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Old 01-22-2021, 02:51 PM   #1
basyager
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Default trying to decide on oil and filter...

yoyo Subie homiezz. my first oil change is coming up and im trying to decide whether to just get OEM black filter or order online something like WIX, or this oversized MAHLE filter. There's also this $11CAD Mobil 1 filter in the "high performance" category.

and can't decide with oil... MOTUL seems to be the "hype". is it worth the price?

Am I over-thinking this?

on an unrelated you guys think I should bother the dealership to do the 4th gear TSB? can't say im excited about the idea of having a stranger tear into it...
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Old 01-22-2021, 02:59 PM   #2
tegxsi
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not another oil thread...lol You are going to hear lots of different opinions...

IMO cheap Mobil1/Castrol/Pennzoil 5W-30 and WIX filter you mentioned is fine. If you want to step up in oil then Motul, Liquimoly makes good stuff.
Maintenance is key....4-6k oil change intervals.
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Old 01-22-2021, 03:33 PM   #3
basyager
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Originally Posted by tegxsi View Post
not another oil thread...lol You are going to hear lots of different opinions...

IMO cheap Mobil1/Castrol/Pennzoil 5W-30 and WIX filter you mentioned is fine. If you want to step up in oil then Motul, Liquimoly makes good stuff.
Maintenance is key....4-6k oil change intervals.
So I heard its better to change more frequently than to go longer on the expensive stuff. Just trynna hear some opinions and then mods can delete this useless thread. Btw how is there only 2 pages in this forum? I guess the mods are keeping it tidy
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Old 01-22-2021, 03:57 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basyager View Post
Btw how is there only 2 pages in this forum? I guess the mods are keeping it tidy
There is much more than 2 pages. You need to update the display options on the bottom of the screen to show more.
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Old 01-22-2021, 04:19 PM   #5
bluesubie
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I have 190k miles on my FXT using the OEM Honeywell oil filter about 80-85% of the time and the rest of the time I used whatever comes free with an oil change bundle.

Oil brand doesn't matter, specs matter most. Oils generally perform very similarly when they meet the same specs (GF6 Resource Conserving oils usually become a 20 weight, ACEA C3 oils stay in grade much better, etc.).

People throw out their favorite brands but many brands have many choices, even within the same grade, but they meet very different specs. There are seven Mobil 1 5W-30's, there are seven Motul 5W-30's.

The most robust 5W-30's are the ones that have a High Temp High Shear of 3.5 or higher (Mobil 1 5W-30 ESP, Motul 8100 X-clean EFE 5W-30, Shell Rotella T6 Multi Vehicle 5W-30).
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Old 01-22-2021, 04:48 PM   #6
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We use Motul X-clean 5/30 (used to be EFE now it's Plus) here exclusively for the past 4 years or so and works great. Good analysis from the ones we've done. OEM Filter as well.
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Old 01-22-2021, 05:22 PM   #7
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much appreciated guys.. oil change is coming up no time to nerd up on oil knowledge for now, high temp high shear. is what I need got it. I am still able to find the EFE. its a little cheaper actually
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Old 01-22-2021, 06:12 PM   #8
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Last edited by bluesubie; 01-22-2021 at 06:18 PM.
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Old 01-23-2021, 01:44 PM   #9
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If you want to use an oversized filter, you can use a Baldwin 7167 or the larger Baldwin B161-S. They have 18% and 42% more filtration area than stock. They have the same 20psi bypass valve pressure rating as OEM. I've used both. The B161-S is tall enough to contact the hood insulation, which melted it a bit.

I like oversized filters especially for winter since they don't go into bypass as easily when the oil is cold. They're also better for longer OCI's.
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Old 01-23-2021, 06:44 PM   #10
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While I really appreciate that huge oil thread and all the discussions in it, do yourself a favour and don't read any of it.

Choose whatever oil (5w30) and filter is convenient/cheap to get for you. I think change interval is the most important thing with the amount of fuel dilution in these engines.

I spent years reading and trying different oils recommended by people on here and........just wasted my time and money on fancier oils. I just get whatever is on sale now.
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Old 01-24-2021, 10:17 AM   #11
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Couldnt resist commenting.. personally i think the choice of oil is most important. Once that is done oil intervals are secondary only because every one of us changes the oil too often 3-5000k and most oils provide protection past 7500k as documented with multiple oil analyses enthusiasts posted for us to see.

Furthermore, why not get 0W30 or 0W40, basically 0W oil for cold temps. You guys are aware that 0W includes or encompasses 5W spec oil temps? So why not go for more protection on cold startup..

There are exceptional 20-25$/5qt oils at Walmart that are for DIT engines specifically.
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Old 01-24-2021, 04:28 PM   #12
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Just us the OEM filters and change your oil regularly. Oil brand/type is highly debated, but no one has ever has a single problem due to the OEM filter not doing its job. Although, there are many more worse options out there.

Last edited by KillerBMotorsport; 01-25-2021 at 11:30 AM.
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Old 01-25-2021, 12:45 AM   #13
basyager
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but FA uses black oem filter?
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Old 01-25-2021, 11:30 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basyager View Post
but FA uses black oem filter?

Whoops, edited
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Old 01-25-2021, 11:45 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rexy18 View Post
Furthermore, why not get 0W30 or 0W40, basically 0W oil for cold temps. You guys are aware that 0W includes or encompasses 5W spec oil temps? So why not go for more protection on cold startup..

There are exceptional 20-25$/5qt oils at Walmart that are for DIT engines specifically.
Because most 0W-30 and 0W-40 oils available at Wal-Mart are high SAPS oils which you do not want to run in a DIT. The exception is Mobil 1 0W-30 AFE.
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Old 01-25-2021, 01:39 PM   #16
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Most oils at walmart arent for DIT applications, like 90%+. I said specific oils are. Not sure about one you mentioned because i use a different Mobil 1 oil and a Quaker oil. Former is 0w40 api sn 24$ and latter 5w30 api sn plus 21$, latter actually being slightly better oil as far as my research shows.
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Old 01-25-2021, 04:04 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rexy18 View Post
Most oils at walmart arent for DIT applications, like 90%+. I said specific oils are. Not sure about one you mentioned because i use a different Mobil 1 oil and a Quaker oil. Former is 0w40 api sn 24$ and latter 5w30 api sn plus 21$, latter actually being slightly better oil as far as my research shows.

I wouldn't use an SN oil anymore. The standard was changed quite a lot for SN Plus, to address LSPI issues, and LSPI is a pretty common killer of these engines. SP is even newer than SN Plus and apparently has some further improvements for LSPI prevention.
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Old 01-25-2021, 04:19 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rexy18 View Post
Furthermore, why not get 0W30 or 0W40, basically 0W oil for cold temps. You guys are aware that 0W includes or encompasses 5W spec oil temps? So why not go for more protection on cold startup..
Think about it man, do you think making a 0w-40 oil is just a matter of the guy at the refinery pushing a different button or something????
Viscosity modifiers give that affect, so it takes more modification to get a bigger range.
That's why some people use straight 30 in summer. Because a straight weight oil is always better than a dual viscosity as long as cold temps aren't an issue.
0w-40 simply isn't necessary in normal US temps.
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Old 01-25-2021, 04:19 PM   #19
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Also, what is the 4th gear TSB??????
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Old 01-25-2021, 04:28 PM   #20
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Think about it man, do you think making a 0w-40 oil is just a matter of the guy at the refinery pushing a different button or something????
Viscosity modifiers give that affect, so it takes more modification to get a bigger range.
That's why some people use straight 30 in summer. Because a straight weight oil is always better than a dual viscosity as long as cold temps aren't an issue.
0w-40 simply isn't necessary in normal US temps.
Because 5w30 dont use modifiers to be rated 5w30 vs straight 30 and 5w30 which all use is necessary? You gots to stay congruent and objective in your logic and then you gots a point. Then how can you say it isnt necessary in real world, cuz minnesota or montana dont experience - temps? You cant be serious. And yes, i think its a s simple as a push of a button to add the modifiers necessary or pour modified oil.

Having said that how much better is 30 oil vs 5w30 or 0w30? Are we talking 0.5%, 3% or 30% and only within warm-warmed up range.

The point i was trying to hammer home is that 5w30 oil range is within 0w40 oil operating ranges which are wider or on both ends.

Last edited by Rexy18; 01-25-2021 at 04:41 PM.
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Old 01-25-2021, 04:48 PM   #21
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You gots to stay congruent and objective in your logic and then you gots a point. Then how can you say it isnt necessary in real world, cuz minnesota or montana dont experience - temps?
^this is one of the funniest retorts I've ever read

wait, are you White Boy from "I love New York"
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Old 01-25-2021, 05:22 PM   #22
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So whats the verdict on fuel dillution? People saying its bad on these others are saying if you drive highway it evaporates. Seen a UOA of some guys fa20 and fuel dillution was <2%. Some guy said its a good idea to get 40w to compensate for any dillution. What u guys think, considering how tiny the oil passages are on new engines..
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Old 01-25-2021, 05:57 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rexy18 View Post
Most oils at walmart arent for DIT applications, like 90%+. I said specific oils are. Not sure about one you mentioned because i use a different Mobil 1 oil and a Quaker oil. Former is 0w40 api sn 24$ and latter 5w30 api sn plus 21$, latter actually being slightly better oil as far as my research shows.
Quote:
Originally Posted by X49 View Post
I wouldn't use an SN oil anymore. The standard was changed quite a lot for SN Plus, to address LSPI issues, and LSPI is a pretty common killer of these engines. SP is even newer than SN Plus and apparently has some further improvements for LSPI prevention.
The problem with the 0W-40's at Wal-Mart is that they are high SAPS oils which contribute to intake valve deposits and also have high calcium which contribute to LSPI, regardless of the API rating. An API SP oil like Mobil 1 0W-40 still has high ZDDP and calcium.

Many of the standard 5W-30's at Wal-Mart are GF5/GF6 dexos 1 Gen 2 so they do have additive packages in mind for IVD and LSPI. Of course, they also have the operational viscosity of a 20 grade.
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Old 01-25-2021, 06:04 PM   #24
bluesubie
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Originally Posted by basyager View Post
So whats the verdict on fuel dillution? People saying its bad on these others are saying if you drive highway it evaporates. Seen a UOA of some guys fa20 and fuel dillution was <2%. Some guy said its a good idea to get 40w to compensate for any dillution. What u guys think, considering how tiny the oil passages are on new engines..
Fuel doesn't evaporate as easily in a DIT like it does in a port injection engine. If the uoa's you were looking at were Blackstone, they only estimate the fuel percentage based on the flashpoint reading but do not actually test for fuel. Look for uoa's from Oil Analyzer's Inc that mention fuel dilution readings from "GC".

Most xW-40's can cause intake valve deposits so you need one that meets ACEA C3 ratings as it will have reduced ZDDP and calcium. This is why IAG Performance does not recommend Motul X-cess 5W-40 in a DIT.

https://www.iagperformance.com/conte...ipping-Doc.pdf

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2882122
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Old 01-25-2021, 08:26 PM   #25
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Mobil 1 fs 0w40. Porsche oem spec oil, good enough for me.
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