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07-09-2004, 10:39 AM | #1 |
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fuel filter replacement
02 WRX newbie question......I'm trying to do all the 30k service myself....where the hell is the fuel filter? I saw a thread about an RS....is there a fuse I have to take out?
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07-09-2004, 10:42 AM | #2 |
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there is a writeup on scoobymods.com
the fuel filter is in the rear-driver's side of the engine bay. It has two protruding nozzles that attach to the fuel lines. |
07-09-2004, 10:44 AM | #3 |
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07-09-2004, 10:49 AM | #4 |
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It's the round can with two hoses attached, by the driver side strut tower. There is a clamp that holds the filter to the bracket, once released it can be disconnected and removed.
Before disconnecting the hoses, you need to depressurize the fuel system. By the passenger side kick panel, under the glovebox, you will see a green relay with a green plug. That is the fuel pump relay. Disconnect it, and then crank the engine so it starts and dies. Repeat this a few times until it just cranks. Then, remove the gas cap. These steps should relieve most of the pressure in the system. You can now disconnect the hoses from the old filter and attach them to the new one. Keep some rags handy as there will still be some fuel coming out when you take the hoses off, be prepared for it. Have the new filter right there so you can do the swap as quickly as possible and minimize any fuel leakage. It's safest to do this when the engine is cold, so any spillage won't be going onto a hot surface to possibly ignite. After the new filter is in place and the clamps tightened, close the gas cap and reconnect the fuel pump relay. Before cranking the engine, turn the key to "run" for a few seconds to allow the pump to run and prime the system, then back to off. Do this a few times to build some pressure before actually cranking to start. It may still take a bit longer than usual to fire up, once it does check the filter for any leaks. In the event you get a CEL after the swap don't worry, it's just from extended cranking with the pump relay unplugged. It will go out after you drive the car for a while. |
07-09-2004, 12:41 PM | #5 |
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wow thanks mulder......that explanation was perfect
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07-09-2004, 01:26 PM | #6 |
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It's the small black or silver "canister" that's sitting on top of the indentation of the windshield wiper fluid reservoir.
Do it while the car is cold, i.e. first thing in the morning or something. If you have 2 forceps or binder clamps you can put those on the hoses so you don't get fuel spraying out either. In additon to making sure the in/out hoses are attached to the proper tube, make sure not to drop any of the items that hold the filter in place deep into the engine bay... [one of if not the easiest maintenance items really] |
07-12-2004, 04:13 PM | #7 |
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How many people read the thread about the guy that watched his car catch fire and burn after taking it for a test drive immediately after the fuel filter swap?
BE VERY CAREFUL not to start the car for a while if you spill ANY fuel. |
07-12-2004, 05:07 PM | #8 |
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A good safety measure is to spread some rags under and around the filter, and to plug the hoses as soon as they are disconnected. Good plugs can be cut out of wood (chopsticks work well), or one can use 8mm screws. Opening the tank won't relieve the pressure because there's a check valve in the line after the pump.
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08-31-2004, 02:35 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
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12-18-2009, 11:49 AM | #10 |
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Rise from the dead, thread!
I used Mulder's instructions which were helpful, but I may add a few things: 1) I found that the green fuel pump relay plug was hard to get to so I removed the 10mm gold colored screw that holds the bracket to which the green and brown relays are mounted. That allowed me to swing the bracket out a bit which gave better access to the green relay plug. 2) The fuel lines were really, really difficult to get off the inlet/outlet tubes of the old fuel filter. I eventually got them off but it took a lot of force and twisting and I thought for sure something would break. The lines were almost equally difficult to put onto the new fuel filter. I ended up coating the inlet/outlet barbs with a thin coating of WD40 which helped a bit, but it was still difficult. The inlet side wouldn't even go on all the way up to the stop collar on the inlet barb, but it got on far enough that I clamped it and am sure it won't leak. Anyone have tips for how to remove and install these rubber hoses more easily? |
12-18-2009, 05:28 PM | #11 |
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wd-40 in the beginning, twist them, use pliers if necessary(use padding so you don't rip up the lines), a small screwdriver can help to break it free from the filters' death grip.
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12-18-2009, 08:35 PM | #12 |
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WD40 all the way!
Definately squirt some WD near the hose. Just a very little amount helps a huge amount. I struggled for about 15 mins then used a flathead, made a bit of gap between filter and hose and squirted in some WD and it worked like a charm
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