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Old 10-09-2018, 03:00 PM   #2026
Homemade WRX
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This is why I'm working on my own cheap two-stage drysump set up. It'll cover the good oil quality side of things but I wouldn't expect power gains on our small crankcase without something like a 5-stage system. I don't want the weight, cost, or complexity of that for my personal car...at least not yet.

If I recall, you were pretty low power density and low RPM still. So a two stage might actually net you a bit of power.
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Old 10-10-2018, 12:29 PM   #2027
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My hopping has actually gone away after the shock change. I really don't want it to come back. Did you do a front diff on yours?
What exactly shock wise did you do to get rid of it?

I found that with an aggressive rear diff (cusco) and a stock front the hopping got allot worse. It wasn't until I did a more passive rear and aggressive front (OSG both ends) that it mitigated the hop. I still get a certain amount of it but have been hesitant to use the shocks to tune it out since I have them working well in all other conditions.
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Old 10-10-2018, 01:05 PM   #2028
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What exactly shock wise did you do to get rid of it?

I found that with an aggressive rear diff (cusco) and a stock front the hopping got allot worse. It wasn't until I did a more passive rear and aggressive front (OSG both ends) that it mitigated the hop. I still get a certain amount of it but have been hesitant to use the shocks to tune it out since I have them working well in all other conditions.
Removed JRZs, replaced with KWs. Its absolutely gone. The difference was night and day enough that I am led to think that most of subarus hopping issues are induced by bad or incorrect shocks, and the driveline reacts to it. People smarter than me have suggested the same. Either shock bind, or tire contact to the chassis, and the driveline reacts.

Which shocks do you have? Some brands/designs tend to bind up in the rear enough to induce hops no matter what you do.
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Old 10-10-2018, 01:07 PM   #2029
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On the accumulator ideas, I see that most people run them off of a sandwhich plate. This seems to me like it would cause too long of a delay for the discharge to potentially save the bearings. Has anyone thought of or set one up to discharge directly into the main galleys?
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Old 10-10-2018, 01:58 PM   #2030
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Removed JRZs, replaced with KWs. Its absolutely gone. The difference was night and day enough that I am led to think that most of subarus hopping issues are induced by bad or incorrect shocks, and the driveline reacts to it. People smarter than me have suggested the same. Either shock bind, or tire contact to the chassis, and the driveline reacts.

Which shocks do you have? Some brands/designs tend to bind up in the rear enough to induce hops no matter what you do.
Custom Penske Triples based off the 8760's from Anze. I think ultimately the bucking/hoping is a result of the drivetrain. Same struts but switched diffs and it just about cured everything. I'm just trying to find that last little bit.
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Old 10-10-2018, 02:37 PM   #2031
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thorium06 View Post
Removed JRZs, replaced with KWs. Its absolutely gone. The difference was night and day enough that I am led to think that most of subarus hopping issues are induced by bad or incorrect shocks, and the driveline reacts to it. People smarter than me have suggested the same. Either shock bind, or tire contact to the chassis, and the driveline reacts.

Which shocks do you have? Some brands/designs tend to bind up in the rear enough to induce hops no matter what you do.
I had a similar experience to you with KW, but changed a lot of things at once. Previously had the stock vlsd r160 and stance supersport+ (8k/6k) and it would buck horribly on throttle.

Switched to a very aggressive Kaaz and RCE T2s (KW V3s) on RCE's standard springrates and no more hop. I also switched to all sphericals in the Lat links and trailing arms at that time.

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Old 10-10-2018, 02:58 PM   #2032
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Originally Posted by T-37 View Post
I had a similar experience to you with KW, but changed a lot of things at once. Previously had the stock vlsd r160 and stance supersport+ (8k/6k) and it would buck horribly on throttle.

Switched to a very aggressive Kaaz and RCE T2s (KW V3s) on RCE's standard springrates and no more hop. I also switched to all sphericals in the Lat links and trailing arms at that time.
I chased around every other option including bushing bind before I changed shocks. The exception was diffs as I had to run OEM for STU. But I did swap one of my spare new OEM rear diffs in and it didn't have a change. Basically nothing did until I changed the shocks.
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Old 10-10-2018, 03:48 PM   #2033
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I chased around every other option including bushing bind before I changed shocks. The exception was diffs as I had to run OEM for STU. But I did swap one of my spare new OEM rear diffs in and it didn't have a change. Basically nothing did until I changed the shocks.
Do you know if there is a difference in droop travel up front between the two brands of shocks by any chance?
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Old 10-10-2018, 04:04 PM   #2034
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The KWs do have more droop travel. The JRZs I felt had a decent amount too. The difference in the front was not as large as the rear where the KW has significantly more droop travel. I should have pictures somewhere.
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Old 10-14-2018, 02:51 PM   #2035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thorium06 View Post
The KWs do have more droop travel. The JRZs I felt had a decent amount too. The difference in the front was not as large as the rear where the KW has significantly more droop travel. I should have pictures somewhere.
Which JRZs did you have?
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Old 10-15-2018, 12:42 PM   #2036
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RS Pro
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