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Old 09-23-2013, 10:24 AM   #251
itwrexme
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Originally Posted by xluben View Post
I had a little help from my brother and a friend and pulled the motor out on Friday. All went pretty smoothly/easily. It was pretty late so we called it quits after the motor was out. Still need to pull the tranny. Waiting on a few small parts to be able to put the new stuff in anyways. Sorry for the terrible cell phone pictures.
What's the exchange engine/gearbox combo?
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Old 09-23-2013, 10:25 AM   #252
xluben
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2.5L and 6MT
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Old 09-23-2013, 10:30 AM   #253
itwrexme
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2.5L and 6MT
Ok sounds great!
Did you go the dccd box or not?
Is it a standard 2.5L and what's involved with Ecu and other things changing in a 2.5L into a bug?
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Old 09-23-2013, 10:32 AM   #254
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2.5L and 6MT
Are you not going to change the tail shaft and diff or taking the easy cheaper way for now?
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Old 09-23-2013, 10:33 AM   #255
xluben
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Originally Posted by itwrexme View Post
Ok sounds great!
Did you go the dccd box or not?
Is it a standard 2.5L and what's involved with Ecu and other things changing in a 2.5L into a bug?
I purchased the MapDCCD controller and will be installing that as well. The motor is a built 2.5L longblock (not a hybrid with WRX heads). I'm swapping over the intake manifold and I will have to use a Cosworth cam sensor bracket. It will obviously have to be tuned.

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Are you not going to change the tail shaft and diff or taking the easy cheaper way for now?
I am using the STI driveshaft and r160 for now.
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Old 09-23-2013, 10:36 AM   #256
itwrexme
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I purchased the MapDCCD controller and will be installing that as well. The motor is a built 2.5L longblock (not a hybrid with WRX heads). I'm swapping over the intake manifold and I will have to use a Cosworth cam sensor bracket. It will obviously have to be tuned.
Yeah I knew it would need a tune,so it's a dccd box from a newer model?
As I'm about to install an 02sti Box that is out of an australian car as I live there and is not dccd!
Cheers for your replies so far. :-)
I'm going the whole way as I have the brembos as well front and rear and am getting the box and everything else at a price that no 1 would pass up....
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Old 09-23-2013, 10:45 AM   #257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itwrexme View Post
Yeah I knew it would need a tune,so it's a dccd box from a newer model?
As I'm about to install an 02sti Box that is out of an australian car as I live there and is not dccd!
Cheers for your replies so far. :-)
I'm going the whole way as I have the brembos as well front and rear and am getting the box and everything else at a price that no 1 would pass up....
No. It is an aftermarket controller.

I have no intention of swapping to Brembo's and adding unnecessary weight.
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:04 AM   #258
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No. It is an aftermarket controller.

I have no intention of swapping to Brembo's and adding unnecessary weight.
So it's a dccd controller that works on a non dccd 6 speed gearbox?
Can you plz post up the gearbox number of the 6 speed your using?
And the brembos are neither not needed weight seeing as your using a 2.5L built block nor heavier then the standard wrx bugeye calipers as I felt the differences between both and feel the wrx calipers are heavier but smaller then the brembos?

Last edited by itwrexme; 09-23-2013 at 11:11 AM.
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:21 AM   #259
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Originally Posted by itwrexme View Post
So it's a dccd controller that works on a non dccd 6 speed gearbox?
Can you plz post up the gearbox number of the 6 speed your using?
And the brembos are neither not needed weight seeing as your using a 2.5L built block nor heavier then the standard wrx bugeye calipers as I felt the differences between both and feel the wrx calipers are heavier but smaller then the brembos?
It sounds like you're just randomly asking questions and are probably getting in over your head. I would suggest stopping and doing some research on your own before going forward.
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Old 09-23-2013, 12:27 PM   #260
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^This made me lol so hard at my desk. Awesome work been, looking forward to your well thought out plans and efforts towards this build, as well as the valuable information you provide to the community. Been a fan since the beginning.
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Old 09-23-2013, 12:30 PM   #261
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Aw, I thought you were going to push the stock 2.0 a little more. PM if this means your vf39 is for sale.
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Old 09-23-2013, 02:08 PM   #262
xluben
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Originally Posted by JordenP View Post
^This made me lol so hard at my desk. Awesome work been, looking forward to your well thought out plans and efforts towards this build, as well as the valuable information you provide to the community. Been a fan since the beginning.
Thanks. It really just seemed like it was going to turn into an endless string of questions. I am open to helping out, but basic questions should be answered via research.

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Originally Posted by blk05wrx View Post
Aw, I thought you were going to push the stock 2.0 a little more. PM if this means your vf39 is for sale.
Nope, that wasn't the plan. 185k on the shortblock and tranny probably wouldn't have lasted long at higher power anyways. The VF39 is going back on for now. Still deciding on the rest of the build. Just want to get the motor and tranny in to start.
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Old 09-23-2013, 02:14 PM   #263
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Originally Posted by enjoilife1991 View Post
Man That 2.0 motor is really holding you back.
There is no replacement for displacement. The 2.0 is a fun, high strung motor, but the difference from when I went from the 2.0 to 2.5 (bugeye to GR) was night and day. I'm excited to see what the result is Xluben
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Old 09-23-2013, 02:27 PM   #264
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There is no replacement for displacement. The 2.0 is a fun, high strung motor, but the difference from when I went from the 2.0 to 2.5 (bugeye to GR) was night and day. I'm excited to see what the result is Xluben
Yeah, the extra displacement will definitely help. I'm hoping to get that extra displacement, and the nice 6 speed, but also keep the overall weight of the car down below what most GR's would ever be.
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Old 09-25-2013, 09:00 AM   #265
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I added some new (giant) CFL's into the existing light sockets in my garage. Got them based on the advice from a member on another board. They're really big and really bright!

Quote:
Originally Posted by flstffxe
3, 105watt(420watt equivalent) 4100K CFLs. 6,900 lumens each, 20,700 total lumens.

The 3 105w CFLs are on the typical "garage light switch" and took the place of 3 300w(2 150watt bulbs) halogen flood lights that put out 4800 lumens per fixture, before that they were a standard 100watt bulbs in each. I thought the 300w halogens were nice, but after the 105w CFLs that actually draw less power, yup the halogens didn't hold a candle to them. These share the same circuit as the garage door openers. These get used for most garage projects and actually would be just fine by many peoples standards for adequate garage shop lighting. They are in porcelain bases(150w rated) with pull chains so you can shut each one off if you wanted to, or you don't want one coming on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben
Wow, that looks great! I just ordered two of those CFL's you linked. They should be a nice improvement over whatever the bulbs are that are in there now (probably 100W, at the most). I'm still not sure what I'll end up with for all the lighting if/when I redo it, but your setup looks great.
Quote:
Originally Posted by flstffxe
I actually spent a lot of time looking when I bought these for 6 things.
1. 4100K color temp vs lumens. I happen to like it for a shop environment and it was one of the few matching color temps for the 4' bulbs in the troffers and small CFLs for the garage door openers
2. Medium base threads, 120v. I didn't want to have to switch to mogul based light sockets. And like a idiot, the first ones I picked up in store were mogul based.
3. internal ballast. Seems once you get to the higher wattage CFLs you start encountering ones that require a separate ballast.
4. Cost, many of the higher wattage CFLs got stupid expensive really fast. I wasn't about to spend $60-100 a bulb
5. cold weather starting. My garage is insulated and has r19 doors so it doesn't get too cold by any means, ~45 degrees on average in winter with no heat. but they do start up just fine when the doors were left open and the temps were in single digits, warm up time is longer, but they never failed to start. It is heated, but only when doing long projects.
6. from a bulb/company that had some decent reviews on reliability for their CFLs. Many seem to be honeymoon bulbs that start life out great and die quickly.

The Eiko 81184 seemed to be a nice compromise on all points. Reliability and price being the compromises. After about a year none have failed, yet. They probably see 10-20 hours a week on average with several 30 minute or less run times.

Be interesting to see what your thoughts are after installing them.
I got these bulbs yesterday! They are HUGE! I expected big, but they're really big!



The lights they replaced were actually 15W CFL's. Not sure the color temp, but much more yellow thank these 4100K lights.

The light output is very strong, and they turn on instantly (faster than the little ones I had).

Here are some comparison photos of the old lighting vs. the new. These are all just auto camera-phone (GS4) settings, no editing.







Hard to get an accurate feel of the lighting just from pictures, but it's certainly a noticeable change in the right direction. Should be enough to hold me over until I can get some more fixtures in.
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Old 09-25-2013, 10:21 AM   #266
bicycle_wreck
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Wow! Thanks for sharing that bit of info.
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Old 09-25-2013, 10:23 AM   #267
enjoilife1991
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
Yeah, the extra displacement will definitely help. I'm hoping to get that extra displacement, and the nice 6 speed, but also keep the overall weight of the car down below what most GR's would ever be.
With all this talk about displacement, I'm thinking you should do a stroker kit on the ej25. Why not?!
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Old 09-25-2013, 10:25 AM   #268
xluben
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Originally Posted by bicycle_wreck View Post
Wow! Thanks for sharing that bit of info.
It's like the Easy button for garage lighting.

I need to do more fixtures eventually, but this was too easy not to do for the interim.

Quote:
Originally Posted by enjoilife1991 View Post
With all this talk about displacement, I'm thinking you should do a stroker kit on the ej25. Why not?!
Not this motor, but maybe someday down the line.
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Old 09-25-2013, 12:59 PM   #269
juanmedina
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Nice! Let me know how you like the MapDCCD. It should be cheaper than the DCCDpro since you don't need the switches, right?

I am still running open diff and the r160 is doing fine
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Old 09-25-2013, 02:28 PM   #270
xluben
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Nice! Let me know how you like the MapDCCD. It should be cheaper than the DCCDpro since you don't need the switches, right?

I am still running open diff and the r160 is doing fine
My brother has the MapDCCD installed on his car. It's great. Yes it is cheaper because the switches are built in. It also has a built in display, which the DCCDPro doesn't even offer unless you DIY or have an STI cluster. I like it a lot more than the DCCDPro from what I've seen of it.

You must not drive it very hard NF has seen many broken axles trying to run ~600WHP setups like that. My car did it without issue for a few months before I went to the r180 setup, so it can last a while, but it will probably crap out eventually. A lot of stress into one axle is usually the issue. I hope the r160 can last a while in this car!
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Old 09-25-2013, 11:05 PM   #271
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Unfortunately no more work on the car yet, but I did organize the garage a little more. I tossed a bunch more junk, and consolidated everything that was in cardboard boxes into the Home Depot totes. Then I stacked the totes extra high and ended up with a lot more space. I also cleaned up my workbench a little.



I cannot wait to do lighting/electrical, insulation/walls, and shelves. Shelves will help free up a TON of space, but the other stuff needs to get done first for sure.
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Old 09-26-2013, 11:08 AM   #272
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Looks a lot better. Adding drywall or painted plywood will also brighten it up substantially. I just painted my garage with white block primer. It made a huge difference in reflecting light.

Just a tip since you have your walls open right now. Think about where you might want to hang those shelves, or even cabinets, and put a couple of 2x6's perpendicular, you know, in between the wall studs at about the height where you want to anchor that stuff. Makes everything much more stout and you don't have to go searching for studs when you're hanging stuff over drywall.
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Old 09-26-2013, 11:21 AM   #273
xluben
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Originally Posted by bicycle_wreck View Post
Looks a lot better. Adding drywall or painted plywood will also brighten it up substantially. I just painted my garage with white block primer. It made a huge difference in reflecting light.

Just a tip since you have your walls open right now. Think about where you might want to hang those shelves, or even cabinets, and put a couple of 2x6's perpendicular, you know, in between the wall studs at about the height where you want to anchor that stuff. Makes everything much more stout and you don't have to go searching for studs when you're hanging stuff over drywall.
I totally agree. The old garage had white walls and ceilings and it was much better for lighting. I could just point my shop light upwards and it would light up the garage decently well. With all bare wood it does nothing. The new garage will definitely be all white once done.

The plan is to use OSB for the walls to give myself a little more freedom when mounting things later on. But for the shelves I am going to try and stick to studs when at all possible. I was thinking that it might make sense to just mark where all of them are for ease of use later.
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Old 09-26-2013, 11:40 AM   #274
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Sounds great. I look forward to more updates and thanks for sharing as always.
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Old 09-26-2013, 12:18 PM   #275
amp2oo1
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Originally Posted by xluben View Post
The plan is to use OSB for the walls to give myself a little more freedom when mounting things later on. But for the shelves I am going to try and stick to studs when at all possible. I was thinking that it might make sense to just mark where all of them are for ease of use later.
Definitely stick to studs. I recently redid my garage with OSB, and while it durable for stuff hitting it, it doesn't hold any weight what so ever. I didn't bother to do any blocking in the walls and just stuck to my floorstanding shelves or the studs.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...9775&showall=1
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