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Old 02-19-2010, 12:18 AM   #1
WReXd
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Default cam pulley removal nightmare!

First off, I should mention that this is my first time doing any engine work, so I only have a general idea of how everything works and connects.

I had oil dripping out of my timing belt cover, and decided to replace the cam seals. I attached a wrench to the flywheel end of the crank to keep it from spinning (mistake?), and tried to break the passenger's side exhaust cam pulley loose with only the timing belt keeping the pulley from spinning. Here's the problem; the bolt spun along with the camshaft while the pulley stayed still. I did not know this was possible. Perhaps I broke something?

I noticed there is a hex-shaped section on the camshaft near the front of the engine, but it looks to be 28 or 29mm, and I'm not sure if there's enough space to use a regular open-ended wrench. Plus, I don't have a wrench that big. What do you guys normally use to hold the camshaft? I know cobb makes a tool, but it holds on to the pulley and not the camshaft itself...
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Old 02-19-2010, 01:00 AM   #2
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It's likely nothing broke, but it is possible to get valve interference if you let one spin/snap back. The FSM has all the info on this.

I use a timing belt and two sets of vice grips. Wrap the belt around 1 pulley, tightly, and secure by pinching the belt with the grips, repeat the process around the crank pulley and it should be secure.
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Old 02-19-2010, 01:27 AM   #3
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i did the same thing as merp.

had a belt around camshaft to cracnkshaft held with two vice grips, then used a 1 1/8 to hold camshaft, and used a 10mm allen key with a 5 ft pipe to break it loose. scary stuff when i did it.
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Old 02-19-2010, 01:41 AM   #4
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Do yourself a favor and pick up a socket like the one below. Combine it with some vice grips, an extra belt and a long breaker bar like the others mentioned and you'll have them off in no time.

http://ultimatetoolco.com/Koken10mm.aspx

Use a craftsman socket and I'll guarantee that you will be going back to pick up a replacement after you snap it like a toothpick.
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Old 02-19-2010, 02:15 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ec2k1gt View Post
Do yourself a favor and pick up a socket like the one below. Combine it with some vice grips, an extra belt and a long breaker bar like the others mentioned and you'll have them off in no time.

http://ultimatetoolco.com/Koken10mm.aspx

Use a craftsman socket and I'll guarantee that you will be going back to pick up a replacement after you snap it like a toothpick.
Great find. I'll be ordering one of these in the morning!
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Old 02-19-2010, 04:45 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenlee View Post
Great find. I'll be ordering one of these in the morning!
I don't think your car uses a 10mm hex bolt for the cam gears.
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Old 02-19-2010, 04:48 AM   #7
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It is a 29mm area on the cam, you can use that to hold the cam still while removing the cam gear bolt. I HIGHLY recommend a 2nd person to help you with this, and those allen heads like to strip out. Replacement bolts are around 5 bucks from the dealer, you just drill the old one out. I also use that solid 10mm from ultimate tool co.
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Old 02-19-2010, 05:05 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WReXd View Post
First off, I should mention that this is my first time doing any engine work, so I only have a general idea of how everything works and connects.

I had oil dripping out of my timing belt cover, and decided to replace the cam seals. I attached a wrench to the flywheel end of the crank to keep it from spinning (mistake?), and tried to break the passenger's side exhaust cam pulley loose with only the timing belt keeping the pulley from spinning. Here's the problem; the bolt spun along with the camshaft while the pulley stayed still. I did not know this was possible. Perhaps I broke something?

I noticed there is a hex-shaped section on the camshaft near the front of the engine, but it looks to be 28 or 29mm, and I'm not sure if there's enough space to use a regular open-ended wrench. Plus, I don't have a wrench that big. What do you guys normally use to hold the camshaft? I know cobb makes a tool, but it holds on to the pulley and not the camshaft itself...
im confused?? how does the cam spin when the pulley doesnt....usually is vis-versa, something goes wrong and the belt slips while you turn the pulley, and it skips, so then you need to re time it *take the belt off completely.

all these people that are telling you to get a special tool, dont. heres what you do. i can say this by doing it and perfecting the method.

1. DO NOT take the belt off, this is a must. assuming the belt is coming off, its going to be replaced, there is lots of tension in this method.

2. get your friend or friends to help, i find that 3 people works best here. i know seems like a lot, but how many horror stories of people heard..

3. 22mm socket for the crank (i think thats what it is) with a nice breaker bar for leverage.

4. set of vice grips works well.

5. get a nice long breaker bar with a proper fitting socket on the end for the pulleys and use snap force, not just leverage. squeeze together the the areas i have marked in red with one at a time of course (1 guys job). have one other guy hold the crank. and the other break the bolts. make sure everyone works together and people are holding pressure in the correct directions.

to install, do the same, id use the old belt after everything is on, then swap in the new belt to make sure it doesnt get all abused.. and no, the hex molded in the plastic is useless, dont even bother....its not even close to deep enough to grab at.

- just my .02 best of luck..
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Old 02-19-2010, 06:04 AM   #9
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The special tool we are suggesting is a solid 10mm allen socket. The craftsman or cheaper allen sockets are a tool steel 10mm allen pressed into a chrome housing, these are very easy to break.
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Old 02-19-2010, 11:26 AM   #10
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true, i tried the craftsman 10 mm hex and it broke 2 times. i then bought the 10mm hex key and used the pipe on that with my dad holding the camshaft.
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Old 02-20-2010, 02:35 PM   #11
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Thanks for the advice. In the meantime I was using a stanley socket, but my friend has one made by snap-on so I was just planning on borrowing that.

I think I already know the answer to this, but I'll ask anyway. The timing belt on the engine is fairly new (~13k miles) and is aftermarket (Power Enterprise). Must I get a new one?
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Old 02-20-2010, 04:15 PM   #12
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i would. cheap insurance. after all the tugging and stretching, i would. my engine died after 100 miles with a brand new belt. i just bought a new one...but im sure some one will tell you its ok to keep it.
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Old 02-20-2010, 04:22 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WReXd View Post
Thanks for the advice. In the meantime I was using a stanley socket, but my friend has one made by snap-on so I was just planning on borrowing that.

I think I already know the answer to this, but I'll ask anyway. The timing belt on the engine is fairly new (~13k miles) and is aftermarket (Power Enterprise). Must I get a new one?
i'm not going to say its okay to keep it, but I will say that the power enterprises belt is really good quality, and if you are going to get another belt I would buy one of these
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