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Old 06-22-2009, 12:53 AM   #1276
rabbitnutz
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anyone else think the handlebars need to be rotated a little upward? this is my first "road bike" so i'm not exactly sure how far i'm supposed to be leaving forward.
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Old 06-22-2009, 12:56 AM   #1277
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Yeah, that's a bit extreme. The bottom of the drops should be level.
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Old 06-22-2009, 12:59 AM   #1278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richde View Post
Yeah, that's a bit extreme. The bottom of the drops should be level.
k, good to know. thx.

also, what's a better way to go faster more easily.. bigger front chain rong, or smaller rear cog set?
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Old 06-22-2009, 01:05 AM   #1279
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pedal faster
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Old 06-22-2009, 01:08 AM   #1280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saltYmirv View Post
pedal faster


I've heard that theoretically a bigger chainring should be more efficient
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Old 06-22-2009, 01:12 AM   #1281
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Originally Posted by saltYmirv View Post
pedal faster
in a lower gear.

Spinning is more efficient than hammering. Mere mortals should aim around 80-90 rpm, pros spin faster.
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Old 06-22-2009, 01:27 AM   #1282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richde View Post
That's almost a department store bike. Go Shimano 105 or go home.
Yea I want 105's

I looked on the San Diego craigslist and everything seems high end.. or else I dont know what to search for or people dont know what to put in their ads... Everything is either 2000 or from 1980 and steel
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Old 06-22-2009, 02:16 AM   #1283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommy2hotty View Post
Yea I want 105's

I looked on the San Diego craigslist and everything seems high end.. or else I dont know what to search for or people dont know what to put in their ads... Everything is either 2000 or from 1980 and steel
What's wrong with 1980 and steel.
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Old 06-22-2009, 08:56 AM   #1284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by industrial View Post
What's wrong with 1980 and steel.
Or vintage steel? I'd been searching craigslist for a multi speed bike for casual riding and found a local guy just a few miles away selling three vintage bikes. My brother and I ended up buying them on Saturday. While they are in rough shape, they have potential.
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Old 06-22-2009, 01:36 PM   #1285
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Those of you running 1xX setups, were you able to actually buy a rear shifter without its mate?
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Old 06-22-2009, 01:36 PM   #1286
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Those of you running 1xX setups, were you able to actually buy a rear shifter without its mate?
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Old 06-22-2009, 04:29 PM   #1287
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Those of you running 1xX setups, were you able to actually buy a rear shifter without its mate?
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Old 06-22-2009, 04:50 PM   #1288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabbitnutz View Post
k, good to know. thx.

also, what's a better way to go faster more easily.. bigger front chain rong, or smaller rear cog set?
What are you running right now?
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Old 06-22-2009, 07:29 PM   #1289
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Here is mine....unfortunately I have to sell it:

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Old 06-22-2009, 07:48 PM   #1290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabbitnutz View Post
k, good to know. thx.

also, what's a better way to go faster more easily.. bigger front chain rong, or smaller rear cog set?
Are you new to riding a geared bicycle? Ride around and see how fast you can go in the various gears.
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Old 06-22-2009, 08:06 PM   #1291
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got my garmin edge 305 today off amazon. did a quick lap around the shop. kinda cool. need to read up a bit more on how to convert the files to google maps.
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Old 06-22-2009, 09:08 PM   #1292
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Layman View Post
Those of you running 1xX setups, were you able to actually buy a rear shifter without its mate?
nope
they're not particularly expensive anyways, unless you get into like X.9 level stuff
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Old 06-22-2009, 09:13 PM   #1293
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on a similar note, if I want a 1x9 700c bike, is it easier to convert a single or a triple? I got a single from Performance Bike (house brand) but it's going back. Salsa sells a Casseroll single for $800. The Triple version is $1700 (eek). Same frame, so I was thinking of buying the single, a new rear wheel with stack, derailleur and shifter and of course the chain.
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Old 06-22-2009, 09:59 PM   #1294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PGT View Post
on a similar note, if I want a 1x9 700c bike, is it easier to convert a single or a triple? I got a single from Performance Bike (house brand) but it's going back. Salsa sells a Casseroll single for $800. The Triple version is $1700 (eek). Same frame, so I was thinking of buying the single, a new rear wheel with stack, derailleur and shifter and of course the chain.
Build from the single or the frame. I would personally build from the frame but I enjoy building bikes up with handpicked components. You can build up from the frame for dirt cheap if you build up from lightly used ultegra 9 components and indexed downtube shifters from ebay.

Last edited by industrial; 06-22-2009 at 10:44 PM. Reason: grammar
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Old 06-22-2009, 10:40 PM   #1295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Layman View Post
Those of you running 1xX setups, were you able to actually buy a rear shifter without its mate?
Ebay, my friend. You can find x.9 grip shift for only the rear pretty easy on google shopping too.
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Old 06-22-2009, 11:22 PM   #1296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lamb155716 View Post
nope
they're not particularly expensive anyways, unless you get into like X.9 level stuff
True, but I love my X0 on my Heckler and was hoping to snag some for the Chameleon, too...

Quote:
Originally Posted by quentinberg007 View Post
Ebay, my friend. You can find x.9 grip shift for only the rear pretty easy on google shopping too.
Good call. Don't know why it slipped my mind...
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Old 06-23-2009, 09:46 PM   #1297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by industrial View Post
Build from the single or the frame. I would personally build from the frame but I enjoy building bikes up with handpicked components. You can build up from the frame for dirt cheap if you build up from lightly used ultegra 9 components and indexed downtube shifters from ebay.
the diff between frame/fork and full single spd version is $300. still make sense to build up from the frame?

any thoughts on internally geared hubs? I've seen very cheap stuff with coaster brakes for $100 (wheel/hub/shifter) and pricey stuff like Shimano's Alfine hub. I like the idea of the internal gearing as the chain is simpler to deal with.
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Old 06-24-2009, 12:19 AM   #1298
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is a "haro bmx bike" worth $40?

http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/bik/1234966485.html

<-- knows nothing about bikes, just wants a cool one of some kind to doodle around on and doesn't want to pay jack for it
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Old 06-24-2009, 12:30 AM   #1299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by industrial View Post
indexed downtube shifters from ebay.
Why would you ever do such a thing?

I started out with indexed thumb shifters on MTBs and I always thought triggers were an incremental improvement, but integrated brake/shift levers on road bikes are crucial to getting maximum benefit from a close ratio rear cassette.
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Old 06-24-2009, 12:36 AM   #1300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PGT View Post
the diff between frame/fork and full single spd version is $300. still make sense to build up from the frame?

any thoughts on internally geared hubs? I've seen very cheap stuff with coaster brakes for $100 (wheel/hub/shifter) and pricey stuff like Shimano's Alfine hub. I like the idea of the internal gearing as the chain is simpler to deal with.
Go with the single speed version if you are going with an internal gear hub. Otherwise, it's a toss up really. With a single speed to geared conversion, you're going to need a crank, chain, rear wheel, cassette, rear derailleur and shifter. To build from a frame, add headset, stem, handlebars, bar wrap, brakes, brake levers, front wheel and tires. For the $300 difference, you can get pretty decent stuff instead of the extremely entry level stuff the single speed comes with.

I personally don't like IGH. It felt like it was literally sapping my energy. Like having the chain tension too tight on a singlespeed.
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