Legacy 2L motors.
FWIW, i spoke to my friend who works at SOA, the last 3 digits in the part number significance has to do with supplier identification but the part itself may be identical to the part number it supersedes or part offered in another region. In other words, take it with a grain of salt that they are different.
I would like to see the head gaskets that have come off of blown v8+ motors and compare to the known 205 HG design to confirm.

[S4wasapain]

I appreciate the response/help! I'm asking in general, but also because I'm looking at buying a wrx with a V8 Swap.

I noticed and read some of the ej207 thread.

However with 300+ pages its a bit hard to find specific info thought this may be easier for people doing future searches. But, im not trying to cause problems. Can delete this thread if so.

[Vlad]

In this case, the head part number changed at the same time with the head gasket change for the 207 and I think that the head construction was found to be different by some who compared them.

I think there was a big thread where someone was showing that USDM heads can be ported to be as good as JDM ones, and that person and thread ended up as a collection of photos of USDM and JDM heads and it was easy to see that casting marks changed with V8.

As far as the last digits after the letters:
The first segment of the part number and the letters are shown in the diagram and once you select them, then the table pops up, with the different groups of last digits, detailing the different variations for different applications.
There can be differences based on suppliers, this is seen but the purposes of the application table is application.

I think that the logic here(my guess) is with those substitutions. I always wondered, when a part number ends with say 2 and the table shows below 3 and notes substitution type 1, 2, etc, what that means.

In other words, I would interpret what your friend said, in case something substitutes.
Example:
11044AA482 substitutes into 11044AA483, this is noted in the table as a substitution type 1, so type 1 could very well mean that they switched manufacturers.
But 11044AA650 is not shown as a substitution for a previous item, so I would not be inclined to consider that a different manufacturer.


Now you finding this for a EU Legacy application, to me correlates with efficient design, re-use your bin, to save cost. Sometimes this can mean that .. say a headgasket that is slightly over designed, bought in bulk becomes cheaper and more efficiently used even is applications that don't require it necessarily.

[Vlad]

Originally Posted by S4wasapain

I appreciate the response/help! I'm asking in general, but also because I'm looking at buying a wrx with a V8 Swap.

I noticed and read some of the ej207 thread.

However with 300+ pages its a bit hard to find specific info thought this may be easier for people doing future searches. But, im not trying to cause problems. Can delete this thread if so.

Nobody is saying you're causing trouble and both me and fast are trying to help you.
My EJ207 info thread is quite compacted, so you can read the first few pages and acquire answers.
As far as the 207 Owners thread, filter that search with the thread search tools and you will reduce to couple pages.
Besides, like Fast said, the problems are only a few and seen over and again, with the AVCS/NPS/Wiring.

[samir please]

the ej207 thread is a great wealth of info, while completely searchable, it still can be tedious. i support a "JDM ej207 uncompatible/compatible parts" thread.

[Vlad]

If the OP or you wants to put together this thread into a reference thread, that they are working on, researching info for parts replacements from the 207 threads, say not only what has the same parts, but also what people used and it worked, I support this too.

Go ahead and do some of this work, I will support it with info and I mean it seriously, not sarcastic.

If the OP wants to edit, say the first post, make it a long post, start listing under his items of interest what they found so far, I will post supporting info.

If it comes across that someone is doing research, you will get help.

If it comes across that someone is just asking the same questions, then we point them to where the answers are, that's the difference.

And OP, here's a different idea:

Your situation is new, you're looking to buy an already swapped car.
this is a situation that will show up more and more in the future, one that we all want to support, because ultimately, many will sell their swapped cars.
The easier it is to buy a swapped car, the better they will sell.

So, if you want to put together something that details questions about how to buy a swapped car, how to know if it runs like it should and if a potential buyer should have things they should worry about, you can post something, I will help and I think many others will too.

How about "how to buy an EJ207 swapped car?".

[fastnoypi]

Originally Posted by Vlad

11044AA482 substitutes into 11044AA483, this is noted in the table as a substitution type 1, so type 1 could very well mean that they switched manufacturers.
But 11044AA650 is not shown as a substitution for a previous item, so I would not be inclined to consider that a different manufacturer.
.

From observation, the last digit increment appears to be some sort of substitution for a compatible part or minute redesign for part supercession. The two digits immediately after the 2 letter code, i would openly guess it identifies a regional purpose or 2 digit supplier code.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/11044aa650

The 6 or 65 in this case appears to correlate with EU sourcing. If you drill down the link it is shown they are re-using the parts bin across all those specified EU platforms including the NA motors where the HG is obviously over built.(or that the EU 207's HG's were under specified..depending on your interpretation).

Time will tell if they are essentially the same HG. Slowly more damaged V8 motors are showing up in the classifieds as victims to spun bearings, poor tuning and other issues due to previous ownership or storage conditions and sold as separate heads and shortblocks. As these heads and shortblocks are bought for re-builds, we will see what head gaskets the new owners will use. Yes the head design has slowly changed, port styles are easily identifiable but the head to shortblock sealing surface has mainly stayed the same.


We can continue this dialog in the Info or 207 owners thread as someone may do work on their v8+ motor and bring more to light regarding the headgaskets.

[S4wasapain]

So upon further questioning of the guy i am thinking of buying the v8 swapped wrx from. He says the 60k miles on the engine is estimate the shop gave him of what's on the engine and that neither him or the company's knows exactly how many miles on it. And he has put 15k miles on it. It still has the original timing belt sticker saying to change it at 100,000km. So at least when it was installed it was below that. No way of knowing it it is due soon or overdue.

Safe bet would be to due the belt ASAP, however the owner doesn't seem to care/ thinks it's fine...


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[fastnoypi]

the question you want to ask him is who did the swap? and was the timing belt replaced at the time? Anyone who considers dropping a ej207 from any importer usually replaces the timing belt and questionable wear items. Anyone can slap on stickers, the sticker means nothing...its only a reminder.
If he still can't get those answers confirmed, physically check it out, go for a test drive..buy it if all seems good and the price is fair to you. Get the timing belt changed for your own piece of mind.

Keep in perspective, a swap was someone's project, it can be done right, wrong or close enough that it will need some attention...hopefully not alot.

[Vlad]

Many people that do the swap begin by doing the timing belt.
In my case, I wanted to reduce the risk and had the dealer do the swap. Once the car ran and passed a compression and oil pressure test, I took it home and did timing belt.

It is a bit unusual that the current owner did not decide to do the belt, but has skills to do the swap.
Also the belt does not cost a fortune and you can do it without doing water pump and idlers.

I wonder whether there are some "business swaps" out there: people swapping for the sole purpose of selling and doing minimal work and parts.

The 60 k thing is a "standard claim". Everybody that sells the engines claims the same.

Doing 15k miles without worrying about the belt is unusual.
What type of fuel is available at the pump in the area and was the car tuned for the fuel?

Ask for compression and leak down test.
Ask if the AVCS is working.
Ask which ECU is running the engine, try to get a part number.

[S4wasapain]

It's tuned for US pump gas, has a JDM Ecuador tuned with avcs working and a usda wrx ecu for emissions/ inspection

He said he called the tuner and ECS the other day and they both told him it's 100,000 miles for the JDM engines timing belt. Which is annoying because we've seen the JDM manual you posted that clearly says 100,000km ie 62,000 miles

He is sticking with what the tuner/ shop is telling him. Swapping the timing belt when I get it doesn't worry me much. Not knowing if/when the timing belt was done and ignoring seeing what a JDM manual days about the t belt is what worries me

I'm trying to get him to do a compression/ leak down test... He feels there is no need since it "feels the same as when I got it dynoed after I had the swap done".., some people don't get it I guess


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[Vlad]

Good luck with your efforts, you are on the right track.

[Jarret916]

Alright I'll be honest I didn't really ready this and don't want to bring his post back up. But I have a major dilemma on my hands. I bought a 2003 wrx and motor went out at about 150k due to a bad turbo eating all the oil. So I swapped a JDM ej207 a ver 5 into my car and I switched cam and crank gears. And it starts and sputter then stops its throwing a Mac and throttle code and won't keep running. Now I did all this without the ecu could that be my problem?

[wrxtjl]

wondering what kind of power I can get out of a v7 without doing heavy engine work looking at doing turbo upgrade injectors and fuel pump
ive been hearing many different opinions about 450+ but wasn't sure any info appreciated

[mrsaturn7085]

I noticed this thread still comes up high on Google searches for EJ207 so I'll add a few points to clear things up:

Originally Posted by Vlad

Radiator you're free to do what you want, anything works, except if you have a Spec C COMPLETE CAR, then if that was to be an early model you'd have to find a way to separate the oil and coolant radiators, oil being for the transmission. So you'd buy a CXA oil radiator and find a way to locate it.

If you're only buying an engine and a transmission (like so many others, or an engine only, like even more people), you don't have to worry about the transmission oil radiator and can continue to use what you have, provided it's in good shape.

To simplify, there are two radiators: "AT" and "MT" models. The 6MT w/cooler used the "AT" radiator, however the lines from 6MT transmission to radiator (both hard, and rubber) were different from the cars with the automatic transmissions.

JDM 6MT cooler lines and "AT" radiator will drop into a USDM chassis with ZERO issues whatsoever.

Originally Posted by Vlad

Power steering ... same answers as above.

Power steering pump is the same, though the p/n is different. There may be some *minor* differences internally.

Power steering LINES are entirely different. The USDM P/S lines will not attach to the Spec C intake manifold properly.

Power steering coolers which were present on the JDM Spec C and STi models will drop right in to the USDM chassis, you simply need the cooler kit and the reservoir. EJ207 P/S lines and EJ257 P/S lines will both interface with the cooler properly.

Power steering pump bracket was different on the Spec C 16in wheel model. These cars did not come with A/C and the stamped-steel bracket is significantly lighter than the cast A/C-compatible piece. These parts also drop right into the USDM EJ257 car as long as you're willing to give up A/C.

A few notes to add:

The EJ207 intake manifold w/o TGVs: this will mount to the EJ257 but will require NUMEROUS parts, including, but not limited to injectors, fuel rails, fuel pressure regulator, fuel line modification (for '06+ cars), coolant hoses, breather/coolant pipe, breather hoses, header tank, p/s lines, and a ton of bolts and brackets. I'm finishing an install right now, and I've had to place about 4-5 orders for JDM parts that I keep finding that I need.

The EJ207 oil cooler: this will fit the EJ257 exhaust manifold if you remove the RH heat shielding, but is not recommended. A twin-scroll EJ207 manifold will allow proper fit, as will the Tomei EL single-scroll manifold.

[SunBurntGinger]

Hi,

Found that the rubber fuel lines under the intake manifold are leaking. I’m just doing a simple fix and no upgrades. The shop I took it to will be replacing the intake manifold gasket as well. I believe that the gasket is the same as the ej205. Could I please get some info on what parts are compatible in case any other hoses, sensors, or parts need to be replaced along the process. Since I’m almost expecting something else to brake during the manifold removal and install process (fingers crossed it goes smoothly). The shop I took it to doesn’t deal with many of these motors so I’m just trying to get some info together on my own in case something happens. If I had the time and place (other than my apartment parking lot) I would do this myself.

Thank you

[D-Rodman]

If it’s a ver 7 ej207 then 02-03 usdm wrx parts generally tend to fit.
There are differences but there are vendors that you can buy legitimate jdm oem vacuum hoses and gaskets from. I’d suggest Stephen Clark at IA Performance, he knows his jdm Subarus and is extremely patient.


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[SunBurntGinger]

Thank you for the info!

[GSXR1k]

Thanks for the info!! Oldie but goodie. I'm looking for a JDM tuning and parts resource in the Portland Oregon area if anyone can refer one.

[devo321001]

I know most transmissions are compatible, but will this be fine? I know the wiring might need some changes.