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07-24-2006, 02:14 AM | #1 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 18914
Join Date: May 2002
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Raleigh, NC
Vehicle:2006 WRX Black with some stuff |
Installed AccessPort four days ago, car dead now
What the hell happened!?! Right before my boss arrived to go fishing, I dissconnected the battery in my car for a few minutes. I Started the car up (no problems at this point) and drove about a quarter mile and parked the car. After fishing for about 4 hours, I packed up and started to drive home. I noticed a little noise (thought it was a loose heatshield or something), and also noticed that the car hesitated and was low on power. As I drove on, the noise got louder and louder, and became apparent that it was not a loose heatshield. There was a horrible knocking from the engine. I've never heard anything like this before...I know there has to be some serious damage internally.
I am so drained from freaking out about what just occourred with my car, that I am falling asleep now, but I was hoping to get some feed back from some of you. What do you all think happened to my car? By the way, I Have a Vishnu Up pipe, Vishnu Crank Pulley, Vishnu intercooler hoses, Bosal Downpipe, and third cat eliminator, along with AccessPort. I just got the AP, and flashed to stage II four days ago. Oh yeah, and my car is a 2005 Saabaru. Please help with ideas! Am I going to need a rebuild? Maybe a new engine? What's the worst case scenario? What is the worst case scenario (cost) for a rebuild? Are there any Subaru Gurus around the Raleigh, NC area that I could convince to take a look at my car? Feeling sick to my stomach... Carlito The next morning: I just wanted to add that I am not blaming the AP, or Cobb for what happened to my car. My car was however performing fine until I installed the AP, and then continued to perform fine until last night when I cleared the ECU's memory by disconnecting the battery. Last edited by Carlito2002WGN; 07-24-2006 at 08:04 AM. |
07-24-2006, 09:25 AM | #2 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 95195
Join Date: Sep 2005
Chapter/Region:
W. Canada
Location: Under the hood, in the seat!
Vehicle:1974 Rat Rod Bug back and white |
AP Maps seem to run lean, did you get a check engine light? how hard were you driving your car? under or over 5000rpm? because it could have been that you were getting knock with the already lean map and then possibly a bad batch of gas.... did you just fill up your gas at a new station or with a different grade then what your map was designed? is this the 91 or 93 map? I can answer you further once I know these things. but basically you could have had a knock issue witch would cause a knock issue, it may or may not have messed up your engine depending on how long and how bad the condition was, reflash to stock and claim warrenty work?!?! worst case AFAIK bent valves is caused buy knock.
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07-24-2006, 09:56 AM | #3 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 18914
Join Date: May 2002
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Raleigh, NC
Vehicle:2006 WRX Black with some stuff |
Hi this is Carlos' wife...he wanted me to say thank you for the reply. I read your reply to him and he says he had jus put gas and within 10 miles after putting gas this problem happened. It was grade 93 at a bp station which he has used many times. The map he has is Stage 2, 93 octane.
Oh, he also said he probably did go over 5000rpm after he put the gas. It is a pretty safe assumption. Thanks! Liliana |
07-24-2006, 10:22 AM | #4 |
Scooby Specialist
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Join Date: Sep 2005
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Location: Under the hood, in the seat!
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Ok with a knock issue it wont be apparent until over a higher RPM or wont do much damage because it wont be a big issue until a Higher RPM, it could have been a bad batch of gas, it wouldnt be the first time. I dont know what are good gas stations in the US though. I would suggest a reflash back to stock base map, and return it for warrenty work at your local dealer they cant say it was caused by your exhuast but they could blame the AP so unmarry your AP and limp your car back to the dealership at under 3000rpm to be safe and not cause any more damage either that or have it towed there. depends on how bad the knock is. have them check it out and fix it..... best/cheapest solution. I bet you had a detonation problem with bad gas and then when you punched it it caused knock damaging your engine.... just a thought
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07-24-2006, 10:40 AM | #5 |
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MWSOC
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Vehicle:0000 Knows nothing, about nothing. |
warranty ftw
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07-27-2006, 01:47 PM | #6 | |
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SCIC
Location: Hiding from Bros in Temecula
Vehicle:2003 WRX white |
Quote:
exactly, put back on all ur stock parts then tow it in and kick the ground and say idunno... |
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07-24-2006, 10:53 AM | #7 | |
RIP 10/12/83 to 02/10/08
Scooby Specialist Member#: 83254
Join Date: Mar 2005
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Roy, Washington
Vehicle:98 2.5 RS 04 WRX |
Quote:
The problem didn't show up until you flashed stage 2 which upped the boost on an already damaged engine. |
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07-24-2006, 12:03 PM | #8 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 18914
Join Date: May 2002
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Raleigh, NC
Vehicle:2006 WRX Black with some stuff |
Thanks for the info but actually all mods were done at once.
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07-24-2006, 01:06 PM | #9 | |
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07-24-2006, 01:30 PM | #10 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 50699
Join Date: Dec 2003
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: austin
Vehicle:2004 WRX Platinum Silver |
I am gonna vote crank pulley on this one
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07-24-2006, 03:02 PM | #11 |
Scooby Specialist
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Vehicle:06 WRX Black on Black |
^ because it is underdriven? I doubt electrical issues from a pulley would cause that severe knock. Maybe not though, who knows.
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07-24-2006, 02:59 PM | #12 |
Member Status: Member
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Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Orison, Crusader. Stanton
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No check engine lights?
You can try un-installing the AP, see if that changes anything. It sounds like there has been alot changed in your car recently, that means alot to check out. |
07-24-2006, 03:06 PM | #13 |
Scooby Specialist
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: austin
Vehicle:2004 WRX Platinum Silver |
crank pully can come loose and cause a knocking noise. Trust me i have experienced it first hand (on a small block 350 though).
Check that first as its easy to. But, if the bolt snapped, gooooood luck |
07-24-2006, 10:27 PM | #14 |
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usually the AP maps are really rich not lean. I know too many people that have had problems with pulleys....that is something I will never put on my car....I don't care if it adds 20whp. Unless subaru makes it, it won't be going on. Those things usually have to be so perfectly balanced. I know a guy that had one....not a subaru, but still.....well it through off the oil pump and after about two minutes of driving without a working oil pump the engine was about as dead as they get.
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07-24-2006, 10:44 PM | #15 |
Scooby Specialist
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Vehicle:06 WRX Black on Black |
Wow I haven't heard that before thanks for the tip. I thought it was pretty much a bullet-proof mod if you didn't opt for the underdriven variety...
Sorry for your problems man, it always sucks to have problems with your car especially when you have to explain why your $2,000 "upgrade" messed up your car to your wife. |
07-25-2006, 12:50 AM | #16 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 18914
Join Date: May 2002
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Raleigh, NC
Vehicle:2006 WRX Black with some stuff |
Underdrive Pulley
I'm not saying that it is impossible that the pulley had something to with my problems, but:
I installed the pulley at about 2000 miles (car has 56,000 now), and now all the sudden when I add the AP to the mix, I have a problem. Also, I had this exact same pulley on my 2002 WRX for about 40,000 miles with no problems. I just don't get it. The Pulley and the intercooler hoses are the only mods that I did to my car before installing the AP. Once I got the AP, I installed all of the exhaust parts and then the AP and flashed to Stg2 93. The thing that keeps bugging me is that all of my problems occured immediatly after reseting the ECU via battery disconect. This should not have caused any problems, right? Carlito |
07-25-2006, 12:55 AM | #17 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 18914
Join Date: May 2002
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Raleigh, NC
Vehicle:2006 WRX Black with some stuff |
Timing belt
Guys, what would be the symptoms of a bad timing belt? Not one that broke, but rather one that slipped a little or something. Like I said, I am at 55k miles...isn't it about time for me to replace it?
Carlito |
07-25-2006, 12:46 PM | #18 | |
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07-25-2006, 09:04 AM | #19 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 50699
Join Date: Dec 2003
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: austin
Vehicle:2004 WRX Platinum Silver |
If you timing belt jumped you car would run like crap. Why don't you try to turn it on to see where the noise is coming from (oil pan, front, heads, tranny, exhaust). It could be that your crank broke. could be your exhaust hitting something. Could be a thrown rod.
But, don't debate waht it could/could not be until you go check stuff. Its hard enough to diagnose a noise over the interweb, go get us soem more info so we can help you. |
07-25-2006, 02:31 PM | #20 |
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MWSOC
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Vehicle:2002 Stage 2 WRX World Rally Blue |
Could be bad gas, not sure how loud this noise is but you never know.
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07-25-2006, 02:55 PM | #21 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 50699
Join Date: Dec 2003
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: austin
Vehicle:2004 WRX Platinum Silver |
So just to verify you checked the bolt on the pulley or did you just check it with your hands?
did you try to wiggle the exhaust? I know mine makes a kncking sound by the rear end. Also, turn it on and push in the clutch. See if the noise goes away. If it does you know its AFTER the tranny. If its automatic, you can unbolt the TC from the flywheel to see if its still the motor. Next step is a compression check! <eek!> |
07-26-2006, 09:45 AM | #22 |
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Definitely get tuned. I recently was tuned, but mine was running way rich with the OTS map. Mid 10's at higher RPM's.
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07-26-2006, 01:13 PM | #23 |
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E. Canada
Location: GTA, Ontario Canada.
Vehicle:04 WRX, RIP GC8 Black |
Since this is kinda the theme here I'll throw in a Q in this thread.
Im planning to get an AP when I buy my WRX (few weeks now) and I want to go to Stage II. I understand that this is a DP and Catback system, plus the AP correct ? I was wondering, should I install the exhaust system THEN instal the AP ? Or vice versa ? Is it safe to instal the exhaust before the AP ? What if I wanted to add an up-pipe into the mix ? would the OTS Stage II map be no good at this point ? Any info is appreciated. To sum it up im just asking which parts can I add safely while using the OTS Stage II map ? Also Ive read the Stage II map is designed for a CATLESS DP and catback exhaust. If I use Cobb's DP WITH their high flow cat, am I going to run into issues ? BTW my WRX will be an '04 if this makes a difference. Last edited by Assassin4457; 07-26-2006 at 01:18 PM. |
07-26-2006, 01:20 PM | #24 | |
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07-26-2006, 01:55 PM | #25 |
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Location: GTA, Ontario Canada.
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I was going to instal the exhaust then flash with the AP immediately. But what do u mean take it easy after I install it ? Is there a certain amount of time i should drive conservatively after doing so ?
How about up-pipes ? If I install that will my stage II OTS map be doing me no good ? And also I'll re-ask, they say the Stage II is designed for catless DP. If I get the high flow catted DP from Cobb will this still be ok with the stage II OTS map ? |
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